Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
Good Time to plant an Acer?
In message , Emery Davis
writes You know it won't grow in chalk. Otherwise not too picky about soil, although prefers slightly acidic. Don't use much soil amendment in heavy soil, it causes drainage problems. If you're in heavy clay, the best bet is to build up on top of the soil, if you want to keep the tree small (bear in mind Sango kaku is a 12 foot tree). Otherwise you can certainly grow A. palmatum in clay, but very tough to establish. Don't fertilize beyond a little bone meal, you can do a little osmocote the second year. Good luck. Even experienced maple growers kill scads of these (and Sango kaku is pretty tricky) so "If at first you don't succeed..." -E We were given one for our coral anniversary a couple of years ago, and in our ignorance have been really successful with it - so far. But I have just gone out to have a closer look, and most of the bark has been stripped from it at a level that makes me suspect our cat! Any ideas how I can bandage it to help it to heal and at the same time keep the cat from further damaging it? -- Klara, Gatwick basin |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
Good Time to plant an Acer?
In article , Klara
wrote: In message , Emery Davis writes You know it won't grow in chalk. Otherwise not too picky about soil, although prefers slightly acidic. Don't use much soil amendment in heavy soil, it causes drainage problems. If you're in heavy clay, the best bet is to build up on top of the soil, if you want to keep the tree small (bear in mind Sango kaku is a 12 foot tree). Otherwise you can certainly grow A. palmatum in clay, but very tough to establish. Don't fertilize beyond a little bone meal, you can do a little osmocote the second year. Good luck. Even experienced maple growers kill scads of these (and Sango kaku is pretty tricky) so "If at first you don't succeed..." We were given one for our coral anniversary a couple of years ago, and in our ignorance have been really successful with it - so far. But I have just gone out to have a closer look, and most of the bark has been stripped from it at a level that makes me suspect our cat! Any ideas how I can bandage it to help it to heal and at the same time keep the cat from further damaging it? Rabbits love sweet young bark and have been the certain cause of young saplings of mine being stripped back to bare wood from approx 18in high down to ground level. A low coil of chicken wire should provide protection. |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
Good Time to plant an Acer?
In message , Stan The Man
writes We were given one for our coral anniversary a couple of years ago, and in our ignorance have been really successful with it - so far. But I have just gone out to have a closer look, and most of the bark has been stripped from it at a level that makes me suspect our cat! Any ideas how I can bandage it to help it to heal and at the same time keep the cat from further damaging it? Rabbits love sweet young bark and have been the certain cause of young saplings of mine being stripped back to bare wood from approx 18in high down to ground level. A low coil of chicken wire should provide protection. It was at around 18 inches, so I discounted rabbits ... also, we have lots of foxes and haven't seen rabbits in a long time. But there are deer and badgers.... In any case, the chicken wire idea should work on whatever it is - thanks! Should I paint the trunk with something in the hope that it will protect the tree from infection, given that quite a bit of bark is missing? Thanks! -- Klara, Gatwick basin |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
Good Time to plant an Acer?
In article , Klara
wrote: In message , Stan The Man writes We were given one for our coral anniversary a couple of years ago, and in our ignorance have been really successful with it - so far. But I have just gone out to have a closer look, and most of the bark has been stripped from it at a level that makes me suspect our cat! Any ideas how I can bandage it to help it to heal and at the same time keep the cat from further damaging it? Rabbits love sweet young bark and have been the certain cause of young saplings of mine being stripped back to bare wood from approx 18in high down to ground level. A low coil of chicken wire should provide protection. It was at around 18 inches, so I discounted rabbits ... also, we have lots of foxes and haven't seen rabbits in a long time. But there are deer and badgers.... In any case, the chicken wire idea should work on whatever it is - thanks! Should I paint the trunk with something in the hope that it will protect the tree from infection, given that quite a bit of bark is missing? If the full circumference is stripped I fear you will lose the tree as the sap won't be able to travel up to the leaves. In any event it is likely that there will be no new growth above the stripped bark albeit you may get some new growth at ground level. Cork trees seem to cope well when their bark is stripped/harvested but they are an exception. |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
Good Time to plant an Acer?
If the full circumference is stripped I fear you will lose the tree as the sap won't be able to travel up to the leaves. In any event it is likely that there will be no new growth above the stripped bark albeit you may get some new growth at ground level. Cork trees seem to cope well when their bark is stripped/harvested but they are an exception. I've always wondered about that. Is the explanation that it's not actually the bark itself that carries the sap up the tree but the very thin layer just inside it (phloem????), and which is destroyed in most trees when you remove the bark. But on a cork oak the bark is so thick you can remove the bark without removing that layer? Or is the layer also thicker on a cork oak? -- Kay |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
Good Time to plant an Acer?
In article ,
wrote: If the full circumference is stripped I fear you will lose the tree as the sap won't be able to travel up to the leaves. In any event it is likely that there will be no new growth above the stripped bark albeit you may get some new growth at ground level. Cork trees seem to cope well when their bark is stripped/harvested but they are an exception. I've always wondered about that. Is the explanation that it's not actually the bark itself that carries the sap up the tree but the very thin layer just inside it (phloem????), and which is destroyed in most trees when you remove the bark. But on a cork oak the bark is so thick you can remove the bark without removing that layer? Or is the layer also thicker on a cork oak? I believe that cork is harvested from the outer layer of the bark but the more likely reason for the tree's survival and bark regeneration is that the bark is stripped in a spiral and so the stripping never completes the fatal circle. |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
Good Time to plant an Acer?
