Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
#16
|
|||
|
|||
[IBC] Training Black Pine was growth retardant
Hopefully Brent or someone else with actual experience will answer this (or
correct me so that I don't kill a branch this spring).... My understanding is that you can cut a healthy pine at ^b. As long as there are green needles remaining, the branch can be cut and will produce buds - there is always the hope (possibility) that you will get some dormant buds to pop in the ^c area as well. Jeff Isom Cleveland, OH / Sunset Zone 39 snip ---*----*----* ^c ^b ^a OK if the above is a pine branch and you are reading right to left, with the right * being the tip, can you cut only before the second node (represented by the * and ^a )or can you actually cut at ^b if you have needles below? I take it that cutting at ^c probably will kill the branch unless there were needles below that. Kitsune Miko ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Marc Zimmerman++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
#17
|
|||
|
|||
[IBC] Training Black Pine was growth retardant
Hopefully Brent or someone else with actual experience will answer this (or
correct me so that I don't kill a branch this spring).... My understanding is that you can cut a healthy pine at ^b. As long as there are green needles remaining, the branch can be cut and will produce buds - there is always the hope (possibility) that you will get some dormant buds to pop in the ^c area as well. Jeff Isom Cleveland, OH / Sunset Zone 39 snip ---*----*----* ^c ^b ^a OK if the above is a pine branch and you are reading right to left, with the right * being the tip, can you cut only before the second node (represented by the * and ^a )or can you actually cut at ^b if you have needles below? I take it that cutting at ^c probably will kill the branch unless there were needles below that. Kitsune Miko ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Marc Zimmerman++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
#18
|
|||
|
|||
[IBC] Training Black Pine was growth retardant
At 12:30 PM 1/29/04 -0800, you wrote:
---*----*----* ^c ^b ^a OK if the above is a pine branch and you are reading right to left, with the right * being the tip, can you cut only before the second node (represented by the * and ^a )or can you actually cut at ^b if you have needles below? I take it that cutting at ^c probably will kill the branch unless there were needles below that. Kitsune Miko Kitsune Yes, you can cut at 'b' if the internode before it still has needles. In some locations that have very long growing seasons, you may even have three internodal areas with needles. As long as the remaining internodal section still has needles, it is _generally_ safe to cut the node off. Before someone lays a disaster at my door, let me add the disclaimer that this usually, but not always, works. It is not a guaranteed thing, sometimes they will indeed die. Timely cutting of very healthy trees increases your chances of success. If you want to drastically increase your chances, or this is a branch you can't possibly afford to lose, then leave the node. Brent in Northern California Evergreen Gardenworks USDA Zone 8 Sunset Zone 14 http://www.EvergreenGardenworks.com ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Marc Zimmerman++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
#19
|
|||
|
|||
[IBC] Training Black Pine was growth retardant
At 12:30 PM 1/29/04 -0800, you wrote:
---*----*----* ^c ^b ^a OK if the above is a pine branch and you are reading right to left, with the right * being the tip, can you cut only before the second node (represented by the * and ^a )or can you actually cut at ^b if you have needles below? I take it that cutting at ^c probably will kill the branch unless there were needles below that. Kitsune Miko Kitsune Yes, you can cut at 'b' if the internode before it still has needles. In some locations that have very long growing seasons, you may even have three internodal areas with needles. As long as the remaining internodal section still has needles, it is _generally_ safe to cut the node off. Before someone lays a disaster at my door, let me add the disclaimer that this usually, but not always, works. It is not a guaranteed thing, sometimes they will indeed die. Timely cutting of very healthy trees increases your chances of success. If you want to drastically increase your chances, or this is a branch you can't possibly afford to lose, then leave the node. Brent in Northern California Evergreen Gardenworks USDA Zone 8 Sunset Zone 14 http://www.EvergreenGardenworks.com ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Marc Zimmerman++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
#20
|
|||
|
|||
[IBC] Training Black Pine was growth retardant
At 12:30 PM 1/29/04 -0800, you wrote:
