With our amiable discussion of "blossom end rot", and the merits of
avoiding water stress in the vine, solidly fixed in the rear view
mirror, I send along some views on watering published by our local "fish
wrap", a vassal of the NYT. Unfortunately, it says nothing about
container gardening.

http://www.pressdemocrat.com/article...0639909/1314/l
ifestyle04?Title=McCreary-Tips-on-tomatoes-and-sweet-corn

Here are a few tactics about tomato culture to keep them healthy and
productive between now and then (harvest). Most are related to watering
routines.

Extra water is not welcome. The best way to determine if water is needed
is to probe into the soil 4 to 6 inches beneath the surface. The top
inch or two should always dry out a bit before rewatering to guard
against fungal diseases, but lower levels should stay moist, never
soggy. Because clay soil holds water longer than sandy ground, watering
is never the same in these two conditions even when both types are
heavily mulched, as they should be. With clay, tomatoes may need
watering only once a week.

Guard against flavor loss. Too much water reduces flavor in tomatoes
just as it does with berries and other fruits. Flavor loss may also be
attributed to weather, but that, of course, is beyond our control.
Sub-soil moisture lasts. Watering deeply and infrequently is good
general advice for many plants, both edible and ornamental, that are
planted in heavy soil. Even though we probe with a trowel to determine
moisture content below the surface, we can never test the deeper layers
where tomato roots extend. Frequent heavy watering saturates lower
levels of soil and deep roots will rot.

Don't fret about drought. At least, not if you've prepped the soil with
plenty of compost before you planted. Several years ago, a gardening
friend replicated the technique that his father had used in growing
tomatoes by not watering during summer, not even once. At planting time
he used a posthole digger to remove 3 feet of clay soil, amended half
the volume of soil with compost, and watered thoroughly. As he expected,
he harvested a fine crop.

Go light on fertilizer. Although tomatoes benefit greatly from fertile
soil, too much of a good thing goes wrong. Side dressing with compost
and/or applying light doses of fish emulsion every month is all that's
needed. Too much nitrogen produces an excess of foliage and a paucity of
fruit.
-----

Wishing you all the best of barbecues for the week-end, especially here
in the US, where we celebrate throwing off our colonial masters by
observing "Independence Day". Additionally, I wish a quick return home
for our boys and girls overseas, and justice for the greedy, who have
wrought so much pain and suffering in the world.
--
- Billy
"Fascism should more properly be called corporatism because it is the
merger of state and corporate power." - Benito Mussolini.
http://www.democracynow.org/2010/7/2/maude
http://www.democracynow.org/2010/6/2...al_crime_scene

In article
,
Billy wrote:

With our amiable discussion of "blossom end rot", and the merits of
avoiding water stress in the vine, solidly fixed in the rear view
mirror, I send along some views on watering published by our local "fish
wrap", a vassal of the NYT. Unfortunately, it says nothing about
container gardening.

http://www.pressdemocrat.com/article...0639909/1314/l
ifestyle04?Title=McCreary-Tips-on-tomatoes-and-sweet-corn

Here are a few tactics about tomato culture to keep them healthy and
productive between now and then (harvest). Most are related to watering
routines.

Extra water is not welcome. The best way to determine if water is needed
is to probe into the soil 4 to 6 inches beneath the surface. The top
inch or two should always dry out a bit before rewatering to guard
against fungal diseases, but lower levels should stay moist, never
soggy. Because clay soil holds water longer than sandy ground, watering
is never the same in these two conditions even when both types are
heavily mulched, as they should be. With clay, tomatoes may need
watering only once a week.

Guard against flavor loss. Too much water reduces flavor in tomatoes
just as it does with berries and other fruits. Flavor loss may also be
attributed to weather, but that, of course, is beyond our control.
Sub-soil moisture lasts. Watering deeply and infrequently is good
general advice for many plants, both edible and ornamental, that are
planted in heavy soil. Even though we probe with a trowel to determine
moisture content below the surface, we can never test the deeper layers
where tomato roots extend. Frequent heavy watering saturates lower
levels of soil and deep roots will rot.

Don't fret about drought. At least, not if you've prepped the soil with
plenty of compost before you planted. Several years ago, a gardening
friend replicated the technique that his father had used in growing
tomatoes by not watering during summer, not even once. At planting time
he used a posthole digger to remove 3 feet of clay soil, amended half
the volume of soil with compost, and watered thoroughly. As he expected,
he harvested a fine crop.

