Following on from the previous thread about blossom end rot, we are now
finding that those that didn't have BER are splitting across the top. Any
ideas on the cause.

I know BER is reputed to be due to lack of or intermittent watering. I also
think the incredibly hot weather in July had an effect. In previous years
we have always grown our tomatoes in a smallish greenhouse - open doors
either end to create a throughflow of air. Although we still got some BER on
the first trusses, we never had any problems with later ones. This year we
grew them in a very large glasshouse and although all windows and doors were
open, there never seemed to be a cooling flow of air. Despite being watered
3/4 times a day, the BER has been much worse than usual.

Have decided to go back to using the smaller greenhouse next year -
convinced it will make a difference

Jeanne

Jeanne Stockdale wrote:
there never seemed to be a cooling flow of air. Despite being watered
3/4 times a day, the BER has been much worse than usual.

This is strange, because if ventilation was supplied,there must have
been some cooling during periods of intense sunshine.
In my view (and experience) BER is primarily caused by excess heat to
the fruit

David Henderson

" Jeanne Stockdale" wrote
Following on from the previous thread about blossom end rot, we are now
finding that those that didn't have BER are splitting across the top. Any
ideas on the cause.

I know BER is reputed to be due to lack of or intermittent watering. I
also think the incredibly hot weather in July had an effect. In previous
years
we have always grown our tomatoes in a smallish greenhouse - open doors
either end to create a throughflow of air. Although we still got some BER
on
the first trusses, we never had any problems with later ones. This year we
grew them in a very large glasshouse and although all windows and doors
were
open, there never seemed to be a cooling flow of air. Despite being
watered 3/4 times a day, the BER has been much worse than usual.

Have decided to go back to using the smaller greenhouse next year -
convinced it will make a difference


I covered all this in my previous reply to your previous thread of the 1st.
It's erratic watering and/or cold nights after warm days (fluctuating
temperatures) that causes fruit splitting and with BER also being caused by
a lack of calcium caused by erratic watering as well, (and/or acid soil) I
think your problem is erratic watering.

Suggest a barrel with seep hose attached placed along the row of plants so
you top the barrel up once a day (can install a ball cock valve for constant
pressure in the barrel.) so it feeds water at a constant rate. You might
also have a problem with your large greenhouse not having enough ventilation
such that the temperature rises** too much during sunshine, suggest more
ventilation and shade cloth or similar. You need both top and bottom (side
louvers next to the floor) vents to ensure a good throughput of air.
**A Max/Min thermometer will tell you this.

--
Regards
Bob H
17mls W. of London.UK

Bob Hobden wrote:
" Jeanne Stockdale" wrote
Following on from the previous thread about blossom end rot, we are now
finding that those that didn't have BER are splitting across the top. Any
ideas on the cause.

I know BER is reputed to be due to lack of or intermittent watering. I
also think the incredibly hot weather in July had an effect. In previous
years
we have always grown our tomatoes in a smallish greenhouse - open doors
either end to create a throughflow of air. Although we still got some BER
on
the first trusses, we never had any problems with later ones. This year we
grew them in a very large glasshouse and although all windows and doors
were
open, there never seemed to be a cooling flow of air. Despite being
watered 3/4 times a day, the BER has been much worse than usual.

Have decided to go back to using the smaller greenhouse next year -
convinced it will make a difference


I covered all this in my previous reply to your previous thread of the 1st.
It's erratic watering and/or cold nights after warm days (fluctuating
temperatures) that causes fruit splitting and with BER also being caused by
a lack of calcium caused by erratic watering as well, (and/or acid soil) I
think your problem is erratic watering.

Suggest a barrel with seep hose attached placed along the row of plants so
you top the barrel up once a day (can install a ball cock valve for constant
pressure in the barrel.) so it feeds water at a constant rate. You might
also have a problem with your large greenhouse not having enough ventilation
such that the temperature rises** too much during sunshine, suggest more
ventilation and shade cloth or similar. You need both top and bottom (side
louvers next to the floor) vents to ensure a good throughput of air.
**A Max/Min thermometer will tell you this.

I wonder how many people, like me, have neglected watering since all the
rain, with the result of tubs and basket plants suffering, including
tomato split? Seems silly going out in the rain to water, but necessary
it would appear.