---*----*----* ^c ^b ^a OK if the above is a pine branch and you are reading right to left, with the right * being the tip, can you cut only before the second node (represented by the * and ^a )or can you actually cut at ^b if you have needles below? I take it that cutting at ^c probably will kill the branch unless there were needles below that. Kitsune Miko Kitsune Yes, you can cut at 'b' if the internode before it still has needles. In some locations that have very long growing seasons, you may even have three internodal areas with needles. As long as the remaining internodal section still has needles, it is _generally_ safe to cut the node off. Before someone lays a disaster at my door, let me add the disclaimer that this usually, but not always, works. It is not a guaranteed thing, sometimes they will indeed die. Timely cutting of very healthy trees increases your chances of success. If you want to drastically increase your chances, or this is a branch you can't possibly afford to lose, then leave the node. Brent in Northern California Evergreen Gardenworks USDA Zone 8 Sunset Zone 14 http://www.EvergreenGardenworks.com ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Marc Zimmerman++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
#21
|
|||
|
|||
[IBC] Training Black Pine was growth retardant
I have pines in the ground that I was training to send
my son through college, (he is 33 and finished with schooling. This project has been going on for 20 to 25 years). I was a beginner when I started this project. It has been an interesting learning experience. My successes and failures have all been by trial and error. I started with 2 year old bare root seedlings, cut part of the tap root and just stuck them in the ground. I fed randomly. My pines are in clay soil that was well augmented to be a vegtable garden, but I water with grey water ane the ground has settled. The trees are not all healthy. When I cut back to needles without an internode below, I get guaranteed die off. There is wonderful nebari on these trees in the ground. I am thinking of starting to dig them up, pot them for a coule of years, and perhaps again augment the growing area, dump the grey water elsewhere and see how it goes. .....in my spare time between working full time and also doing other arts. Kitsune Miko --- "Isom, Jeff (EM, PTL)" wrote: Hopefully Brent or someone else with actual experience will answer this (or correct me so that I don't kill a branch this spring).... My understanding is that you can cut a healthy pine at ^b. As long as there are green needles remaining, the branch can be cut and will produce buds - there is always the hope (possibility) that you will get some dormant buds to pop in the ^c area as well. Jeff Isom Cleveland, OH / Sunset Zone 39 snip ---*----*----* ^c ^b ^a OK if the above is a pine branch and you are reading right to left, with the right * being the tip, can you cut only before the second node (represented by the * and ^a )or can you actually cut at ^b if you have needles below? I take it that cutting at ^c probably will kill the branch unless there were needles below that. Kitsune Miko ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Marc Zimmerman++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Marc Zimmerman++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
#22
|
|||
|
|||
[IBC] Training Black Pine was growth retardant
I have pines in the ground that I was training to send
my son through college, (he is 33 and finished with schooling. This project has been going on for 20 to 25 years). I was a beginner when I started this project. It has been an interesting learning experience. My successes and failures have all been by trial and error. I started with 2 year old bare root seedlings, cut part of the tap root and just stuck them in the ground. I fed randomly. My pines are in clay soil that was well augmented to be a vegtable garden, but I water with grey water ane the ground has settled. The trees are not all healthy. When I cut back to needles without an internode below, I get guaranteed die off. There is wonderful nebari on these trees in the ground. I am thinking of starting to dig them up, pot them for a coule of years, and perhaps again augment the growing area, dump the grey water elsewhere and see how it goes. .....in my spare time between working full time and also doing other arts. Kitsune Miko --- "Isom, Jeff (EM, PTL)" wrote: Hopefully Brent or someone else with actual experience will answer this (or correct me so that I don't kill a branch this spring).... My understanding is that you can cut a healthy pine at ^b. As long as there are green needles remaining, the branch can be cut and will produce buds - there is always the hope (possibility) that you will get some dormant buds to pop in the ^c area as well. Jeff Isom Cleveland, OH / Sunset Zone 39 snip ---*----*----* ^c ^b ^a OK if the above is a pine branch and you are reading right to left, with the right * being the tip, can you cut only before the second node (represented by the * and ^a )or can you actually cut at ^b if you have needles below? I take it that cutting at ^c probably will kill the branch unless there were needles below that. Kitsune Miko ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Marc Zimmerman++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Marc Zimmerman++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