Go light on fertilizer. Although tomatoes benefit greatly from fertile
soil, too much of a good thing goes wrong. Side dressing with compost
and/or applying light doses of fish emulsion every month is all that's
needed. Too much nitrogen produces an excess of foliage and a paucity of
fruit.
-----

Wishing you all the best of barbecues for the week-end, especially here
in the US, where we celebrate throwing off our colonial masters by
observing "Independence Day". Additionally, I wish a quick return home
for our boys and girls overseas, and justice for the greedy, who have
wrought so much pain and suffering in the world.

Useful info in one place. As usual.

I grow Phlox as a early warning for the need to water. When it droops
time to water. I tend to drip often and sometimes before the Phlox says
help. Especially when it is going hot.

Currently graphing our high water table from April which flooded many
homes from the bottom up and played havoc with septic fields. . First
time in 60 years. Strange hoe a few feet of water level can have such
effect.

But now it is July 3 and the surface moisture and humidity are low so
we are on fire watch. Perhap 100 F. Tuesday.

--
Bill S. Jersey USA zone 5 shade garden
What use one more wake up call?
http://comment.rsablogs.org.uk/videos/
http://tinyurl.com/277bz9m

"Bill who putters" wrote in message
...
In article
,
Billy wrote:

With our amiable discussion of "blossom end rot", and the merits of
avoiding water stress in the vine, solidly fixed in the rear view
mirror, I send along some views on watering published by our local
"fish
wrap", a vassal of the NYT. Unfortunately, it says nothing about
container gardening.

http://www.pressdemocrat.com/article...0639909/1314/l
ifestyle04?Title=McCreary-Tips-on-tomatoes-and-sweet-corn

Here are a few tactics about tomato culture to keep them healthy and
productive between now and then (harvest). Most are related to
watering
routines.

Extra water is not welcome. The best way to determine if water is
needed
is to probe into the soil 4 to 6 inches beneath the surface. The top
inch or two should always dry out a bit before rewatering to guard
against fungal diseases, but lower levels should stay moist, never
soggy. Because clay soil holds water longer than sandy ground,
watering
is never the same in these two conditions even when both types are
heavily mulched, as they should be. With clay, tomatoes may need
watering only once a week.

Guard against flavor loss. Too much water reduces flavor in tomatoes
just as it does with berries and other fruits. Flavor loss may also
be
attributed to weather, but that, of course, is beyond our control.
Sub-soil moisture lasts. Watering deeply and infrequently is good
general advice for many plants, both edible and ornamental, that are
planted in heavy soil. Even though we probe with a trowel to
determine
moisture content below the surface, we can never test the deeper
layers
where tomato roots extend. Frequent heavy watering saturates lower
levels of soil and deep roots will rot.

Don't fret about drought. At least, not if you've prepped the soil
with
plenty of compost before you planted. Several years ago, a gardening
friend replicated the technique that his father had used in growing
tomatoes by not watering during summer, not even once. At planting
time
he used a posthole digger to remove 3 feet of clay soil, amended half
the volume of soil with compost, and watered thoroughly. As he
expected,
he harvested a fine crop.

Go light on fertilizer. Although tomatoes benefit greatly from
fertile
soil, too much of a good thing goes wrong. Side dressing with compost
and/or applying light doses of fish emulsion every month is all
that's
needed. Too much nitrogen produces an excess of foliage and a paucity
of
fruit.
-----

Wishing you all the best of barbecues for the week-end, especially
here
in the US, where we celebrate throwing off our colonial masters by
observing "Independence Day". Additionally, I wish a quick return
home
for our boys and girls overseas, and justice for the greedy, who have
wrought so much pain and suffering in the world.

Useful info in one place. As usual.

I grow Phlox as a early warning for the need to water. When it droops
time to water. I tend to drip often and sometimes before the Phlox
says
help. Especially when it is going hot.

Currently graphing our high water table from April which flooded many
homes from the bottom up and played havoc with septic fields. . First
time in 60 years. Strange hoe a few feet of water level can have such
effect.

But now it is July 3 and the surface moisture and humidity are low
so
we are on fire watch. Perhap 100 F. Tuesday.

--

My Tomato plants are in pots, So I find myself watering just about every
to every other day. Dry weather sucks the moisture out of the pots.
Plenty of brown lawns can be found in our area.

