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#1
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Citrus/Fruit Tree food
Need your wisdom on the Subject plant food. I won it at a neighborhood nursery contest a few years ago and would like to utilize it for something other than Citrus and Fruit Tree. But what? I now have only one Citrus -- a big old lemon tree which doesn't seem to need any help producing bounteous fruit (chronic whitefly notwithstanding).. Over time, had to (sadly) take out the peach, plum, and apricot. So here I have this E.B. Stone Organics formula. What else can I use it for? The detailed formula, basically 7-3-3, can be found at: http://tinyurl.com/26ktod In addition, the faded old label lists following ingredients: Humic Acd Bacillus Subtilis Bacillus Lichniformis Paenbacillus Polymyxa Bacillus Pumulis Stretomyces Lycidus Streptomyces Greiseus Trichodema Harzianum Trichoderma Veride Calcined Clay Endo Mycorrhizae (yam) Three species (.65 spore/cu cm) Glomus Intraradices Glomus Mosseae Glomus Aggregatum I am very impressed, but...? Any help on where I can use this plant food would be much appreciated. Persephone |
#2
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Citrus/Fruit Tree food
On 9/15/2007 10:10 AM, Persephone wrote:
Need your wisdom on the Subject plant food. I won it at a neighborhood nursery contest a few years ago and would like to utilize it for something other than Citrus and Fruit Tree. But what? I now have only one Citrus -- a big old lemon tree which doesn't seem to need any help producing bounteous fruit (chronic whitefly notwithstanding).. Over time, had to (sadly) take out the peach, plum, and apricot. So here I have this E.B. Stone Organics formula. What else can I use it for? The detailed formula, basically 7-3-3, can be found at: http://tinyurl.com/26ktod In addition, the faded old label lists following ingredients: Humic Acd Bacillus Subtilis Bacillus Lichniformis Paenbacillus Polymyxa Bacillus Pumulis Stretomyces Lycidus Streptomyces Greiseus Trichodema Harzianum Trichoderma Veride Calcined Clay Endo Mycorrhizae (yam) Three species (.65 spore/cu cm) Glomus Intraradices Glomus Mosseae Glomus Aggregatum I am very impressed, but...? Any help on where I can use this plant food would be much appreciated. Persephone Gardenias thrive on citrus food, as would most acid-loving plants. However, it tends to be too strong for azaleas and camellias, both of which actually prefer a lean soil (i.e., low in nutrients). As for your other fruit trees, they were all stone fruits. That is, they were all in the genus Prunus. This is a group that is relatively short-lived. The peach in my garden is my second in 34 years and is in decline. -- David E. Ross Climate: California Mediterranean Sunset Zone: 21 -- interior Santa Monica Mountains with some ocean influence (USDA 10a, very close to Sunset Zone 19) Gardening pages at http://www.rossde.com/garden/ |
#3
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Citrus/Fruit Tree food
Food is a substance that provides and energy source, mostly. Nutrient is a
substance that provides an energy source, elements, and other substances essential for life, in types and amounts that can provide a healthy life. Fertilizer is a substance that provides elements, as salts mostly, or in bonded forms, that require microorganisms to alter to forms that can be absorbed by plants. I do not call elements - nutrients, however nutrients would contain elements. You can put a file in a folder but you can't put a folder in a file. A list of elements can be found he http://images.google.com/imgres?imgu...US211%26sa%3DX 17 Elements For Life - Carbon, Hydrogen, Oxygen, Nitrogen, Phosphorus, Potassium, Calcium, Sulfur, Magnesium, Manganese, Iron, Copper, Boron, Molybdenum, Chlorine, Zinc, Nickel [Sodium, Cobalt, Selenium?] 