#23
|
|||
|
|||
[IBC] Training Black Pine was growth retardant
I have pines in the ground that I was training to send
my son through college, (he is 33 and finished with schooling. This project has been going on for 20 to 25 years). I was a beginner when I started this project. It has been an interesting learning experience. My successes and failures have all been by trial and error. I started with 2 year old bare root seedlings, cut part of the tap root and just stuck them in the ground. I fed randomly. My pines are in clay soil that was well augmented to be a vegtable garden, but I water with grey water ane the ground has settled. The trees are not all healthy. When I cut back to needles without an internode below, I get guaranteed die off. There is wonderful nebari on these trees in the ground. I am thinking of starting to dig them up, pot them for a coule of years, and perhaps again augment the growing area, dump the grey water elsewhere and see how it goes. .....in my spare time between working full time and also doing other arts. Kitsune Miko --- "Isom, Jeff (EM, PTL)" wrote: Hopefully Brent or someone else with actual experience will answer this (or correct me so that I don't kill a branch this spring).... My understanding is that you can cut a healthy pine at ^b. As long as there are green needles remaining, the branch can be cut and will produce buds - there is always the hope (possibility) that you will get some dormant buds to pop in the ^c area as well. Jeff Isom Cleveland, OH / Sunset Zone 39 snip ---*----*----* ^c ^b ^a OK if the above is a pine branch and you are reading right to left, with the right * being the tip, can you cut only before the second node (represented by the * and ^a )or can you actually cut at ^b if you have needles below? I take it that cutting at ^c probably will kill the branch unless there were needles below that. Kitsune Miko ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Marc Zimmerman++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Marc Zimmerman++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
#24
|
|||
|
|||
[IBC] Training Black Pine was growth retardant
Hopefully Brent or someone else with actual experience will answer this (or
correct me so that I don't kill a branch this spring).... My understanding is that you can cut a healthy pine at ^b. As long as there are green needles remaining, the branch can be cut and will produce buds - there is always the hope (possibility) that you will get some dormant buds to pop in the ^c area as well. Jeff Isom Cleveland, OH / Sunset Zone 39 snip ---*----*----* ^c ^b ^a OK if the above is a pine branch and you are reading right to left, with the right * being the tip, can you cut only before the second node (represented by the * and ^a )or can you actually cut at ^b if you have needles below? I take it that cutting at ^c probably will kill the branch unless there were needles below that. Kitsune Miko ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Marc Zimmerman++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
#25
|
|||
|
|||
[IBC] Training Black Pine was growth retardant
At 12:30 PM 1/29/04 -0800, you wrote:
---*----*----* ^c ^b ^a OK if the above is a pine branch and you are reading right to left, with the right * being the tip, can you cut only before the second node (represented by the * and ^a )or can you actually cut at ^b if you have needles below? I take it that cutting at ^c probably will kill the branch unless there were needles below that. Kitsune Miko Kitsune Yes, you can cut at 'b' if the internode before it still has needles. In some locations that have very long growing seasons, you may even have three internodal areas with needles. As long as the remaining internodal section still has needles, it is _generally_ safe to cut the node off. Before someone lays a disaster at my door, let me add the disclaimer that this usually, but not always, works. It is not a guaranteed thing, sometimes they will indeed die. Timely cutting of very healthy trees increases your chances of success. If you want to drastically increase your chances, or this is a branch you can't possibly afford to lose, then leave the node. Brent in Northern California Evergreen Gardenworks USDA Zone 8 Sunset Zone 14 http://www.EvergreenGardenworks.com ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Marc Zimmerman++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
Reply |
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Forum | |||
growth retardant | Gardening | |||
[IBC] Fw: growth retardant | Bonsai | |||
[IBC] Training Black Pine was growth retardant | Bonsai | |||
[IBC] Training Black Pine was growth retardant | Bonsai | |||
growth retardant | Gardening |