Standard Chinese elm is hardy in the ground in Zone 5, so it and 'Seiju'
should not be a problem in the Philadelphia area.
However, 'Seiju' and probably other Chinese elm cultivars may not actually
drop their dead leaves until January. If you are going to pack them up in a box
or plastic for the winter, you need to remove all the dead leaves by hand
first. My 'Seiju' winters in an unheated sun porch, so I can let the dead leaves
alone.
Iris

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Friends:

There is no such thing as a "standard" when it comes to wintering trees. The question is: how much are you will to risk to the whimsicality of winter? For me, the answer is a resounding. "Not Much."

All need to remember that the hardinest values associated with trees in the wild should not be considered 100% applicable to tree in pots.

When the temperatures drop to near 0 degrees in the evening and the freeze is on for a 2-month period, you will need to question if the twiggy ramifications in your Elms can ward off die-back.

Also, it is difficult to determine if your "zone" is accurate, i.e., many of us live in microclimates. My zone is supposed to be 6, but has strong zone 5 characteristics.

Cordially,

Michael Persiano
members.aol.com/iasnob


-----Original Message-----
From:
To:
Sent: Fri, 9 Sep 2005 08:44:23 EDT
Subject: [IBC] Winterizing Chinese Elm.


Standard Chinese elm is hardy in the ground in Zone 5, so it and 'Seiju'
should not be a problem in the Philadelphia area.
However, 'Seiju' and probably other Chinese elm cultivars may not actually
drop their dead leaves until January. If you are going to pack them up in a box
or plastic for the winter, you need to remove all the dead leaves by hand
first. My 'Seiju' winters in an unheated sun porch, so I can let the dead leaves

alone.
Iris

************************************************** ******************************
++++Sponsored, in part, by Bob Pastorio++++
************************************************** ******************************
-- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ --
+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++

************************************************** ******************************
++++Sponsored, in part, by Bob Pastorio++++
************************************************** ******************************
-- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ --
+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++

Michael is totally right here. It is not worth risking ramification that
one has worked years to develop, or even the total loss of a tree, by
skimping on winter protection. And, as we all know, USDA zone temps are
averages, it can occasionally get much colder than the published numbers.
Also, I am willing to bet that many, if not most, of us are growing bonsai
that would not be hardy in our particular zones if they were out in the
ground. For these trees good winter protection is essential.

My main winter storage area is a cold frame. I have a temperature sensor in
it, and it never gets colder than 25 deg. F, even when the outside air temp
has dropped to -10 or -15 F. This allows me to confidently keep material
that would never survive here without protection. A decent cold frame is
not that hard to construct, and is well worth the effort when you consider
the time and money we all invest in our trees.

Regards,
Roger Snipes
Spokane, WA. Zone 5-ish


----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Persiano" :

There is no such thing as a "standard" when it comes to wintering trees.
The question is: how much are you will to risk to the whimsicality of
winter? For me, the answer is a resounding. "Not Much."


************************************************** ******************************
++++Sponsored, in part, by Bob Pastorio++++
************************************************** ******************************
-- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ --
+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++