In my recent weeks of attention to my new garden beds my lawn has
taken a turn for the worse. Its infested by clover and various other
weeds, and is looking very worse for wear.

Any good suggestions for getting it back in shape? I'm considering a
healthy dosage of weed'n'feed type product, then a liberal scattering
of lawn grass seeds to see if I can get something to grow. However I
think the seasons are all wrong for throwing grass seeds about?

I'm not after champion grade lawn, just something nice, green and
soft. I don't think I really want to go to the expense of laying
turf.

"Dion" wrote in message
...
In my recent weeks of attention to my new garden beds my lawn has
taken a turn for the worse. Its infested by clover and various other
weeds, and is looking very worse for wear.

Any good suggestions for getting it back in shape? I'm considering a
healthy dosage of weed'n'feed type product, then a liberal scattering
of lawn grass seeds to see if I can get something to grow. However I
think the seasons are all wrong for throwing grass seeds about?

I'm not after champion grade lawn, just something nice, green and
soft. I don't think I really want to go to the expense of laying
turf.

Where abouts are you?
It is not really worth doing much until the soil warms up, then the grass is
not dormant.
Unless you are in a really cold zone, using something like maxicrop or
Charlie Carp is a good idea (maybe it will have some benefit in really cold
areas but I have no experience in these areas). These types of products are
not so much fertilisers (though they do have some nutritional value) but
soil conditioners. These will help the lawn to get a running start into
spring.
This time of year the 'weed and feed' things wont work so well either,
because if the weeds are dormant, or growing slowly, then the 'weed' part of
the 'weed and feed' with have minimal effect, as they generally have to be
taken in by the weeds when they are actively growing.

When it warms up mow very low (even scalp it if you feel brave) using a
catcher on your first mow, this will take away any seed heads starting to
form.
After that, don't use a catcher as this removes a lot of organic matter from
you soil. Many mowers can be changed to 'mulching mowers', this is done by
putting in a plastic 'stop' where the catcher goes, some mowers may need new
blades too.

As a general rule, most weeds don't like low mowing, so by doing this is
will put then under stress (I have had good results with getting rid of
clover), then your lawn can compete must better. Raise the cut as the lawn
looks healthier. When it warms up, then it is the best time to fertilise,
when the grass is actively growing and can take it in.

If the root system is healthy then there is no need to spread seed as it
should re-grow, though I can't see how it would do any harm. Just be careful
with the 'weed and feed' products as the 'weed' part may effect newly
germinated seed. As for laying a new lawn, that is a last resort (the
problems with the existing lawn may be the same with a newly laid lawn).

I better stop now, hope this helps, if you want I slightly better than
average lawn there are a few more simple(ish) things you can do (just ask if
you want), but the above is a general guide that should help.

Dave

Lawn tends to rebound back from neglect pretty well. What type is it? If
it's Buffalo you want to avoid the weed n feed products as it doesn't agree
with Buffalo. At this time of year I'd be hauling out the weeds by hand &
giving it a good dose of fertiliser closer to spring as well as ensuring you
water it on your watering days.

...
In my recent weeks of attention to my new garden beds my lawn has
taken a turn for the worse. Its infested by clover and various other
weeds, and is looking very worse for wear.

Any good suggestions for getting it back in shape? I'm considering a
healthy dosage of weed'n'feed type product, then a liberal scattering
of lawn grass seeds to see if I can get something to grow. However I
think the seasons are all wrong for throwing grass seeds about?

I'm not after champion grade lawn, just something nice, green and
soft. I don't think I really want to go to the expense of laying
turf.

On Sun, 20 Jul 2003 21:58:21 +1000, "Dave@fnq"
wrote:

Where abouts are you?

Brisbane.

