Make Your Own Fruit Tree. Hand's on instruction for grafting a fruit
tree. There is a small fee for materials, and you get to take home
whatever trees you make. You can select from many varieties of
apples, pears, plums, etc. Visit www.midfex.org to learn more.
Midfex stands for Midwest Fruit Explorers, a not for profit group
which trys to encourage growing fruit, berries, and nuts in people's
backyards.

SUNDAY, April 23th
Cantigny greenhouse in Wheaton, IL.
Lecture starts promptly at 1 PM and runs until 4 PM.

Sherwin D.

There is also a grafting class in Green Bay, WI on April 22 at the Ag &
Extension Serice Center, 1150 Bellevue St. starting at 9am. Apples scions
and rootstocks are available for folks to try grafting themselves. Call the
UWEX office at (920) 391-4653.

"sherwindu" wrote in message
...
Make Your Own Fruit Tree. Hand's on instruction for grafting a fruit
tree. There is a small fee for materials, and you get to take home
whatever trees you make. You can select from many varieties of
apples, pears, plums, etc. Visit www.midfex.org to learn more.
Midfex stands for Midwest Fruit Explorers, a not for profit group
which trys to encourage growing fruit, berries, and nuts in people's
backyards.

SUNDAY, April 23th
Cantigny greenhouse in Wheaton, IL.
Lecture starts promptly at 1 PM and runs until 4 PM.

Sherwin D.

Does anyone know of a class in the Baltimore area? I've read books on the
subject and think that I'm doing everything right but my grafts never work.

Paul



"John Kring" wrote in message
...
There is also a grafting class in Green Bay, WI on April 22 at the Ag &
Extension Serice Center, 1150 Bellevue St. starting at 9am. Apples scions
and rootstocks are available for folks to try grafting themselves. Call
the
UWEX office at (920) 391-4653.

"sherwindu" wrote in message
...
Make Your Own Fruit Tree. Hand's on instruction for grafting a fruit
tree. There is a small fee for materials, and you get to take home
whatever trees you make. You can select from many varieties of
apples, pears, plums, etc. Visit www.midfex.org to learn more.
Midfex stands for Midwest Fruit Explorers, a not for profit group
which trys to encourage growing fruit, berries, and nuts in people's
backyards.

SUNDAY, April 23th
Cantigny greenhouse in Wheaton, IL.
Lecture starts promptly at 1 PM and runs until 4 PM.

Sherwin D.

I've done a lot of successful grafting. What types of grafts are you doing
and what happens after you do the grafts? Anything?
John

"Pavel314" wrote in message
...
Does anyone know of a class in the Baltimore area? I've read books on the
subject and think that I'm doing everything right but my grafts never
work.

Paul



"John Kring" wrote in message
...
There is also a grafting class in Green Bay, WI on April 22 at the Ag &
Extension Serice Center, 1150 Bellevue St. starting at 9am. Apples
scions
and rootstocks are available for folks to try grafting themselves. Call
the
UWEX office at (920) 391-4653.

"sherwindu" wrote in message
...
Make Your Own Fruit Tree. Hand's on instruction for grafting a fruit
tree. There is a small fee for materials, and you get to take home
whatever trees you make. You can select from many varieties of
apples, pears, plums, etc. Visit www.midfex.org to learn more.
Midfex stands for Midwest Fruit Explorers, a not for profit group
which trys to encourage growing fruit, berries, and nuts in people's
backyards.

SUNDAY, April 23th
Cantigny greenhouse in Wheaton, IL.
Lecture starts promptly at 1 PM and runs until 4 PM.

Sherwin D.

"John Kring" wrote in message
...
I've done a lot of successful grafting. What types of grafts are you
doing
and what happens after you do the grafts? Anything?
John


John,

I've tried grafting apple trees and grape vines. After grafting, the grafts
shrivel up and die. I've paid close attention to getting the cambium in
contact and dressed the joins with grafting wax. I've tried bud grafts, whip
grafts and cleft grafts, all with the same bad results. I'm obviously doing
something wrong; what would you say is the most common mistake made by
beginning grafters?

Thanks,

Paul

I can't think of a better place [than Chicago] to have a workshop on graft.

Best regards,
Bob

Paul,
I have only done whip grafts. Like you I make sure the cambiums are
together. I do not use grafting wax. Instead I wrap the graft tightly with
rubber electrical tape (this isn't the regular electrical tape that's used,
it's more like rubber and stretches, I've found it at Menards) so that it
covers the entire graft area and then I coat it with a water based grafting
compound (I used a product called TreeKote, comes in a yellow plastic
container)

Here's two links to a good site for grafting:
http://www.extension.umn.edu/distrib...re/DG0532.html

http://www.extension.umn.edu/distrib...nts/DG0532c.ht
ml



Again I've only done whip grafting but I'd say that over 95% of my grafts
take.

