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#1
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Climber for wall
I would like tips on a good plant that will help to cover a wall. However, I
don't want to use an ivy because of the associate risks. I am thinking of using a trellis, but don't want a plant that uses 'suckers' to cling to the wall itself. I would like a leafy evergreen if possible. Any suggestions? Alex |
#2
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In article ,
Alex Woodward wrote: I would like tips on a good plant that will help to cover a wall. However, I don't want to use an ivy because of the associate risks. I am thinking of using a trellis, but don't want a plant that uses 'suckers' to cling to the wall itself. I would like a leafy evergreen if possible. Any suggestions? How are you going to attach the trellis? I suggest that you ignore the nonsense about ivy - it won't damage any walls built in the past 50 years in the UK, unless they are already failing. It very rarely damages even older ones. The point is that REMOVING ivy from a wall with loose mortar (e.g. decaying lime mortar, as used over 50 years back) can cause trouble, but otherwise it does no more harm than any other evergreen creeper. And, to grow anything else, you need to fix a fairly solid trellis, which assumes that your mortar is solid! That being said, I don't grow ivy. How big is the wall, where do you live, what is the aspect, what soil do you have, and what other properties do you want it to have? Regards, Nick Maclaren. |
#3
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I like pyracantha which you can obtain in many different colours:
http://www.desert-tropicals.com/Plan..._coccinea.html http://www.crocus.co.uk/plantdoctor/...09&CategoryID= http://www.hort.net/gallery/view/ros/pyrcrgr80 Regards, Emrys Davies. "Nick Maclaren" wrote in message ... In article , Alex Woodward wrote: I would like tips on a good plant that will help to cover a wall. However, I don't want to use an ivy because of the associate risks. I am thinking of using a trellis, but don't want a plant that uses 'suckers' to cling to the wall itself. I would like a leafy evergreen if possible. Any suggestions? How are you going to attach the trellis? I suggest that you ignore the nonsense about ivy - it won't damage any walls built in the past 50 years in the UK, unless they are already failing. It very rarely damages even older ones. The point is that REMOVING ivy from a wall with loose mortar (e.g. decaying lime mortar, as used over 50 years back) can cause trouble, but otherwise it does no more harm than any other evergreen creeper. And, to grow anything else, you need to fix a fairly solid trellis, which assumes that your mortar is solid! That being said, I don't grow ivy. How big is the wall, where do you live, what is the aspect, what soil do you have, and what other properties do you want it to have? Regards, Nick Maclaren. |
#4
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In article ,
Emrys Davies wrote: I like pyracantha which you can obtain in many different colours: Well, yes, but .... Please don't top-post! An established pyracantha will grow 6' in a season, with stems 3/4" thick, and armed with 1" thorns. I got rid of mine because I got sick of keeping it under control - and I believe that is why the owner of a large wall pyracantha nearby did. Regards, Nick Maclaren. |
#5
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"Nick Maclaren" wrote in message ... In article , Alex Woodward wrote: I would like tips on a good plant that will help to cover a wall. However, I don't want to use an ivy because of the associate risks. I am thinking of using a trellis, but don't want a plant that uses 'suckers' to cling to the wall itself. I would like a leafy evergreen if possible. Any suggestions? How are you going to attach the trellis? The wall is approximately 3 metres high by 4 mtrs long. It was constructed about 8 years ago as part of a house extension. There are no windows and it looks a bit drab, therefore I would like to brighten it up with a creeper. Of course if anyone has a better idea, then I am all ears! I suggest that you ignore the nonsense about ivy - it won't damage any walls built in the past 50 years in the UK, unless they are already failing. It very rarely damages even older ones. I take your point about ivy, but what about the mess it might leave if after I plant it, if I later decide to remove it?. As I have mentioned, the wall is part of a relatively new house extension and I certainly don't want to discolour the brick work for no good reason (even though it does look a bit drab at the moment) The point is that REMOVING ivy from a wall with loose mortar (e.g. decaying lime mortar, as used over 50 years back) can cause trouble, but otherwise it does no more harm than any other evergreen creeper. And, to grow anything else, you need to fix a fairly solid trellis, which assumes that your mortar is solid! The mortar is solid, plus there are other places where I can anchor it. That being said, I don't grow ivy. How big is the wall, See above where do you live, UK, zone 8 what is the aspect, east facing what soil do you have, It will be planted in a long container, therefore I'll use the soil that is required (provided I can get hold of it) and what other properties do you want it to have? Hopefully it will grow quite rapidly initially, though I don't want it to swamp the house. I don't mind if it completely covers the wall I intend putting it against though. Also I'd like to see some colour change on its leaves during autumn. By the way I'd like to point out that I am not an avid gardener by any means and am quite new to it, so please be patient with me if some of my questions seem a little stupid! Thanks for your reply and for any more tips you can give. Alex. |
