I have several maples. In my area the maples have to growth periods. In the
spring and late summer. I do my prunung during these 2 growth periods. I
wouldn't prune my trees anymore this year. Next spring iis more suitable

SteveW


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Steve wachs wrote:

I have several maples. In my area the maples have to growth periods. In the
spring and late summer. I do my prunung during these 2 growth periods. I
wouldn't prune my trees anymore this year. Next spring iis more suitable

SteveW

thanks Steve , but my pruning was intended not on the year's fresh
growth , it is a general pruning to keep the tree in shape and enhance
vigor of the remaining buds for the next year 05 growth .


my idea is the following
the sap is inside and nourishing a lot a buds. many of them will be
cut in early spring before they will break out .. as I need to shape
my tree up

so If I cut them now.. will this action stimulate the growth of new
back buds for a better spring 05?
thanks



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Steve wachs wrote:

I have several maples. In my area the maples have to growth periods. In the
spring and late summer. I do my prunung during these 2 growth periods. I
wouldn't prune my trees anymore this year. Next spring iis more suitable

SteveW

thanks Steve , but my pruning was intended not on the year's fresh
growth , it is a general pruning to keep the tree in shape and enhance
vigor of the remaining buds for the next year 05 growth .


my idea is the following
the sap is inside and nourishing a lot a buds. many of them will be
cut in early spring before they will break out .. as I need to shape
my tree up

so If I cut them now.. will this action stimulate the growth of new
back buds for a better spring 05?
thanks



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If i undrstand you correctly, I belive what I do in the early spring is the same thing as what you want to do now. I do not know if prunung in the late fall will have the same effect.
I do not want to stimilate growth now. My trees are wintered in a greenhouse. Temps stay just over 32*f. Spring starts in February. I uually prune and repot by early march. I wait until the buds arw just about to open. that's when I do my pruning and repotting. I do hard pruning in the late summer as well, when maples start their late season growth

--
SteveW
Long Island NY

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If i undrstand you correctly, I belive what I do in the early spring is the same thing as what you want to do now. I do not know if prunung in the late fall will have the same effect.
I do not want to stimilate growth now. My trees are wintered in a greenhouse. Temps stay just over 32*f. Spring starts in February. I uually prune and repot by early march. I wait until the buds arw just about to open. that's when I do my pruning and repotting. I do hard pruning in the late summer as well, when maples start their late season growth

--
SteveW
Long Island NY

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hi Steve
Steve wachs wrote:

If i undrstand you correctly, I belive what I do in the early spring is the

same thing as what you want to do now.

that's right


I do not know if prunung in the

late fall will have the same effect.


I was wondering if pruning now might stimulate the remaining buds for
a better break out in the following spring

I do not want to stimilate growth now. My trees are wintered in a greenhouse. of course not , it is not the season mine will be in there too


Temps stay just over 32*f. Spring starts in February.

I uually prune and repot by early march.

me too


I wait until the buds arw just about to open.
correct

that's

when I do my pruning and repotting. I do hard pruning

in the late summer as well, when maples start their late season growth
so do I ...
well I'll wait as usual for march for pruning
...
thanks again



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hi Steve
Steve wachs wrote:

If i undrstand you correctly, I belive what I do in the early spring is the

same thing as what you want to do now.

that's right


I do not know if prunung in the

late fall will have the same effect.


I was wondering if pruning now might stimulate the remaining buds for
a better break out in the following spring

I do not want to stimilate growth now. My trees are wintered in a greenhouse. of course not , it is not the season mine will be in there too


Temps stay just over 32*f. Spring starts in February.

I uually prune and repot by early march.

me too


I wait until the buds arw just about to open.
correct

that's

when I do my pruning and repotting. I do hard pruning

in the late summer as well, when maples start their late season growth
so do I ...
well I'll wait as usual for march for pruning
...
thanks again



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Private Mail :
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Hi
I hear it called pinching back, but I do the same thing as you describe, except i do not do it before I put the trees away for the winter. This is done in the spring.
i feel it's better to let the trees go dormant. for at least 3 months.
--
SteveW
Long Island NY

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Hi
I hear it called pinching back, but I do the same thing as you describe, except i do not do it before I put the trees away for the winter. This is done in the spring.
i feel it's better to let the trees go dormant. for at least 3 months.
--
SteveW
Long Island NY

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On 25 Oct 2004 at 11:21, Steve wachs wrote:

Hi I hear it called pinching back, but I do the same thing as
you describe, except i do not do it before I put the trees
away for the winter. This is done in the spring. i feel it's
better to let the trees go dormant. for at least 3 months. --


Pinching back is what you do to long shoots in the spring.

The fall pruning, removes the terminal bud, forcing the tree to
put its energy into the (smaller) buds farther back on the
branches. This tends both to promote more side branches AND
smaller leaves.

Rather than _cutting_ off the end of the branch, I prefer to
carefully break off the terminal bud with my fingers, leaving
the vestigial buds that exist immediately under the terminals.
This, too, promotes smaller leaves, shorter internodes, and
better branching.

