I have several seedlings of Betula albosinensis and Betula utilis, and
I would like to try growing some of them as multi-stemmed trees. I
understand that this can be achieved by pruning them to the ground,
after which multiple stems are thrown up. Could anybody help, please,
with the following questions?

1) At what stage in the tree's development should it be done, e.g.
how old, or at what thickness of stem?

2) When would be the best time of year to do it? I know birches can
bleed a lot of sap.

3) Does this method of growth have an impact on the tree's mature
height, i.e. will I end up with a shorter tree?


Thanks very much in advance.

In article .com,
"Ornata" writes:
| I have several seedlings of Betula albosinensis and Betula utilis, and
| I would like to try growing some of them as multi-stemmed trees. I
| understand that this can be achieved by pruning them to the ground,
| after which multiple stems are thrown up. Could anybody help, please,
| with the following questions?

I am not an expert, but the following are fairly general answers:

| 1) At what stage in the tree's development should it be done, e.g.
| how old, or at what thickness of stem?

Any time after it has produced a couple of 'nodes' (for most
broad-leaved trees, that is leaf-stem attachments), from which it
might branch. You may need to repeat it on the more vigorous shoot,
to balance them and to get the requisite number of stems.

| 2) When would be the best time of year to do it? I know birches can
| bleed a lot of sap.

Not from late winter to midsummer, certainly. I would do it after
leaf fall and before the end of January (in Cambridge).

| 3) Does this method of growth have an impact on the tree's mature
| height, i.e. will I end up with a shorter tree?

Probably. Not necessarily by much, though.


Regards,
Nick Maclaren.

Ornata wrote:
I have several seedlings of Betula albosinensis and Betula utilis, and
I would like to try growing some of them as multi-stemmed trees. I
understand that this can be achieved by pruning them to the ground,
after which multiple stems are thrown up.

An alternative is to plant 3 in the same planting hole.

pk

On 5 Apr, 11:36, (Nick Maclaren) wrote:
In article .com,"Ornata" writes:

| I have several seedlings of Betula albosinensis and Betula utilis, and
| I would like to try growing some of them as multi-stemmed trees. I
| understand that this can be achieved by pruning them to the ground,
| after which multiple stems are thrown up. Could anybody help, please,
| with the following questions?

I am not an expert, but the following are fairly general answers:

| 1) At what stage in the tree's development should it be done, e.g.
| how old, or at what thickness of stem?

Any time after it has produced a couple of 'nodes' (for most
broad-leaved trees, that is leaf-stem attachments), from which it
might branch. You may need to repeat it on the more vigorous shoot,
to balance them and to get the requisite number of stems.

| 2) When would be the best time of year to do it? I know birches can
| bleed a lot of sap.

Not from late winter to midsummer, certainly. I would do it after
leaf fall and before the end of January (in Cambridge).

| 3) Does this method of growth have an impact on the tree's mature
| height, i.e. will I end up with a shorter tree?

Probably. Not necessarily by much, though.

Regards,
Nick Maclaren.

If you have several then why not plant them as clumps instead.
David Hill
Abacus Nurseries

On 5 Apr, 13:20, "Dave Hill" wrote:
On 5 Apr, 11:36, (Nick Maclaren) wrote:





In article .com,"Ornata" writes:

| I have several seedlings of Betula albosinensis and Betula utilis, and
| I would like to try growing some of them as multi-stemmed trees. I
| understand that this can be achieved by pruning them to the ground,
| after which multiple stems are thrown up. Could anybody help, please,
| with the following questions?

I am not an expert, but the following are fairly general answers:

| 1) At what stage in the tree's development should it be done, e.g.
| how old, or at what thickness of stem?

Any time after it has produced a couple of 'nodes' (for most
broad-leaved trees, that is leaf-stem attachments), from which it
might branch. You may need to repeat it on the more vigorous shoot,
to balance them and to get the requisite number of stems.

| 2) When would be the best time of year to do it? I know birches can
| bleed a lot of sap.