One other important thing, make sure that your scion wood and root stocks
are not exposed to ethylene gas. Fruit in your refrigerator gives off this
gas so if you store your scion wood in a refrigerator with fruit it will
damage your scion wood. This site talks about ethylene gas and grafting:
http://pubs.cas.psu.edu/FreePubs/pdfs/UJ255.pdf

If your scion wood is bad you can buy more from someone like Maple Valley
Orchards www.maplevalleyorchards.com

Good luck!!
John



"Pavel314" wrote in message
...
"John Kring" wrote in message
...
I've done a lot of successful grafting. What types of grafts are you
doing
and what happens after you do the grafts? Anything?
John


John,

I've tried grafting apple trees and grape vines. After grafting, the
grafts
shrivel up and die. I've paid close attention to getting the cambium in
contact and dressed the joins with grafting wax. I've tried bud grafts,
whip
grafts and cleft grafts, all with the same bad results. I'm obviously
doing
something wrong; what would you say is the most common mistake made by
beginning grafters?

Thanks,

Paul

One thing you don't mention is a rubber band wrap. Tightly wrapping with a
rubber
band squeezes the two pieces together for better contact. Over that, I usually
use a
product called Para-film. It is a stretchy material, but differs from the
electrical tape
in that it allows air, but not moisture to pass through it. It is sold as both
a dressing for wounds and a special version for grafting. You should be sure
the scion wood is
dormant before attaching. Trim all but three of the closest buds above the
graft.
Trim off any competing leaves, but leave another branch or two untouched to help

the rootstock to survive in case the graft doesn't take and you want to re-use
it next
season. You should be seeing an improvement in your success rate if you follow
the
above steps.

Sherwin D.

Pavel314 wrote:

"John Kring" wrote in message
...
I've done a lot of successful grafting. What types of grafts are you
doing
and what happens after you do the grafts? Anything?
John

John,

I've tried grafting apple trees and grape vines. After grafting, the grafts
shrivel up and die. I've paid close attention to getting the cambium in
contact and dressed the joins with grafting wax. I've tried bud grafts, whip
grafts and cleft grafts, all with the same bad results. I'm obviously doing
something wrong; what would you say is the most common mistake made by
beginning grafters?

Thanks,

Paul

Thanks, John, I'll try again this year using the rubber tape.

Paul


"John Kring" wrote in message
...
Paul,
I have only done whip grafts. Like you I make sure the cambiums are
together. I do not use grafting wax. Instead I wrap the graft tightly
with
rubber electrical tape (this isn't the regular electrical tape that's
used,
it's more like rubber and stretches, I've found it at Menards) so that it
covers the entire graft area and then I coat it with a water based
grafting
compound (I used a product called TreeKote, comes in a yellow plastic
container)

Here's two links to a good site for grafting:
http://www.extension.umn.edu/distrib...re/DG0532.html

http://www.extension.umn.edu/distrib...nts/DG0532c.ht
ml



Again I've only done whip grafting but I'd say that over 95% of my grafts
take.

One other important thing, make sure that your scion wood and root stocks
are not exposed to ethylene gas. Fruit in your refrigerator gives off
this
gas so if you store your scion wood in a refrigerator with fruit it will
damage your scion wood. This site talks about ethylene gas and grafting:
http://pubs.cas.psu.edu/FreePubs/pdfs/UJ255.pdf

If your scion wood is bad you can buy more from someone like Maple Valley
Orchards www.maplevalleyorchards.com

Good luck!!
John



"Pavel314" wrote in message
...
"John Kring" wrote in message
...
I've done a lot of successful grafting. What types of grafts are you
doing
and what happens after you do the grafts? Anything?
John


John,

I've tried grafting apple trees and grape vines. After grafting, the
grafts
shrivel up and die. I've paid close attention to getting the cambium in
contact and dressed the joins with grafting wax. I've tried bud grafts,
whip
grafts and cleft grafts, all with the same bad results. I'm obviously
doing
something wrong; what would you say is the most common mistake made by
beginning grafters?

Thanks,

Paul

Thanks, Sherwin, some more good tips to remember next time I try to graft.

Paul


"sherwindu" wrote in message
...
One thing you don't mention is a rubber band wrap. Tightly wrapping with
a
rubber
band squeezes the two pieces together for better contact. Over that, I
usually
use a
product called Para-film. It is a stretchy material, but differs from the
electrical tape
in that it allows air, but not moisture to pass through it. It is sold as
both
a dressing for wounds and a special version for grafting. You should be
sure
the scion wood is
dormant before attaching. Trim all but three of the closest buds above
the
graft.
Trim off any competing leaves, but leave another branch or two untouched
to help

the rootstock to survive in case the graft doesn't take and you want to
re-use
it next
season. You should be seeing an improvement in your success rate if you
follow
the
above steps.

Sherwin D.

Pavel314 wrote:

"John Kring" wrote in message
...
I've done a lot of successful grafting. What types of grafts are you
doing
and what happens after you do the grafts? Anything?
John

John,

I've tried grafting apple trees and grape vines. After grafting, the
grafts
shrivel up and die. I've paid close attention to getting the cambium in
contact and dressed the joins with grafting wax. I've tried bud grafts,
whip
grafts and cleft grafts, all with the same bad results. I'm obviously
doing
something wrong; what would you say is the most common mistake made by
beginning grafters?

Thanks,

Paul