I have several new trees (all within 2 years of age). I was wondering
what type of fertilization I should do and when. Thanks

On 7 Aug 2003 14:53:33 -0700, (Monty) wrote:

I have several new trees (all within 2 years of age). I was wondering
what type of fertilization I should do and when. Thanks

I wrote it all out in another post about Bradford Pears. If you didn't get that
message in your ISP server, I'll repost it here. It won't all apply, but the
method of adding compost and mulch will. You should never need to fertilize
native trees.

One thing you can do is water the trees with the cheapest of all sprinklers.
One of those little two dollar round yellow things, with the holes on top. Nice
large drops come down and soak in rather than evaporating into hot air. Don't
water when it's windy to cut down on water loss, and try to get the ground a
little wet before a rain is expected. That will break the surface tension and
allow more water to leach down. Never let the soil completely dry out and water
out by the drip line of the tree, no closer to the trunk than about two feet.
If you don't now have it, dig away the grass and put mulch on the soil where the
tree is. Invest five dollars and buy a gallon of aerated compost tea at The
Natural Gardener and use it according to their instructions. You can also buy a
few bags of Revitilizer compost while you are there for about 6 dollars. Make
some ragged holes around the drip line of the tree with a garden fork, really
jag up the soil, water it, put the compost down, mulch, water again.

Who knows, you may be able to get several years out of the trees which will
allow you to buy much smaller native species and get them in the ground this
fall. By the time you see too much damage on the pear trees, you will have a
few years jump on the native species and you can cut the ornamental pears down.

I assume the trees are in central Texas, right? A good time of year
to fertilize is in March or April, just before or at the time they
begin leafing out. Are the trees potted, or in the ground in their
permanent locations? It makes a difference. In pots, use fertilizer
sparingly.

These plants are likely pretty small.

Don't put any dry chemical fertilizer next to the trunk.. the
fertilizer can burn or scorch if it comes into direct contact with it.
I guess there's all kinds of organic type fertilizers that might work,
or applying a layer of compost that you water in well, though I like
diluted Miracle-Gro myself. This is a green or blue powder that you
dissolve in water, something like a couple of tablespoons per five
gallon bucket.
I strongly recommend laying down a 3 or 4-inch layer of composted
mulch around each tree. Be sure to extend the layer out to AT LEAST
the drip lines, and preferably far out enough to cover any new leaf
growth for the upcoming growth season.
Better yet, skip the chemical fertilizer and just add the mulch layer
for these small trees.

rick

(Monty) wrote in message . com...
I have several new trees (all within 2 years of age). I was wondering
what type of fertilization I should do and when. Thanks

Howdy folks,
In regards to this message:

(Monty) wrote in message . com...
I have several new trees (all within 2 years of age). I was wondering
what type of fertilization I should do and when. Thanks

The best thing to do is get a soil test. It's some work and a
small expense but in the long run you can save yourself from adding
nutrients that you may not need or may even do more harm than good.
Contact the county extension agency for your county to get a soil test
kit. We have talked about this a number of times in this forum, but in
some areas of Travis county there are toxic levels of phosphates in
our soil. The only way to find out is through a soil test in which
case the only recomendation will be to add nitrogen and the soil test
will tell you how much. Nitrogen is available through a variety of
organic sources.
As far as timing, either the early spring or early fall when new
growth is kicking off. You don't want to force growth when the trees (
or any plant ) are slowing down in the summer or winter.
One note about mulch around trees, keep it off the bark so it
doesn't hold moisture against the bark and rot it out, girdling the
tree.

Take care, hope everyone is having a good summer.
Steve Coyle
www.austingardencenter.com

Howdy folks,
In regards to this message:

(Monty) wrote in message . com...
I have several new trees (all within 2 years of age). I was wondering
what type of fertilization I should do and when. Thanks

The best thing to do is get a soil test. It's some work and a
small expense but in the long run you can save yourself from adding
nutrients that you may not need or may even do more harm than good.
Contact the county extension agency for your county to get a soil test
kit. We have talked about this a number of times in this forum, but in
some areas of Travis county there are toxic levels of phosphates in
our soil. The only way to find out is through a soil test in which
case the only recomendation will be to add nitrogen and the soil test
will tell you how much. Nitrogen is available through a variety of
organic sources.
As far as timing, either the early spring or early fall when new
growth is kicking off. You don't want to force growth when the trees (
or any plant ) are slowing down in the summer or winter.
One note about mulch around trees, keep it off the bark so it
doesn't hold moisture against the bark and rot it out, girdling the
tree.

