I've been growing veggies from seed for well over 40 years, so
never really bother to read the instructions on the seed
packets (except perhaps for a guide to the depth of planting).
However idly looking through some this week, I noticed that I
am supposed to "pre-water" the soil - Why???

I've always preferred to plant in dryish soil, when you can
hand close and firm the row and even move some of the seed that
has fallen out of line in necessay. Giving the soil a good
watering after palnting and firming if rain is not immenent.

Is there any science in this wet soil method?

--
Roger T

700 ft up in Mid-Wales

On 20/04/2014 17:23, Roger Tonkin wrote:
I've been growing veggies from seed for well over 40 years, so
never really bother to read the instructions on the seed
packets (except perhaps for a guide to the depth of planting).
However idly looking through some this week, I noticed that I
am supposed to "pre-water" the soil - Why???

I've always preferred to plant in dryish soil, when you can
hand close and firm the row and even move some of the seed that
has fallen out of line in necessay. Giving the soil a good
watering after palnting and firming if rain is not immenent.

Is there any science in this wet soil method?




I'm not sure if you'd call it science, rather a practical approach.
Watering the seed tray after placing your seed can have the effect of
washing all the seed into crowded patches of seed, rather than in the
neat rows you had laid them. It is then very difficult to separate
them, so many seeds germinate in one area, often failing due to
overcrowding.

I often sow onto wet compost. I may lightly cover the seeds with a
little dry compost if required. So far I haven't had a problem.

I have tried sowing onto dry compost, then plunging the trays in water
to soak right through so the seeds are wetted, but even this can cause
some seeds to 'swim' away from their allotted place.

If you're having success with your existing dry soil method, then there
is no need to change.
--
Spider.
On high ground in SE London
gardening on heavy clay

In article ,
Spider wrote:
On 20/04/2014 17:23, Roger Tonkin wrote:

I've been growing veggies from seed for well over 40 years, so
never really bother to read the instructions on the seed
packets (except perhaps for a guide to the depth of planting).
However idly looking through some this week, I noticed that I
am supposed to "pre-water" the soil - Why???

I've always preferred to plant in dryish soil, when you can
hand close and firm the row and even move some of the seed that
has fallen out of line in necessay. Giving the soil a good
watering after palnting and firming if rain is not immenent.

Is there any science in this wet soil method?

I'm not sure if you'd call it science, rather a practical approach.
Watering the seed tray after placing your seed can have the effect of
washing all the seed into crowded patches of seed, rather than in the
neat rows you had laid them. It is then very difficult to separate
them, so many seeds germinate in one area, often failing due to
overcrowding.

Er, don't you use a suitably fine rose on your watering can?
I accept that does apply for surface- and near-surface-sown seeds,
but it doesn't for anything that is best 1/2" or more. And, in
light soils, that's about the minimum depth, because the top can
dessicate in a day.

I often sow onto wet compost. I may lightly cover the seeds with a
little dry compost if required. So far I haven't had a problem.

I do the same as Roger, except in two cases. If the soil is bone
dry, it won't accept water. And for the aforementioned surface-sown
seeds.

I have tried sowing onto dry compost, then plunging the trays in water
to soak right through so the seeds are wetted, but even this can cause
some seeds to 'swim' away from their allotted place.

So can rain!

If you're having success with your existing dry soil method, then there
is no need to change.

As always, the extremes are usually inferior, but there is a large
area in the middle where it makes very little difference!


Regards,
Nick Maclaren.

"Nick Maclaren" wrote
Spider wrote:
Roger Tonkin wrote:

I've been growing veggies from seed for well over 40 years, so
never really bother to read the instructions on the seed
packets (except perhaps for a guide to the depth of planting).
However idly looking through some this week, I noticed that I
am supposed to "pre-water" the soil - Why???

I've always preferred to plant in dryish soil, when you can
hand close and firm the row and even move some of the seed that
has fallen out of line in necessay. Giving the soil a good
watering after palnting and firming if rain is not immenent.

