My husband has a couple of citrus trees in his green house, and they are
covered with scale insect. How does he get rid of the nasty things?

thanks...
--
Jenn

On 3/15/2015 2:24 PM, Jenn wrote:
My husband has a couple of citrus trees in his green house, and they are
covered with scale insect. How does he get rid of the nasty things?

thanks...

Only scale problem I had, on a gardenia, was cured with a systemic
insecticide. Unfortunately it will probably not be wise to eat the
fruit for some time. Maybe others will know.

Jenn wrote:
My husband has a couple of citrus trees in his green house, and they
are covered with scale insect. How does he get rid of the nasty
things?
thanks...

If the trees are small and not too infested pick them off. If large or badly
taken spray with soluble oil (aka white oil or pest oil) according to
directions.

--
David

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Corporate propaganda is their
protection against democracy

On 3/15/2015 11:24 AM, Jenn wrote:
My husband has a couple of citrus trees in his green house, and they are
covered with scale insect. How does he get rid of the nasty things?

thanks...


Scale can be eliminated with malathion.

Long-term protection can be obtained with a soil drench containing
Imidacloprid. Although it is not approved for use on edibles, research
indicates it is harmless to mammals and birds. However, do not use it
during or prior to blooming since it is quite toxic to bees. If
blooming is expected within the next two months, I would wait.

--
David E. Ross
Climate: California Mediterranean, see
http://www.rossde.com/garden/climate.html
Gardening diary at http://www.rossde.com/garden/diary

On Sun, 15 Mar 2015, "David E. Ross" wrote:

On 3/15/2015 11:24 AM, Jenn wrote:
My husband has a couple of citrus trees in his green house, and they are
covered with scale insect. How does he get rid of the nasty things?

Long-term protection can be obtained with a soil drench containing
Imidacloprid. Although it is not approved for use on edibles, research
indicates it is harmless to mammals and birds. However, do not use it
during or prior to blooming since it is quite toxic to bees. If
blooming is expected within the next two months, I would wait.

I doubt Jenn's husband has bees in his green house, but possibly he has a
hive in there.

Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).

On 3/19/2015 9:32 AM, Don Wiss wrote:
On Sun, 15 Mar 2015, "David E. Ross" wrote:

On 3/15/2015 11:24 AM, Jenn wrote:
My husband has a couple of citrus trees in his green house, and they are
covered with scale insect. How does he get rid of the nasty things?

Long-term protection can be obtained with a soil drench containing
Imidacloprid. Although it is not approved for use on edibles, research
indicates it is harmless to mammals and birds. However, do not use it
during or prior to blooming since it is quite toxic to bees. If
blooming is expected within the next two months, I would wait.

I doubt Jenn's husband has bees in his green house, but possibly he has a
hive in there.

Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).


In some areas, greenhouses are opened to the outside as the weather
becomes mild. Bees would then visit the citrus in the greenhouse.

Pollination, however, is not required for citrus to form fruit. Seeds
in such fruit are even viable. This characteristic is called
"apomixis". Thus, my caution is to protect bees, not to promote fruiting.

--
David E. Ross
Climate: California Mediterranean, see
http://www.rossde.com/garden/climate.html
Gardening diary at http://www.rossde.com/garden/diary

On 3/19/2015 2:29 PM, David E. Ross wrote:
On 3/19/2015 9:32 AM, Don Wiss wrote:
On Sun, 15 Mar 2015, "David E. Ross" wrote:

On 3/15/2015 11:24 AM, Jenn wrote:
My husband has a couple of citrus trees in his green house, and they are
covered with scale insect. How does he get rid of the nasty things?

Long-term protection can be obtained with a soil drench containing
Imidacloprid. Although it is not approved for use on edibles, research
indicates it is harmless to mammals and birds. However, do not use it
during or prior to blooming since it is quite toxic to bees. If
blooming is expected within the next two months, I would wait.

I doubt Jenn's husband has bees in his green house, but possibly he has a
hive in there.

Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).


In some areas, greenhouses are opened to the outside as the weather
becomes mild. Bees would then visit the citrus in the greenhouse.

Pollination, however, is not required for citrus to form fruit. Seeds
in such fruit are even viable. This characteristic is called
"apomixis". Thus, my caution is to protect bees, not to promote fruiting.


We don't have a bee hive, but we do want to protect the bees and not
kill any. I mentioned to him the idea about the oil spray, though.

Thanks for the suggestions.

Right now the citrus trees have dropped all of their leaves, I guess
from being in a cooler green house and the light cycle being the winter
cycle. Does it matter if he sprays with the oil spray as it begins to
leaf out, or should he try to get that done before it leafs out?

