I am mean that lightweight double-skinned stuff which can be cut with
a pocket knife. It has an overall thickness of about 5 or 6 mm. It
is translucent, but not transparent.
Which urgler would like to report on its usefulness for making
"rectangular cloches", or small portable frames?
What does one use for gluing two pieces together?

Franz

Franz Heymann wrote:
:: I am mean that lightweight double-skinned stuff which can be cut
:: with a pocket knife. It has an overall thickness of about 5 or 6
:: mm. It is translucent, but not transparent.
:: Which urgler would like to report on its usefulness for making
:: "rectangular cloches", or small portable frames?
:: What does one use for gluing two pieces together?
::
:: Franz

I've built a complete greenhouse out of it and its sturdy stuff (the thicker
stuff used for conservatory rooves)....you can't really glue it together as
it's hollow, but you can use 1X1 timber at the corners and use small screws
to hold it in place, if it's the really thin stuff, you can score it with a
knife but not cut it right through, and bend it at ninety degrees, using a
staple gun to affix it to the corner struts.


HTH

In message , Franz Heymann
writes
I am mean that lightweight double-skinned stuff which can be cut with
a pocket knife. It has an overall thickness of about 5 or 6 mm. It
is translucent, but not transparent.

Some grades are almost transparent. And if you want it to stay that way
be sure to assemble it with the UV stabilised side facing outwards.

Which urgler would like to report on its usefulness for making
"rectangular cloches", or small portable frames?

I have one outside. Two sheets clamped on a wooden frame. Actually it is
made from the 1cm thick grade intended for conservatories from my old
greenhouse. The 6mm stuff is a bit weak to be self supporting for large
cloches. The only thing to watch is if the wind gets under it.

What does one use for gluing two pieces together?

You don't glue it reliably with any strength. But you can bolt it to a
frame or to itself with suitable plastic washers to spread the load.
Clear silicone rubber sealant can be useful for weather proofing.

The 6mm grade you mention is ideal for small opening roof vents on a
greenhouse since it is indestructible if the wind grabs hold of it
(unlike glass).

I intend to build my next greenhouse entirely out of twinwall
polycarbonate.

Regards,
--
Martin Brown

In article ,
Franz Heymann wrote:
I am mean that lightweight double-skinned stuff which can be cut with
a pocket knife. It has an overall thickness of about 5 or 6 mm. It
is translucent, but not transparent.
Which urgler would like to report on its usefulness for making
"rectangular cloches", or small portable frames?
What does one use for gluing two pieces together?

My daughter who knows about such things suggests a silicone adhesive
(i.e. the gooey things).


Regards,
Nick Maclaren.

There is a lovely old feller who makes portable frames from that very
material. He made mine by cutting two wooden side ends exactly the same,
sloping from back to front. The wooden back end was much higher than the
front. Two struts were added across the top for support and stability. The
polycarb sheet consisted of four planks and these could be removed when
plants decided to shoot up high in any area you choose.. Because they were
translucent, the seedlings were warm and protected from the sun and cuttings
could not fail to root. When it rained, the poly took the shock and
diffused the water directly to the plants. I never remove the planks to
water, just aim the spray over the whole frame. It is the best frame I have
ever used. The old guy collected the scrap plastic from a local plastics
Co.
"Phil L" wrote in message
...
Franz Heymann wrote:
:: I am mean that lightweight double-skinned stuff which can be cut
:: with a pocket knife. It has an overall thickness of about 5 or 6
:: mm. It is translucent, but not transparent.
:: Which urgler would like to report on its usefulness for making
:: "rectangular cloches", or small portable frames?
:: What does one use for gluing two pieces together?
::
:: Franz

I've built a complete greenhouse out of it and its sturdy stuff (the
thicker
stuff used for conservatory rooves)....you can't really glue it together
as
it's hollow, but you can use 1X1 timber at the corners and use small
screws
to hold it in place, if it's the really thin stuff, you can score it with
a
knife but not cut it right through, and bend it at ninety degrees, using a
staple gun to affix it to the corner struts.


HTH

"Nick Maclaren" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Franz Heymann wrote:
I am mean that lightweight double-skinned stuff which can be cut
with
a pocket knife. It has an overall thickness of about 5 or 6 mm.
It
is translucent, but not transparent.
Which urgler would like to report on its usefulness for making
"rectangular cloches", or small portable frames?
What does one use for gluing two pieces together?

My daughter who knows about such things suggests a silicone adhesive
(i.e. the gooey things).

Great minds think alike.
Just prior to my original query, I made a tentative joint by applying
a fillet of that transparent silicone sealant which is used to make
fish tank joints.
It looks as if it will work. Only time will tell if it will actually
stand up to the weather and normal usage.