Is there any science in this wet soil method?

I'm not sure if you'd call it science, rather a practical approach.
Watering the seed tray after placing your seed can have the effect of
washing all the seed into crowded patches of seed, rather than in the
neat rows you had laid them. It is then very difficult to separate
them, so many seeds germinate in one area, often failing due to
overcrowding.

Er, don't you use a suitably fine rose on your watering can?
I accept that does apply for surface- and near-surface-sown seeds,
but it doesn't for anything that is best 1/2" or more. And, in
light soils, that's about the minimum depth, because the top can
dessicate in a day.

I often sow onto wet compost. I may lightly cover the seeds with a
little dry compost if required. So far I haven't had a problem.

I do the same as Roger, except in two cases. If the soil is bone
dry, it won't accept water. And for the aforementioned surface-sown
seeds.

I have tried sowing onto dry compost, then plunging the trays in water
to soak right through so the seeds are wetted, but even this can cause
some seeds to 'swim' away from their allotted place.

So can rain!

If you're having success with your existing dry soil method, then there
is no need to change.

As always, the extremes are usually inferior, but there is a large
area in the middle where it makes very little difference!



If growing in seed trays etc I use damp compost straight from the bag and do
not wet it more, but when planting straight into soil on the allotment then
I water the bottom of the drill before sowing the seed, then cover with the
soil and water again with a fine rose.
--
Regards. Bob Hobden.
Posted to this Newsgroup from the W of London, UK

On 2014-04-20 17:45:28 +0000, Spider said:

On 20/04/2014 17:23, Roger Tonkin wrote:
I've been growing veggies from seed for well over 40 years, so
never really bother to read the instructions on the seed
packets (except perhaps for a guide to the depth of planting).
However idly looking through some this week, I noticed that I
am supposed to "pre-water" the soil - Why???

I've always preferred to plant in dryish soil, when you can
hand close and firm the row and even move some of the seed that
has fallen out of line in necessay. Giving the soil a good
watering after palnting and firming if rain is not immenent.

Is there any science in this wet soil method?




I'm not sure if you'd call it science, rather a practical approach.
Watering the seed tray after placing your seed can have the effect of
washing all the seed into crowded patches of seed, rather than in the
neat rows you had laid them. It is then very difficult to separate
them, so many seeds germinate in one area, often failing due to
overcrowding.

I often sow onto wet compost. I may lightly cover the seeds with a
little dry compost if required. So far I haven't had a problem.

I have tried sowing onto dry compost, then plunging the trays in water
to soak right through so the seeds are wetted, but even this can cause
some seeds to 'swim' away from their allotted place.

If you're having success with your existing dry soil method, then there
is no need to change.

For the reasons you give, Ray always puts seeds onto wet compost. When
he's using those little individual plugs, he puts them in a shallow
tray of water and leaves them to soak it up. Trays of compost are
watered before sowing. As you say, if you water after sowing, even if
with a fine rose, the seeds can get pushed about into little clumps.
When you're dealing with some seeds which are virtually dust particle
size, it's much easier to get them in the right place if the compost is
damp.
--

Sacha
www.hillhousenursery.com
South Devon
www.helpforheroes.org.uk

On 21/04/2014 09:50, Sacha wrote:
On 2014-04-20 17:45:28 +0000, Spider said:

On 20/04/2014 17:23, Roger Tonkin wrote:
I've been growing veggies from seed for well over 40 years, so
never really bother to read the instructions on the seed
packets (except perhaps for a guide to the depth of planting).
However idly looking through some this week, I noticed that I
am supposed to "pre-water" the soil - Why???

I've always preferred to plant in dryish soil, when you can
hand close and firm the row and even move some of the seed that
has fallen out of line in necessay. Giving the soil a good
watering after palnting and firming if rain is not immenent.

Is there any science in this wet soil method?