--
Jenn

On 3/21/2015 9:21 AM, Jenn wrote:
On 3/19/2015 2:29 PM, David E. Ross wrote:
On 3/19/2015 9:32 AM, Don Wiss wrote:
On Sun, 15 Mar 2015, "David E. Ross" wrote:

On 3/15/2015 11:24 AM, Jenn wrote:
My husband has a couple of citrus trees in his green house, and they are
covered with scale insect. How does he get rid of the nasty things?

Long-term protection can be obtained with a soil drench containing
Imidacloprid. Although it is not approved for use on edibles, research
indicates it is harmless to mammals and birds. However, do not use it
during or prior to blooming since it is quite toxic to bees. If
blooming is expected within the next two months, I would wait.

I doubt Jenn's husband has bees in his green house, but possibly he has a
hive in there.

Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).


In some areas, greenhouses are opened to the outside as the weather
becomes mild. Bees would then visit the citrus in the greenhouse.

Pollination, however, is not required for citrus to form fruit. Seeds
in such fruit are even viable. This characteristic is called
"apomixis". Thus, my caution is to protect bees, not to promote fruiting.


We don't have a bee hive, but we do want to protect the bees and not
kill any. I mentioned to him the idea about the oil spray, though.

Thanks for the suggestions.

Right now the citrus trees have dropped all of their leaves, I guess
from being in a cooler green house and the light cycle being the winter
cycle. Does it matter if he sprays with the oil spray as it begins to
leaf out, or should he try to get that done before it leafs out?


Definitely apply oil before new growth begins. The oil will damage new
growth.

I would be very concerned if my citrus became leafless. Citrus is a
subtropical, broad-leaf evergreen. It should have leaves year-round.

--
David E. Ross
Climate: California Mediterranean, see
http://www.rossde.com/garden/climate.html
Gardening diary at http://www.rossde.com/garden/diary

On 3/21/2015 1:17 PM, David E. Ross wrote:
On 3/21/2015 9:21 AM, Jenn wrote:
On 3/19/2015 2:29 PM, David E. Ross wrote:
On 3/19/2015 9:32 AM, Don Wiss wrote:
On Sun, 15 Mar 2015, "David E. Ross" wrote:

On 3/15/2015 11:24 AM, Jenn wrote:
My husband has a couple of citrus trees in his green house, and they are
covered with scale insect. How does he get rid of the nasty things?

Long-term protection can be obtained with a soil drench containing
Imidacloprid. Although it is not approved for use on edibles, research
indicates it is harmless to mammals and birds. However, do not use it
during or prior to blooming since it is quite toxic to bees. If
blooming is expected within the next two months, I would wait.

I doubt Jenn's husband has bees in his green house, but possibly he has a
hive in there.

Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).


In some areas, greenhouses are opened to the outside as the weather
becomes mild. Bees would then visit the citrus in the greenhouse.

Pollination, however, is not required for citrus to form fruit. Seeds
in such fruit are even viable. This characteristic is called
"apomixis". Thus, my caution is to protect bees, not to promote fruiting.


We don't have a bee hive, but we do want to protect the bees and not
kill any. I mentioned to him the idea about the oil spray, though.

Thanks for the suggestions.

Right now the citrus trees have dropped all of their leaves, I guess
from being in a cooler green house and the light cycle being the winter
cycle. Does it matter if he sprays with the oil spray as it begins to
leaf out, or should he try to get that done before it leafs out?


Definitely apply oil before new growth begins. The oil will damage new
growth.

I would be very concerned if my citrus became leafless. Citrus is a
subtropical, broad-leaf evergreen. It should have leaves year-round.


Last winter when they dropped all their leaves I thought they were dead
for sure, but come spring when the daylight cycle changed and it warmed
up they all leafed out again just like the rest of deciduous trees do.

I was pleasantly surprised about that ... I'll let my husband know to
get with it using that oil spray before they start to leaf out again.

--
Jenn

Pesticides will be your best bet or perhaps Neem oil. Further info can be read here
http://www.gardeningknowhow.com/edib...trus-scale.htm

Jenn wrote:
On 3/19/2015 2:29 PM, David E. Ross wrote:
On 3/19/2015 9:32 AM, Don Wiss wrote:
On Sun, 15 Mar 2015, "David E. Ross" wrote:

On 3/15/2015 11:24 AM, Jenn wrote:
My husband has a couple of citrus trees in his green house, and
they are covered with scale insect. How does he get rid of the
nasty things?

Long-term protection can be obtained with a soil drench containing
Imidacloprid. Although it is not approved for use on edibles,
research indicates it is harmless to mammals and birds. However,
do not use it during or prior to blooming since it is quite toxic
to bees. If blooming is expected within the next two months, I
would wait.

I doubt Jenn's husband has bees in his green house, but possibly he
has a hive in there.

Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).


In some areas, greenhouses are opened to the outside as the weather
becomes mild. Bees would then visit the citrus in the greenhouse.

