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#1
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Fruit trees
I would like to ask for some advice about my fruit trees, if I may?
I have apple and plum trees in my garden; all dwarf types. The last few years we have been away working for most of the summer and in the last two years, in the autumn, the fruits have dropped before being fully formed and look scabby. They flowered very well. It looks like we might be away for most of this summer too, is there something I can use to prevent that happening? Some spray perhaps? Something I can do now? I would be grateful for any advice, because it is such a waste! Thank you for any help you may be able to give. -- http://www.shop.helpforheroes.org.uk/ |
#2
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Fruit trees
On Mar 11, 3:41*pm, "Ophelia" wrote:
I would like to ask for some advice about my fruit trees, if I may? I have apple and plum trees in my garden; all dwarf types. *The last few years we have been away working for most of the summer and in the last two years, in the autumn, the fruits have dropped before being fully formed and look scabby. *They flowered very well. It looks like we might be away for most of this summer too, is there something I can use to prevent that happening? *Some spray perhaps? Something I can do now? I would be grateful for any advice, because it is such a waste! Thank you for any help you may be able to give. --http://www.shop.helpforheroes.org.uk/ Sounds like pollination failure. Many trees need an appropiate partner, ie one in blossom at the same time. And insects to pollinate them. Also, a dry spell can also cause fruit to drop prematurely. |
#3
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Fruit trees
"harry" wrote in message ... Sounds like pollination failure. Many trees need an appropiate partner, ie one in blossom at the same time. And insects to pollinate them. Also, a dry spell can also cause fruit to drop prematurely. These come to fruit and then when they are half grown ... Is that a failure of polination? and then there is the scab! This has only happened in the past 2 years. They fruited fine until then. -- http://www.shop.helpforheroes.org.uk/ |
#4
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Fruit trees
On 3/11/2012 1:16 PM, Ophelia wrote:
"harry" wrote in message ... Sounds like pollination failure. Many trees need an appropiate partner, ie one in blossom at the same time. And insects to pollinate them. Also, a dry spell can also cause fruit to drop prematurely. These come to fruit and then when they are half grown ... Is that a failure of polination? and then there is the scab! This has only happened in the past 2 years. They fruited fine until then. Last year, one of my apple trees had not a single fruit on it - in previous years, it's yielded enough to share with the extended family, and still have plenty left for us. It _looks_ healthy, just like its mate nearby. |
#5
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Fruit trees
"S Viemeister" wrote in message ... Last year, one of my apple trees had not a single fruit on it - in previous years, it's yielded enough to share with the extended family, and still have plenty left for us. It _looks_ healthy, just like its mate nearby. BUT, did it fruit fine, grow to about half size, scab up and then drop off?? -- http://www.shop.helpforheroes.org.uk/ |
#6
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Fruit trees
On 3/11/2012 3:09 PM, Ophelia wrote:
"S Viemeister" wrote in message ... Last year, one of my apple trees had not a single fruit on it - in previous years, it's yielded enough to share with the extended family, and still have plenty left for us. It _looks_ healthy, just like its mate nearby. BUT, did it fruit fine, grow to about half size, scab up and then drop off?? Blossomed, fruited, dried and dropped before even reaching half size. |
#7
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Fruit trees
"Sacha" wrote in message ... On 2012-03-11 17:16:54 +0000, "Ophelia" said: "harry" wrote in message ... Sounds like pollination failure. Many trees need an appropiate partner, ie one in blossom at the same time. And insects to pollinate them. Also, a dry spell can also cause fruit to drop prematurely. These come to fruit and then when they are half grown ... Is that a failure of polination? and then there is the scab! This has only happened in the past 2 years. They fruited fine until then. That sounds more like drought, though of course, it is just possible that your trees are very old and simply past their best? We have an ancient apple tree like that but I can't bear to think of it being cut down, although it's useless as a fruit tree! Hmm well, these are about 10 years old... is that very old?? They are dwarf so perhaps that makes a difference? -- http://www.shop.helpforheroes.org.uk/ |
#8
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Fruit trees
"Sacha" wrote in message ... It's very far from old for 'normal' trees but I know nothing about dwarf trees, so I have to pass on that one! I might give them a reprieve and feed as advised. Could be worth it and if it doesn't work then I will know Thanks to those who made comments, especially Jake -- http://www.shop.helpforheroes.org.uk/ |
#9
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Fruit trees
On Sun, 11 Mar 2012 15:41:21 -0000, "Ophelia"
wrote: I would like to ask for some advice about my fruit trees, if I may? I have apple and plum trees in my garden; all dwarf types. The last few years we have been away working for most of the summer and in the last two years, in the autumn, the fruits have dropped before being fully formed and look scabby. They flowered very well. It looks like we might be away for most of this summer too, is there something I can use to prevent that happening? Some spray perhaps? Something I can do now? I would be grateful for any advice, because it is such a waste! Thank you for any help you may be able to give. I don't grow plums so can't comment on those but for apples, a lot of pea-sized fruits dropping early in the year is a sure sign of poor pollination - this may result from there being no pollinating tree nearby, even so-called self-pollinators will do a lot better if they have a "mate" which needs to be a different variety. There also need to be pollinating insects - a shortage of bees will result in poor pollination. Next stage is the so-called June drop. Trees naturally thin their crop out around this time but if they haven't got access to a balance of nutrients this drop becomes more serious. A mix of cloudy weather and low temperatures reduces photosynthesis and this starves the tree of carbohydrates. Round here, we had a wonderful early spring which degenerated in May/June and this caused a larger drop of 1-1.5 inch apples. From then on you're at the mercy of the weather and