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#1
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Transplanting Camellias
Has anyone had any success transplanting camellias ? We are in the Hunter
valley and have a three year old plant we want to move - any suggestions? Geoff & Heather |
#2
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Transplanting Camellias
On Sat, 15 Apr 2006 17:44:21 +1000, "Geoff & Heather" wrote:
Has anyone had any success transplanting camellias ? We are in the Hunter valley and have a three year old plant we want to move - any suggestions? I'm assuming the plant was planted 3 years ago and is not just 3 years old. It would have been 3-4 years old in a 200mm bucket when sold, Wait until early July. Apply Seasol 3 weeks before the move then again about 5 days before. Dig a big hole and try to get as much or the roots as you can. Slip something like hessian or plastic under the rootball, lift it out using the hessian or plastic to stop the rootball falling apart and replant into some good soil. I like to use Camellia and Azalea potting mix, even though it is designed for potted plants. It is great in the garden. Apply Seasol again and all should be well. In September give it a little cow manure and some blood and bone. |
#3
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Transplanting Camellias
I think rainman's advice is pretty good but we tried to transplant about 5
camellias awhile ago. Only 1 survived but it was never the same again... Good luck B wrote in message ... On Sat, 15 Apr 2006 17:44:21 +1000, "Geoff & Heather" wrote: Has anyone had any success transplanting camellias ? We are in the Hunter valley and have a three year old plant we want to move - any suggestions? I'm assuming the plant was planted 3 years ago and is not just 3 years old. It would have been 3-4 years old in a 200mm bucket when sold, Wait until early July. Apply Seasol 3 weeks before the move then again about 5 days before. Dig a big hole and try to get as much or the roots as you can. Slip something like hessian or plastic under the rootball, lift it out using the hessian or plastic to stop the rootball falling apart and replant into some good soil. I like to use Camellia and Azalea potting mix, even though it is designed for potted plants. It is great in the garden. Apply Seasol again and all should be well. In September give it a little cow manure and some blood and bone. |
#4
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Transplanting Camellias
Blaircam wrote:
I think rainman's advice is pretty good but we tried to transplant about 5 camellias awhile ago. Only 1 survived but it was never the same again... Good luck B wrote in message ... On Sat, 15 Apr 2006 17:44:21 +1000, "Geoff & Heather" wrote: Has anyone had any success transplanting camellias ? We are in the Hunter valley and have a three year old plant we want to move - any suggestions? I'm assuming the plant was planted 3 years ago and is not just 3 years old. It would have been 3-4 years old in a 200mm bucket when sold, Wait until early July. Apply Seasol 3 weeks before the move then again about 5 days before. Dig a big hole and try to get as much or the roots as you can. Slip something like hessian or plastic under the rootball, lift it out using the hessian or plastic to stop the rootball falling apart and replant into some good soil. I like to use Camellia and Azalea potting mix, even though it is designed for potted plants. It is great in the garden. Apply Seasol again and all should be well. In September give it a little cow manure and some blood and bone. To transplant camelias, keep the season in mind, think of where these came from (they like a shaded place with water running past them like a slope on side of hill) or at least have water regularly. Because of these conditions a south facing wall perhaps not under any eaves (theyve been designed to keep water of the walls and foundations of house)Take a complete rootball and try not to damage the roots. Also note the way the plant was facing the sun and keep it that way if possible. Under shade or full sun depending on the species....I even transplanted some daphnies this way. It worked fine. But a virus got it as it was about to bloom. That can happen anytime. Also make sure theyre healthy to start with as it may not be worth while starting with a sick plant, unless thats the reason to transplant it....Then you take your chances.... |
#5
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Transplanting Camellias
Thanks for the advice - we'll give it a go.
Geoff & Heather "Geoff & Heather" wrote in message u... Has anyone had any success transplanting camellias ? We are in the Hunter valley and have a three year old plant we want to move - any suggestions? Geoff & Heather |
#6
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Transplanting Camellias
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#8
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Transplanting Camellias
Geoff & Heather wrote:
Has anyone had any success transplanting camellias ? We are in the Hunter valley and have a three year old plant we want to move - any suggestions? Geoff & Heather I moved 4 camelia's when I moved into my current house. They seemed to have bounced back OK. 2 were about 1 1/2 m H x 1 m W. The other 2 were not much bigger than what you'd find at a nursery (poor position). In mid-autumn I gave the plant some fish emulsion. A week later I pruned the plant back by about a 1/4 cutting off any flower buds. (You want the plant to conserve energy and you won't remember this year's bloom in a few years time anyway.) At the same time I used a spade to cut a circle around the new drip line to cut the existing roots and encourage a more compact root ball. I was essentially precutting the rootball so that the plant has a few months to adjust to a smaller root system before tearing it out completely. How big you make the circle depends on the size of the plant. Bigger is better but remember you have to lift it without damaging it. Before I cut around the dripline, I sprayed the plant with anti-transpirant (eg Envy) and I gave the plant some more fish emulsion after I cut the roots. I moved the plant In late winter, after the flowering season and when the new shoots are starting to grow. During the wait I prepared the soil in the new bed. I tried to avoid watering outside of the spaded circle (you can't do much about rain) and hand watered within the circle to encourage new roots inside dripline. A few weeks before transplanting I prep'ed plant with fish emulsion. Before transplanting I trimmed the plant back a bit more and sprayed with antitranspirant. I used the circle I cut in autumn as a guide for cutting the rootball. After the move (do it quickly), I gave it a few applications fish emulsion over the next few months and kept the water up to it over the following summer. Adding antitranspirant if dry winds or hot days are expected while the plant is establishing probably isn't a bad idea. I held off fertilising for a few months until the plant had settled in. I didn't let the plants flower the following season. That was about 5 years ago. The plants sulked a little for the first year but within a few years were growing strongly. The transplant preparation may have been overkill but the plants moved and lived so in hindsight i was happy to put in the extra effort. Andrew Melbourne, Victoria |
#9
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Next dig a trench around the outside, first work your way around the tree cutting a sharp circle with a spade, then dig the trench around the outside of that. You'll have to judge how much rootball you'll be able to move, don't be overly optimistic. then work your way under the tree, but before you move it have the next hole ready of course :-) And before you do any of the above, feed it up well so that it has plenty of food to draw on when re-establishing itself. a good reasonably strong soluble fertilizer is what you need. Water in well but only once, you dont want to encourage rot, though this is not likely. Fortunately this is the perfect time to do the job, as the ground is still warm and the weather not too hot. Go Well godwin |
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