Cheers
Zone 6/7a

In article ,
Bill who putters wrote:

In article
,
Billy wrote:

With our amiable discussion of "blossom end rot", and the merits of
avoiding water stress in the vine, solidly fixed in the rear view
mirror, I send along some views on watering published by our local "fish
wrap", a vassal of the NYT. Unfortunately, it says nothing about
container gardening.

http://www.pressdemocrat.com/article...0639909/1314/l
ifestyle04?Title=McCreary-Tips-on-tomatoes-and-sweet-corn

Here are a few tactics about tomato culture to keep them healthy and
productive between now and then (harvest). Most are related to watering
routines.

Extra water is not welcome. The best way to determine if water is needed
is to probe into the soil 4 to 6 inches beneath the surface. The top
inch or two should always dry out a bit before rewatering to guard
against fungal diseases, but lower levels should stay moist, never
soggy. Because clay soil holds water longer than sandy ground, watering
is never the same in these two conditions even when both types are
heavily mulched, as they should be. With clay, tomatoes may need
watering only once a week.

Guard against flavor loss. Too much water reduces flavor in tomatoes
just as it does with berries and other fruits. Flavor loss may also be
attributed to weather, but that, of course, is beyond our control.
Sub-soil moisture lasts. Watering deeply and infrequently is good
general advice for many plants, both edible and ornamental, that are
planted in heavy soil. Even though we probe with a trowel to determine
moisture content below the surface, we can never test the deeper layers
where tomato roots extend. Frequent heavy watering saturates lower
levels of soil and deep roots will rot.

Don't fret about drought. At least, not if you've prepped the soil with
plenty of compost before you planted. Several years ago, a gardening
friend replicated the technique that his father had used in growing
tomatoes by not watering during summer, not even once. At planting time
he used a posthole digger to remove 3 feet of clay soil, amended half
the volume of soil with compost, and watered thoroughly. As he expected,
he harvested a fine crop.

Go light on fertilizer. Although tomatoes benefit greatly from fertile
soil, too much of a good thing goes wrong. Side dressing with compost
and/or applying light doses of fish emulsion every month is all that's
needed. Too much nitrogen produces an excess of foliage and a paucity of
fruit.
-----

Wishing you all the best of barbecues for the week-end, especially here
in the US, where we celebrate throwing off our colonial masters by
observing "Independence Day". Additionally, I wish a quick return home
for our boys and girls overseas, and justice for the greedy, who have
wrought so much pain and suffering in the world.

Useful info in one place. As usual.

I grow Phlox as a early warning for the need to water. When it droops
time to water. I tend to drip often and sometimes before the Phlox says
help. Especially when it is going hot.

Currently graphing our high water table from April which flooded many
homes from the bottom up and played havoc with septic fields. . First
time in 60 years. Strange hoe a few feet of water level can have such
effect.

But now it is July 3 and the surface moisture and humidity are low so
we are on fire watch. Perhap 100 F. Tuesday.

BTW This in process now as son on way here.

Crab and Asparagus Soup
With green onions and cilantro



Ingredients


2 Tbls. Peanut Oil
1/2 cup Shallots peeled and sliced
1 lb. Crab meat
4 cups Chicken stock
1 lb. Asparagus
2 eggs beaten
2 Tbls. Fish sauce
3 Tbls. Soy sauce

1 Tbls. Corn starch
I Tbls. Water
To taste white pepper


3 Tbls. Chopped Cilantro
3 Tbls. Chopped green onions ( Green Part only )
1 Cup pea sprouts


Method

1. Sweat the shallots in the oil over medium heat. Add the crab and
Asparagus sauté 2 minutes stir gently

2. Add chicken stock bring to a boil . Slowly pour in eggs while
stirring gently. Use a Crockpot pot.

3. Combine the corn starch and water in a small bowl and mix to make a
slurry. Pour into the boiling soup while stirring and cook five minutes.

4. Remove from heat and add the soy sauce, fish sauce and white pepper.

5. Ladle into warm deep bowls and garnish with Cilantro, green Onions,
Pea sprouts and tempura fried Asparagus spears. Serve immediately.