#6
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In article , "Alex Woodward" writes: | | where do you live, | | UK, zone 8 If you want serious advice, you need to give more relevant information. Most posters to this group live in the UK, and the USDA zones are almost completely irrelevant to us. Regards, Nick Maclaren. |
#7
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"Nick Maclaren" wrote in message ... In article , "Alex Woodward" writes: | | where do you live, | | UK, zone 8 If you want serious advice, you need to give more relevant information. Most posters to this group live in the UK, and the USDA zones are almost completely irrelevant to us. When I say UK zone 8 I took it from this webpage: http://www.uk.gardenweb.com/forums/l...146163246.html Hope the information is what you are after. Alex |
#8
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In article ,
Alex Woodward wrote: When I say UK zone 8 I took it from this webpage: http://www.uk.gardenweb.com/forums/l...146163246.html Those are USDA zones, and are almost completely irrelevant in the UK. Regards, Nick Maclaren. |
#9
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Alex Woodward wrote:
"Nick Maclaren" wrote in message [...] The wall is approximately 3 metres high by 4 mtrs long. It was constructed about 8 years ago as part of a house extension. There are no windows [...] I suggest that you ignore the nonsense about ivy - it won't damage any walls built in the past 50 years in the UK, unless they are already failing. It very rarely damages even older ones. I take your point about ivy, but what about the mess it might leave if after I plant it, if I later decide to remove it?. As I have mentioned, the wall is part of a relatively new house extension and I certainly don't want to discolour the brick work for no good reason (even though it does look a bit drab at the moment) The point is that REMOVING ivy from a wall with loose mortar (e.g. decaying lime mortar, as used over 50 years back) can cause trouble, but otherwise it does no more harm than any other evergreen creeper. And, to grow anything else, you need to fix a fairly solid trellis, which assumes that your mortar is solid! The mortar is solid, plus there are other places where I can anchor it. That being said, I don't grow ivy. [...] Hopefully it will grow quite rapidly initially, though I don't want it to swamp the house. I don't mind if it completely covers the wall I intend putting it against though. Also I'd like to see some colour change on its leaves during autumn. By the way I'd like to point out that I am not an avid gardener by any means [...] OK, no windows is good news with ivy. But if you aren't an avid gardener, can you promise yourself that you will never let the ivy get as far as the barge-boards or the roof? It can loosen slates and prise apart the joints in woodwork. If the wall were rendered and painted, removing ivy would leave zillions of little "roots" and dead bits of stem behind: these would show through the next coat of paint unless you laboriously scraped them off. (I speak as an ivy-lover who has made the mistake.) On your plain brick wall, these left-behind bits won't matter much, as they'll eventually rot away. Some ivies colour nicely in the autumn, and stay that way all winter; but it doesn't usually happen till they're mature, and may not happen at all if they're well fed (one beauty I selected carefully in the wild still wasn't colouring up ten years later). Mike. |
#10
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"Mike Lyle" wrote in message ... Alex Woodward wrote: "Nick Maclaren" wrote in message [...] The wall is approximately 3 metres high by 4 mtrs long. It was constructed about 8 years ago as part of a house extension. There are no windows [...] I suggest that you ignore the nonsense about ivy - it won't damage any walls built in the past 50 years in the UK, unless they are already failing. It very rarely damages even older ones. I take your point about ivy, but what about the mess it might leave if after I plant it, if I later decide to remove it?. As I have mentioned, the wall is part of a relatively new house extension and I certainly don't want to discolour the brick work for no good reason (even though it does look a bit drab at the moment) The point is that REMOVING ivy from a wall with loose mortar (e.g. decaying lime mortar, as used over 50 years back) can cause trouble, but otherwise it does no more harm than any other evergreen creeper. And, to grow anything else, you need to fix a fairly solid trellis, which assumes that your mortar is solid! The mortar is solid, plus there are other places where I can anchor it. That being said, I don't grow ivy. [...] Hopefully it will grow quite rapidly initially, though I don't want it to