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Old 09-04-2003, 05:08 AM
Bill Brown
 
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Default Working with Pipe

The area of a pipe is 3.1416 x radius squared.

A 2" diameter pipe is 1" radius so 3.141.6 x 1 x 1 = 3.1416 square inches

A 4" diameter pipe is 2" radius so 3.1416 x 2 x 2 = 12.57 square inches.

So it would really take 4 pieces of 2 inch pipe to equal the area of a 4
inch pipe.

A 3" diameter pipe is 1.5" radius so 3.1416 x 1.5 x 1.5 = 7.07 square
inches which is 2 and a quarter times bigger than a 2".

And friction is less and clogging is less. And when you get tired of
fishies, it's a better fit for Guinea pigs, mice, rats, gophers and moles.

-bill

"Cleveland Ponder" wrote in message
om...
It would take 3 2" to equal 1 4" not taking into account friction
losses. The two inch pipes are much more susceptible to blockage also.
Bite the bullet and do it right the first time. You won't regret it.

"BenignVanilla" m wrote

in message ...
I was originally planning on using 4 inch pipe for Shareholders Pond,

but
now that I am 4 feet under ground and digging in concrete like clay, I

am
revisiting that thought. I am seriously considering going with 2 inch

pipe
or maybe two 2 inch pipes for my bottom drain. I realize 2 inch pipe +

2
inch pipe does not equal 4 inch pipe. I am thinking working with 2

inch pipe
instead of 4 could make life easier.

Any thoughts?


  #17   Report Post  
Old 09-04-2003, 05:20 AM
bern muller
 
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Default Working with Pipe


Benign Vanilla wrote in
message ...
"bern muller" wrote in message
...
snip
Why wouldn't a 4" cap over one or the other end of the pipe work? Just

have
the pipe end stick out an inch or two.

snip

A pipe cap would be a binary valve. I am looking for an analog valve.


I like your way of expressing it. :-) How about several caps, each with a
slightly larger hole in it. Still digital, but more bits... enough bits
and you approach analog. :-)



  #18   Report Post  
Old 09-04-2003, 06:08 AM
Just Me \Koi\
 
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Default Working with Pipe

What a braniac! We've got some honest to goodness educated folks around
here.

You know this newsgroup is sophisticated, and populated by the best of the
society, while on the other hand my other newsgroup (Classic Car) is
populated by Troglodytes and Neanderthals.

My dear wife was loving enough to point out that does this mean that I, the
Koi loving Gear Head that frequent both groups, is an intellectual
Troglodyte?

--
_______________________________________
"The difference between 'involvement' and 'commitment' is
like an eggs-and-ham breakfast:
The chicken was 'involved' - the pig was 'committed'."

http://community.webshots.com/user/godwino

"Bill Brown" wrote in message
...
The area of a pipe is 3.1416 x radius squared.

A 2" diameter pipe is 1" radius so 3.141.6 x 1 x 1 = 3.1416 square inches

A 4" diameter pipe is 2" radius so 3.1416 x 2 x 2 = 12.57 square inches.

So it would really take 4 pieces of 2 inch pipe to equal the area of a 4
inch pipe.

A 3" diameter pipe is 1.5" radius so 3.1416 x 1.5 x 1.5 = 7.07 square
inches which is 2 and a quarter times bigger than a 2".

And friction is less and clogging is less. And when you get tired of
fishies, it's a better fit for Guinea pigs, mice, rats, gophers and moles.

-bill

"Cleveland Ponder" wrote in message
om...
It would take 3 2" to equal 1 4" not taking into account friction
losses. The two inch pipes are much more susceptible to blockage also.
Bite the bullet and do it right the first time. You won't regret it.

"BenignVanilla" m wrote

in message ...
I was originally planning on using 4 inch pipe for Shareholders Pond,

but
now that I am 4 feet under ground and digging in concrete like clay, I

am
revisiting that thought. I am seriously considering going with 2 inch

pipe
or maybe two 2 inch pipes for my bottom drain. I realize 2 inch pipe +

2
inch pipe does not equal 4 inch pipe. I am thinking working with 2

inch pipe
instead of 4 could make life easier.

Any thoughts?




  #19   Report Post  
Old 09-04-2003, 01:56 PM
BenignVanilla
 
Posts: n/a
Default Working with Pipe

"bern muller" wrote in message
...
snip
A pipe cap would be a binary valve. I am looking for an analog valve.


I like your way of expressing it. :-) How about several caps, each with

a
slightly larger hole in it. Still digital, but more bits... enough bits
and you approach analog. :-)


The more I think about your idea, the more I like it. I really won't ever
throttle the bottom drain back. I'll only need to close it now and then to
drain the VF for cleaning. The binary valve will work.

BV.


  #20   Report Post  
Old 15-04-2003, 04:08 AM
~ jan
 
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Default Working with Pipe

The more I think about your idea, the more I like it. I really won't ever
throttle the bottom drain back. I'll only need to close it now and then to
drain the VF for cleaning. The binary valve will work.


BV, have you contacted www.aquaticeco.com for their 1.5" thick catalog? All
the aquatic plumbing supplies and then some, you'll ever need. )

If you are using a bulk head from 4" pipe to VF all you would need is a
thread bulk head with the right sized thread plug. (Or am I missing
something?) ~ jan

See my ponds and filter design:
http://users.owt.com/jjspond/

~Keep 'em Wet!~
Tri-Cities WA Zone 7a
To e-mail see website


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  #21   Report Post  
Old 15-04-2003, 02:32 PM
BenignVanilla
 
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Default Working with Pipe

"~ jan" wrote in message
...
The more I think about your idea, the more I like it. I really won't ever
throttle the bottom drain back. I'll only need to close it now and then

to
drain the VF for cleaning. The binary valve will work.


BV, have you contacted www.aquaticeco.com for their 1.5" thick catalog?

All
the aquatic plumbing supplies and then some, you'll ever need. )

If you are using a bulk head from 4" pipe to VF all you would need is a
thread bulk head with the right sized thread plug. (Or am I missing
something?) ~ jan


Jan, originally I had planned to have the skimmer and the bottom drain empty
into the VF, so I wanted valves there so I could 1) Drain the VF, and 2)
throttle the drain and the skimmer separately. I have not decided that the
skimmer will have to wait until next year, and when I do, it will simply
feed a small water fall. I have also come to the realization that I will
never want to throttle the drain back, but I would want to shut it off so I
could drain the VF. So like you said, a simple screw plug will work
perfectly.

BV.


  #22   Report Post  
Old 16-04-2003, 07:44 PM
Fool Speck
 
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Default Working with Pipe

"BenignVanilla" m wrote in message ...

I am not to overly concerned about this really. The main intent for the
valve was ... a way to throttle water flow, but I guess I should
be able to do that with my pump, when I choose it.


The literature I have read on pumps warn about restricting the intake.
It says rather to restrict the output of the pump. And since your
output pipes will be smaller than your intake, you will be able to buy
smaller valves.

Steve Lowther
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