Pollination, however, is not required for citrus to form fruit. Seeds in
such fruit are even viable. This characteristic is called
"apomixis". Thus, my caution is to protect bees, not to promote
fruiting.

We don't have a bee hive, but we do want to protect the bees and not
kill any. I mentioned to him the idea about the oil spray, though.

Thanks for the suggestions.

Right now the citrus trees have dropped all of their leaves, I guess
from being in a cooler green house and the light cycle being the
winter cycle. Does it matter if he sprays with the oil spray as it
begins to leaf out, or should he try to get that done before it leafs
out?

Your citrus are very sick. They should NOT drop their leaves. You say
they did this last year but recovered, this is not a good sign, they ought
not to do it any year. There are many causes for this including under and
over watering, over fertilising, lack of sun and freezing. An adult orange
will stand a light frost, a tahitian lime will not be happy with any frost.
They will be more suseptible to insect damaged while stressed for whatever
reason.

The further out of its comfort zone you try to grow a plant the more skill
and effort it takes to compensate. If you have neither the right climate
nor the skill and time you are not going to have happy trees.

--
David

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Corporate propaganda is their
protection against democracy

On Sun, 22 Mar 2015 18:27:37 +1100, "David Hare-Scott"
wrote:



Right now the citrus trees have dropped all of their leaves, I guess
from being in a cooler green house and the light cycle being the
winter cycle. Does it matter if he sprays with the oil spray as it
begins to leaf out, or should he try to get that done before it leafs
out?

Your citrus are very sick. They should NOT drop their leaves. You say
they did this last year but recovered, this is not a good sign, they ought
not to do it any year. There are many causes for this including under and
over watering, over fertilising, lack of sun and freezing. An adult orange
will stand a light frost, a tahitian lime will not be happy with any frost.
They will be more suseptible to insect damaged while stressed for whatever
reason.

The further out of its comfort zone you try to grow a plant the more skill
and effort it takes to compensate. If you have neither the right climate
nor the skill and time you are not going to have happy trees.


Growing out of comfort zone is the specific goal of many a specialty
gardener.

Surely it takes care and is best left to someone who understands
specifics, but there is a learning curve in any endeavor.

Here in northern NJ, I have grown potted and tubbed citrus for many
years, mostly successfully, but there can be fatal problems with *any*
sort of planting, indoors or out, native or exotic. We do our best,
read up, ask advice online, from libraries, nurseries or extension
services. Such is the delight and adventure of gardening and
maintaining houseplants. Sometimes it works really well, sometimes it
doesn't, but that does not mean anyone should ever be discouraged from
trying. These aren't puppies...they are plants.

I take as a challenge all the attempts to grow out of clime. I am
sure there are few here in my area that can harvest olives in the fall
or have kefir lime leaves whenever the recipe calls for it or have a
indoor bottle brush tree that blooms in January. I have a lot of fun
with a full assortment of fresh herbs in my kitchen all winter and
they look so good among the orchids.

One can have citrus come back from scale and almost total leaf loss.
It can happen.

Boron

On 3/22/2015 9:58 AM, Boron Elgar wrote:
On Sun, 22 Mar 2015 18:27:37 +1100, "David Hare-Scott"
wrote:



Right now the citrus trees have dropped all of their leaves, I guess
from being in a cooler green house and the light cycle being the
winter cycle. Does it matter if he sprays with the oil spray as it
begins to leaf out, or should he try to get that done before it leafs
out?

Your citrus are very sick. They should NOT drop their leaves. You say
they did this last year but recovered, this is not a good sign, they ought
not to do it any year. There are many causes for this including under and
over watering, over fertilising, lack of sun and freezing. An adult orange
will stand a light frost, a tahitian lime will not be happy with any frost.
They will be more suseptible to insect damaged while stressed for whatever
reason.

The further out of its comfort zone you try to grow a plant the more skill
and effort it takes to compensate. If you have neither the right climate
nor the skill and time you are not going to have happy trees.


Growing out of comfort zone is the specific goal of many a specialty
gardener.

Surely it takes care and is best left to someone who understands
specifics, but there is a learning curve in any endeavor.

Here in northern NJ, I have grown potted and tubbed citrus for many
years, mostly successfully, but there can be fatal problems with *any*
sort of planting, indoors or out, native or exotic. We do our best,
read up, ask advice online, from libraries, nurseries or extension
services. Such is the delight and adventure of gardening and
maintaining houseplants. Sometimes it works really well, sometimes it
doesn't, but that does not mean anyone should ever be discouraged from
trying. These aren't puppies...they are plants.

I take as a challenge all the attempts to grow out of clime. I am
sure there are few here in my area that can harvest olives in the fall
or have kefir lime leaves whenever the recipe calls for it or have a
indoor bottle brush tree that blooms in January. I have a lot of fun
with a full assortment of fresh herbs in my kitchen all winter and
they look so good among the orchids.

