In article ,
"Val" wrote:
In article , Persephone
wrote:

Please don't lynch me for asking about the "R" word!

I just had HUGE amounts of the worst, most deep-rooted
weed-grass taken out of a rose path, and don't want to go through that
again soon!

Already the monsters are poking through the 3" layer of
small bark mulch I put down.

So my question is: How far does Roundup travel? My
rosebushes are about 2-3 feet apart. If I put Roundup
in the middle between bushes, will it hurt them?

I wasn't planning to spray. Looks like I don't know how Roundup
works. I was just going to pour a diluted amount right on the
little monsters poking their heads out.

Is this do-able?

It only works well on the foliage. There's pretty much no root
activity. You could water plants (on the soil) with a solution of
Roundup and it won't kill them. It's supposed to bind to soil and get
inactivated quickly. I've even heard of some people using relatively
dirty water to dilute the concentrated versions, which reduces the
effectiveness.

What I really want to know is how far it travels parallel - sideways.
IOW, if I pour it on some weed poking out, when it sinks in, will it
move 2 feet to each side? One foot? Inches?

Once it reaches the soil, I wouldn't worry about it. It doesn't
affect roots, bark, or woody stems.

Rule # 1. READ THE #$%$ DIRECTIONS!!!!

Obviously you haven't. ( I am not addressing YPW.) I would assume if you are
literate enough to post and read in a newsgroup you would be able to read
directions. This is only an assumption, I could be wrong.

I frankly don't have a problem with Roundup being used as a last resort. I
DO have a huge problem with real ****ing ignorant people. You do not POUR
Round-up. You would know that if you had merely GLANCED at instructions or
done a modicum of research.

As you have been told in this newsgroup; Round-up is taken in thru leaves
and fleshy stems into the root system. It does NOT travel through the
ground. I would use the scientific big words for this process but you
obviously have sever problems comprehending the small ones. POURING does no
good other than saturate a plant and waste the product. You plan to use a
dilute solution? How dilute.......oh never mind, YOU are just pulling this
little weed killing fiasco out of your ass, how could you possibly answer a
question when you DON'T THINK!!

Since it isn't yet a felony to actually sell a moron this product I will
make a few suggestions that you will no doubt totally ignore as you will any
mixing or application instructions a product since it appears your SOP is
"dilute & pour".

You need some sort of a sprayer type device. If it has a wand more the
better, you'll be able to hold the end of the spray wand close to the ground
where this grass is and eliminate most drift and give you decent control of
the application. DO NOT SPRY YOUR ROSES but you can spray close to the woody
trunk/stem if you keep the spray nozzle close to the ground.. Plants do NOT
take Roundup in through the roots.

For the fastest and best results choose to do this in the early morning of a
hot, dry day. IF you should actually happen to read the instructions they
will also give you optimum time and temperatures for application. Now go
get a big bottle of red food coloring and proceed. Yes, I'm serious, RED
food coloring, go get a 1 oz. or 2 oz. bottle.

RTFI (Read The ****ing Instructions) when mixing this product in the
sprayer.....this is NOT a seat of the pants, head up your ass "I'll just
dilute some" procedure. You will find there are directions, if you RTFI,
specifically for Bermuda Grass. Lastly add the bottle of red food coloring.
This will allow you to see exactly where you have been spraying. The reddish
color will fade away in a short while from sun light and watering. Go to
the furthest point of the area to be sprayed and start there. Walk sides
ways and backwards while spraying as you would paint your way out of a
room.....NOT into a corner. This will eliminate the chance of you stepping
in the spray and then leaving dead foot tracks through your lawn when you
are distracted by butterflies and birds and go trotting off to investigate
as would a small, curious child with a very short attention span. If you
only have a little hand pump (trigger) type spray bottle BEND OVER and keep
the nozzle close to the ground while you spray. If you buy a pre-mixed spray
bottle of Roundup you can still add the red food coloring.

Let the grass get all brown and dead and crispy before you start
pulling/digging it out. Bermuda Grass needs to suck this stuff down into its
root system to kill the whole plant, you still may have to spray again in a
few weeks when you see some stray growth appearing......then go back and
read this post again before proceeding.

It's all coming back to me why I put Persephone in the PLONK file.

Val


I just get all warm and fuzzy feeling, when Val writes like that ;-)

Maybe we could turn "Perse" in to the "Santa Monica's Cooperative
Natural Grocer" for dancing with the devil, they could tune her up.

But, before you set forth, in league with the divil and armed with his
potions, have you considered that since you already have the bermuda
grass under a 3" layer of small bark mulch, why not pull the mulch back
and put plastic sheeting down over your problem, then recover with your
mulch. You could even pull up what Bermuda Grass you can first, or
maybe you just like "bad boys" and want to sleep with the devil;-)

Talking the talk AND walking the walk.
--

Billy
Bush Behind Bars
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9KVTf...ef=patrick.net
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l0aEo...eature=related

Billy wrote:
In article ,
"Val" wrote:
In article , Persephone
wrote:

Please don't lynch me for asking about the "R" word!

