What are you guys doing for Squash Vine Borers? Sevin dust and the organics
don't work anymore for us.

Manelli Family wrote:

What are you guys doing for Squash Vine Borers? Sevin dust and the
organics don't work anymore for us.

I've had good luck with beneficial nematodes seeded into the ground,
they get a lot of the SVB's while they are still in the ground.
Otherwise look for the frasse, caterpillar poop, then squash the worms.
Hard to get ahead of them unless you're checking twice a day.

George

George Shirley wrote:
Manelli Family wrote:

What are you guys doing for Squash Vine Borers? Sevin dust and the
organics don't work anymore for us.

I've had good luck with beneficial nematodes seeded into the ground,
they get a lot of the SVB's while they are still in the ground.
Otherwise look for the frasse, caterpillar poop, then squash the worms.
Hard to get ahead of them unless you're checking twice a day.

George



Do the borers bother those Tatume squash, George? The stems (except for
the leaf stems) are solid instead of hollow like a bush squash. So the
borers are supposed to just kill a couple of leaves and not the whole
vine -- plus the vines root at every node which gives them some
additional insurance against borers.

I've had more trouble with cucumber beetles than borers.

Bob

The best thing I have found was to rotate my crop. Put as much space as you
can between this years and last years plantings.

Next, buy and grow squash that are more resisistant to squash bugs and
borers. Yellow and zucchini are the first to go. Butternut and other
winter are the last.

Last, plant a couple rows of sacrificial squash as early in the spring as
you can, and a month or so later (depending upon where you live), the ones
you want to keep for yourself.

Good luck. Dwayne



"Manelli Family" wrote in message
...
What are you guys doing for Squash Vine Borers? Sevin dust and the
organics don't work anymore for us.

"George Shirley" wrote in message
...
Manelli Family wrote:

What are you guys doing for Squash Vine Borers? Sevin dust and the
organics don't work anymore for us.

I've had good luck with beneficial nematodes seeded into the ground, they
get a lot of the SVB's while they are still in the ground. Otherwise look
for the frasse, caterpillar poop, then squash the worms. Hard to get ahead
of them unless you're checking twice a day.

George


The ones we have I was told don't come from the soil. A flying insect lays
an egg on the stem and it hatches and bores in. Crushing the stem kills the
plant. How do you squash it in the vine and not crush the stem as well?

"zxcvbob" wrote in message
...
George Shirley wrote:
Manelli Family wrote:

What are you guys doing for Squash Vine Borers? Sevin dust and the
organics don't work anymore for us.

I've had good luck with beneficial nematodes seeded into the ground, they
get a lot of the SVB's while they are still in the ground. Otherwise look
for the frasse, caterpillar poop, then squash the worms. Hard to get
ahead of them unless you're checking twice a day.

George



Do the borers bother those Tatume squash, George? The stems (except for
the leaf stems) are solid instead of hollow like a bush squash. So the
borers are supposed to just kill a couple of leaves and not the whole
vine -- plus the vines root at every node which gives them some additional
insurance against borers.

I've had more trouble with cucumber beetles than borers.

Both are a constant nightmare here every summer. The beetles are getting
harder to kill as well.


Bob

"Dwayne" wrote in message
...
The best thing I have found was to rotate my crop. Put as much space as
you can between this years and last years plantings.

Next, buy and grow squash that are more resisistant to squash bugs and
borers. Yellow and zucchini are the first to go. Butternut and other
winter are the last.

Zucchini and crooknecks are our favorites and excellent for those on low
carb diets. Butternuts are not low carb and aren't ready until the fall.
They're also so cheap here they're hardly worth the garden space when space
is limited.


Last, plant a couple rows of sacrificial squash as early in the spring as
you can, and a month or so later (depending upon where you live), the ones
you want to keep for yourself.

Now that's an idea. Thanks............


Good luck. Dwayne



"Manelli Family" wrote in message
...
What are you guys doing for Squash Vine Borers? Sevin dust and the
organics don't work anymore for us.

Manelli Family wrote:

"George Shirley" wrote in message
...

Manelli Family wrote:

What are you guys doing for Squash Vine Borers? Sevin dust and the
organics don't work anymore for us.