One can have citrus come back from scale and almost total leaf loss.
It can happen.


We have 4 citrus trees in our green house and they all lose all of their
leaves when we winter them there, but come spring, they leaf out again
just like deciduous trees and bushes. It's kind of cool.


--
Jenn

On Sun, 22 Mar 2015 10:05:27 -0500, Jenn
wrote:

On 3/22/2015 9:58 AM, Boron Elgar wrote:
On Sun, 22 Mar 2015 18:27:37 +1100, "David Hare-Scott"
wrote:



Right now the citrus trees have dropped all of their leaves, I guess
from being in a cooler green house and the light cycle being the
winter cycle. Does it matter if he sprays with the oil spray as it
begins to leaf out, or should he try to get that done before it leafs
out?

Your citrus are very sick. They should NOT drop their leaves. You say
they did this last year but recovered, this is not a good sign, they ought
not to do it any year. There are many causes for this including under and
over watering, over fertilising, lack of sun and freezing. An adult orange
will stand a light frost, a tahitian lime will not be happy with any frost.
They will be more suseptible to insect damaged while stressed for whatever
reason.

The further out of its comfort zone you try to grow a plant the more skill
and effort it takes to compensate. If you have neither the right climate
nor the skill and time you are not going to have happy trees.


Growing out of comfort zone is the specific goal of many a specialty
gardener.

Surely it takes care and is best left to someone who understands
specifics, but there is a learning curve in any endeavor.

Here in northern NJ, I have grown potted and tubbed citrus for many
years, mostly successfully, but there can be fatal problems with *any*
sort of planting, indoors or out, native or exotic. We do our best,
read up, ask advice online, from libraries, nurseries or extension
services. Such is the delight and adventure of gardening and
maintaining houseplants. Sometimes it works really well, sometimes it
doesn't, but that does not mean anyone should ever be discouraged from
trying. These aren't puppies...they are plants.

I take as a challenge all the attempts to grow out of clime. I am
sure there are few here in my area that can harvest olives in the fall
or have kefir lime leaves whenever the recipe calls for it or have a
indoor bottle brush tree that blooms in January. I have a lot of fun
with a full assortment of fresh herbs in my kitchen all winter and
they look so good among the orchids.

One can have citrus come back from scale and almost total leaf loss.
It can happen.


We have 4 citrus trees in our green house and they all lose all of their
leaves when we winter them there, but come spring, they leaf out again
just like deciduous trees and bushes. It's kind of cool.

Even cooler is buying Tropicana OJ! LOL

Boron Elgar wrote:
On Sun, 22 Mar 2015 18:27:37 +1100, "David Hare-Scott"
wrote:



Right now the citrus trees have dropped all of their leaves, I guess
from being in a cooler green house and the light cycle being the
winter cycle. Does it matter if he sprays with the oil spray as it
begins to leaf out, or should he try to get that done before it
leafs out?

Your citrus are very sick. They should NOT drop their leaves. You
say they did this last year but recovered, this is not a good sign,
they ought not to do it any year. There are many causes for this
including under and over watering, over fertilising, lack of sun and
freezing. An adult orange will stand a light frost, a tahitian lime
will not be happy with any frost. They will be more suseptible to
insect damaged while stressed for whatever reason.

The further out of its comfort zone you try to grow a plant the more
skill and effort it takes to compensate. If you have neither the
right climate nor the skill and time you are not going to have happy
trees.


Growing out of comfort zone is the specific goal of many a specialty
gardener.

Surely it takes care and is best left to someone who understands
specifics, but there is a learning curve in any endeavor.

Here in northern NJ, I have grown potted and tubbed citrus for many
years, mostly successfully, but there can be fatal problems with *any*
sort of planting, indoors or out, native or exotic. We do our best,
read up, ask advice online, from libraries, nurseries or extension
services. Such is the delight and adventure of gardening and
maintaining houseplants. Sometimes it works really well, sometimes it
doesn't, but that does not mean anyone should ever be discouraged from
trying. These aren't puppies...they are plants.

I take as a challenge all the attempts to grow out of clime. I am
sure there are few here in my area that can harvest olives in the fall
or have kefir lime leaves whenever the recipe calls for it or have a
indoor bottle brush tree that blooms in January. I have a lot of fun
with a full assortment of fresh herbs in my kitchen all winter and
they look so good among the orchids.

One can have citrus come back from scale and almost total leaf loss.
It can happen.

Boron

Sure you can, never suggested you can't. The more stresses you put on the
plant the less chance it will reach anything like its potential and the more
chance that one more stress will be its last.

--
David

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Corporate propaganda is their
protection against democracy