the nutrients available to the trees. If they go hungry, they will continue to thin out their crop as a natural survival tactic. If you've been away for most of the summer, then irregular watering is a likely cause as it doesn't normally rain the same amount every few days! IME, dwarf trees need more care than their larger cousins, perhaps because they have smaller root systems and are so more susceptible to low moisture/nutrient levels in the soil. The only thing I can suggest as a part solution is to make sure that the soil around the trunks of the trees is clear of grass and other plants for at least a foot away from the trunk. A liberal sprinkling of bone meal, raked into that soil area now will help; it you have foxes use something like Growmore instead. If you have apple scab, then it won't go away on its own and you need to tackle it on an ongoing basis. There are sprays available that will give some control but you won't be around to follow the fairly strict regime involved. Pruning out and destroying infected wood as soon as discovered is also essential as is destroying any infected leaves or fruits that fall. Cheers, Jake ======================================= Urgling happily from the dryer end of Swansea Bay. |
#10
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Fruit trees
"Jake" wrote in message ... I don't grow plums so can't comment on those but for apples, a lot of pea-sized fruits dropping early in the year is a sure sign of poor pollination - No these were not pea sized. Just about half the size they used to be. I haven't had any problems in previous years. Next stage is the so-called June drop. Trees naturally thin their crop out around this time but if they haven't got access to a balance of nutrients this drop becomes more serious. A mix of cloudy weather and low temperatures reduces photosynthesis and this starves the tree of carbohydrates. Round here, we had a wonderful early spring which degenerated in May/June and this caused a larger drop of 1-1.5 inch apples. Noted From then on you're at the mercy of the weather and the nutrients available to the trees. If they go hungry, they will continue to thin out their crop as a natural survival tactic. If you've been away for most of the summer, then irregular watering is a likely cause as it doesn't normally rain the same amount every few days! Understood but we are in Scotland and drought is not really a problem. IME, dwarf trees need more care than their larger cousins, Now that is what I wondered!!! Although, they have grown fine for around 8 years with no problem. perhaps because they have smaller root systems and are so more susceptible to low moisture/nutrient levels in the soil. The only thing I can suggest as a part solution is to make sure that the soil around the trunks of the trees is clear of grass and other plants for at least a foot away from the trunk. The soil around them is kept clear. A liberal sprinkling of bone meal, raked into that soil area now will help; it you have foxes use something like Growmore instead. No foxes but I am taking on board what you say about the feeding!!!! The past couple of years I haven't fed them so I think perhaps you have hit on the answer!! If you have apple scab, then it won't go away on its own and you need to tackle it on an ongoing basis. There are sprays available that will give some control but you won't be around to follow the fairly strict regime involved. Pruning out and destroying infected wood as soon as discovered is also essential as is destroying any infected leaves or fruits that fall. I pruned them hard last year and destroyed the wood I removed. They are fairly small trees ... would you suggest I cut them down and start again later when I am around more often? Many thanks Jake! You have given me a much better idea on how to deal with the problem Best O -- http://www.shop.helpforheroes.org.uk/ |
#11
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Fruit trees
* I pruned them hard last year and destroyed the wood I removed. *
They are fairly small trees ... would you suggest I cut them down and start again later when I am around more often? Many thanks Jake! *You have given me a much better idea on how to deal with the problem Best O --http://www.shop.helpforheroes.org.uk/ OK, a lot of ideas for you to think about, poor polination gives early drop of un fertilised fruit, drought will result in more falling fruit but I think your problem is to much fruit on the trees, thin the fruit hard just before you go away, removing all but the best. You will often find apple trees shedding fruit a few weeks before the fruit is ripeif there is to much for the tree to carry to term. Now regarding the tree that croped heavily then next year nothing, the poor thing is exausted and has to rest for a year, it is common fo fruit tree to crop in alternate years. Again when the tree is carrying a heavy crop thin it hard. Think of it like you running as fast as you can for a hundred yards or so, you then have to stop to get your breath back, but if you just jog along you can keep going. David @ the wet end of Swansea Bay. |
#12
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Fruit trees
"Dave Hill" wrote in message ... I pruned them hard last year and destroyed the wood I removed. They are fairly small trees ... would you suggest I cut them down and start again later when I am around more often? Many thanks Jake! You have given me a much better idea on how to deal with the problem Best O --http://www.shop.helpforheroes.org.uk/ OK, a lot of ideas for you to think about, poor polination gives early drop of un fertilised fruit, drought will result in more falling fruit but I think your problem is to much fruit on the trees, thin the fruit hard just before you go away, removing all but the best. You will often find apple trees shedding fruit a few weeks before the fruit is ripeif there is to much for the tree to carry to term. Now regarding the tree that croped heavily then next year nothing, the poor thing is exausted and has to rest for a year, it is common fo fruit tree to crop in alternate years. Again when the tree is carrying a heavy crop thin it hard. Think of it like you running as fast as you can for a hundred yards or so, you then have to stop to get your breath back, but if you just jog along you can keep going. David @ the wet end of Swansea Bay. I will indeed) Thanks, David) Ummm about the scab? -- http://www.shop.helpforheroes.org.uk/ |
#13
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You will frequently find that fruits trees shedding fruit a few weeks before the fruit is full-grown. if there is too a great deal for the tree to carry to period. Now about the tree that cropped heavily then next year zero, the poor thing is worn out and has to rest for a year, it is ordinary of outgrowth tree to crop in exchange years.
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