I'm not sure if you'd call it science, rather a practical approach.
Watering the seed tray after placing your seed can have the effect of
washing all the seed into crowded patches of seed, rather than in the
neat rows you had laid them. It is then very difficult to separate
them, so many seeds germinate in one area, often failing due to
overcrowding.

I often sow onto wet compost. I may lightly cover the seeds with a
little dry compost if required. So far I haven't had a problem.

I have tried sowing onto dry compost, then plunging the trays in water
to soak right through so the seeds are wetted, but even this can cause
some seeds to 'swim' away from their allotted place.

If you're having success with your existing dry soil method, then
there is no need to change.

For the reasons you give, Ray always puts seeds onto wet compost. When
he's using those little individual plugs, he puts them in a shallow tray
of water and leaves them to soak it up. Trays of compost are watered
before sowing. As you say, if you water after sowing, even if with a
fine rose, the seeds can get pushed about into little clumps. When
you're dealing with some seeds which are virtually dust particle size,
it's much easier to get them in the right place if the compost is damp.

When I am sowing outside such things as peas and beans, I open the
drill, sow the seed and cover them with soil, tamp it down with the back
of the rake then water, then I rake a bit of dry soil over the top to
cut down the water loss from evaporation.
I wonder how many people have a Haws watering can. The rose can either
point down or up, I was always taught that when watering seeds and
seedlings with it you had the rose facing up so the water was more
gentle than having it facing down which gives a fierce blast of water.
David @ an almost sunny but breezy side of Swansea Bay.

On 2014-04-21 09:02:21 +0000, David Hill said:

On 21/04/2014 09:50, Sacha wrote:
On 2014-04-20 17:45:28 +0000, Spider said:

On 20/04/2014 17:23, Roger Tonkin wrote:
I've been growing veggies from seed for well over 40 years, so
never really bother to read the instructions on the seed
packets (except perhaps for a guide to the depth of planting).
However idly looking through some this week, I noticed that I
am supposed to "pre-water" the soil - Why???

I've always preferred to plant in dryish soil, when you can
hand close and firm the row and even move some of the seed that
has fallen out of line in necessay. Giving the soil a good
watering after palnting and firming if rain is not immenent.

Is there any science in this wet soil method?




I'm not sure if you'd call it science, rather a practical approach.
Watering the seed tray after placing your seed can have the effect of
washing all the seed into crowded patches of seed, rather than in the
neat rows you had laid them. It is then very difficult to separate
them, so many seeds germinate in one area, often failing due to
overcrowding.

I often sow onto wet compost. I may lightly cover the seeds with a
little dry compost if required. So far I haven't had a problem.

I have tried sowing onto dry compost, then plunging the trays in water
to soak right through so the seeds are wetted, but even this can cause
some seeds to 'swim' away from their allotted place.

If you're having success with your existing dry soil method, then
there is no need to change.

For the reasons you give, Ray always puts seeds onto wet compost. When
he's using those little individual plugs, he puts them in a shallow tray
of water and leaves them to soak it up. Trays of compost are watered
before sowing. As you say, if you water after sowing, even if with a
fine rose, the seeds can get pushed about into little clumps. When
you're dealing with some seeds which are virtually dust particle size,
it's much easier to get them in the right place if the compost is damp.

When I am sowing outside such things as peas and beans, I open the
drill, sow the seed and cover them with soil, tamp it down with the
back of the rake then water, then I rake a bit of dry soil over the top
to cut down the water loss from evaporation.
I wonder how many people have a Haws watering can. The rose can either
point down or up, I was always taught that when watering seeds and
seedlings with it you had the rose facing up so the water was more
gentle than having it facing down which gives a fierce blast of water.
David @ an almost sunny but breezy side of Swansea Bay.

How well I remember my grandfather doing just that with the drills and
with the watering can! That little tip about having the rose pointing
upwards is such a useful one!
--

Sacha
www.hillhousenursery.com
South Devon
www.helpforheroes.org.uk