I've had good luck with beneficial nematodes seeded into the ground,
they get a lot of the SVB's while they are still in the ground.
Otherwise look for the frasse, caterpillar poop, then squash the
worms. Hard to get ahead of them unless you're checking twice a day.

George


The ones we have I was told don't come from the soil. A flying insect
lays an egg on the stem and it hatches and bores in. Crushing the stem
kills the plant. How do you squash it in the vine and not crush the
stem as well?

You catch them at the intermediate stage, the flying insect lays the
eggs (you can spot them if you look closely), the larvae hatch and bore
into the vine, squash them, cover the stem with dirt and the plant lives
on. The intermediate stage is when the larvae go into the dirt and live
there awhile prior to developing into the flight stage. That's when the
nematodes get them. Takes a couple of years to get most of them and then
you start getting squash.

Alternative: grow cucuzzi (Google the word), it's an edible gourd with a
hard vine, borers don't bother them. Hercules War Club gourd is another
edible one. Pick them at about six to eight inches long, cook just like
squash. That's what we grew while the nematodes worked their magic.

George

On Apr 14, 7:00 am, "Manelli Family" wrote:
"Dwayne" wrote in message

...

The best thing I have found was to rotate my crop. Put as much space as
you can between this years and last years plantings.

Next, buy and grow squash that are more resisistant to squash bugs and
borers. Yellow and zucchini are the first to go. Butternut and other
winter are the last.

Zucchini and crooknecks are our favorites and excellent for those onlowcarbdiets. Butternuts are notlowcarband aren't ready until the fall.
They're also so cheap here they're hardly worth the garden space when space
is limited.



Last, plant a couple rows of sacrificial squash as early in the spring as
you can, and a month or so later (depending upon where you live), the ones
you want to keep for yourself.

Now that's an idea. Thanks............





Good luck. Dwayne

"Manelli Family" wrote in message
...
What are you guys doing for Squash Vine Borers? Sevin dust and the
organics don't work anymore for us.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


Dear
I ran into your message quite accidentally while researching about
some details on 'Low Carb Diets' and thought of sharing some of my
findings.
I've read at 'http://www.medical-health-care-information.com/Health-
living/crab-diets/index.asp
that Make every carbohydrate count. When you eat carbohydrates, reach
for complex carbohydrates such as whole grain breads and pasta,
legumes, nonstarchy fruits, and vegetables.
Pick produce that triggers lower glucose response. Fruits and
vegetables with the lowest glycemic index include apples, apricots,
asparagus, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower, celery, cherries,
cucumber, grapefruit, green beans, lettuce, mushrooms, onions, plums,
spinach, strawberries, sweet peppers, tomatoes, and zucchini. Moderate-
GI produce includes cantaloupe, grapes, oranges, orange juice,
peaches, peas, pineapple, yams, and watermelon. High-GI fruits and
vegetables include bananas, beets, carrots, corn, potatoes, and
raisins.
I hope the above is of some help to you as well. Regards, Sherrybove

"George Shirley" wrote in message
...
Manelli Family wrote:

"George Shirley" wrote in message
...

Manelli Family wrote:

What are you guys doing for Squash Vine Borers? Sevin dust and the
organics don't work anymore for us.


I've had good luck with beneficial nematodes seeded into the ground,
they get a lot of the SVB's while they are still in the ground.
Otherwise look for the frasse, caterpillar poop, then squash the worms.
Hard to get ahead of them unless you're checking twice a day.

George


The ones we have I was told don't come from the soil. A flying insect
lays an egg on the stem and it hatches and bores in. Crushing the stem
kills the plant. How do you squash it in the vine and not crush the stem
as well?

You catch them at the intermediate stage, the flying insect lays the eggs
(you can spot them if you look closely), the larvae hatch and bore into
the vine, squash them, cover the stem with dirt and the plant lives on.
The intermediate stage is when the larvae go into the dirt and live there
awhile prior to developing into the flight stage. That's when the
nematodes get them. Takes a couple of years to get most of them and then
you start getting squash.

Alternative: grow cucuzzi (Google the word), it's an edible gourd with a
hard vine, borers don't bother them. Hercules War Club gourd is another
edible one. Pick them at about six to eight inches long, cook just like
squash. That's what we grew while the nematodes worked their magic.