Stan The Man writes
In article , wrote: If the full circumference is stripped I fear you will lose the tree as the sap won't be able to travel up to the leaves. In any event it is likely that there will be no new growth above the stripped bark albeit you may get some new growth at ground level. Cork trees seem to cope well when their bark is stripped/harvested but they are an exception. I've always wondered about that. Is the explanation that it's not actually the bark itself that carries the sap up the tree but the very thin layer just inside it (phloem????), and which is destroyed in most trees when you remove the bark. But on a cork oak the bark is so thick you can remove the bark without removing that layer? Or is the layer also thicker on a cork oak? I believe that cork is harvested from the outer layer of the bark but the more likely reason for the tree's survival and bark regeneration is that the bark is stripped in a spiral and so the stripping never completes the fatal circle. That method of cutting doesn't tie up with what I've observed in Portugal, which is that the circumference is completely stripped and the removed pieces of bark form a cylinder with vertical cut, with no indication that the cut edges don't match up perfectly. Googling suggests you're right in that it's only the outer layer, eg: (from http://www.killerplants.com/weird-plants/20040101.asp) "Cork oaks produce a unique bark. Phloem and xylem derive from the cambium, a thin cylinder of actively dividing cells in the trunk and branches. Phloem tissue is created to the outside of the cambium; xylem to the inside. As the tree grows in diameter, xylem becomes wood; phloem becomes bark. In the cork oak, the cambium is called the "mother of cork". Unlike most trees that shed the outermost layers of bark, the cork oak retains its bark. The bark is insulating--it protects the living cambium from heat. The bark is lightweight, crossed by lenticels or pores that allow the exchange of gases between the living cells and the atmosphere. The bark is fire-resistant; the outer layers will char, but not burn, during a wildfire." .... in other words, it's as if a birch tree, say, didn't shed all those lovely sheets of paper and instead stacked them up until we harvested them in one go several years later. -- Kay |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
Good Time to plant an Acer?
In message , Stan The Man
writes Should I paint the trunk with something in the hope that it will protect the tree from infection, given that quite a bit of bark is missing? If the full circumference is stripped I fear you will lose the tree as the sap won't be able to travel up to the leaves. In any event it is likely that there will be no new growth above the stripped bark albeit you may get some new growth at ground level. Cork trees seem to cope well when their bark is stripped/harvested but they are an exception. It is stripped the way something with claws would do it, and actually mostly on one side, so there is a bit that is still intact. Is there some sort of first aid I can apply, to try to salvage it? (It's a lovely little tree, and, of course, an anniversary gift from our three daughters....) There is a lot of new growth from below that point, but that would turn more into something like a bush.... -- Klara, Gatwick basin |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
To the original poster: The smaller the tree is when you plant it, the better it will establish and grow on. Most potted trees in garden centres are pot-bound - their roots are going round in circles in too small a container. You can tease out the roots to a degree but it's never quite the same. If the tree is bare-rooted, it has lost a good proportion of its roots when removed from the soil. The smaller the tree, the less proportion it has lost. Commercial forestry nurseries, for example, undercut their seedlings in situ to encourage new growth of feeding roots at the expense of support roots. This means the seedling will feed itself well when planted out but it has to be small enough not to be blown over. It is rare to get a really good tree at the normal garden centre. It's usually best to hunt out a specialist in the trees you are after. Hope this helps. |
#11
|
|||
|
|||
Good Time to plant an Acer?
In article , Klara
wrote: In message , Stan The Man writes Should I paint the trunk with something in the hope that it will protect the tree from infection, given that quite a bit of bark is missing? If the full circumference is stripped I fear you will lose the tree as the sap won't be able to travel up to the leaves. In any event it is likely that there will be no new growth above the stripped bark albeit you may get some new growth at ground level. Cork trees seem to cope well when their bark is stripped/harvested but they are an exception. It is stripped the way something with claws would do it, and actually mostly on one side, so there is a bit that is still intact. Is there some sort of first aid I can apply, to try to salvage it? (It's a lovely little tree, and, of course, an anniversary gift from our three daughters....) There is a lot of new growth from below that point, but that would turn more into something like a bush.... You could try something like Prune & Seal - see http://www.growingsuccess.org.uk/det...eal&cat=Garden _Care - but I wouldn't be optimistic. Squirrels like to strip bark too. |
#12
|
|||
|
|||
Well i've been a purchased the Osakazuki i showed you in the picture, it was too nice a plant to turn down.
I am a little confused though. Emery above says not to plant the tree now. Whereas i asked the guy at the garden centre out of curiosity and he said to get it in the ground now. Dig a whole twice as big, both width and depth as the current pot its in and mix in some ericaceous compost with the existing soil. Soak the plant for 10 mins before planting and then water again once in. Confused? I am! Any clarification as what to do next would be very much appreciated. Cheers. |
#13
|
|||
|
|||
Good Time to plant an Acer?
Klara wrote:
It is stripped the way something with claws would do it, and actually mostly on one side, so there is a bit that is still intact. Is there some sort of first aid I can apply, to try to salvage it? (It's a lovely little tree, and, of course, an anniversary gift from our three daughters....) I would simply go with the chicken wire advice. Even when limbs are removed, current thinking is not to paint anything on. I has a similar experience, a few years ago, and the tree has grown to have a healthy 6 inch trunk, and right now a mass of golden leaves. Chris -- Chris J Dixon Nottingham UK Have dancing shoes, will ceilidh. |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Forum | |||
Re-pot a chili plant - is now a good time? | United Kingdom | |||
there Petra will follow the request, and if Madeleine not sails it too, the suffering will destroy from time to time the deaf cottage | Ponds | |||
Is it a good time to plant spring bulbs in New jersey | Gardening | |||
Good morning or good evening depending upon your location. I want to ask you the most important question of your life. Your joy or sorrow for all eternity depends upon your answer. The question is: Are you saved? It is not a question of how good | United Kingdom | |||
what compost to pot plant acer | United Kingdom |