In article ,
Jeff Layman wrote:

See my reply to Charlie P. How can vacuuming twice a year be more
labour-intensive than the year-round maintenance that a lawn requires
(eg see http://www.lawnsmith.co.uk/novice/)? Add to the direct lawn
work the maintenance and service of the tools required for the lawn
work, and I can't see how grass is less work (and expense) than gravel,
chippings, astroturf, or even bark, for that matter.

I thought that you were a gardener? You need NOTHING like that
performance to maintain a perfectly functional grass path. Mowing
as needed is enough - and I do mean that, because the weeds that
get established also make perfectly good path plants. Probably
most of the grass paths in the country get a single pass of a
mower (which is quick) a dozen times a year, and no other attention.

And, if you think that vacuuming twice a year is adequate for a
gravel path, you are sadly deluded. If there is anything like
flower or small leaf fall or blown soil, it will need frequent
weedkilling and will turn into stony soil remarkably quickly.
Vaccuums and blowers work only on material that is on the surface
and lighter than the gravel. Dammit, my paved patio and concrete
drive need more attention than THAT!


Regards,
Nick Maclaren.

Over the years I've replaced mown grass by gravel, bark, paving, ponds, "meadow", perennials and shrubs. All of them take less effort to maintain than mown grass, and are a lot more enjoyable while I'm doing it.

On 06/05/2012 16:51, kay wrote:
;958000 Wrote:
In article ,
Jeff Layman lid wrote:-
-
Or, to step back a bit, why do you want to replace the grass with
something that is likely to require more maintenance?-

There is nothing that requires more maintenance than grass.-

Well, you are welcome to your opinion, but it is not shared by the
vast majority of gardening experts and most people who have tried
different coverings.


Over the years I've replaced mown grass by gravel, bark, paving, ponds,
"meadow", perennials and shrubs. All of them take less effort to
maintain than mown grass, and are a lot more enjoyable while I'm doing
it.

Sorry, Kay but I've been chastised on this matter by someone who
apparently knows better than both of us, it seems! Maybe we should just
keep the knowledge to ourselves, and let those who don't recognise that
grass is hard work allow the green stuff to keep them busy. :-)

--

Jeff

"Janet Tweedy" wrote in message
...

Before I launch into attempting to turn the grass between my hedge and
flower bed into a path, I felt I ought to find out what more experienced
DIYers recommended!

The hedge is hawthorn and about 8 foot high, the gap between hedge and bed
is 5 foot wide and about 60 foot long, currently grass.

Could I put a weed suppressant blanket down on top of grass (killed or
not) and then shovel bark or gravel on top or have I got to dig out the
path etc etc?

Of course i am hoping it's a matter of killing off the grass and laying
the weed blanket on top It would be an awful lot to dig.

Janet
--
Janet Tweedy

If it were me I would roll out the Membrane, use tanalised roof battens to
form the edges and fill in with a course Bark. (use short lengths of batten
as pegs to hold everthing in place)

I would not use chippings or gravel as weeds will be worse and it causes
problems when collecting hedge cuttings for shredding. Bark has the
advantage that should you want to move or alter things it is a lot easier to
lose than stones!


--
Charlie, Gardening in Cornwall
Holders of National Collections of Clematis viticella
and Lapageria rosea cvs
http://www.roselandhouse.co.uk

On 05/05/2012 19:19, Charlie Pridham wrote:

If it were me I would roll out the Membrane, use tanalised roof battens to
form the edges and fill in with a course Bark. (use short lengths of batten
as pegs to hold everthing in place)

I would not use chippings or gravel as weeds will be worse and it causes
problems when collecting hedge cuttings for shredding. Bark has the
advantage that should you want to move or alter things it is a lot easier to
lose than stones!

Over a dozen years ago we had a weedproof membrane and 2" layer of
granite chippings put down to replace the back and front lawns (I /hate/
lawns!). Weeds have never grown through, although over the years some
have grown on top of the chippings/WPM. These are very easily pulled
up. I have never had a need to resort to any persistent weedkillers to
prevent weed growth on the chippings - unlike the paviers which surround
the house where quite a few weeds germinate. Many leaves fall on the
chippings (mainly from an accursed sycamore over the road, which also
adds its seeds!), but I just wait for a few dry days and then vacuum
them up. I usually do this once in autumn and once in spring.

As I posted earlier, bark is fine in theory but the blackbirds fling it
everywhere, and it eventually breaks down into a fertile medium for weeds.

--

Jeff

"Janet Tweedy" wrote in message
...

Before I launch into attempting to turn the grass between my hedge and
flower bed into a path, I felt I ought to find out what more experienced
DIYers recommended!

The hedge is hawthorn and about 8 foot high, the gap between hedge and bed
is 5 foot wide and about 60 foot long, currently grass.

Could I put a weed suppressant blanket down on top of grass (killed or
not) and then shovel bark or gravel on top or have I got to dig out the
path etc etc?

Of course i am hoping it's a matter of killing off the grass and laying
the weed blanket on top It would be an awful lot to dig.


One thing that hasn't really been highlighted so far is the level of the
path in relation to the bed and the hedge roots.
If the grass path is level with our higher than the surrounding soil you
will either have to build a barrier down each side or lower the path if you
intend to use any lose material as your new path.

Whilst gravel may perform well in an open unshaded area well away from
trees, I think it is likely to get very clagged up very quickly next to a
hedge, especially come hedge trimming time.
The location may also be a problem for bark, and (noting your main
requirement for a drier walkway) bark may degenerate into a soggy mass if it
is in a very shaded area such as the lee of a hedge (don't know the
orientation of your hedge).

Have you considered inserting flags or irregular paving stones into the
current grass path so that you have steppping stones to give you a dryer
walkway without the major effort of ripping the whole thing up or
constructing barriers down the sides?
You can then maintain as you do now by occasional mowing with the mower
going right over the sunken paving.

Unless, of course, your main requirement is "not grass"

Cheers

Dave R

--
No plan survives contact with the enemy.
[Not even bunny]

Helmuth von Moltke the Elder

(\__/)
(='.'=)
(")_(")

Hi Janet, I've followed the replies with interest and now offer my views (formulated after many decades of laying such paths) I think the main consideration is your hawthorn hedge, come autumn, thats one hell of alot of leaves !! making chippings or any form of gravel hard to keep clean.
I'd go for bark chippings with a tanalised timber edge. Ok, you may need to remove the composted bark every 5 years and re-dress but said 'compost' can be used as a soil conditioner somewhere ! Yes its cheap to use chipped trimmings from a tree surgeon but be aware that these chippings do rot down very quickly being so fine. Its far better to use the more coarse (but also more expensive) proper bark chips, they will last much longer! Have a look in your area for your nearest 'greenwaste' company, mine also supplies very coarsely chipped wood which works out much cheaper than bagged bark.
regards lannerman.