swamp the house. I don't mind if it completely covers the wall I intend putting it against though. Also I'd like to see some colour change on its leaves during autumn. By the way I'd like to point out that I am not an avid gardener by any means [...] OK, no windows is good news with ivy. But if you aren't an avid gardener, can you promise yourself that you will never let the ivy get as far as the barge-boards or the roof? It can loosen slates and prise apart the joints in woodwork. I don't mind pruning now and again. Assuming they thrive, how often do they need pruning. Do they grow as quickly as hedge rows for example? If the wall were rendered and painted, removing ivy would leave zillions of little "roots" and dead bits of stem behind: these would show through the next coat of paint unless you laboriously scraped them off. (I speak as an ivy-lover who has made the mistake.) On your plain brick wall, these left-behind bits won't matter much, as they'll eventually rot away The wall is plain brick. .. Some ivies colour nicely in the autumn, and stay that way all winter; but it doesn't usually happen till they're mature, and may not happen at all if they're well fed (one beauty I selected carefully in the wild still wasn't colouring up ten years later). In that case, is it better not to feed them so well after they have fully grown or are there serious disadvantages in going down that route? Alex |
#11
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Alex Woodward wrote:
"Mike Lyle" wrote in [...] OK, no windows is good news with ivy. But if you aren't an avid gardener, can you promise yourself that you will never let the ivy get as far as the barge-boards or the roof? It can loosen slates and prise apart the joints in woodwork. I don't mind pruning now and again. Assuming they thrive, how often do they need pruning. Do they grow as quickly as hedge rows for example? If you're moderately brutal, twice a year; if you're really brutal, once. Unless you're artistic about it, it will look horrible for amonth or two afterwards. But you cannot afford to forget twice running. [...] Some ivies colour nicely in the autumn, and stay that way all winter; but it doesn't usually happen till they're mature, and may not happen at all if they're well fed (one beauty I selected carefully in the wild still wasn't colouring up ten years later). In that case, is it better not to feed them so well after they have fully grown or are there serious disadvantages in going down that route? I don't mean feeding them in the sense of applying feed: they never need that _at all_. I refer to the soil in which they grow. I put my chosen colouring specimens in a mixture of subsoil and builders' rubble, and they still thought it was absolutely delicious. My guess is that they'd have started looking good once they'd exhausted that soil in another twenty years or so (they root shallowly). There are some absolutely beautiful pink-and-yellow ones in a rocky cutting on the Great Western Railway outside Neath, if you ever make that journey: they've probably been eking out the nutrients since Brunel's time. Mine, a lovely dark and dusty pink, came from beside the road near Pembroke. On the matter of USDA-style zones, deprecated by Nick, the problem with the British Isles is that they are relatively small areas of extremely varied relief stuck in the North Atlantic: within them you can find climates varying from, let's say, Maine to maybe North Carolina to Oregon within a bus-ride. I recognize the map you refer to as very much the same as what's in the standard agricultural textbooks; but the trouble is, it only takes a hill, or a row of houses, or even a wall to change the picture completely. It's endlessly fascinating; but I can see why the Brits invented the US: so much simpler! Mike. |
#12
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"Alex Woodward" wrote in message ... "Nick Maclaren" wrote in message ... In article , Alex Woodward wrote: I would like tips on a good plant that will help to cover a wall. However, I don't want to use an ivy because of the associate risks. I am thinking of using a trellis, but don't want a plant that uses 'suckers' to cling to the wall itself. I would like a leafy evergreen if possible. Any suggestions? snip where do you live, UK, zone 8 what is the aspect, east facing what soil do you have, It will be planted in a long container, therefore I'll use the soil that is required (provided I can get hold of it) and what other properties do you want it to have? Hopefully it will grow quite rapidly initially, though I don't want it to swamp the house. I don't mind if it completely covers the wall I intend putting it against though. Also I'd like to see some colour change on its leaves during autumn. By the way I'd like to point out that I am not an avid gardener by any means and am quite new to it, so please be patient with me if some of my questions seem a little stupid! Shame you have to grow it in a container, still if your heart is set on an evergreen in a container, things to bear in mind are, container as large as possable (or you will be watering for ever) Very secure trellis that is about 3" off the wall (or the plants will damage in the wind) Choices that may work on an east wall that is not too frosty. Ercilla volubilis (does self cling but tends to pull off due to its weight) in full flower now and very scented. Clematis armandii Passiflora caerulea Trachelospermum asiaticum or jasminoides (this will turn red in autumn as well as be evergreen but glues itself to the wall (not like ivy or viginia creeper) asiaticum flowers well but the jasminoides can be shy to flower, the best form is called 'Majus' and there are a couple of very attractive variegated forms. I am very fond of Holboelia latifolia but the last few nights have stripped the flower buds, ditto Akebia quinata, but that tends to be semi evergreen if frosted. -- Charlie, gardening in Cornwall. http://www.roselandhouse.co.uk Holders of National Plant Collection of Clematis viticella (cvs) |