I do this with all deciduous trees.

Thanks to Brent W. for suggesting this for my sweetgum bonsai a
few years ago, It has helped. (But sweetgum still may be
marginal for "good" bonsai.)

Jim Lewis - - Tallahassee, FL - When we see
land as a community to which we belong, we may begin to use it
with love and respect - Aldo Leopold - A Sand County Almanac

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Jim's right. Pinching and dis-budding are two different operations and have
two different purposes.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Lewis"
To:
Sent: Monday, October 25, 2004 3:58 PM
Subject: [IBC] Maples pruning


On 25 Oct 2004 at 11:21, Steve wachs wrote:

Hi I hear it called pinching back, but I do the same thing as
you describe, except i do not do it before I put the trees
away for the winter. This is done in the spring. i feel it's
better to let the trees go dormant. for at least 3 months. --


Pinching back is what you do to long shoots in the spring.

The fall pruning, removes the terminal bud, forcing the tree to
put its energy into the (smaller) buds farther back on the
branches. This tends both to promote more side branches AND
smaller leaves.

Rather than _cutting_ off the end of the branch, I prefer to
carefully break off the terminal bud with my fingers, leaving
the vestigial buds that exist immediately under the terminals.
This, too, promotes smaller leaves, shorter internodes, and
better branching.

I do this with all deciduous trees.

Thanks to Brent W. for suggesting this for my sweetgum bonsai a
few years ago, It has helped. (But sweetgum still may be
marginal for "good" bonsai.)

Jim Lewis - - Tallahassee, FL - When we see
land as a community to which we belong, we may begin to use it
with love and respect - Aldo Leopold - A Sand County Almanac

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++++Sponsored, in part, by Boon Manakitivipart++++
************************************************** ******************************
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+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++


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In a message dated 10/25/2004 1:15:23 PM Eastern Standard Time,
writes:


I have been tip pruning all my maples (and most other deciduous trees)
before I put them away for the winter. I wait until they are truly dormant, a few
weeks after, leaf fall, when danger of sap rising on a warm day is minimized
(Late Oct.-Mid Nov. here in zone 5). I think mid-too-late Winter would be
better but most of my Winter stored trees are hard to get to by then. Late Fall
before I put them away just works for me. I make a point to trim all the
dominant tip bud pairs, I believe these buds send a chemical signal down the
branch that keeps the dormant buds dormant. I think by removing the dominant bud
pair and stopping that signal some of the dormant buds are spurred into
growth. By doing this, late fall I think those dormant buds get a signal to grow
the whole Winter, a long steady push to grow. When Spring comes I have found I
have many choices of buds to leave and ones that need to be removed,
sometimes I find more then a dozen from certain growth points. When I tip prune late
Fall I prune at least an 1/8 of an inch above the pair of buds (horizontal
bud pair not perpendicular pair) that allows for a little sap withdrawal, die
back. The die back always seems to stop at the first bud pair after cut
point, like I want it to.

Doug Taylor


my problem is that in the fall i have some great ideas for the spring. The
problem is My brain does not work as well in the spring. What I do for this is
I use rwist ties and tooth picks.
i use the twist ties to matk branches that need to be removed or shortened.
I use toothpicks to mark the fron of the tree I am going to pot or work on




SteveW
Long Island NY


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HI Steve

Steve wachs wrote:

In a message dated 10/25/2004 1:15:23 PM Eastern Standard Time,
writes:


I have been tip pruning all my maples (and most other deciduous trees)
before I put them away for the winter. I wait until they are truly dormant, a few
weeks after, leaf fall, when danger of sap rising on a warm day is minimized
(Late Oct.-Mid Nov. here in zone 5). I think mid-too-late Winter would be
better but most of my Winter stored trees are hard to get to by then. Late Fall
before I put them away just works for me. I make a point to trim all the
dominant tip bud pairs, I believe these buds send a chemical signal down the
branch that keeps the dormant buds dormant. I think by removing the dominant bud
pair and stopping that signal some of the dormant buds are spurred into
growth. By doing this, late fall I think those dormant buds get a signal to grow
the whole Winter, a long steady push to grow. When Spring comes I have found I
have many choices of buds to leave and ones that need to be removed,
sometimes I find more then a dozen from certain growth points. When I tip prune late
Fall I prune at least an 1/8 of an inch above the pair of buds (horizontal
bud pair not perpendicular pair) that allows for a little sap withdrawal, die
back. The die back always seems to stop at the first bud pair after cut
point, like I want it to.
it sounds interesting .. but do you notice something different in
spring ? a better growth of beck buds on the branch or trunk?



Doug Taylor


my problem is that in the fall i have some great ideas for the spring. The
problem is My brain does not work as well in the spring. What I do for this is
I use rwist ties and tooth picks.
i use the twist ties to matk branches that need to be removed or shortened.
I use toothpicks to mark the fron of the tree I am going to pot or work on


so do I
I put red wire rings on twigs that has to be removed or shortened ,
and I use a wooden skewer to remove unwanted buds when still dormants

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