14 essential elements are obtained by trees from the soil. I do not have a list of which ones they are. Wood is the substrate of the base of the food web, the mycorrhizal fungi. Mycorrhizae tend to be abundant in composted wood such as nurse logs. We had great success at tree biology workshops finding mycorrhizae during dryer times, in and about nurse logs. I believe, you don't have to agree with it, please, just think. I think that by applying mulch as I recommend under mulch here that you facilitate the mycorrhizae rather than just adding what I believe you mean as humus, over a lawn. Not that its bad in any way, adding humus i.e.. Mulching - http://home.ccil.org/~treeman/sub3.html and http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT2003/M/ Look up "Mulch" Did I say - Mycorrhizae are organs that facilitate the absorption of elements essential for healthy growth. Mycorrhizae resist the Demons Of D. Mycorrhizae facilitate the absorption of elements. Demons of D are those things that add up to the big D word DEATH. E.g., Depletion, disruption, and dysfunction. Elements can be depleted. Disruption, you get hit my a Mac truck. Dysfunction, some organ such as mycorrhizae may not function. Major Elements C; H; N; O; P; K; S; Mg; Ni; Fe; Ca; Zn; Mo; Mn; B; Cl; Cu There is the law of the minimum. It states the element that is deficient the most, would be the determining factor in the health of the tree. I think research would be wise in the search for the optimum fertility level for trees. I did some soil testing in the upper four inches of soil and from at and about nurse logs in old growth forest which contain hemlocks and white pines. And much more. Here is my average on my testing for the latter. These where five test. 3 test sites where in Allegheny National Forest(Hearts Content) Pennsylvania and two where in Allegheny National Forest(Tionesta Scenic area) Pennsylvania. Results are in Pounds Per Acre PPA. AVAILABLE ELEMENTS P 8.2 K 236 Mg 107 Ca 594 Al 220.6 Fe 110.8 Mn 118.6 Zn 11.96 NO3-N 28.8 Did not get B or CU. Organic matter was 29.32% Ex Acidity 81 ME/100G Salts mmho: 0.01 mmho/cm Moisture %3.97 Water Soluble mg/kg B 1.0738 ACID Soluble (mg/kg) Cd 0.976 Cu 6.768 Ni 5.71 (Penn State discovered the element Ni to be essential in small amounts) Mn 426.378 Co 3.084 Zn 46.818 Pb 101.792 Cr 5.078 P 726.226 The CARBON TO NITROGEN RATION was 27:1 pH 4.2 WOW That would be a goal of mine if I was going to provide essential elements professionally. I did not see to many people in the old growth sections. There was more calcium at a nurse logs in a separate test. We don't feed trees, however, we can feed the soil with composted wood (chips and nurse logs) and leaves. We can feed the system. I have some results for some sick hemlocks (elements in soil) -- Sincerely, John A. Keslick, Jr. Arborist http://home.ccil.org/~treeman and www.treedictionary.com Beware of so-called tree experts who do not understand tree biology. Storms, fires, floods, earthquakes, and volcanic eruptions keep reminding us that we are not the boss. Persephone wrote in message ... Need your wisdom on the Subject plant food. I won it at a neighborhood nursery contest a few years ago and would like to utilize it for something other than Citrus and Fruit Tree. But what? I now have only one Citrus -- a big old lemon tree which doesn't seem to need any help producing bounteous fruit (chronic whitefly notwithstanding).. Over time, had to (sadly) take out the peach, plum, and apricot. So here I have this E.B. Stone Organics formula. What else can I use it for? The detailed formula, basically 7-3-3, can be found at: http://tinyurl.com/26ktod In addition, the faded old label lists following ingredients: Humic Acd Bacillus Subtilis Bacillus Lichniformis Paenbacillus Polymyxa Bacillus Pumulis Stretomyces Lycidus Streptomyces Greiseus Trichodema Harzianum Trichoderma Veride Calcined Clay Endo Mycorrhizae (yam) Three species (.65 spore/cu cm) Glomus Intraradices Glomus Mosseae Glomus Aggregatum I am very impressed, but...? Any help on where I can use this plant food would be much appreciated. Persephone |
#4
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Citrus/Fruit Tree food
On Mon, 17 Sep 2007 14:32:40 -0400, "symplastless"