--
Bill S. Jersey USA zone 5 shade garden
What use one more wake up call?
http://comment.rsablogs.org.uk/videos/
http://tinyurl.com/277bz9m

In article ,
Bill who putters wrote:

In article ,
Bill who putters wrote:

In article
,
Billy wrote:

With our amiable discussion of "blossom end rot", and the merits of
avoiding water stress in the vine, solidly fixed in the rear view
mirror, I send along some views on watering published by our local "fish
wrap", a vassal of the NYT. Unfortunately, it says nothing about
container gardening.

http://www.pressdemocrat.com/article...0639909/1314/l
ifestyle04?Title=McCreary-Tips-on-tomatoes-and-sweet-corn

Here are a few tactics about tomato culture to keep them healthy and
productive between now and then (harvest). Most are related to watering
routines.

Extra water is not welcome. The best way to determine if water is needed
is to probe into the soil 4 to 6 inches beneath the surface. The top
inch or two should always dry out a bit before rewatering to guard
against fungal diseases, but lower levels should stay moist, never
soggy. Because clay soil holds water longer than sandy ground, watering
is never the same in these two conditions even when both types are
heavily mulched, as they should be. With clay, tomatoes may need
watering only once a week.

Guard against flavor loss. Too much water reduces flavor in tomatoes
just as it does with berries and other fruits. Flavor loss may also be
attributed to weather, but that, of course, is beyond our control.
Sub-soil moisture lasts. Watering deeply and infrequently is good
general advice for many plants, both edible and ornamental, that are
planted in heavy soil. Even though we probe with a trowel to determine
moisture content below the surface, we can never test the deeper layers
where tomato roots extend. Frequent heavy watering saturates lower
levels of soil and deep roots will rot.

Don't fret about drought. At least, not if you've prepped the soil with
plenty of compost before you planted. Several years ago, a gardening
friend replicated the technique that his father had used in growing
tomatoes by not watering during summer, not even once. At planting time
he used a posthole digger to remove 3 feet of clay soil, amended half
the volume of soil with compost, and watered thoroughly. As he expected,
he harvested a fine crop.

Go light on fertilizer. Although tomatoes benefit greatly from fertile
soil, too much of a good thing goes wrong. Side dressing with compost
and/or applying light doses of fish emulsion every month is all that's
needed. Too much nitrogen produces an excess of foliage and a paucity of
fruit.
-----

Wishing you all the best of barbecues for the week-end, especially here
in the US, where we celebrate throwing off our colonial masters by
observing "Independence Day". Additionally, I wish a quick return home
for our boys and girls overseas, and justice for the greedy, who have
wrought so much pain and suffering in the world.

Useful info in one place. As usual.

I grow Phlox as a early warning for the need to water. When it droops
time to water. I tend to drip often and sometimes before the Phlox says
help. Especially when it is going hot.

Currently graphing our high water table from April which flooded many
homes from the bottom up and played havoc with septic fields. . First
time in 60 years. Strange hoe a few feet of water level can have such
effect.

But now it is July 3 and the surface moisture and humidity are low so
we are on fire watch. Perhap 100 F. Tuesday.

BTW This in process now as son on way here.

Crab and Asparagus Soup
With green onions and cilantro



Ingredients


2 Tbls. Peanut Oil
1/2 cup Shallots peeled and sliced
1 lb. Crab meat
4 cups Chicken stock
1 lb. Asparagus
2 eggs beaten
2 Tbls. Fish sauce
3 Tbls. Soy sauce

1 Tbls. Corn starch
I Tbls. Water
To taste white pepper


3 Tbls. Chopped Cilantro
3 Tbls. Chopped green onions ( Green Part only )
1 Cup pea sprouts


Method

1. Sweat the shallots in the oil over medium heat. Add the crab and
Asparagus sauté 2 minutes stir gently

2. Add chicken stock bring to a boil . Slowly pour in eggs while
stirring gently. Use a Crockpot pot.

3. Combine the corn starch and water in a small bowl and mix to make a
slurry. Pour into the boiling soup while stirring and cook five minutes.

4. Remove from heat and add the soy sauce, fish sauce and white pepper.

5. Ladle into warm deep bowls and garnish with Cilantro, green Onions,
Pea sprouts and tempura fried Asparagus spears. Serve immediately.

