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Firethorn pruning
I'm having the house re-pointed and have a couple of firethorns, pruned to about 3' wide, which I have nurtured so far to about 12' against the wall and I don't want to lose them. They have fairly straight central stems and I intend to prune them back as close to the stem as is reasonable so that I can then release the ties and carefully lay them back so as to provide access for the brickies. Anyone know how close I could reasonably go at this time of year without causing irrepairable damage?
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#2
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Firethorn pruning
On 13/07/2012 13:30, Justinthyme77 wrote:
I'm having the house re-pointed and have a couple of firethorns, pruned to about 3' wide, which I have nurtured so far to about 12' against the wall and I don't want to lose them. They have fairly straight central stems and I intend to prune them back as close to the stem as is reasonable so that I can then release the ties and carefully lay them back so as to provide access for the brickies. Anyone know how close I could reasonably go at this time of year without causing irrepairable damage? If you mean pyracantha then the brickies are going to love you. I have had prunings with inch long spines from that penetrate my thick boot soles. I doubt you could kill it even if chopped off at ground level. Mine has survived some serious abuse by unsympathetic industrial gardeners. It grew back again but took a few years to do so. It is a bit of a nuisance for being extremely sharp spined. Pruning hard probably means you will lose this winters fruit but that is all. This years bad weather may affect next years flowering anyway. -- Regards, Martin Brown |
#3
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Firethorn pruning
On Fri, 13 Jul 2012 16:41:39 +0100, Martin Brown
wrote: On 13/07/2012 13:30, Justinthyme77 wrote: I'm having the house re-pointed and have a couple of firethorns, pruned to about 3' wide, which I have nurtured so far to about 12' against the wall and I don't want to lose them. They have fairly straight central stems and I intend to prune them back as close to the stem as is reasonable so that I can then release the ties and carefully lay them back so as to provide access for the brickies. Anyone know how close I could reasonably go at this time of year without causing irrepairable damage? If you mean pyracantha then the brickies are going to love you. I have had prunings with inch long spines from that penetrate my thick boot soles. I doubt you could kill it even if chopped off at ground level. Mine has survived some serious abuse by unsympathetic industrial gardeners. It grew back again but took a few years to do so. It is a bit of a nuisance for being extremely sharp spined. Pruning hard probably means you will lose this winters fruit but that is all. This years bad weather may affect next years flowering anyway. I had to hack one back about 9 years ago for a similar reason. It is now just as big as it was before the chop though, for some reason, has never flowered/fruited as prolifically as before its lopping. I read somewhere a couple of years ago that once you start pruning pyracantha it never again flowers as well though why this should be escapes me. Cheers, Jake ======================================= Urgling from the East End of Swansea Bay where sometimes it's raining and sometimes it's not. |
#4
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Firethorn pruning
On 13/07/2012 17:04, Sacha wrote:
On 2012-07-13 16:55:03 +0100, Jake said: On Fri, 13 Jul 2012 16:41:39 +0100, Martin Brown wrote: On 13/07/2012 13:30, Justinthyme77 wrote: I'm having the house re-pointed and have a couple of firethorns, pruned to about 3' wide, which I have nurtured so far to about 12' against the wall and I don't want to lose them. They have fairly straight central stems and I intend to prune them back as close to the stem as is reasonable so that I can then release the ties and carefully lay them back so as to provide access for the brickies. Anyone know how close I could reasonably go at this time of year without causing irrepairable damage? If you mean pyracantha then the brickies are going to love you. I have had prunings with inch long spines from that penetrate my thick boot soles. I doubt you could kill it even if chopped off at ground level. Mine has survived some serious abuse by unsympathetic industrial gardeners. It grew back again but took a few years to do so. It is a bit of a nuisance for being extremely sharp spined. Pruning hard probably means you will lose this winters fruit but that is all. This years bad weather may affect next years flowering anyway. I had to hack one back about 9 years ago for a similar reason. It is now just as big as it was before the chop though, for some reason, has never flowered/fruited as prolifically as before its lopping. I read somewhere a couple of years ago that once you start pruning pyracantha it never again flowers as well though why this should be escapes me. I have a feeling there is a trick to pruning it early in the season so that new wood has time to mature and be fruit bearing the following year. If you get it wrong you can easily cut off the would be flowering wood. It tends to respond to hard pruning by lots of vegetative growth and you can get locked into a pruning cycle that decreases flowering. Also for me it tends not to flower so well on the north facing side which suggests that sun ripening of the wood is important. I could do with a few more pretty and stock proof hedging materials. I have pyracantha, berberis, hawthorn and blackthorn. The farm now has rather smaller but more frisky beef cattle and they smashed the fence and ate half my raspberries last week. Bramble is not up to the task they ate that to get to the raspberries! They also ate most of the plants on the VH patio the week before after someone left the field gate on the latch. Cows tongues are remarkably agile and can open it! They last broke in there during the general election to make a political statement about the quality of the candidates. One thought occurs to me - the mortar isn't going to do it much good if it drops onto the ground and some is bound to do so. It would be worth covering the roots with a plastic sheet to prevent that. I'd be more inclined to use heavy sacking to protect the brickies from the pyracantha! I expect lime mortar would burn a few leaves but do little more damage than that. Never really tested it though. -- Regards, Martin Brown |
#5
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Firethorn pruning
In article , Justinthyme77
writes 'm having the house re-pointed and have a couple of firethorns, pruned to about 3' wide, which I have nurtured so far to about 12' against the wall and I don't want to lose them. They have fairly straight central stems and I intend to prune them back as close to the stem as is reasonable so that I can then release the ties and carefully lay them back so as to provide access for the brickies. Anyone know how close I could reasonably go at this time of year without causing irrepairable damage? Very close! I pruned mine back to about 3 inches from the soil one year as it had two large stems completely in the wrong direction. It came back and i now prune to within a joint of the flowers, then again with the berries and closer still if there aren't any. Also take off any that are growing backwards against the wall or they'll push the whole thing off the wall. -- Janet Tweedy |
#6
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Firethorn pruning
In article , Martin Brown
writes I have a feeling there is a trick to pruning it early in the season so that new wood has time to mature and be fruit bearing the following year. If you get it wrong you can easily cut off the would be flowering wood. It tends to respond to hard pruning by lots of vegetative growth and you can get locked into a pruning cycle that decreases flowering. Also for me it tends not to flower so well on the north facing side which suggests that sun ripening of the wood is important. It flowers on wood it makes that year so you can hack it back after the berries have gone if you want, I then let it flower and cut back to all the flowers and if there's none on a branch it gets really pruned. Then during the year i cut back to two buds from main branches or stems. When the berries come I cut back to the berries. It keeps the shrub close against the wall and if you cut off anything going towards the wall it helps it stay tight to the brickwork. Don't let it go behind trellis or drainpipes as it will get bigger and bigger and eventually push pipes or trellis from the wall! -- Janet Tweedy |
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