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citrus tree question
My husband has a couple of citrus trees in his green house, and they are
covered with scale insect. How does he get rid of the nasty things? thanks... -- Jenn |
#2
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citrus tree question
On 3/15/2015 2:24 PM, Jenn wrote:
My husband has a couple of citrus trees in his green house, and they are covered with scale insect. How does he get rid of the nasty things? thanks... Only scale problem I had, on a gardenia, was cured with a systemic insecticide. Unfortunately it will probably not be wise to eat the fruit for some time. Maybe others will know. |
#3
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citrus tree question
Jenn wrote:
My husband has a couple of citrus trees in his green house, and they are covered with scale insect. How does he get rid of the nasty things? thanks... If the trees are small and not too infested pick them off. If large or badly taken spray with soluble oil (aka white oil or pest oil) according to directions. -- David - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Corporate propaganda is their protection against democracy |
#4
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citrus tree question
On 3/15/2015 11:24 AM, Jenn wrote:
My husband has a couple of citrus trees in his green house, and they are covered with scale insect. How does he get rid of the nasty things? thanks... Scale can be eliminated with malathion. Long-term protection can be obtained with a soil drench containing Imidacloprid. Although it is not approved for use on edibles, research indicates it is harmless to mammals and birds. However, do not use it during or prior to blooming since it is quite toxic to bees. If blooming is expected within the next two months, I would wait. -- David E. Ross Climate: California Mediterranean, see http://www.rossde.com/garden/climate.html Gardening diary at http://www.rossde.com/garden/diary |
#5
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citrus tree question
On Sun, 15 Mar 2015, "David E. Ross" wrote:
On 3/15/2015 11:24 AM, Jenn wrote: My husband has a couple of citrus trees in his green house, and they are covered with scale insect. How does he get rid of the nasty things? Long-term protection can be obtained with a soil drench containing Imidacloprid. Although it is not approved for use on edibles, research indicates it is harmless to mammals and birds. However, do not use it during or prior to blooming since it is quite toxic to bees. If blooming is expected within the next two months, I would wait. I doubt Jenn's husband has bees in his green house, but possibly he has a hive in there. Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom). |
#6
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citrus tree question
On 3/19/2015 9:32 AM, Don Wiss wrote:
On Sun, 15 Mar 2015, "David E. Ross" wrote: On 3/15/2015 11:24 AM, Jenn wrote: My husband has a couple of citrus trees in his green house, and they are covered with scale insect. How does he get rid of the nasty things? Long-term protection can be obtained with a soil drench containing Imidacloprid. Although it is not approved for use on edibles, research indicates it is harmless to mammals and birds. However, do not use it during or prior to blooming since it is quite toxic to bees. If blooming is expected within the next two months, I would wait. I doubt Jenn's husband has bees in his green house, but possibly he has a hive in there. Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom). In some areas, greenhouses are opened to the outside as the weather becomes mild. Bees would then visit the citrus in the greenhouse. Pollination, however, is not required for citrus to form fruit. Seeds in such fruit are even viable. This characteristic is called "apomixis". Thus, my caution is to protect bees, not to promote fruiting. -- David E. Ross Climate: California Mediterranean, see http://www.rossde.com/garden/climate.html Gardening diary at http://www.rossde.com/garden/diary |
#7
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citrus tree question
On 3/19/2015 2:29 PM, David E. Ross wrote:
On 3/19/2015 9:32 AM, Don Wiss wrote: On Sun, 15 Mar 2015, "David E. Ross" wrote: On 3/15/2015 11:24 AM, Jenn wrote: My husband has a couple of citrus trees in his green house, and they are covered with scale insect. How does he get rid of the nasty things? Long-term protection can be obtained with a soil drench containing Imidacloprid. Although it is not approved for use on edibles, research indicates it is harmless to mammals and birds. However, do not use it during or prior to blooming since it is quite toxic to bees. If blooming is expected within the next two months, I would wait. I doubt Jenn's husband has bees in his green house, but possibly he has a hive in there. Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom). In some areas, greenhouses are opened to the outside as the weather becomes mild. Bees would then visit the citrus in the greenhouse. Pollination, however, is not required for citrus to form fruit. Seeds in such fruit are even viable. This characteristic is called "apomixis". Thus, my caution is to protect bees, not to promote fruiting. We don't have a bee hive, but we do want to protect the bees and not kill any. I mentioned to him the idea about the oil spray, though. Thanks for the suggestions. Right now the citrus trees have dropped all of their leaves, I guess from being in a cooler green house and the light cycle being the winter cycle. Does it matter if he sprays with the oil spray as it begins to leaf out, or should he try to get that done before it leafs out? -- Jenn |
