I recently transplanted a climbing rose. All the leaves have dried up and
are turning brown. The canes are still green, should I cut it back? What
is the proper way to transplant these plants. I have two more I need to
move. I am in zone 7 in eastern Virginia.

Thanks in advance,

--
Laura in Virginia

In 5d%Ma.32754$ZE.3734@lakeread05 Laura Gilbert wrote:
I recently transplanted a climbing rose. All the leaves have dried up
and are turning brown. The canes are still green, should I cut it
back? What is the proper way to transplant these plants. I have two
more I need to move. I am in zone 7 in eastern Virginia.

Moving roses mid-season isn't a great idea. And as for climbers, it's
probably a case of 'the bigger they come, the harder they fall'.

If this can't wait until next winter, make sure that you get as many
roots as possible when you dig up the bush. Lift from beneath, don't
pull from the top. Transplant firmly into the new soil, which should be
well broken up (not solid clay or heavy clumps). Sprinkle in some
rooting hormone powder before you fill the planting hole. Fill the hole
with soil or high-end potting mix, firm it down and water in well.

There's no need to cut back the stems, but you need to baby the plant
for a few weeks at least. Liquid feeds of seaweed emulsion will prompt
root growth. Don't use powdered fertiliser until you see fresh shoots
growing.

Even if you follow all this, Laura, the rose may still die of transplant
shock.

Laura Gilbert wrote:

I recently transplanted a climbing rose. All the leaves have dried up and
are turning brown. The canes are still green, should I cut it back?

Don't fertilize! When you transplant, you need to remove the amount
of top growth to match the amount of roots you moved. So if you haven't
already cut the canes back, you should do it now. It is not unusual to
cut them back to two or three feet. Remove all flowers and most of the
foliage. The rose doesn't have the feeder root network it needs to
supply moisture to the top growth. The rose can actually dry out and
die if there is too much foliage and bloom. Until those feeder roots
are established, you can assist by keeping the canes misted daily. You
should see signs of new growth in as little as 7 days and usually not
more than 14. Don't fertilize.(I repeat that on purpose.) If the rose
is in a really hot, sunny area, rigging some shade isn't bad.

The rose has to grow new roots. Once that process is well under way,
you will know it because you will see new growth on top. That's when
you can start with a mild, 50% of full strength water soluble
fertilzer.

What is the proper way to transplant these plants. I have two more I
need to move. I am in zone 7 in eastern Virginia.

The best time to move plants is during the bareroot season (late
winter/early spring). Try to get as much of the root ball as possible.
You'll be lucky to get a big mass that 18 x 18", but if you have nice
soil and can get more, take it. Cut, don't tear, the roots you can't
dig out. Then cut all the canes back to 18 - 24". Of course you will
have already prepared the new rose holes, added bone meal and lots of
great soil amendments. Treat your transplanted rose just like a
bareroot because that is what it is. If you mulch the canes in your
area to keep them from drying out, mulch your transplant.

I moved 4 climbers and 1 floribunda last winter with no losses. What I
learned is that cutting the canes back to 18" to 24" produces just as
much growth and better shape than leaving them long -- which was a
temptation because I thought I was going to give them a headstart. It
didn't work that way.

--
-=-
Cass
USDA Zone 9 Left Coast
www.rosefog.us