I just had HUGE amounts of the worst, most deep-rooted
weed-grass taken out of a rose path, and don't want to go through that
again soon!

Already the monsters are poking through the 3" layer of
small bark mulch I put down.

So my question is: How far does Roundup travel? My
rosebushes are about 2-3 feet apart. If I put Roundup
in the middle between bushes, will it hurt them?

I wasn't planning to spray. Looks like I don't know how Roundup
works. I was just going to pour a diluted amount right on the
little monsters poking their heads out.

Is this do-able?
It only works well on the foliage. There's pretty much no root
activity. You could water plants (on the soil) with a solution of
Roundup and it won't kill them. It's supposed to bind to soil and get
inactivated quickly. I've even heard of some people using relatively
dirty water to dilute the concentrated versions, which reduces the
effectiveness.

What I really want to know is how far it travels parallel - sideways.
IOW, if I pour it on some weed poking out, when it sinks in, will it
move 2 feet to each side? One foot? Inches?
Once it reaches the soil, I wouldn't worry about it. It doesn't
affect roots, bark, or woody stems.
Rule # 1. READ THE #$%$ DIRECTIONS!!!!

Obviously you haven't. ( I am not addressing YPW.) I would assume if you are
literate enough to post and read in a newsgroup you would be able to read
directions. This is only an assumption, I could be wrong.

I frankly don't have a problem with Roundup being used as a last resort. I
DO have a huge problem with real ****ing ignorant people. You do not POUR
Round-up. You would know that if you had merely GLANCED at instructions or
done a modicum of research.

As you have been told in this newsgroup; Round-up is taken in thru leaves
and fleshy stems into the root system. It does NOT travel through the
ground. I would use the scientific big words for this process but you
obviously have sever problems comprehending the small ones. POURING does no
good other than saturate a plant and waste the product. You plan to use a
dilute solution? How dilute.......oh never mind, YOU are just pulling this
little weed killing fiasco out of your ass, how could you possibly answer a
question when you DON'T THINK!!

Since it isn't yet a felony to actually sell a moron this product I will
make a few suggestions that you will no doubt totally ignore as you will any
mixing or application instructions a product since it appears your SOP is
"dilute & pour".

You need some sort of a sprayer type device. If it has a wand more the
better, you'll be able to hold the end of the spray wand close to the ground
where this grass is and eliminate most drift and give you decent control of
the application. DO NOT SPRY YOUR ROSES but you can spray close to the woody
trunk/stem if you keep the spray nozzle close to the ground.. Plants do NOT
take Roundup in through the roots.

For the fastest and best results choose to do this in the early morning of a
hot, dry day. IF you should actually happen to read the instructions they
will also give you optimum time and temperatures for application. Now go
get a big bottle of red food coloring and proceed. Yes, I'm serious, RED
food coloring, go get a 1 oz. or 2 oz. bottle.

RTFI (Read The ****ing Instructions) when mixing this product in the
sprayer.....this is NOT a seat of the pants, head up your ass "I'll just
dilute some" procedure. You will find there are directions, if you RTFI,
specifically for Bermuda Grass. Lastly add the bottle of red food coloring.
This will allow you to see exactly where you have been spraying. The reddish
color will fade away in a short while from sun light and watering. Go to
the furthest point of the area to be sprayed and start there. Walk sides
ways and backwards while spraying as you would paint your way out of a
room.....NOT into a corner. This will eliminate the chance of you stepping
in the spray and then leaving dead foot tracks through your lawn when you
are distracted by butterflies and birds and go trotting off to investigate
as would a small, curious child with a very short attention span. If you
only have a little hand pump (trigger) type spray bottle BEND OVER and keep
the nozzle close to the ground while you spray. If you buy a pre-mixed spray
bottle of Roundup you can still add the red food coloring.

Let the grass get all brown and dead and crispy before you start
pulling/digging it out. Bermuda Grass needs to suck this stuff down into its
root system to kill the whole plant, you still may have to spray again in a
few weeks when you see some stray growth appearing......then go back and
read this post again before proceeding.

It's all coming back to me why I put Persephone in the PLONK file.

Val


I just get all warm and fuzzy feeling, when Val writes like that ;-)

Maybe we could turn "Perse" in to the "Santa Monica's Cooperative
Natural Grocer" for dancing with the devil, they could tune her up.