#8
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citrus tree question
On 3/21/2015 9:21 AM, Jenn wrote:
On 3/19/2015 2:29 PM, David E. Ross wrote: On 3/19/2015 9:32 AM, Don Wiss wrote: On Sun, 15 Mar 2015, "David E. Ross" wrote: On 3/15/2015 11:24 AM, Jenn wrote: My husband has a couple of citrus trees in his green house, and they are covered with scale insect. How does he get rid of the nasty things? Long-term protection can be obtained with a soil drench containing Imidacloprid. Although it is not approved for use on edibles, research indicates it is harmless to mammals and birds. However, do not use it during or prior to blooming since it is quite toxic to bees. If blooming is expected within the next two months, I would wait. I doubt Jenn's husband has bees in his green house, but possibly he has a hive in there. Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom). In some areas, greenhouses are opened to the outside as the weather becomes mild. Bees would then visit the citrus in the greenhouse. Pollination, however, is not required for citrus to form fruit. Seeds in such fruit are even viable. This characteristic is called "apomixis". Thus, my caution is to protect bees, not to promote fruiting. We don't have a bee hive, but we do want to protect the bees and not kill any. I mentioned to him the idea about the oil spray, though. Thanks for the suggestions. Right now the citrus trees have dropped all of their leaves, I guess from being in a cooler green house and the light cycle being the winter cycle. Does it matter if he sprays with the oil spray as it begins to leaf out, or should he try to get that done before it leafs out? Definitely apply oil before new growth begins. The oil will damage new growth. I would be very concerned if my citrus became leafless. Citrus is a subtropical, broad-leaf evergreen. It should have leaves year-round. -- David E. Ross Climate: California Mediterranean, see http://www.rossde.com/garden/climate.html Gardening diary at http://www.rossde.com/garden/diary |
#9
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citrus tree question
On 3/21/2015 1:17 PM, David E. Ross wrote:
On 3/21/2015 9:21 AM, Jenn wrote: On 3/19/2015 2:29 PM, David E. Ross wrote: On 3/19/2015 9:32 AM, Don Wiss wrote: On Sun, 15 Mar 2015, "David E. Ross" wrote: On 3/15/2015 11:24 AM, Jenn wrote: My husband has a couple of citrus trees in his green house, and they are covered with scale insect. How does he get rid of the nasty things? Long-term protection can be obtained with a soil drench containing Imidacloprid. Although it is not approved for use on edibles, research indicates it is harmless to mammals and birds. However, do not use it during or prior to blooming since it is quite toxic to bees. If blooming is expected within the next two months, I would wait. I doubt Jenn's husband has bees in his green house, but possibly he has a hive in there. Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom). In some areas, greenhouses are opened to the outside as the weather becomes mild. Bees would then visit the citrus in the greenhouse. Pollination, however, is not required for citrus to form fruit. Seeds in such fruit are even viable. This characteristic is called "apomixis". Thus, my caution is to protect bees, not to promote fruiting. We don't have a bee hive, but we do want to protect the bees and not kill any. I mentioned to him the idea about the oil spray, though. Thanks for the suggestions. Right now the citrus trees have dropped all of their leaves, I guess from being in a cooler green house and the light cycle being the winter cycle. Does it matter if he sprays with the oil spray as it begins to leaf out, or should he try to get that done before it leafs out? Definitely apply oil before new growth begins. The oil will damage new growth. I would be very concerned if my citrus became leafless. Citrus is a subtropical, broad-leaf evergreen. It should have leaves year-round. Last winter when they dropped all their leaves I thought they were dead for sure, but come spring when the daylight cycle changed and it warmed up they all leafed out again just like the rest of deciduous trees do. I was pleasantly surprised about that ... I'll let my husband know to get with it using that oil spray before they start to leaf out again. -- Jenn |
#10
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Quote:
Pesticides will be your best bet or perhaps Neem oil. Further info can be read here http://www.gardeningknowhow.com/edib...trus-scale.htm |
#11
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citrus tree question
Jenn wrote:
On 3/19/2015 2:29 PM, David E. Ross wrote: On 3/19/2015 9:32 AM, Don Wiss wrote: On Sun, 15 Mar 2015, "David E. Ross" wrote: On 3/15/2015 11:24 AM, Jenn wrote: My husband has a couple of citrus trees in his green house, and they are covered with scale insect. How does he get rid of the nasty things? Long-term protection can be obtained with a soil drench containing Imidacloprid. Although it is not approved for use on edibles, research indicates it is harmless to mammals and birds. However, do not use it during or prior to blooming since it is quite toxic to bees. If blooming is expected within the next two months, I would wait. I doubt Jenn's husband has bees in his green house, but possibly he has a hive in there. Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom). In some areas, greenhouses are opened to the outside as the weather becomes mild. Bees would then visit the citrus in the greenhouse. Pollination, however, is not required for citrus to form fruit. Seeds in such fruit are even viable. This characteristic is called "apomixis". Thus, my caution is to protect bees, not to promote fruiting. We don't have a bee hive, but we do want to protect the bees and not kill any. I mentioned to him the idea about the oil spray, though. Thanks for the suggestions. Right now the citrus trees have dropped all of their leaves, I guess from being in a cooler green house and the light cycle being the winter cycle. Does it matter if he sprays with the oil spray as it begins to leaf out, or should he try to get that done before it leafs out? Your citrus are very sick. They should NOT drop their leaves. You say they did this last year but recovered, this is not a good sign, they ought not to do it any year. There are many causes for this including under and over watering, over fertilising, lack of sun and freezing. An adult orange will stand a light frost, a tahitian lime will not be happy with any frost. They will be more suseptible to insect damaged while stressed for whatever reason. The further out of its comfort zone you try to grow a plant the more skill and effort it takes to compensate. If you have neither the right climate nor the skill and time you are not going to have happy trees. -- David - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Corporate propaganda is their protection against democracy |
#12
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citrus tree question
On Sun, 22 Mar 2015 18:27:37 +1100, "David Hare-Scott"
wrote: Right now the citrus trees have dropped all of their leaves, I guess from being in a cooler green house and the light cycle being the winter cycle. Does it matter if he sprays with the oil spray as it begins to leaf out, or should he try to get that done before it leafs out? Your citrus are very sick. They should NOT drop their leaves. You say they did this last year but recovered, this is not a good sign, they ought not to do it any year. There are many causes for this including under and over watering, over fertilising, lack of sun and freezing. An adult orange will stand a light frost, a tahitian lime will not be happy with any frost. They will be more suseptible to insect damaged while stressed for whatever reason. The further out of its comfort zone you try to grow a plant the more skill and effort it takes to compensate. If you have neither the right climate nor the skill and time you are not going to have happy trees. Growing out of comfort zone is the specific goal of many a specialty gardener. Surely it takes care and is best left to someone who understands specifics, but there is a learning curve in any endeavor. Here in northern NJ, I have grown potted and tubbed citrus for many years, mostly successfully, but there can be fatal problems with *any* sort of planting, indoors or out, native or exotic. We do our best, read up, ask advice online, from libraries, nurseries or extension services. Such is the delight and adventure of gardening and maintaining houseplants. Sometimes it works really well, sometimes it doesn't, but that does not mean anyone should ever be discouraged from trying. These aren't puppies...they are plants. I take as a challenge all the attempts to grow out of clime. I am sure there are few here in my area that can harvest olives in the fall or have kefir lime leaves whenever the recipe calls for it or have a indoor bottle brush tree that blooms in January. I have a lot of fun with a full assortment of fresh herbs in my kitchen all winter and they look so good among the orchids. One can have citrus come back from scale and almost total leaf loss. It can happen. Boron |
#13
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citrus tree question
On 3/22/2015 9:58 AM, Boron Elgar wrote:
On Sun, 22 Mar 2015 18:27:37 +1100, "David Hare-Scott" wrote: Right now the citrus trees have dropped all of their leaves, I guess from being in a cooler green house and the light cycle being the winter cycle. Does it matter if he sprays with the oil spray as it begins to leaf out, or should he try to get that done before it leafs out? Your citrus are very sick. They should NOT drop their leaves. You say they did this last year but recovered, this is not a good sign, they ought not to do it any year. There are many causes for this including under and over watering, over fertilising, lack of sun and freezing. An adult orange will stand a light frost, a tahitian lime will not be happy with any frost. They will be more suseptible to insect damaged while stressed for whatever reason. The further out of its comfort zone you try to grow a plant the more skill and effort it takes to compensate. If you have neither the right climate nor the skill and time you are not going to have happy trees. Growing out of comfort zone is the specific goal of many a specialty gardener. Surely it takes care and is best left to someone who understands specifics, but there is a learning curve in any endeavor. Here in northern NJ, I have grown potted and tubbed citrus for many years, mostly successfully, but there can be fatal problems with *any* sort of planting, indoors or out, native or exotic. We do our best, read up, ask advice online, from libraries, nurseries or extension services. Such is the delight and adventure of gardening and maintaining houseplants. Sometimes it works really well, sometimes it doesn't, but that does not mean anyone should ever be discouraged from trying. These aren't puppies...they are plants. I take as a challenge all the attempts to grow out of clime. I am sure there are few here in my area that can harvest olives in the fall or have kefir lime leaves whenever the recipe calls for it or have a indoor bottle brush tree that blooms in January. I have a lot of fun with a full assortment of fresh herbs in my kitchen all winter and they look so good among the orchids. One can have citrus come back from scale and almost total leaf loss. It can happen. We have 4 citrus trees in our green house and they all lose all of their leaves when we winter them there, but come spring, they leaf out again just like deciduous trees and bushes. It's kind of cool. -- Jenn |
