Need your wisdom on the Subject plant food.

I won it at a neighborhood nursery contest a few years ago
and would like to utilize it for something other than
Citrus and Fruit Tree. But what?

I now have only one Citrus -- a big old lemon tree which
doesn't seem to need any help producing bounteous fruit
(chronic whitefly notwithstanding)..

Over time, had to (sadly) take out the peach, plum, and apricot.

So here I have this E.B. Stone Organics formula.
What else can I use it for?

The detailed formula, basically 7-3-3, can be found at:

http://tinyurl.com/26ktod

In addition, the faded old label lists following ingredients:

Humic Acd

Bacillus Subtilis
Bacillus Lichniformis
Paenbacillus Polymyxa
Bacillus Pumulis
Stretomyces Lycidus
Streptomyces Greiseus
Trichodema Harzianum
Trichoderma Veride

Calcined Clay

Endo Mycorrhizae (yam)
Three species (.65 spore/cu cm)
Glomus Intraradices
Glomus Mosseae
Glomus Aggregatum

I am very impressed, but...?

Any help on where I can use this plant food would
be much appreciated.

Persephone

On 9/15/2007 10:10 AM, Persephone wrote:
Need your wisdom on the Subject plant food.

I won it at a neighborhood nursery contest a few years ago
and would like to utilize it for something other than
Citrus and Fruit Tree. But what?

I now have only one Citrus -- a big old lemon tree which
doesn't seem to need any help producing bounteous fruit
(chronic whitefly notwithstanding)..

Over time, had to (sadly) take out the peach, plum, and apricot.

So here I have this E.B. Stone Organics formula.
What else can I use it for?

The detailed formula, basically 7-3-3, can be found at:

http://tinyurl.com/26ktod

In addition, the faded old label lists following ingredients:

Humic Acd

Bacillus Subtilis
Bacillus Lichniformis
Paenbacillus Polymyxa
Bacillus Pumulis
Stretomyces Lycidus
Streptomyces Greiseus
Trichodema Harzianum
Trichoderma Veride

Calcined Clay

Endo Mycorrhizae (yam)
Three species (.65 spore/cu cm)
Glomus Intraradices
Glomus Mosseae
Glomus Aggregatum

I am very impressed, but...?

Any help on where I can use this plant food would
be much appreciated.

Persephone

Gardenias thrive on citrus food, as would most acid-loving plants.
However, it tends to be too strong for azaleas and camellias, both of
which actually prefer a lean soil (i.e., low in nutrients).

As for your other fruit trees, they were all stone fruits. That is,
they were all in the genus Prunus. This is a group that is relatively
short-lived. The peach in my garden is my second in 34 years and is in
decline.

--
David E. Ross
Climate: California Mediterranean
Sunset Zone: 21 -- interior Santa Monica Mountains with some ocean
influence (USDA 10a, very close to Sunset Zone 19)
Gardening pages at http://www.rossde.com/garden/

Food is a substance that provides and energy source, mostly. Nutrient is a
substance that provides an energy source, elements, and other substances
essential for life, in types and amounts that can provide a healthy life.
Fertilizer is a substance that provides elements, as salts mostly, or in
bonded forms, that require microorganisms to alter to forms that can be
absorbed by plants. I do not call elements - nutrients, however nutrients
would contain elements. You can put a file in a folder but you can't put a
folder in a file. A list of elements can be found he
http://images.google.com/imgres?imgu...US211%26sa%3DX

17 Elements For Life - Carbon, Hydrogen, Oxygen, Nitrogen, Phosphorus,
Potassium, Calcium, Sulfur, Magnesium, Manganese, Iron, Copper, Boron,
Molybdenum, Chlorine, Zinc, Nickel [Sodium, Cobalt, Selenium?]

14 essential elements are obtained by trees from the soil. I do not have a
list of which ones they are.