Take care, hope everyone is having a good summer.
Steve Coyle
www.austingardencenter.com

Howdy folks,
In regards to this message:

(Monty) wrote in message . com...
I have several new trees (all within 2 years of age). I was wondering
what type of fertilization I should do and when. Thanks

The best thing to do is get a soil test. It's some work and a
small expense but in the long run you can save yourself from adding
nutrients that you may not need or may even do more harm than good.
Contact the county extension agency for your county to get a soil test
kit. We have talked about this a number of times in this forum, but in
some areas of Travis county there are toxic levels of phosphates in
our soil. The only way to find out is through a soil test in which
case the only recomendation will be to add nitrogen and the soil test
will tell you how much. Nitrogen is available through a variety of
organic sources.
As far as timing, either the early spring or early fall when new
growth is kicking off. You don't want to force growth when the trees (
or any plant ) are slowing down in the summer or winter.
One note about mulch around trees, keep it off the bark so it
doesn't hold moisture against the bark and rot it out, girdling the
tree.

Take care, hope everyone is having a good summer.
Steve Coyle
www.austingardencenter.com

And don't use Texas Green Sand. Someone recommended I do that, and it nearly
killed a young cedar elm.



"Steve Coyle" wrote in message
om...
Howdy folks,
In regards to this message:

(Monty) wrote in message
. com...
I have several new trees (all within 2 years of age). I was wondering
what type of fertilization I should do and when. Thanks

The best thing to do is get a soil test. It's some work and a
small expense but in the long run you can save yourself from adding
nutrients that you may not need or may even do more harm than good.
Contact the county extension agency for your county to get a soil test
kit. We have talked about this a number of times in this forum, but in
some areas of Travis county there are toxic levels of phosphates in
our soil. The only way to find out is through a soil test in which
case the only recomendation will be to add nitrogen and the soil test
will tell you how much. Nitrogen is available through a variety of
organic sources.
As far as timing, either the early spring or early fall when new
growth is kicking off. You don't want to force growth when the trees (
or any plant ) are slowing down in the summer or winter.
One note about mulch around trees, keep it off the bark so it
doesn't hold moisture against the bark and rot it out, girdling the
tree.

Take care, hope everyone is having a good summer.
Steve Coyle
www.austingardencenter.com

Texas greensand is an excellent source of potassium and iron, but it can be over
used. I believe I use it at a rate of one pound per 100 square feet. Any more
than that and it can become toxic. I also don't use it every year. It doesn't
move about in the soil that much, so about every third year I use it.


On Sat, 16 Aug 2003 03:14:31 GMT, "JanTGH" wrote:

And don't use Texas Green Sand. Someone recommended I do that, and it nearly
killed a young cedar elm.



"Steve Coyle" wrote in message
. com...
Howdy folks,
In regards to this message:

(Monty) wrote in message
.com...
I have several new trees (all within 2 years of age). I was wondering
what type of fertilization I should do and when. Thanks

The best thing to do is get a soil test. It's some work and a
small expense but in the long run you can save yourself from adding
nutrients that you may not need or may even do more harm than good.
Contact the county extension agency for your county to get a soil test
kit. We have talked about this a number of times in this forum, but in
some areas of Travis county there are toxic levels of phosphates in
our soil. The only way to find out is through a soil test in which
case the only recomendation will be to add nitrogen and the soil test
will tell you how much. Nitrogen is available through a variety of
organic sources.
As far as timing, either the early spring or early fall when new
growth is kicking off. You don't want to force growth when the trees (
or any plant ) are slowing down in the summer or winter.
One note about mulch around trees, keep it off the bark so it
doesn't hold moisture against the bark and rot it out, girdling the
tree.

Take care, hope everyone is having a good summer.
Steve Coyle
www.austingardencenter.com