George


Thanks. As soon as they start growing I'll check for the eggs on the stems.
Will Google cucuzzi.

"sherry" wrote in message
oups.com...
On Apr 14, 7:00 am, "Manelli Family" wrote:
"Dwayne" wrote in message

...

The best thing I have found was to rotate my crop. Put as much space
as
you can between this years and last years plantings.

Next, buy and grow squash that are more resisistant to squash bugs and
borers. Yellow and zucchini are the first to go. Butternut and other
winter are the last.

Zucchini and crooknecks are our favorites and excellent for those
onlowcarbdiets. Butternuts are notlowcarband aren't ready until the
fall.
They're also so cheap here they're hardly worth the garden space when
space
is limited.



Last, plant a couple rows of sacrificial squash as early in the spring
as
you can, and a month or so later (depending upon where you live), the
ones
you want to keep for yourself.

Now that's an idea. Thanks............





Good luck. Dwayne

"Manelli Family" wrote in message
...
What are you guys doing for Squash Vine Borers? Sevin dust and the
organics don't work anymore for us.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


Dear
I ran into your message quite accidentally while researching about
some details on 'Low Carb Diets' and thought of sharing some of my
findings.
I've read at 'http://www.medical-health-care-information.com/Health-
living/crab-diets/index.asp
that Make every carbohydrate count. When you eat carbohydrates, reach
for complex carbohydrates such as whole grain breads and pasta,
legumes, nonstarchy fruits, and vegetables.

That's pretty much what I've done. I've given up all refined carbs and most
of the starchy veggies. Starchy veggies are much higher in calories as
well. When I do eat them I limit the amount to less than 1/2 a cup.

Pick produce that triggers lower glucose response. Fruits and
vegetables with the lowest glycemic index include apples, apricots,
asparagus, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower, celery, cherries,
cucumber, grapefruit, green beans, lettuce, mushrooms, onions, plums,
spinach, strawberries, sweet peppers, tomatoes, and zucchini.

The above are mainly what I'm eating. :0)

Moderate-
GI produce includes cantaloupe, grapes, oranges, orange juice,
peaches, peas, pineapple, yams, and watermelon. High-GI fruits and
vegetables include bananas, beets, carrots, corn, potatoes, and
raisins.
I hope the above is of some help to you as well. Regards, Sherrybove

Yes, thanks. After awhile you don't even miss the carby foods. I've lost
45 lbs so far and feel a heck of a lot better.

In article ,
"Manelli Family" wrote:

"zxcvbob" wrote in message
...
George Shirley wrote:
Manelli Family wrote:

What are you guys doing for Squash Vine Borers? Sevin dust and the
organics don't work anymore for us.

I've had good luck with beneficial nematodes seeded into the ground, they
get a lot of the SVB's while they are still in the ground. Otherwise look
for the frasse, caterpillar poop, then squash the worms. Hard to get
ahead of them unless you're checking twice a day.

George



Do the borers bother those Tatume squash, George? The stems (except for
the leaf stems) are solid instead of hollow like a bush squash. So the
borers are supposed to just kill a couple of leaves and not the whole
vine -- plus the vines root at every node which gives them some additional
insurance against borers.

I've had more trouble with cucumber beetles than borers.

Both are a constant nightmare here every summer. The beetles are getting
harder to kill as well.


Bob

Would regular treatment with BT help?
I've never been able to grow squash at all due to those damned things.
:-(
--
Peace, Om

Remove _ to validate e-mails.

"My mother never saw the irony in calling me a Son of a bitch" -- Jack Nicholson

"Omelet" wrote in message
news
In article ,
"Manelli Family" wrote:

"zxcvbob" wrote in message
...
George Shirley wrote:
Manelli Family wrote:

What are you guys doing for Squash Vine Borers? Sevin dust and the
organics don't work anymore for us.

I've had good luck with beneficial nematodes seeded into the ground,
they
get a lot of the SVB's while they are still in the ground. Otherwise
look
for the frasse, caterpillar poop, then squash the worms. Hard to get
ahead of them unless you're checking twice a day.

George



Do the borers bother those Tatume squash, George? The stems (except
for
the leaf stems) are solid instead of hollow like a bush squash. So the
borers are supposed to just kill a couple of leaves and not the whole
vine -- plus the vines root at every node which gives them some
additional
insurance against borers.