Wood is the substrate of the base of the food web, the mycorrhizal fungi.
Mycorrhizae tend to be abundant in composted wood such as nurse logs. We
had great success at tree biology workshops finding mycorrhizae during dryer
times, in and about nurse logs. I believe, you don't have to agree with it,
please, just think. I think that by applying mulch as I recommend under
mulch here that you facilitate the mycorrhizae rather than just adding what
I believe you mean as humus, over a lawn. Not that its bad in any way,
adding humus i.e..

Mulching - http://home.ccil.org/~treeman/sub3.html
and
http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT2003/M/ Look up "Mulch"

Did I say - Mycorrhizae are organs that facilitate the absorption of
elements essential for healthy growth. Mycorrhizae resist the Demons Of D.
Mycorrhizae facilitate the absorption of elements. Demons of D are those
things that add up to the big D word DEATH. E.g., Depletion, disruption,
and dysfunction. Elements can be depleted. Disruption, you get hit my a
Mac truck. Dysfunction, some organ such as mycorrhizae may not function.


Major Elements C; H; N; O; P; K; S; Mg; Ni; Fe; Ca; Zn; Mo; Mn; B; Cl; Cu

There is the law of the minimum. It states the element that is deficient
the most, would be the determining factor in the health of the tree.

I think research would be wise in the search for the optimum fertility level
for trees.

I did some soil testing in the upper four inches of soil and from at and
about nurse logs in old growth forest which contain hemlocks and white
pines. And much more. Here is my average on my testing for the latter.
These where five test. 3 test sites where in Allegheny National
Forest(Hearts Content) Pennsylvania
and two where in Allegheny National Forest(Tionesta Scenic area)
Pennsylvania.
Results are in Pounds Per Acre PPA. AVAILABLE ELEMENTS
P 8.2
K 236
Mg 107
Ca 594
Al 220.6
Fe 110.8
Mn 118.6
Zn 11.96
NO3-N 28.8
Did not get B or CU.
Organic matter was 29.32%
Ex Acidity 81 ME/100G
Salts mmho: 0.01 mmho/cm
Moisture %3.97
Water Soluble mg/kg B 1.0738
ACID Soluble (mg/kg)
Cd 0.976
Cu 6.768
Ni 5.71 (Penn State discovered the element Ni to be essential in small
amounts)
Mn 426.378
Co 3.084
Zn 46.818
Pb 101.792
Cr 5.078
P 726.226
The CARBON TO NITROGEN RATION was 27:1
pH 4.2 WOW

That would be a goal of mine if I was going to provide essential elements
professionally. I did not see to many people in the old growth sections.

There was more calcium at a nurse logs in a separate test.

We don't feed trees, however, we can feed the soil with composted wood
(chips and nurse logs) and leaves. We can feed the system.

I have some results for some sick hemlocks (elements in soil)


--
Sincerely,
John A. Keslick, Jr.
Arborist
http://home.ccil.org/~treeman
and www.treedictionary.com
Beware of so-called tree experts who do not understand tree biology.
Storms, fires, floods, earthquakes, and volcanic eruptions keep reminding us
that we are not the boss.






Persephone wrote in message
...

Need your wisdom on the Subject plant food.

I won it at a neighborhood nursery contest a few years ago
and would like to utilize it for something other than
Citrus and Fruit Tree. But what?

I now have only one Citrus -- a big old lemon tree which
doesn't seem to need any help producing bounteous fruit
(chronic whitefly notwithstanding)..

Over time, had to (sadly) take out the peach, plum, and apricot.

So here I have this E.B. Stone Organics formula.
What else can I use it for?

The detailed formula, basically 7-3-3, can be found at:

http://tinyurl.com/26ktod

In addition, the faded old label lists following ingredients:

Humic Acd

Bacillus Subtilis
Bacillus Lichniformis
Paenbacillus Polymyxa
Bacillus Pumulis
Stretomyces Lycidus
Streptomyces Greiseus
Trichodema Harzianum
Trichoderma Veride

Calcined Clay

Endo Mycorrhizae (yam)
Three species (.65 spore/cu cm)
Glomus Intraradices
Glomus Mosseae
Glomus Aggregatum

I am very impressed, but...?

Any help on where I can use this plant food would
be much appreciated.

