I was originally planning on using 4 inch pipe for Shareholders Pond, but
now that I am 4 feet under ground and digging in concrete like clay, I am
revisiting that thought. I am seriously considering going with 2 inch pipe
or maybe two 2 inch pipes for my bottom drain. I realize 2 inch pipe + 2
inch pipe does not equal 4 inch pipe. I am thinking working with 2 inch pipe
instead of 4 could make life easier.

Any thoughts?

--
BenignVanilla
Experience is something you don't get until just after you need it.
tibetanbeefgarden.com

Remove MYFRONTALLOBE to email me.

BenignVanilla wrote:
I was originally planning on using 4 inch pipe for Shareholders Pond, but
now that I am 4 feet under ground and digging in concrete like clay, I am
revisiting that thought. I am seriously considering going with 2 inch pipe
or maybe two 2 inch pipes for my bottom drain. I realize 2 inch pipe + 2
inch pipe does not equal 4 inch pipe. I am thinking working with 2 inch pipe
instead of 4 could make life easier.

Any thoughts?

--
BenignVanilla
Experience is something you don't get until just after you need it.
tibetanbeefgarden.com

Remove MYFRONTALLOBE to email me.




-- tough question I would go 4 just so if the 2 2's didnt work out you
wouldnt have to tear it all out and redo it





John Rutz
spring is here but its wheels are stuck in the snow
see my pond at:

http://www.fuerjefe.com

One thing I found to break up the clay we have here (tough but not "concrete
like") is a pitchfork, stab in into the ground loosen and lift. It worked
for me, may or may not work for you but like all suggestions YMMV.

"BenignVanilla" m wrote in
message ...
I was originally planning on using 4 inch pipe for Shareholders Pond, but
now that I am 4 feet under ground and digging in concrete like clay, I am
revisiting that thought. I am seriously considering going with 2 inch pipe
or maybe two 2 inch pipes for my bottom drain. I realize 2 inch pipe + 2
inch pipe does not equal 4 inch pipe. I am thinking working with 2 inch
pipe
instead of 4 could make life easier.

Any thoughts?

--
BenignVanilla
Experience is something you don't get until just after you need it.
tibetanbeefgarden.com

Remove MYFRONTALLOBE to email me.

It would take 3 2" to equal 1 4" not taking into account friction
losses. The two inch pipes are much more susceptible to blockage also.
Bite the bullet and do it right the first time. You won't regret it.

"BenignVanilla" m wrote in message ...
I was originally planning on using 4 inch pipe for Shareholders Pond, but
now that I am 4 feet under ground and digging in concrete like clay, I am
revisiting that thought. I am seriously considering going with 2 inch pipe
or maybe two 2 inch pipes for my bottom drain. I realize 2 inch pipe + 2
inch pipe does not equal 4 inch pipe. I am thinking working with 2 inch pipe
instead of 4 could make life easier.

Any thoughts?

I would not suggest *any*thing smaller than 3"; the water flow is ONE thing,
but the ability not to clog is quite another, especially when you start
dealing with lengths longer than a few feet. Better to work a little harder
now, while you're doing it from scratch, than to kick yourself in the butt
later when you're trying to unclog pipe . . . From what I understand of your
design, you don't have any shut-off valves between the pond and your veggie
filter. If you did, you could drain the veggie filter, then open the valve
and SWOOOSH most clogs out as the water tries to equalize. But it's still a
bad idea: the OD of the pipe isn't THAT much (well, yes it is, but you'll be
happier later!)

Just my opinion . . . Lee



"BenignVanilla" m wrote in
message ...
I was originally planning on using 4 inch pipe for Shareholders Pond, but
now that I am 4 feet under ground and digging in concrete like clay, I am
revisiting that thought. I am seriously considering going with 2 inch pipe
or maybe two 2 inch pipes for my bottom drain. I realize 2 inch pipe + 2
inch pipe does not equal 4 inch pipe. I am thinking working with 2 inch
pipe
instead of 4 could make life easier.

Any thoughts?

--
BenignVanilla
Experience is something you don't get until just after you need it.
tibetanbeefgarden.com

Remove MYFRONTALLOBE to email me.

"Lee Brouillet" wrote in message
...
snip
later when you're trying to unclog pipe . . . From what I understand of
your
design, you don't have any shut-off valves between the pond and your
veggie
filter. If you did, you could drain the veggie filter, then open the valve
snip

Funny you mention that...I want to have valves at the end of the pipe, but I
have not seen any at Home Depot for the 4 inch pipe. Am I missing something?

BV.