It is not really worth doing much until the soil warms up, then the grass is
not dormant.
Unless you are in a really cold zone, using something like maxicrop or
Charlie Carp is a good idea (maybe it will have some benefit in really cold
areas but I have no experience in these areas). These types of products are
not so much fertilisers (though they do have some nutritional value) but
soil conditioners. These will help the lawn to get a running start into
spring.
This time of year the 'weed and feed' things wont work so well either,
because if the weeds are dormant, or growing slowly, then the 'weed' part of
the 'weed and feed' with have minimal effect, as they generally have to be
taken in by the weeds when they are actively growing.

These guys are pretty vigorous. We have had a strange winter. In
fact this clover has only set in the in the past few weeks.

When it warms up mow very low (even scalp it if you feel brave) using a
catcher on your first mow, this will take away any seed heads starting to
form.
After that, don't use a catcher as this removes a lot of organic matter from
you soil. Many mowers can be changed to 'mulching mowers', this is done by
putting in a plastic 'stop' where the catcher goes, some mowers may need new
blades too.

Interesting - didn't know this conversion was done simply by blades
and a stopper?

As a general rule, most weeds don't like low mowing, so by doing this is
will put then under stress (I have had good results with getting rid of
clover), then your lawn can compete must better. Raise the cut as the lawn
looks healthier. When it warms up, then it is the best time to fertilise,
when the grass is actively growing and can take it in.

If the root system is healthy then there is no need to spread seed as it
should re-grow, though I can't see how it would do any harm. Just be careful
with the 'weed and feed' products as the 'weed' part may effect newly
germinated seed. As for laying a new lawn, that is a last resort (the
problems with the existing lawn may be the same with a newly laid lawn).

Ah, this is true. I might take a few steps to control the current
outbreak and then see if it bounces back.

I better stop now, hope this helps, if you want I slightly better than
average lawn there are a few more simple(ish) things you can do (just ask if
you want), but the above is a general guide that should help.

Thanks Dave - much appreciated. I have in the past had a reasonable
lawn - I raked up the dead stuff with a stiff metal rake, aerated,
fertilisted etc and it looked good. Sadly neglect is now showing
through and I have to rescue it

On Mon, 21 Jul 2003 18:00:14 +0800, "Wanda" wrote:

Lawn tends to rebound back from neglect pretty well. What type is it? If
it's Buffalo you want to avoid the weed n feed products as it doesn't agree
with Buffalo. At this time of year I'd be hauling out the weeds by hand &
giving it a good dose of fertiliser closer to spring as well as ensuring you
water it on your watering days.

Thanks - no Buffalo in my lawn. Various stuff I have no idea what it
is though!

I pull some of the big stuff out by hand, but there is a LOT of clover

In article ,
Dion wrote:

In my recent weeks of attention to my new garden beds my lawn has
taken a turn for the worse. Its infested by clover and various other
weeds, and is looking very worse for wear.

Any good suggestions for getting it back in shape?

My lawn was infested with broad-leaved weeds a few years back, and (after a
lot of spraying of Roundup at various times of year) I discovered that it was
most effective to squirt the weeds with Roundup just as the lawn started to
grow again in spring. As the weeds slowly died, the grass grew over the
spaces they left, so new weeds had nowhere to get a foothold.

An application of lawn fertiliser probably wouldn't go astray in spring
either. Clover can be killed with a heavy dose of anything nitrogenous -- eg
sulphate of ammonia.

My lawn won't get into any magazines, but it is mostly grass(es) now.

--
Chookie -- Sydney, Australia
(Replace "foulspambegone" with "optushome" to reply)

"...children should continue to be breastfed... for up to two years of age
or beyond." -- Innocenti Declaration, Florence, 1 August 1990

"Dion" wrote in message

After that, don't use a catcher as this removes a lot of organic matter
from
you soil. Many mowers can be changed to 'mulching mowers', this is done
by
putting in a plastic 'stop' where the catcher goes, some mowers may need
new
blades too.

Interesting - didn't know this conversion was done simply by blades
and a stopper?