But, before you set forth, in league with the divil and armed with his
potions, have you considered that since you already have the bermuda
grass under a 3" layer of small bark mulch, why not pull the mulch back
and put plastic sheeting down over your problem, then recover with your
mulch. You could even pull up what Bermuda Grass you can first, or
maybe you just like "bad boys" and want to sleep with the devil;-)

Talking the talk AND walking the walk.

Screw Roundup! Why don't you try vinegar 1st?

"Billy" wrote in message
...
In article ,
"Val" wrote:
In article , Persephone
wrote:

Please don't lynch me for asking about the "R" word!

I just had HUGE amounts of the worst, most deep-rooted
weed-grass taken out of a rose path, and don't want to go through
that
again soon!

Already the monsters are poking through the 3" layer of
small bark mulch I put down.

So my question is: How far does Roundup travel? My
rosebushes are about 2-3 feet apart. If I put Roundup
in the middle between bushes, will it hurt them?

I wasn't planning to spray. Looks like I don't know how Roundup
works. I was just going to pour a diluted amount right on the
little monsters poking their heads out.

Is this do-able?

It only works well on the foliage. There's pretty much no root
activity. You could water plants (on the soil) with a solution of
Roundup and it won't kill them. It's supposed to bind to soil and get
inactivated quickly. I've even heard of some people using relatively
dirty water to dilute the concentrated versions, which reduces the
effectiveness.

What I really want to know is how far it travels parallel - sideways.
IOW, if I pour it on some weed poking out, when it sinks in, will it
move 2 feet to each side? One foot? Inches?

Once it reaches the soil, I wouldn't worry about it. It doesn't
affect roots, bark, or woody stems.

Rule # 1. READ THE #$%$ DIRECTIONS!!!!

Obviously you haven't. ( I am not addressing YPW.) I would assume if you
are
literate enough to post and read in a newsgroup you would be able to read
directions. This is only an assumption, I could be wrong.

I frankly don't have a problem with Roundup being used as a last resort.
I
DO have a huge problem with real ****ing ignorant people. You do not POUR
Round-up. You would know that if you had merely GLANCED at instructions
or
done a modicum of research.

As you have been told in this newsgroup; Round-up is taken in thru leaves
and fleshy stems into the root system. It does NOT travel through the
ground. I would use the scientific big words for this process but you
obviously have sever problems comprehending the small ones. POURING does
no
good other than saturate a plant and waste the product. You plan to use
a
dilute solution? How dilute.......oh never mind, YOU are just pulling
this
little weed killing fiasco out of your ass, how could you possibly answer
a
question when you DON'T THINK!!

Since it isn't yet a felony to actually sell a moron this product I will
make a few suggestions that you will no doubt totally ignore as you will
any
mixing or application instructions a product since it appears your SOP is
"dilute & pour".

You need some sort of a sprayer type device. If it has a wand more the
better, you'll be able to hold the end of the spray wand close to the
ground
where this grass is and eliminate most drift and give you decent control
of
the application. DO NOT SPRY YOUR ROSES but you can spray close to the
woody
trunk/stem if you keep the spray nozzle close to the ground.. Plants do
NOT
take Roundup in through the roots.

For the fastest and best results choose to do this in the early morning
of a
hot, dry day. IF you should actually happen to read the instructions they
will also give you optimum time and temperatures for application. Now go
get a big bottle of red food coloring and proceed. Yes, I'm serious, RED
food coloring, go get a 1 oz. or 2 oz. bottle.

RTFI (Read The ****ing Instructions) when mixing this product in the
sprayer.....this is NOT a seat of the pants, head up your ass "I'll just
dilute some" procedure. You will find there are directions, if you RTFI,
specifically for Bermuda Grass. Lastly add the bottle of red food
coloring.
This will allow you to see exactly where you have been spraying. The
reddish
color will fade away in a short while from sun light and watering. Go to
the furthest point of the area to be sprayed and start there. Walk sides
ways and backwards while spraying as you would paint your way out of a
room.....NOT into a corner. This will eliminate the chance of you
stepping
in the spray and then leaving dead foot tracks through your lawn when you
are distracted by butterflies and birds and go trotting off to
investigate
as would a small, curious child with a very short attention span. If you
only have a little hand pump (trigger) type spray bottle BEND OVER and
keep
the nozzle close to the ground while you spray. If you buy a pre-mixed
spray
bottle of Roundup you can still add the red food coloring.

Let the grass get all brown and dead and crispy before you start
pulling/digging it out. Bermuda Grass needs to suck this stuff down into
its
root system to kill the whole plant, you still may have to spray again in
a
few weeks when you see some stray growth appearing......then go back and
read this post again before proceeding.

It's all coming back to me why I put Persephone in the PLONK file.

Val


I just get all warm and fuzzy feeling, when Val writes like that ;-)

Maybe we could turn "Perse" in to the "Santa Monica's Cooperative
Natural Grocer" for dancing with the devil, they could tune her up.

