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#1
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supporting new fruit trees
This weekend I bought and planted four short fruit trees. The trunks are at
the moment about 75 cms long before branching starts. Should'nt the stakes just be a bit longer than the trunk? (I am worried about damaging the branches as they chafe against the stake.) The tree-seller (reputable) tried to sell me 2 meter stakes but I didn't feel that was right. What's the best thing to do? Robert |
#2
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supporting new fruit trees
This weekend I bought and planted four short fruit trees. The trunks are at
the moment about 75 cms long before branching starts. Should'nt the stakes just be a bit longer than the trunk? (I am worried about damaging the branches as they chafe against the stake.) The tree-seller (reputable) tried to sell me 2 meter stakes but I didn't feel that was right. What's the best thing to do? Robert It's not clear from what you've said exactly how large/tall the trees are, but I'll try to give you some general advice that will suit most, if not all circumstances/situations. It's best to stake trees using a stake driven in at about 45 degrees so that it avoids the tree roots. The tree trunk should then be tied to the stake in such a way as to avoid chaffing. This can be done by wraping the tie round the stake, then crossing the tie over before securing the tie around the trunk. In essence you're creating a figure of eight with the stake in one circle of the eight, and the tree trunk in the other. The crossing point of the tie acts as a buffer between the tree and stake. Another method is to use two or more stakes, though from what I can guess this probably isn't suitable for your trees, but applies to larger ones. The stakes are driven into the ground some way from the tree's root-ball so as to avoid any damage. Ties are then attached to the tree, usually with rubber (or a similar material) used to prevent the tie from cutting into the tree trunk. Imagine a strong wire cable with a loop going around the trunk but with the loop surrounded by a short length of rubber/plastic hosepipe and you have the right idea. The main problem with staking trees is that the trees actually grow weaker with staking. They 'come to rely on the stakes for support' (though not in any emotional sense you understand). Basically, tree trunks become stronger through flexing in the wind. If you're going to stake trees, it's best to stake them in such a way that the tie you use to secure them to the stake(s) allows some movement so that the tree will grow a strong trunk. It will save a whole load of heartache later on. Old stockings/tights are a good material to use, and the way most women seem to go through them there should be a good supply around somewhere just waiting to be used. I hope this is helpful and that I haven't made any stupid mistakes, left anything obvious out, or have made too many (if any) spelling mistakes. Best of luck with the trees! Dave. |
#3
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supporting new fruit trees
On Mon, 25 Nov 2002 20:40:36 +0000, DaveDay34 wrote:
This weekend I bought and planted four short fruit trees. The trunks are at the moment about 75 cms long before branching starts. Should'nt the stakes just be a bit longer than the trunk? (I am worried about damaging the branches as they chafe against the stake.) The tree-seller (reputable) tried to sell me 2 meter stakes but I didn't feel that was right. What's the best thing to do? Robert It's not clear from what you've said exactly how large/tall the trees are, but I'll try to give you some general advice that will suit most, if not all circumstances/situations. Robert, Further to Dave's excellent general advice, I'd just like to add if you have bought fruit trees on dwarfing or very dwarfing root stock, they will need a traditional vertical stake. The height of this stake should be the height of the main stem, to or just a smidge below / above the place where all the branches start coming out. If the branches are widely spaced around the trunk, you may be able to get a longer stake in. Don't forget you need to bury approx 1 - 2 ft / 1/3rd of its general length of the stake so as to give it good support so it can support the tree! BTW, it is nearly always easiest to dig the hole, knock the stake in, and *then* plant the tree - it saves breaking roots and disturbing the tree later. Don't forget to water your trees in well, and keep doing so while they establish (though don't let them freeze!) - and water generously next spring and summer. HTH, Sarah (NB - I planted new fruit trees last autumn) |
#4
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supporting new fruit trees
Thank you Dave and Sarah, you seem to confirm my misgivings: that a long
stake, although often spoken about and shown in books, is not what is needed. The reason for the stake I thought was to keep the roots undisturbed while the tree "takes"; what it should not do is damage the branches (this was my concern). Thus short, sturdy, deep in the ground and carefully banded to the tree's trunk. I planted the trees exactly as Sarah recommended - very easy, even on your own. BTW The trees are dwarf, about 85 cms trunks and a bit over 2 meters overall in height. Robert "Sarah Dale" wrote in message news On Mon, 25 Nov 2002 20:40:36 +0000, DaveDay34 wrote: This weekend I bought and planted four short fruit trees. The trunks are at the moment about 75 cms long before branching starts. Should'nt the stakes just be a bit longer than the trunk? (I am worried about damaging the branches as they chafe against the stake.) The tree-seller (reputable) tried to sell me 2 meter stakes but I didn't feel that was right. What's the best thing to do? Robert It's not clear from what you've said exactly how large/tall the trees are, but I'll try to give you some general advice that will suit most, if not all circumstances/situations. Robert, Further to Dave's excellent general advice, I'd just like to add if you have bought fruit trees on dwarfing or very dwarfing root stock, they will need a traditional vertical stake. The height of this stake should be the height of the main stem, to or just a smidge below / above the place where all the branches start coming out. If the branches are widely spaced around the trunk, you may be able to get a longer stake in. Don't forget you need to bury approx 1 - 2 ft / 1/3rd of its general length of the stake so as to give it good support so it can support the tree! BTW, it is nearly always easiest to dig the hole, knock the stake in, and *then* plant the tree - it saves breaking roots and disturbing the tree later. Don't forget to water your trees in well, and keep doing so while they establish (though don't let them freeze!) - and water generously next spring and summer. HTH, Sarah (NB - I planted new fruit trees last autumn) |
#5
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supporting new fruit trees
In message , Robert Simpson
writes Thank you Dave and Sarah, you seem to confirm my misgivings: that a long stake, although often spoken about and shown in books, is not what is needed. Indeed, commonsense indicates that any length of stake above the point where the tree is or will be tied to serves no purpose at all anyway. -- Chris French and Helen Johnson, Leeds urg Suppliers and References FAQ: http://www.familyfrench.co.uk/garden/urgfaq/index.html |
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