BenignVanilla wrote:
"Lee Brouillet" wrote in message
...
snip

later when you're trying to unclog pipe . . . From what I understand of

your

design, you don't have any shut-off valves between the pond and your

veggie

filter. If you did, you could drain the veggie filter, then open the valve

snip

Funny you mention that...I want to have valves at the end of the pipe, but I
have not seen any at Home Depot for the 4 inch pipe. Am I missing something?

BV.


Nope if you want 4 in valves the web or a real good plumbing/well
supply store
and definitly be prepared for sticker shock

--





John Rutz
spring is here but its wheels are stuck in the snow
see my pond at:

http://www.fuerjefe.com

"BenignVanilla" m
wrote:

"Lee Brouillet" wrote in message
...
snip
later when you're trying to unclog pipe . . . From what I understand of
your
design, you don't have any shut-off valves between the pond and your
veggie
filter. If you did, you could drain the veggie filter, then open the valve
snip

Funny you mention that...I want to have valves at the end of the pipe, but I
have not seen any at Home Depot for the 4 inch pipe. Am I missing something?

You will have to special order one. For a waste application, a gate
valve will work best, and is the cheapest as well.

John Hines wrote in message
...
"BenignVanilla" m
wrote:

"Lee Brouillet" wrote in message
...
snip
later when you're trying to unclog pipe . . . From what I understand of
your
design, you don't have any shut-off valves between the pond and your
veggie
filter. If you did, you could drain the veggie filter, then open the
valve
snip

Funny you mention that...I want to have valves at the end of the pipe,
but I
have not seen any at Home Depot for the 4 inch pipe. Am I missing
something?

Why wouldn't a 4" cap over one or the other end of the pipe work? Just have
the pipe end stick out an inch or two.

"John Rutz" wrote in message
...
snip
Nope if you want 4 in valves the web or a real good plumbing/well
supply store
and definitly be prepared for sticker shock
snip

I figured as much, which is why I was thinking of using several smaller
pipes instead of one large. But I guess that would be a lot of work, in
order to save a few buck. I guess I will go 4inch.

BV.

(Cleveland Ponder) writes:

It would take 3 2" to equal 1 4" not taking into account friction
losses. The two inch pipes are much more susceptible to blockage also.

4 two inch == 1 four inch, area-wise.

Funny you mention that...I want to have valves at the end of the pipe, but I
have not seen any at Home Depot for the 4 inch pipe. Am I missing something?

Knife valves are the cheapest valve but hard to find in 4".

A threaded coupling and threaded plug on the end works, though
those get pricy too in 4", plus you get wet and can't reduce
the flow by half unless you drill the plug.

Just slipping a 4" cap over the end can work. Can be difficult
to remove.

Saran wrap with a rubber band is the low cost winner :-^

"bern muller" wrote in message
...
snip
Why wouldn't a 4" cap over one or the other end of the pipe work? Just
have
the pipe end stick out an inch or two.
snip

A pipe cap would be a binary valve. I am looking for an analog valve.

BV.

I will definitely go to 4" for sure, especially the portion that I can't get
to later. There is this cool shut of valve with zero restriction. It's
like a gate valve in the sense that it opens up in one plane like a garage
door.

If I see one this coming weekend I will post here and maybe pick it up as my
contribution to our community pond!

--
_______________________________________
"The difference between 'involvement' and 'commitment' is
like an eggs-and-ham breakfast:
The chicken was 'involved' - the pig was 'committed'."

http://community.webshots.com/user/godwino

"Benign Vanilla" wrote in
message ...
"John Rutz" wrote in message
...
snip
Nope if you want 4 in valves the web or a real good plumbing/well
supply store
and definitly be prepared for sticker shock
snip

I figured as much, which is why I was thinking of using several smaller
pipes instead of one large. But I guess that would be a lot of work, in
order to save a few buck. I guess I will go 4inch.

BV.

"Andrew Burgess" wrote in message
...
Funny you mention that...I want to have valves at the end of the pipe,
but I
have not seen any at Home Depot for the 4 inch pipe. Am I missing
something?

Knife valves are the cheapest valve but hard to find in 4".

A threaded coupling and threaded plug on the end works, though
those get pricy too in 4", plus you get wet and can't reduce
the flow by half unless you drill the plug.

Just slipping a 4" cap over the end can work. Can be difficult
to remove.

Saran wrap with a rubber band is the low cost winner :-^

I am not to overly concerned about this really. The main intent for the
valve was two fold...1) a way to throttle water flow, but I guess I should
be able to do that with my pump, when I choose it. 2) Be able to close off
the VF so I can drain it and clean it. For that I guess the cap could work.
Either way, this can wait...it's not an urgent item.

BV.