Persephone

On Mon, 17 Sep 2007 14:32:40 -0400, "symplastless"
wrote:

[...]

Thank you very much for that detailed analysis. Very interesting.

I would still like to ask NG if they know of any SPECIFIC uses to
which I can put the leftover formula. Below is the original post:

===========================================

The detailed formula, basically 7-3-3, can be found at:

http://tinyurl.com/26ktod

In addition, the faded old label lists following ingredients:

Humic Acd

Bacillus Subtilis
Bacillus Lichniformis
Paenbacillus Polymyxa
Bacillus Pumulis
Stretomyces Lycidus
Streptomyces Greiseus
Trichodema Harzianum
Trichoderma Veride

Calcined Clay

Endo Mycorrhizae (yam)
Three species (.65 spore/cu cm)
Glomus Intraradices
Glomus Mosseae
Glomus Aggregatum

I am very impressed, but...?

Any help on where I can use this plant food would
be much appreciated.

Persephone

Persephone writes:

I would still like to ask NG if they know of any SPECIFIC uses to
which I can put the leftover formula. Below is the original post:
. . .
The detailed formula, basically 7-3-3, can be found at:

Well, it is a nitrogen-rich fertilizer. Has a number of
microorganisms intended to be beneficial in it (not sure whether I'd
trust them to be alive anymore, especially given how old it is, but
that's probably neither here nor there). I don't really know much
about most of the metals and such (in terms of whether those numbers
are big or small, and what it means).

You can probably use it on almost anything, except a plant that you
want to flower or fruit in the near future (for those, it is too
nitrogen-rich). If in doubt, be cautious about how much you apply
(for example, dilute it beyond the directions on the label).

I don't know, were you hoping for a more specific answer? There's
bound to be at least some trial and error with this kind of thing, but
the main way you are likely to damage your plants is if you apply a
large quantity of some concentrated thing (and 7-3-3 is only
moderately strong, as fertilizers go).

(I don't think symplastless's response has made it to my news server,
so my apologies if I'm duplicating or whatever).

Most plants are autotrophs. How are you going to feed an autotroph? Thats
silly.

One of the closest plants to an Heterotroph is the ghost flower. It gets
its food from other plants in a process called the bicarbohydrate transfer
of plants.

If we could feed a plant we would put the sun out of business.


--
Sincerely,
John A. Keslick, Jr.
Consulting Arborist
http://home.ccil.org/~treeman
and www.treedictionary.com
Beware of so-called tree experts who do not understand tree biology.
Storms, fires, floods, earthquakes, and volcanic eruptions keep reminding us
that we are not the boss.

Persephone wrote in message
...
On Mon, 17 Sep 2007 14:32:40 -0400, "symplastless"
wrote:

[...]

Thank you very much for that detailed analysis. Very interesting.

I would still like to ask NG if they know of any SPECIFIC uses to
which I can put the leftover formula. Below is the original post:

===========================================

The detailed formula, basically 7-3-3, can be found at:

http://tinyurl.com/26ktod

In addition, the faded old label lists following ingredients:

Humic Acd

Bacillus Subtilis
Bacillus Lichniformis
Paenbacillus Polymyxa
Bacillus Pumulis
Stretomyces Lycidus
Streptomyces Greiseus
Trichodema Harzianum
Trichoderma Veride

Calcined Clay

Endo Mycorrhizae (yam)
Three species (.65 spore/cu cm)
Glomus Intraradices
Glomus Mosseae
Glomus Aggregatum

I am very impressed, but...?

Any help on where I can use this plant food would
be much appreciated.

Persephone

What about the other 14 essential elements?

large quantity of some concentrated thing (and 7-3-3 is only
moderately strong, as fertilizers go).


--
Sincerely,
John A. Keslick, Jr.
Consulting Arborist
http://home.ccil.org/~treeman
and www.treedictionary.com
Beware of so-called tree experts who do not understand tree biology.
Storms, fires, floods, earthquakes, and volcanic eruptions keep reminding us
that we are not the boss.