I'm not sure if it is the same on all models, but my Victa 160 you just put
in the rear stopper, and use the same blades.
On the Honda, the only differece I can see is in the model number, the
mulching mowers end in an 'M'. I have a 195, and according to the catalogue
the same mower as a mulcher is the 195 M. The 'M' comes with the stop, I had
to buy one. I was told I needed new blades, but they look like the same ones
as the ones you use with a catcher. Just make sure the blades have wings on
the rear, they are needed to throw the grass up so it gets chopped finer,
the flat blades are used on mowers that don't have a catcher and are
typically side chute ones.

Dave

"Dion" wrote in message

After that, don't use a catcher as this removes a lot of organic matter
from
you soil. Many mowers can be changed to 'mulching mowers', this is done
by
putting in a plastic 'stop' where the catcher goes, some mowers may need
new
blades too.

Interesting - didn't know this conversion was done simply by blades
and a stopper?

I'm not sure if it is the same on all models, but my Victa 160 you just put
in the rear stopper, and use the same blades.
On the Honda, the only differece I can see is in the model number, the
mulching mowers end in an 'M'. I have a 195, and according to the catalogue
the same mower as a mulcher is the 195 M. The 'M' comes with the stop, I had
to buy one. I was told I needed new blades, but they look like the same ones
as the ones you use with a catcher. Just make sure the blades have wings on
the rear, they are needed to throw the grass up so it gets chopped finer,
the flat blades are used on mowers that don't have a catcher and are
typically side chute ones.

Dave

"Dion" wrote in message

After that, don't use a catcher as this removes a lot of organic matter
from
you soil. Many mowers can be changed to 'mulching mowers', this is done
by
putting in a plastic 'stop' where the catcher goes, some mowers may need
new
blades too.

Interesting - didn't know this conversion was done simply by blades
and a stopper?

I'm not sure if it is the same on all models, but my Victa 160 you just put
in the rear stopper, and use the same blades.
On the Honda, the only differece I can see is in the model number, the
mulching mowers end in an 'M'. I have a 195, and according to the catalogue
the same mower as a mulcher is the 195 M. The 'M' comes with the stop, I had
to buy one. I was told I needed new blades, but they look like the same ones
as the ones you use with a catcher. Just make sure the blades have wings on
the rear, they are needed to throw the grass up so it gets chopped finer,
the flat blades are used on mowers that don't have a catcher and are
typically side chute ones.

Dave

"Dave@fnq" wrote in message .. .
"Dion" wrote in message
...
In my recent weeks of attention to my new garden beds my lawn has
taken a turn for the worse. Its infested by clover and various other
weeds, and is looking very worse for wear.

Any good suggestions for getting it back in shape? I'm considering a
healthy dosage of weed'n'feed type product, then a liberal scattering
of lawn grass seeds to see if I can get something to grow. However I
think the seasons are all wrong for throwing grass seeds about?

I'm not after champion grade lawn, just something nice, green and
soft. I don't think I really want to go to the expense of laying
turf.

snip
This time of year the 'weed and feed' things wont work so well either,
because if the weeds are dormant, or growing slowly, then the 'weed' part of
the 'weed and feed' with have minimal effect, as they generally have to be
taken in by the weeds when they are actively growing.
snip

I'm in Melbourne, and have a problem with Broad Leaf in my nature
strip.
I was going to wait until spring, but finally got fed up with it and
sprayed some weed n feed around on Sunday.
The broadleaf is already dying nicely. I think it will probably take
an additional spray, but it is working very well.
No idea how well the 'feed' part is going to work though.

Good Luck !