Looks good, but soup on a hot day?
--
- Billy
"Fascism should more properly be called corporatism because it is the
merger of state and corporate power." - Benito Mussolini.
http://www.democracynow.org/2010/7/2/maude
http://www.democracynow.org/2010/6/2...al_crime_scene

In article
,
Billy wrote:

In article ,
Bill who putters wrote:

In article ,
Bill who putters wrote:

In article
,
Billy wrote:

With our amiable discussion of "blossom end rot", and the merits of
avoiding water stress in the vine, solidly fixed in the rear view
mirror, I send along some views on watering published by our local
"fish
wrap", a vassal of the NYT. Unfortunately, it says nothing about
container gardening.

http://www.pressdemocrat.com/article...00639909/1314/
l
ifestyle04?Title=McCreary-Tips-on-tomatoes-and-sweet-corn

Here are a few tactics about tomato culture to keep them healthy and
productive between now and then (harvest). Most are related to watering
routines.

Extra water is not welcome. The best way to determine if water is
needed
is to probe into the soil 4 to 6 inches beneath the surface. The top
inch or two should always dry out a bit before rewatering to guard
against fungal diseases, but lower levels should stay moist, never
soggy. Because clay soil holds water longer than sandy ground, watering
is never the same in these two conditions even when both types are
heavily mulched, as they should be. With clay, tomatoes may need
watering only once a week.

Guard against flavor loss. Too much water reduces flavor in tomatoes
just as it does with berries and other fruits. Flavor loss may also be
attributed to weather, but that, of course, is beyond our control.
Sub-soil moisture lasts. Watering deeply and infrequently is good
general advice for many plants, both edible and ornamental, that are
planted in heavy soil. Even though we probe with a trowel to determine
moisture content below the surface, we can never test the deeper layers
where tomato roots extend. Frequent heavy watering saturates lower
levels of soil and deep roots will rot.

Don't fret about drought. At least, not if you've prepped the soil with
plenty of compost before you planted. Several years ago, a gardening
friend replicated the technique that his father had used in growing
tomatoes by not watering during summer, not even once. At planting time
he used a posthole digger to remove 3 feet of clay soil, amended half
the volume of soil with compost, and watered thoroughly. As he
expected,
he harvested a fine crop.

Go light on fertilizer. Although tomatoes benefit greatly from fertile
soil, too much of a good thing goes wrong. Side dressing with compost
and/or applying light doses of fish emulsion every month is all that's
needed. Too much nitrogen produces an excess of foliage and a paucity
of
fruit.
-----

Wishing you all the best of barbecues for the week-end, especially here
in the US, where we celebrate throwing off our colonial masters by
observing "Independence Day". Additionally, I wish a quick return home
for our boys and girls overseas, and justice for the greedy, who have
wrought so much pain and suffering in the world.

Useful info in one place. As usual.

I grow Phlox as a early warning for the need to water. When it droops
time to water. I tend to drip often and sometimes before the Phlox says
help. Especially when it is going hot.

Currently graphing our high water table from April which flooded many
homes from the bottom up and played havoc with septic fields. . First
time in 60 years. Strange hoe a few feet of water level can have such
effect.

But now it is July 3 and the surface moisture and humidity are low so
we are on fire watch. Perhap 100 F. Tuesday.

BTW This in process now as son on way here.

Crab and Asparagus Soup
With green onions and cilantro



Ingredients


2 Tbls. Peanut Oil
1/2 cup Shallots peeled and sliced
1 lb. Crab meat
4 cups Chicken stock
1 lb. Asparagus
2 eggs beaten
2 Tbls. Fish sauce
3 Tbls. Soy sauce

1 Tbls. Corn starch
I Tbls. Water
To taste white pepper


3 Tbls. Chopped Cilantro
3 Tbls. Chopped green onions ( Green Part only )
1 Cup pea sprouts


Method

1. Sweat the shallots in the oil over medium heat. Add the crab and
Asparagus sauté 2 minutes stir gently

2. Add chicken stock bring to a boil . Slowly pour in eggs while
stirring gently. Use a Crockpot pot.

3. Combine the corn starch and water in a small bowl and mix to make a
slurry. Pour into the boiling soup while stirring and cook five minutes.

4. Remove from heat and add the soy sauce, fish sauce and white pepper.

5. Ladle into warm deep bowls and garnish with Cilantro, green Onions,
Pea sprouts and tempura fried Asparagus spears. Serve immediately.

Looks good, but soup on a hot day?

You have to be a bit crazy but those crazy Arabs drink hot tea ... Hmmmm

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tea


Kids about and given small tasks it is good.

--
Bill S. Jersey USA zone 5 shade garden
What use one more wake up call?
http://comment.rsablogs.org.uk/videos/
http://tinyurl.com/277bz9m