wrote: [...] Thank you very much for that detailed analysis. Very interesting. I would still like to ask NG if they know of any SPECIFIC uses to which I can put the leftover formula. Below is the original post: =========================================== The detailed formula, basically 7-3-3, can be found at: http://tinyurl.com/26ktod In addition, the faded old label lists following ingredients: Humic Acd Bacillus Subtilis Bacillus Lichniformis Paenbacillus Polymyxa Bacillus Pumulis Stretomyces Lycidus Streptomyces Greiseus Trichodema Harzianum Trichoderma Veride Calcined Clay Endo Mycorrhizae (yam) Three species (.65 spore/cu cm) Glomus Intraradices Glomus Mosseae Glomus Aggregatum I am very impressed, but...? Any help on where I can use this plant food would be much appreciated. Persephone |
#5
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Citrus/Fruit Tree food
Persephone writes:
I would still like to ask NG if they know of any SPECIFIC uses to which I can put the leftover formula. Below is the original post: . . . The detailed formula, basically 7-3-3, can be found at: Well, it is a nitrogen-rich fertilizer. Has a number of microorganisms intended to be beneficial in it (not sure whether I'd trust them to be alive anymore, especially given how old it is, but that's probably neither here nor there). I don't really know much about most of the metals and such (in terms of whether those numbers are big or small, and what it means). You can probably use it on almost anything, except a plant that you want to flower or fruit in the near future (for those, it is too nitrogen-rich). If in doubt, be cautious about how much you apply (for example, dilute it beyond the directions on the label). I don't know, were you hoping for a more specific answer? There's bound to be at least some trial and error with this kind of thing, but the main way you are likely to damage your plants is if you apply a large quantity of some concentrated thing (and 7-3-3 is only moderately strong, as fertilizers go). (I don't think symplastless's response has made it to my news server, so my apologies if I'm duplicating or whatever). |
#6
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Citrus/Fruit Tree food
What about the other 14 essential elements?
large quantity of some concentrated thing (and 7-3-3 is only moderately strong, as fertilizers go). -- Sincerely, John A. Keslick, Jr. Consulting Arborist http://home.ccil.org/~treeman and www.treedictionary.com Beware of so-called tree experts who do not understand tree biology. Storms, fires, floods, earthquakes, and volcanic eruptions keep reminding us that we are not the boss. |
#7
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Citrus/Fruit Tree food
Most plants are autotrophs. How are you going to feed an autotroph? Thats
silly. One of the closest plants to an Heterotroph is the ghost flower. It gets its food from other plants in a process called the bicarbohydrate transfer of plants. If we could feed a plant we would put the sun out of business. -- Sincerely, John A. Keslick, Jr. Consulting Arborist http://home.ccil.org/~treeman and www.treedictionary.com Beware of so-called tree experts who do not understand tree biology. Storms, fires, floods, earthquakes, and volcanic eruptions keep reminding us that we are not the boss. Persephone wrote in message ... On Mon, 17 Sep 2007 14:32:40 -0400, "symplastless" wrote: [...] Thank you very much for that detailed analysis. Very interesting. I would still like to ask NG if they know of any SPECIFIC uses to which I can put the leftover formula. Below is the original post: =========================================== The detailed formula, basically 7-3-3, can be found at: http://tinyurl.com/26ktod In addition, the faded old label lists following ingredients: Humic Acd Bacillus Subtilis Bacillus Lichniformis Paenbacillus Polymyxa Bacillus Pumulis Stretomyces Lycidus Streptomyces Greiseus Trichodema Harzianum Trichoderma Veride Calcined Clay Endo Mycorrhizae (yam) Three species (.65 spore/cu cm) Glomus Intraradices Glomus Mosseae Glomus Aggregatum I am very impressed, but...? Any help on where I can use this plant food would be much appreciated. Persephone |
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