#14
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citrus tree question
On Sun, 22 Mar 2015 10:05:27 -0500, Jenn
wrote: On 3/22/2015 9:58 AM, Boron Elgar wrote: On Sun, 22 Mar 2015 18:27:37 +1100, "David Hare-Scott" wrote: Right now the citrus trees have dropped all of their leaves, I guess from being in a cooler green house and the light cycle being the winter cycle. Does it matter if he sprays with the oil spray as it begins to leaf out, or should he try to get that done before it leafs out? Your citrus are very sick. They should NOT drop their leaves. You say they did this last year but recovered, this is not a good sign, they ought not to do it any year. There are many causes for this including under and over watering, over fertilising, lack of sun and freezing. An adult orange will stand a light frost, a tahitian lime will not be happy with any frost. They will be more suseptible to insect damaged while stressed for whatever reason. The further out of its comfort zone you try to grow a plant the more skill and effort it takes to compensate. If you have neither the right climate nor the skill and time you are not going to have happy trees. Growing out of comfort zone is the specific goal of many a specialty gardener. Surely it takes care and is best left to someone who understands specifics, but there is a learning curve in any endeavor. Here in northern NJ, I have grown potted and tubbed citrus for many years, mostly successfully, but there can be fatal problems with *any* sort of planting, indoors or out, native or exotic. We do our best, read up, ask advice online, from libraries, nurseries or extension services. Such is the delight and adventure of gardening and maintaining houseplants. Sometimes it works really well, sometimes it doesn't, but that does not mean anyone should ever be discouraged from trying. These aren't puppies...they are plants. I take as a challenge all the attempts to grow out of clime. I am sure there are few here in my area that can harvest olives in the fall or have kefir lime leaves whenever the recipe calls for it or have a indoor bottle brush tree that blooms in January. I have a lot of fun with a full assortment of fresh herbs in my kitchen all winter and they look so good among the orchids. One can have citrus come back from scale and almost total leaf loss. It can happen. We have 4 citrus trees in our green house and they all lose all of their leaves when we winter them there, but come spring, they leaf out again just like deciduous trees and bushes. It's kind of cool. Even cooler is buying Tropicana OJ! LOL |
#15
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citrus tree question
Boron Elgar wrote:
On Sun, 22 Mar 2015 18:27:37 +1100, "David Hare-Scott" wrote: Right now the citrus trees have dropped all of their leaves, I guess from being in a cooler green house and the light cycle being the winter cycle. Does it matter if he sprays with the oil spray as it begins to leaf out, or should he try to get that done before it leafs out? Your citrus are very sick. They should NOT drop their leaves. You say they did this last year but recovered, this is not a good sign, they ought not to do it any year. There are many causes for this including under and over watering, over fertilising, lack of sun and freezing. An adult orange will stand a light frost, a tahitian lime will not be happy with any frost. They will be more suseptible to insect damaged while stressed for whatever reason. The further out of its comfort zone you try to grow a plant the more skill and effort it takes to compensate. If you have neither the right climate nor the skill and time you are not going to have happy trees. Growing out of comfort zone is the specific goal of many a specialty gardener. Surely it takes care and is best left to someone who understands specifics, but there is a learning curve in any endeavor. Here in northern NJ, I have grown potted and tubbed citrus for many years, mostly successfully, but there can be fatal problems with *any* sort of planting, indoors or out, native or exotic. We do our best, read up, ask advice online, from libraries, nurseries or extension services. Such is the delight and adventure of gardening and maintaining houseplants. Sometimes it works really well, sometimes it doesn't, but that does not mean anyone should ever be discouraged from trying. These aren't puppies...they are plants. I take as a challenge all the attempts to grow out of clime. I am sure there are few here in my area that can harvest olives in the fall or have kefir lime leaves whenever the recipe calls for it or have a indoor bottle brush tree that blooms in January. I have a lot of fun with a full assortment of fresh herbs in my kitchen all winter and they look so good among the orchids. One can have citrus come back from scale and almost total leaf loss. It can happen. Boron Sure you can, never suggested you can't. The more stresses you put on the plant the less chance it will reach anything like its potential and the more chance that one more stress will be its last. -- David - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Corporate propaganda is their protection against democracy |
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