Khaimraj: I doubt that root tips are moving around sharp soil particles or are
split by them. However, soil with sharp particles tends to drain better. Good
drainage in a container usually means healthier plants.
The Grewia you describe had a bad situation. It is tempting to do an
incomplete repotting sometimes, but the situation you describe is unhealthy and
potentially lethal to your tree. Trees planted with dense clay around the base and
looser soil at the edges will tend to have problems with the clay area drying out
while water readily seeks the looser soil through which it can drain. This is true
of both container and ground plantings. People make a big mistake when they plant a
balled and burlapped tree in the ground without loosening up the soil packed around
the roots. It's even worse in the limited confines of a container. You then have
two or three different moisture zones and effective watering is nearly impossible.
Sometimes the tree can take a joke and survive, but it is a poor horticultural
practice.
Better luck next time.
Alan Walker, Lake Charles, LA, USA
http://LCBSBonsai.org http://bonsai-bci.com
================================
Khaimraj Seepersad wrote:
SNIP
A question Jim or anyone.
Do sharp ingredients in the soil mix [crushed sifted
brick or crushed sifted silica gravel or other] really
give one more root branching and better branching above
soil ? [Because the root tips move around the sharp particles.]

I read this years ago and never questioned it.

Reason for asking I just lost a Grewia Caffra, because I
stupidly forgot to change the soil mix the plant came it
[high clay crap] and just potted on into a 2 gallon pot.
Was a 8 x 8 x 8 " pot originally.

Result after 3 years and much growth. I cut away half of
the root and didn't realise all the feeders were in my mix
not the original soil. The plant slowly dried.

Starting over, but wondering if a mix with sharp ingredients
would really make a difference?
[Starting over with a 1/3 of a 55 gallon plastic barrel, I have
3 years to make up for. Bah Humbug.]
Thanks for any responses.
Khaimraj
[West Indies/Caribbean,
Sempre Spring zone.]

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Good Day to All,
Alan,

normally I develop what I call the - CORE - for a bonsai
tree.Essentially for the first five years [ since I work mostly
from cuttings and seeds,this is simple]I get the tree to develop
a root ball.
As my soil is essentially 2/3's or so inorganic and 1/3 organic,
I expect the organic part to powder.
After a time,the powder washes out,but the inorganic stays to
form the core,the spaces left are yearly refilled with more
organic particles.moving down as they decay and then powder.The
cycle continues.

After 5 years,I begin to remove pie sections,to prevent the
re-establishment of a tap root.Alternating the pie slices every
3 to 5 years.
I have to record this in my logbook as it is too much to commit to
memory.
Thus far the technique works.I haven't lost any of my trees started
from cuttings or seed.

However,I will slack off with new trees from time to time and then
I get burnt.

Aside.I have also noticed that trees allowed to dry out too heavily
have soils that repel the water.So unless you remember to just
sprinkle with water to wet the top of the soil and wait for say half
and hour.Watering a dry soil [ but not wilting tree ],will end up with
the water just taking the easiest passages out of the pot.
Normally down a side wall or through some part in the centre.
Then you get surprise wilting the next day.

So now I water the top of the soil and wet the leaves of trees in the
evening,half an hour before the sun sets.Enough time for the wind
to dry the trees,the evaporation cooling them,the soil remains
moist and able absorb water easily at around 6.00 a.m in the morning.
Morning time it's two waterings to get the slow dripping,needed for
the hot day.

I shall print your response and tack it up outside near my children,
and end the slacking off.

This new Grewia will have to wait until January 2nd for repotting,
as we are in the dry season,and I don't like to re-pot in the wet
season,too much water.The tree is unable to control the soil.
Khaimraj
[West Indies/Caribbean,
Sempre Spring Zone]

-----Original Message-----
From: Alan Walker
To:
Date: 23 April 2003 12:18
Subject: [IBC] Sharp Particles & Moisture Zones (was collecting trees)


Khaimraj: I doubt that root tips are moving around sharp soil particles or
are
split by them. However, soil with sharp particles tends to drain better.
Good
drainage in a container usually means healthier plants.
The Grewia you describe had a bad situation. It is tempting to do
an
incomplete repotting sometimes, but the situation you describe is unhealthy
and
potentially lethal to your tree. Trees planted with dense clay around the
base and
looser soil at the edges will tend to have problems with the clay area
drying out
while water readily seeks the looser soil through which it can drain. This
is true
of both container and ground plantings. People make a big mistake when
they plant a
balled and burlapped tree in the ground without loosening up the soil
packed around
the roots. It's even worse in the limited confines of a container. You
then have
two or three different moisture zones and effective watering is nearly
impossible.
Sometimes the tree can take a joke and survive, but it is a poor
horticultural
practice.
Better luck next time.
Alan Walker, Lake Charles, LA, USA
http://LCBSBonsai.org http://bonsai-bci.com

************************************************** ******************************
++++Sponsored, in part, by Evergreen Gardenworks++++
************************************************** ******************************
-- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ --
+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++