Franz

"Roz Lacey" wrote in message
...
"Phil L" wrote in message
...
Franz Heymann wrote:
:: I am mean that lightweight double-skinned stuff which can be
cut
:: with a pocket knife. It has an overall thickness of about 5 or
6
:: mm. It is translucent, but not transparent.
:: Which urgler would like to report on its usefulness for making
:: "rectangular cloches", or small portable frames?
:: What does one use for gluing two pieces together?
::
:: Franz

I've built a complete greenhouse out of it and its sturdy stuff
(the
thicker
stuff used for conservatory rooves)....you can't really glue it
together
as
it's hollow, but you can use 1X1 timber at the corners and use
small
screws
to hold it in place, if it's the really thin stuff, you can score
it with
a
knife but not cut it right through, and bend it at ninety degrees,
using a
staple gun to affix it to the corner struts.

There is a lovely old feller who makes portable frames from that
very
material. He made mine by cutting two wooden side ends exactly the
same,
sloping from back to front. The wooden back end was much higher
than the
front. Two struts were added across the top for support and
stability. The
polycarb sheet consisted of four planks and these could be removed
when
plants decided to shoot up high in any area you choose.. Because
they were
translucent, the seedlings were warm and protected from the sun and
cuttings
could not fail to root. When it rained, the poly took the shock and
diffused the water directly to the plants. I never remove the
planks to
water, just aim the spray over the whole frame. It is the best
frame I have
ever used. The old guy collected the scrap plastic from a local
plastics
Co.

Thanks. Roz, for the information. I shall build myself some frames
out of this material in time for the winter. I propose not to use any
wood, but to make sides and top of polycarbonate for maximum sunlight
trapping.

Franz

"Franz Heymann" wrote in message
...
I am mean that lightweight double-skinned stuff which can be cut with
a pocket knife. It has an overall thickness of about 5 or 6 mm. It
is translucent, but not transparent.
Which urgler would like to report on its usefulness for making
"rectangular cloches", or small portable frames?
What does one use for gluing two pieces together?

Franz


The solvent glue that plumbers use for plastic drainage pipes is excellent
for sticking all kinds of plastic together fast

Band Q do it in cans and tubes .......but you have to ask for it .....cos
its kept under lock and key

"Martin Brown" wrote in message
...
In message , Franz Heymann
writes
I am mean that lightweight double-skinned stuff which can be cut
with
a pocket knife. It has an overall thickness of about 5 or 6 mm.
It
is translucent, but not transparent.

Some grades are almost transparent. And if you want it to stay that
way
be sure to assemble it with the UV stabilised side facing outwards.

Which urgler would like to report on its usefulness for making
"rectangular cloches", or small portable frames?

I have one outside. Two sheets clamped on a wooden frame. Actually
it is
made from the 1cm thick grade intended for conservatories from my
old
greenhouse. The 6mm stuff is a bit weak to be self supporting for
large
cloches. The only thing to watch is if the wind gets under it.

Actually I have one frame constructed by using the 1 cm transparent
stuff. It is made proof against being lifted by the wind by having
large corner gussets at ground level, with full pots always standing
on them. It has not blown over in 15 years. Unfortunately there is
now so much algal growth inside the hollows that is losing a lot of
light.

What does one use for gluing two pieces together?

You don't glue it reliably with any strength. But you can bolt it to
a
frame or to itself with suitable plastic washers to spread the load.
Clear silicone rubber sealant can be useful for weather proofing.

Silicone fishtank sealant sticks to glass like the proverbial shit to
a blanket, and makes a very strong structure. I now have a few trial
joints under test, using that stuff and the 6 mm polycarbonate.

I do have one small large cloche made entirely of this material, with
the corners sewn together using nylon string and a series of drilled
holes in the material. It works fine, but making it is an
excruciatingly tedious procedure. The finished object is pegged on to
the soil with stout wire stakes.

The 6mm grade you mention is ideal for small opening roof vents on a
greenhouse since it is indestructible if the wind grabs hold of it
(unlike glass).

I intend to build my next greenhouse entirely out of twinwall
polycarbonate.

I suspect that you will find it to be superior to a glass house.
Double glazing and all that...

Franz

Franz

"nambucca" wrote in message
...

"Franz Heymann" wrote in message
...
I am mean that lightweight double-skinned stuff which can be cut
with
a pocket knife. It has an overall thickness of about 5 or 6 mm.
It
is translucent, but not transparent.
Which urgler would like to report on its usefulness for making
"rectangular cloches", or small portable frames?
What does one use for gluing two pieces together?

Franz


The solvent glue that plumbers use for plastic drainage pipes is
excellent
for sticking all kinds of plastic together fast

Band Q do it in cans and tubes .......but you have to ask for it
......cos
its kept under lock and key

Why do they have to keep it under lock and key?

Thanks for the information.