I've had more trouble with cucumber beetles than borers.

Both are a constant nightmare here every summer. The beetles are getting
harder to kill as well.


Bob

Would regular treatment with BT help?
I've never been able to grow squash at all due to those damned things.
:-(

As far as I know that only works on those worms that feed on cabbage family
plants and horn worms on tomatoes. I can be wrong.

I've tried the slitting and squashing the borers but the plants always
managed to die or were so sick they produced almost nothing afterward even
when the vine was covered with soil. I'd end up ripping them out and
burning them.

The products we have now are almost useless for insect control. The insects
and bugs have developed a good immunity to just about anything you'll find
on the store shelves. Those that worked, like Kelthane for mites, Dursban
and Chlordane were taken off the market - or you need a lic. to purchase
them. I'd like to know what the commercial growers are using.


--
Peace, Om

Remove _ to validate e-mails.

"My mother never saw the irony in calling me a Son of a bitch" -- Jack
Nicholson

Manelli Family wrote:

"Omelet" wrote in message
news
In article ,
"Manelli Family" wrote:

"zxcvbob" wrote in message
...
George Shirley wrote:
Manelli Family wrote:

What are you guys doing for Squash Vine Borers? Sevin dust and the
organics don't work anymore for us.

I've had good luck with beneficial nematodes seeded into the
ground, they
get a lot of the SVB's while they are still in the ground.
Otherwise look
for the frasse, caterpillar poop, then squash the worms. Hard to get
ahead of them unless you're checking twice a day.

George



Do the borers bother those Tatume squash, George? The stems
(except for
the leaf stems) are solid instead of hollow like a bush squash. So
the
borers are supposed to just kill a couple of leaves and not the whole
vine -- plus the vines root at every node which gives them some
additional
insurance against borers.

I've had more trouble with cucumber beetles than borers.

Both are a constant nightmare here every summer. The beetles are
getting
harder to kill as well.


Bob


Would regular treatment with BT help?
I've never been able to grow squash at all due to those damned things.
:-(


As far as I know that only works on those worms that feed on cabbage
family plants and horn worms on tomatoes. I can be wrong.

I've tried the slitting and squashing the borers but the plants always
managed to die or were so sick they produced almost nothing afterward
even when the vine was covered with soil. I'd end up ripping them out
and burning them.

The products we have now are almost useless for insect control. The
insects and bugs have developed a good immunity to just about anything
you'll find on the store shelves. Those that worked, like Kelthane for
mites, Dursban and Chlordane were taken off the market - or you need a
lic. to purchase them. I'd like to know what the commercial growers are
using.


--
Peace, Om

Remove _ to validate e-mails.

"My mother never saw the irony in calling me a Son of a bitch" -- Jack
Nicholson


I didn't see your post until now Bob. The Tatume are vine borer
resistant and are a tasty squash. Left to grow large they more closely
resemble their cousins, the pumpkins. Haven't tried to store them in the
raw state as we live in USDA Zone 9b and it is generally too warm to
store veggies. The Tatume will grow up an eighty foot oak tree if
planted too close to one so be careful.

I grow them on nylon netting strung on steel fence posts along one edge
of the big garden. I just keep looping the runners back on themselves
and they bear until first frost, generally that is December or January
for us. HTH

George

In article ,
"Manelli Family" wrote:

Would regular treatment with BT help?
I've never been able to grow squash at all due to those damned things.
:-(

As far as I know that only works on those worms that feed on cabbage family
plants and horn worms on tomatoes. I can be wrong.

I've tried the slitting and squashing the borers but the plants always
managed to die or were so sick they produced almost nothing afterward even
when the vine was covered with soil. I'd end up ripping them out and
burning them.

The products we have now are almost useless for insect control. The insects
and bugs have developed a good immunity to just about anything you'll find
on the store shelves. Those that worked, like Kelthane for mites, Dursban
and Chlordane were taken off the market - or you need a lic. to purchase
them. I'd like to know what the commercial growers are using.


It's been several years since I've tried.
I wonder if the local population is still bad enough to even attempt
them?
--
Peace, Om

Remove _ to validate e-mails.

"My mother never saw the irony in calling me a Son of a bitch" -- Jack Nicholson