Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
soil pH?
hi all
what should the pH be for a vegatable patch? i'm getting pH5 at the moment TIA Mike |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
supposed to be neutral which is around 5.5 to 6.5 i think so you will
be pretty close, me i don't worry about that side of things anymore i just plant 'em and water 'em and they grow, too easy len snipped -- happy gardening 'it works for me it could work for you,' "in the end ya' gotta do what ya' gotta do" but consider others and the environment http://members.optusnet.com.au/~gardenlen1/ my e/mail addies have spam filters you should know what to delete before you send. |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
"len gardener" wrote in message ... supposed to be neutral which is around 5.5 to 6.5 i think so you will be pretty close, me i don't worry about that side of things anymore i just plant 'em and water 'em and they grow, too easy no, neutral is 7.0 but 5.5 to 6.5 is ideal for most plants |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
"MM" wrote in message ... : hi all : : what should the pH be for a vegatable patch? : i'm getting pH5 at the moment : : : TIA : Mike : : It depends on what veges you are growing . As others have said, slightly acid (about 6 - 6.5) suits many but some would like it where you are (eg rhubarb) but most would like it less acid. At pH 5 you will not get 100% out of the lime-loving (pH 7 to 8) types. Such a asparagus, beets, celery, lettuce, onion, spinach and most brassicas. If taking this very seriously we are advised to keep different beds to suit the various requirements, or better still rotate beds and adjust the pH as you go. If this is all too much and you only have one bed I would be adding some garden lime and raising the pH to about 6.5. David |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
"David Hare-Scott" wrote in message ... "MM" wrote in message ... : hi all : : what should the pH be for a vegatable patch? : i'm getting pH5 at the moment : : : TIA : Mike : : It depends on what veges you are growing . As others have said, slightly acid (about 6 - 6.5) suits many but some would like it where you are (eg rhubarb) but most would like it less acid. At pH 5 you will not get 100% out of the lime-loving (pH 7 to 8) types. Such a asparagus, beets, celery, lettuce, onion, spinach and most brassicas. If taking this very seriously we are advised to keep different beds to suit the various requirements, or better still rotate beds and adjust the pH as you go. If this is all too much and you only have one bed I would be adding some garden lime and raising the pH to about 6.5. David I agree with all the above, but would need to be convinced that the pH reading is correct before liming. Unless you are using a meter that you are certain has been properly calibrated and you have taken multiple samples and then followed the correct procedure for measurement, pH readings can be very misleading. For example if the soil is too dry you will not get a correct reading. There are lots of pitfalls with pH measurement, and it is easy to be led up the garden path by single or false readings. Measuring pH and EC is, in my opinion, quite useful. I spend about two days per month taking these measurements at work, and then, if necessary, liming to correct low pH. But from my experience, there is more to it than just chucking a bit of lime about. Much more. |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
"blank" wrote in message ... : :: : I agree with all the above, but would need to be convinced that the pH : reading is correct before liming. Unless you are using a meter that you are : certain has been properly calibrated and you have taken multiple samples and : then followed the correct procedure for measurement, pH readings can be very : misleading. For example if the soil is too dry you will not get a correct : reading. There are lots of pitfalls with pH measurement, and it is easy to : be led up the garden path by single or false readings. : You are assuming the use of a meter. A dye indicator system is more reliable, doesn't need to be callibrated and the soil moisture at the time is not significant. The OP didn't say what they are using IIRC. I agree that taking several measurements is quite important before rushing off to make changes. David |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
"David Hare-Scott" wrote in message ... "blank" wrote in message ... : :: : I agree with all the above, but would need to be convinced that the pH : reading is correct before liming. Unless you are using a meter that you are : certain has been properly calibrated and you have taken multiple samples and : then followed the correct procedure for measurement, pH readings can be very : misleading. For example if the soil is too dry you will not get a correct : reading. There are lots of pitfalls with pH measurement, and it is easy to : be led up the garden path by single or false readings. : You are assuming the use of a meter. A dye indicator system is more reliable, doesn't need to be callibrated and the soil moisture at the time is not significant. The OP didn't say what they are using IIRC. I agree that taking several measurements is quite important before rushing off to make changes. David I have boosted the pH to 6.7 thanks for all the information mike |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
In article , MM
wrote: hi all what should the pH be for a vegatable patch? i'm getting pH5 at the moment TIA Mike Out of curiosity, where are you, and what sort of soil are you on to have a pH that low? Here in Perth, I am sticking vast amounts of manure into the ground and throwing blood and bone around with abandon to bulk up the soil/sand and try to get the pH down a bit. |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
In article , "MM"
wrote: what should the pH be for a vegatable patch? i'm getting pH5 at the moment Take a couple more measurements first in various spots. If they still come out at that pH, start adding lime/dolomite along with compost to improve soil structure. Most vegies like a pH of 6-7, some even more alkaline than that. -- Chookie -- Sydney, Australia (Replace "foulspambegone" with "optushome" to reply) "Life is like a cigarette -- smoke it to the butt." -- Harvie Krumpet |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
In article , ellipsis
wrote: Out of curiosity, where are you, and what sort of soil are you on to have a pH that low? I'm guessing the east. Here in Perth, I am sticking vast amounts of manure into the ground and throwing blood and bone around with abandon to bulk up the soil/sand and try to get the pH down a bit. Under the Perth sand, you have limestone, so your soils tend to be alkaline. IIRC most of Oz tends to be acidic. -- Chookie -- Sydney, Australia (Replace "foulspambegone" with "optushome" to reply) "Life is like a cigarette -- smoke it to the butt." -- Harvie Krumpet |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Forum | |||
Soil for new lawn – type of soil and supplier | Lawns | |||
plant pot soil add sand to the clay soil ? | United Kingdom | |||
Is Garden Magic Top Soil suitable as soil (by itself)? | Gardening | |||
Tarwi can grow in acid soil, fix nitrogen, kill a potato soil nematode, and its seed can yield a gre | Permaculture | |||
recommendations for great top soil or soil with perlite? | North Carolina |