#13
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In article ,
Charlie Pridham wrote: I am very fond of Holboelia latifolia but the last few nights have stripped the flower buds, ditto Akebia quinata, but that tends to be semi evergreen if frosted. I shall see if my Akebia quinata flowers, though my experience is that it is tolerably frost-resistant - on the other hand, it is reliably deciduous with me, even in a very mild winter. So far, I have not got Holboellia to flower, as the buds get frosted by the slightest nip - even the new shoots die, but that is scarcely a matter of concern, as it merely acts as a bit of pinching out. I don't think that a mere -7 Celcius will be enough to worry either Clematis armandii or Passiflora caerulea - curiously, I have found the flower buds of the former to be more frost-resistant than the shoots. And, of course, the latter is semi-evergreen, indeed almost herbaceous, with me. Most the above is the difference between where you live and where I do. What will be nasty is if this weather is followed by a long spell of cold and wet, as that could let the bacteria and fungi into the frost damage. That is more likely to be your problem than mine. Regards, Nick Maclaren. |
#14
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"Charlie Pridham" wrote in message ... "Alex Woodward" wrote in message ... "Nick Maclaren" wrote in message ... In article , Alex Woodward wrote: I would like tips on a good plant that will help to cover a wall. However, I don't want to use an ivy because of the associate risks. I am thinking of using a trellis, but don't want a plant that uses 'suckers' to cling to the wall itself. I would like a leafy evergreen if possible. Any suggestions? snip where do you live, UK, zone 8 what is the aspect, east facing what soil do you have, It will be planted in a long container, therefore I'll use the soil that is required (provided I can get hold of it) and what other properties do you want it to have? Hopefully it will grow quite rapidly initially, though I don't want it to swamp the house. I don't mind if it completely covers the wall I intend putting it against though. Also I'd like to see some colour change on its leaves during autumn. By the way I'd like to point out that I am not an avid gardener by any means and am quite new to it, so please be patient with me if some of my questions seem a little stupid! Shame you have to grow it in a container, still if your heart is set on an evergreen in a container, things to bear in mind are, container as large as possable (or you will be watering for ever) I have a path that runs the course of the wall. Unfortunately the path cannot be moved (Well I could, but then I'd have to clamber over the rest of the garden to get to the rear of the house!) Is it possible to calculate how much soil a climber requires to fully mature? One of the other posters says that some climbers don't need a great depth of soil. I've had a look at the climbers you have suggested and all have got there merits. When is the best time to plant. I am assuming that now is not the best time, due to the extremely cold weather we are experiencing in the UK. Alex |
#15
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"Alex Woodward" wrote in message ... "Charlie Pridham" wrote in message ... "Alex Woodward" wrote in message ... "Nick Maclaren" wrote in message ... In article , Alex Woodward wrote: I have a path that runs the course of the wall. Unfortunately the path cannot be moved (Well I could, but then I'd have to clamber over the rest of the garden to get to the rear of the house!) Is it possible to calculate how much soil a climber requires to fully mature? One of the other posters says that some climbers don't need a great depth of soil. I've had a look at the climbers you have suggested and all have got there merits. When is the best time to plant. I am assuming that now is not the best time, due to the extremely cold weather we are experiencing in the UK. Alex What about knocking a hole in the path the same size as the space you were going to take up with the pot? With evergreens I would say spring is the best time, for me that would be mid April (also check where the plants have been, if protected and suddenly exposed they can suffer a shock) As Nick says, with me its not the frost but the thaw that kills things, this morning, the first for awhile above zero, the garden is a black mush! -- Charlie, gardening in Cornwall. http://www.roselandhouse.co.uk Holders of National Plant Collection of Clematis viticella (cvs) |
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