Franz

Martin Brown wrote in message ...
In message , Franz Heymann
writes
I am mean that lightweight double-skinned stuff which can be cut with
a pocket knife. It has an overall thickness of about 5 or 6 mm. It
is translucent, but not transparent.

Some grades are almost transparent. And if you want it to stay that way
be sure to assemble it with the UV stabilised side facing outwards.

Which urgler would like to report on its usefulness for making
"rectangular cloches", or small portable frames?

I have one outside. Two sheets clamped on a wooden frame. Actually it is
made from the 1cm thick grade intended for conservatories from my old
greenhouse. The 6mm stuff is a bit weak to be self supporting for large
cloches. The only thing to watch is if the wind gets under it.

What does one use for gluing two pieces together?

You don't glue it reliably with any strength. But you can bolt it to a
frame or to itself with suitable plastic washers to spread the load.
Clear silicone rubber sealant can be useful for weather proofing.

The 6mm grade you mention is ideal for small opening roof vents on a
greenhouse since it is indestructible if the wind grabs hold of it
(unlike glass).

I intend to build my next greenhouse entirely out of twinwall
polycarbonate.

Doesn't at least one of the companies (Transatlantic Plastics?
Twinwall itself?) offer slot-in connecting strips for both in-line and
right-angled joints?

It's prudent to drill bolt- or screw-holes over size to avoid
cracking. For the same reason, into wood I'd use brass, or the
fastenings recommended by the makers. Washers cut from old wellies?

Mike.

In message , Franz Heymann
writes

"nambucca" wrote in message
...

"Franz Heymann" wrote in message
...
Which urgler would like to report on its usefulness for making
"rectangular cloches", or small portable frames?
What does one use for gluing two pieces together?

The solvent glue that plumbers use for plastic drainage pipes is
excellent
for sticking all kinds of plastic together fast

Band Q do it in cans and tubes .......but you have to ask for it
.....cos
its kept under lock and key

Why do they have to keep it under lock and key?

The solvent abuse problem. Amusingly they now keep the new *improved*
"solvent free" Evo-stick in the solvents cupboard too. Completely
useless as a glue, but it is now genuinely a solvent free impact
adhesive.

BTW Bolting it to 5cm timber at the corners is as good a way as any of
turning flat sheet into cloches. Do it right with hinges and it will
fold flat when not required.

Regards,
--
Martin Brown

"Franz Heymann" wrote in message
...

"nambucca" wrote in message
...

"Franz Heymann" wrote in message
...
The solvent glue that plumbers use for plastic drainage pipes is
excellent
for sticking all kinds of plastic together fast

Band Q do it in cans and tubes .......but you have to ask for it
.....cos
its kept under lock and key

Why do they have to keep it under lock and key?

Thanks for the information.

Franz


I suspect because the gene pool now seems to have thrown up a lot of idiots
who derive their kicks from sniffing solvent fumes. (they should try
standing next to a show stand of scented daffs, much they same effect!)

--
Charlie, gardening in Cornwall.
http://www.roselandhouse.co.uk
Holders of National Plant Collection of Clematis viticella (cvs)

"Franz Heymann" wrote in message ...
I am mean that lightweight double-skinned stuff which can be cut with
a pocket knife. It has an overall thickness of about 5 or 6 mm. It
is translucent, but not transparent.
Which urgler would like to report on its usefulness for making
"rectangular cloches", or small portable frames?
What does one use for gluing two pieces together?

Plain single sheet polycarbonate can be bent like steel, and drilled
and bolted to make a box or ridgetop shape.

the box section stuff would have to be mitred and glued, ordinary
contact adhesive might do the job for a while, or specialist stuff
like:
Evo-Tech TU1908, or Extru-Fix. Or you could make a lightweight wooden
frame and screw the polycarbonate to it.

I'm not sure about translucent frames being good enough for forcing
plants at the start of the year.

"Robert E A Harvey" wrote in message
om...
"Franz Heymann" wrote in message
...
I am mean that lightweight double-skinned stuff which can be cut
with
a pocket knife. It has an overall thickness of about 5 or 6 mm.
It
is translucent, but not transparent.
Which urgler would like to report on its usefulness for making
"rectangular cloches", or small portable frames?
What does one use for gluing two pieces together?

Plain single sheet polycarbonate can be bent like steel, and drilled
and bolted to make a box or ridgetop shape.

the box section stuff would have to be mitred and glued, ordinary
contact adhesive might do the job for a while, or specialist stuff
like:
Evo-Tech TU1908, or Extru-Fix. Or you could make a lightweight
wooden
frame and screw the polycarbonate to it.

All very useful information to bear in mind.

I'm not sure about translucent frames being good enough for forcing
plants at the start of the year.

I may be wrong, but I am under the impression that the translucent
material does not necessarily absorb a significant fraction of the
incident light, but that it simply scatters it. If I am right, there
should be no problem about forcing plants early in the season.

Franz