Not from late winter to midsummer, certainly. I would do it after
leaf fall and before the end of January (in Cambridge).

| 3) Does this method of growth have an impact on the tree's mature
| height, i.e. will I end up with a shorter tree?

Probably. Not necessarily by much, though.

Regards,
Nick Maclaren.

If you have several then why not plant them as clumps instead.
David Hill
Abacus Nurseries- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Thanks all for the replies. I think I'll attempt a bit of butchery
this autumn when they're dormant. I'll keep them as separate trees
rather than planting several together, because there might be
variations in bark colour (which I suppose could look interesting but
then again it might just look odd!)

On 10 Apr, 13:45, "Ornata" wrote:
On 5 Apr, 13:20, "Dave Hill" wrote:



On 5 Apr, 11:36, (Nick Maclaren) wrote:

In article .com,"Ornata" writes:

| I have several seedlings of Betula albosinensis and Betula utilis, and
| I would like to try growing some of them as multi-stemmed trees. I
| understand that this can be achieved by pruning them to the ground,
| after which multiple stems are thrown up. Could anybody help, please,
| with the following questions?

I am not an expert, but the following are fairly general answers:

| 1) At what stage in the tree's development should it be done, e.g.
| how old, or at what thickness of stem?

Any time after it has produced a couple of 'nodes' (for most
broad-leaved trees, that is leaf-stem attachments), from which it
might branch. You may need to repeat it on the more vigorous shoot,
to balance them and to get the requisite number of stems.

| 2) When would be the best time of year to do it? I know birches can
| bleed a lot of sap.

Not from late winter to midsummer, certainly. I would do it after
leaf fall and before the end of January (in Cambridge).

| 3) Does this method of growth have an impact on the tree's mature
| height, i.e. will I end up with a shorter tree?

Probably. Not necessarily by much, though.

Regards,
Nick Maclaren.

If you have several then why not plant them as clumps instead.
David Hill
Abacus Nurseries- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Thanks all for the replies. I think I'll attempt a bit of butchery
this autumn when they're dormant. I'll keep them as separate trees
rather than planting several together, because there might be
variations in bark colour (which I suppose could look interesting but
then again it might just look odd!)

Why wait till the autumn?
Now is the time to cut them back to 3 or 4 leaves whilst they are
small and still in pots.
Then plant out next spring.
David Hill
Abacus Nurseries

In article .com,
"Dave Hill" writes:
|
| Why wait till the autumn?
| Now is the time to cut them back to 3 or 4 leaves whilst they are
| small and still in pots.

As with vines, now is precisely when NOT to cut into old wood. And
it is not always easy to tell when young wood stops and old wood
begins.


Regards,
Nick Maclaren.

On 11 Apr, 00:06, (Nick Maclaren) wrote:
In article .com,"Dave Hill" writes:

|
| Why wait till the autumn?
| Now is the time to cut them back to 3 or 4 leaves whilst they are
| small and still in pots.

As with vines, now is precisely when NOT to cut into old wood. And
it is not always easy to tell when young wood stops and old wood
begins.

Regards,
Nick Maclaren.

I am asuming that these are seedlings at about 12 inches, at this size
cutting a couple hard back should do no harm, I agree if they are
around 3 ft or so then this is the wrong time, but at that size they
should be in the ground.
David Hill
Abacus Nurseries.

On 11 Apr, 09:32, "Dave Hill" wrote:
On 11 Apr, 00:06, (Nick Maclaren) wrote:

In article .com,"Dave Hill" writes:

|
| Why wait till the autumn?
| Now is the time to cut them back to 3 or 4 leaves whilst they are
| small and still in pots.

As with vines, now is precisely when NOT to cut into old wood. And
it is not always easy to tell when young wood stops and old wood
begins.

Regards,
Nick Maclaren.

I am asuming that these are seedlings at about 12 inches, at this size
cutting a couple hard back should do no harm, I agree if they are
around 3 ft or so then this is the wrong time, but at that size they
should be in the ground.
David Hill
Abacus Nurseries.

Yes, they are about a food high (a little smaller if anything). So
does that mean it's safe to cut them back now rather than waiting
until dormancy?
Thanks again.