But, before you set forth, in league with the divil and armed with his
potions, have you considered that since you already have the bermuda
grass under a 3" layer of small bark mulch, why not pull the mulch back
and put plastic sheeting down over your problem, then recover with your
mulch. You could even pull up what Bermuda Grass you can first, or
maybe you just like "bad boys" and want to sleep with the devil;-)

Talking the talk AND walking the walk.
--

Billy
Bush Behind Bars
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9KVTf...ef=patrick.net
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l0aEo...eature=related

Sadly, I must attest by my own experiences that Roundup does not kill
Bermuda grass. Nor does covering it with a plastic sheet, as it travels
longitudinally beyond the scope of the plastic. When the plastic sheet is
lifted, if feeds its origin. I associate Bermuda grass with the character
in the movie "Terminator". You can't kill it, and it never/ever stops.
So-called weeds are wooses compared to the venerable bermuda grass. The bad
drought in central Texas 2 years ago didn't phase my Sahara version, laid
dormant waiting for the first decent moisture to arrive. And, was first to
rise from the dead.

I also tried the hardware store version of vinegar on it. The bermuda grass
just smiled and continued on its merry way.

Bermuda grass makes a wonderful walkway, vice mulching. And, will choke out
almost any weed. Does need a trim once in awhile though. Bermuda grass is
capable of continuing by 3 different ways. Seed, longitudinal travelers,
and rootage reproducing pulled surface plant. Bermuda grass can be rid of
though. There's only one way. Turn the soil beyond its roots and expose
those roots. Pull all the bermuda grass from the turned soil. Turn the
soil again, do it again. Repeat numerous times allowing the sun to bake it
each day. Finally, seine the turned loosed soil. Don't miss any of it. If
it rains, you have to wait and turn the soil again for the sun to dry all
out. This is true of almost any area you want complete control of regarding
what grows in that region.

What puzzles me about the embedded post that was never originally posted at
this newsgroup is that original poster NEVER said anything about Bermuda
grass to begin with.
--
Dave

Persephone wrote:
On Wed, 04 Jun 2008 13:45:41 -0500, Shanghai McCoy
wrote:

[...snip unkind remarks...]

Screw Roundup! Why don't you try vinegar 1st?

OK! Will do. I love vinegar for almost everything,
including getting rust off tools. Do I just pour
it onto the crab grass?

Tx

Persephone

Put it in a sprayer. It WILL kill grass too, so watch out.

On Wed, 04 Jun 2008 22:49:45 -0500, Dioclese wrote:


You can't kill it, and it
never/ever stops. So-called weeds are wooses compared to the venerable
bermuda grass. The bad drought in central Texas 2 years ago didn't
phase my Sahara version, laid dormant waiting for the first decent
moisture to arrive. And, was first to rise from the dead.


I hate bermuda grass. I tried your technique before, turning the soil
and removing all pieces. Then repeat. Over and over. But like you
said, it comes back at the first sign of water. I found when digging a
hole that the roots go down 2 feet or more. I wonder if I will ever
win. It is the one thing I hate about my garden.

stonerfish

In article ,
Jangchub wrote:

On Sat, 07 Jun 2008 01:27:46 GMT, jellybean stonerfish
wrote:

On Wed, 04 Jun 2008 22:49:45 -0500, Dioclese wrote:


You can't kill it, and it
never/ever stops. So-called weeds are wooses compared to the venerable
bermuda grass. The bad drought in central Texas 2 years ago didn't
phase my Sahara version, laid dormant waiting for the first decent
moisture to arrive. And, was first to rise from the dead.


I hate bermuda grass. I tried your technique before, turning the soil
and removing all pieces. Then repeat. Over and over. But like you
said, it comes back at the first sign of water. I found when digging a
hole that the roots go down 2 feet or more. I wonder if I will ever
win. It is the one thing I hate about my garden.

stonerfish

Me too. There is no way to truly get rid of bermuda other than
planting trees to shade it out. It will not grow in shade. At least
in zone 8b Central Texas it doesn't. I have spent my fair share of
digging and pulling and digging and pulling and continue. I saw a
batch coming up through my mulch today and wiped my brow in disgust.
I'm not sure even glysophate gets rid of it with one shot. Maybe
three shots in blazing sun a week apart. I will have to confess that
after 15 years gardening in TX I may have to paint the bermuda with
glyphosate.

Oh, and never, never, ever plant a Mexican Elderberry. Never.

The weak link in the chain breaks, Armageddon is unleashed, and
Monsanto wins. Good going Lucrezia.
--

Billy
Bush and Pelosi Behind Bars
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9KVTf...ef=patrick.net
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l0aEo...eature=related