May i ask, where do you live in Australia?
A lawn needs just 4 major things Air, water, the right food and sunlight.
Laying turf most likly will not fix the problem, and will be costly when all
it might need is some TLC. Allowing air to get to the roots might be a big
help to the existing grass, if it is not a big area you could take a garden
falk and plunge it down as far as it will go, wriggle it back and forth to
shatter the ground, do this every few inches so that when your finished it
looks like a lawn full of holes (Dont dig the soil over, just shatter it to
about 4-6 inches deep and pull the falk back out) when you finish this,you
could add some sandy loam topdressing water it well and perhaps, depending
where you live give some fertaliser. If you give it the AIR, then some FOOD
and WATER the SUN will do the rest. If the lawn is infested with weeds, i
would say go ahead and wipe them out with some sort of weeder chemical and
once your lawn is well again, weeds shouldn't be too big a problem Hope this
will be of help Happy gardening.

"Dave@fnq" wrote in message
...

"Dion" wrote in message
...
In my recent weeks of attention to my new garden beds my lawn has
taken a turn for the worse. Its infested by clover and various other
weeds, and is looking very worse for wear.

Any good suggestions for getting it back in shape? I'm considering a
healthy dosage of weed'n'feed type product, then a liberal scattering
of lawn grass seeds to see if I can get something to grow. However I
think the seasons are all wrong for throwing grass seeds about?

I'm not after champion grade lawn, just something nice, green and
soft. I don't think I really want to go to the expense of laying
turf.

Where abouts are you?
It is not really worth doing much until the soil warms up, then the grass
is
not dormant.
Unless you are in a really cold zone, using something like maxicrop or
Charlie Carp is a good idea (maybe it will have some benefit in really
cold
areas but I have no experience in these areas). These types of products
are
not so much fertilisers (though they do have some nutritional value) but
soil conditioners. These will help the lawn to get a running start into
spring.
This time of year the 'weed and feed' things wont work so well either,
because if the weeds are dormant, or growing slowly, then the 'weed' part
of
the 'weed and feed' with have minimal effect, as they generally have to be
taken in by the weeds when they are actively growing.

When it warms up mow very low (even scalp it if you feel brave) using a
catcher on your first mow, this will take away any seed heads starting to
form.
After that, don't use a catcher as this removes a lot of organic matter
from
you soil. Many mowers can be changed to 'mulching mowers', this is done by
putting in a plastic 'stop' where the catcher goes, some mowers may need
new
blades too.

As a general rule, most weeds don't like low mowing, so by doing this is
will put then under stress (I have had good results with getting rid of
clover), then your lawn can compete must better. Raise the cut as the lawn
looks healthier. When it warms up, then it is the best time to fertilise,
when the grass is actively growing and can take it in.

If the root system is healthy then there is no need to spread seed as it
should re-grow, though I can't see how it would do any harm. Just be
careful
with the 'weed and feed' products as the 'weed' part may effect newly
germinated seed. As for laying a new lawn, that is a last resort (the
problems with the existing lawn may be the same with a newly laid lawn).

I better stop now, hope this helps, if you want I slightly better than
average lawn there are a few more simple(ish) things you can do (just ask
if
you want), but the above is a general guide that should help.

Dave

"Dion" wrote in message
...
In my recent weeks of attention to my new garden beds my lawn has
taken a turn for the worse. Its infested by clover and various other
weeds, and is looking very worse for wear.

Any good suggestions for getting it back in shape? I'm considering a
healthy dosage of weed'n'feed type product, then a liberal scattering
of lawn grass seeds to see if I can get something to grow. However I
think the seasons are all wrong for throwing grass seeds about?

Probably wait until August for the weed and feed. The weed will kill those
weeds that are currently there, and while the feed may not help the lawn
along as much if you are in a colder area, it will help the weeds die
quicker.
The amount of weeds suggests the pH could be out. Could try a pH tester and
adjust the lawn if needed to about a reading of 6.8 roughly.
Be careful with weed and feed on Buffalo lawns.

After the above, I'd be looking at a lawn seed suitable to your area to over
sow after the weed and feed.
Perennial Rye Grass seed is good for a"green" look, but isn't drought
tolerant.
Whatever seed you do go for, keep the ground moist once sprouted.
Good luck.

I'm not after champion grade lawn, just something nice, green and
soft. I don't think I really want to go to the expense of laying
turf.