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vinegar and disk soap weed killer is not working
On 04/19/2016 05:48 PM, songbird wrote:
T wrote: ... Thank you. I am wondering where to get some cow poop. We have lots of cows about, but I haven't seen anyone selling it. may not be around easily found if all the cattle are free range and no dairies. the home depot option is fine for small amounts needed if you are doing small patch amending. worms/worm castings are good too and you can use those weed scraps as part of the food. I got in late last night. I put my headset on and cut a four foot wide swath through the weeds. When I am done picking them and they dry out a bit, I am planning on digging them into holes that I will eventually plant zukes in. you'll want some green stuff in there too, get it in a few weeks before you put the plants in. if you do a few layers deep alternating green stuff, brown stuff and some dirt, topsoil and composted cow manure you'll have a nice start. keep it damp (not needed to be super soggy). Here is an interesting observation. I think the weeds were always there in my lawn. When the grass dies, the weeds stayed. there is usually some remaining seeds in almost any soil unless it has been sterilized in some manner. the seeds of some plants will last quite a long time (especially in the more arid climates). i heard that crab grass seed can last 75yrs... i don't much care for lawns/grass and everything being even and perfect. a mulching mower and frequent trimming when the wet/growing season is on will select for plants that can tolerate that sort of treatment. good enough for me until i can get rid of the mower entirely. for very hard soils i'd just go up top with hay bales and use them to frame a small area and plant the zukes into a mix of topsoil and composted cow manure or the worm castings. the hay bales will eventually break down and turn into humus. they have more weed seeds than straw bales, but i like having green stuff eventually rotting. some people mulch with straw, we usually have wood chips. when those rot they turn into prime humus. if you can find anyone trimming trees and grinding them up they are often happy to deliver a truckload if they happen to be in your area, just ask. because i want woody materials to last longer rather than rot fast i don't want things shredded too finely. some larger chunks are good, they help hold moisture. as a top mulch i want fairly large chips or even have used pieces of bark to cover in between plants (sometimes with cardboard underneath them). really, it doesn't matter what exact organic materials you can find or grow, most of will break down into humus eventually if you have moisture/rains and the soil critters to help things out (and fungi too). songbird Thank you! The dandelions I recognize as I have been trying to kill them for years. Vinegar might not kill them, but it sure screws them something terrible, so it may only be an emotional thing for me. Cow poop it is! I will see what I can find in a bag. Hope getting it home doesn't stick up my car. -T |
#2
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vinegar and disk soap weed killer is not working
T wrote:
.... The dandelions I recognize as I have been trying to kill them for years. Vinegar might not kill them, but it sure screws them something terrible, so it may only be an emotional thing for me. i like dandelions, Ma just mows them down when they start flowering and then about every three to four days, not many make it to seed stage. Cow poop it is! I will see what I can find in a bag. Hope getting it home doesn't stick up my car. it is composted already, doesn't stink like much of anything that i recall, it's very low nutrient organic material, that is why i use wood chips instead, can get them much cheaper/free. can you grow alfalfa anywhere on your property? that's a good source of N to add to a heap for growing zukes. or get a few bags of alfalfa pellets to mix in your piles. for the money i think they're better than composted cow poo. we have another landscaper guy we talked to this morning who will drop off wood chips when he's out this way and has tree work as it saves him from having to haul them somewhere else to dump. for the cost of gas it will be a bargain. i see you mention being able to grow ponderosa pines. the needles from those would be good humus eventually too. they do not acidify nearly as much as some people think. humus itself is mildly acidic. just be happy to scrounge any free organics you can and then let nature do the rest. you'll get some good topsoil eventually. have i shown you this picture before? http://www.anthive.com/flowers/100_6775_Wormies.jpg the light colored soil is our native clay mixed with some sand (if we can get it) and then the dark is what happens when i take some of that native soil and recondition it for a year in the worm buckets. songbird |
#3
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vinegar and disk soap weed killer is not working
On 04/21/2016 10:14 AM, songbird wrote:
T wrote: ... The dandelions I recognize as I have been trying to kill them for years. Vinegar might not kill them, but it sure screws them something terrible, so it may only be an emotional thing for me. i like dandelions, Ma just mows them down when they start flowering and then about every three to four days, not many make it to seed stage. Cow poop it is! I will see what I can find in a bag. Hope getting it home doesn't stick up my car. it is composted already, doesn't stink like much of anything that i recall, it's very low nutrient organic material, that is why i use wood chips instead, can get them much cheaper/free. can you grow alfalfa anywhere on your property? that's a good source of N to add to a heap for growing zukes. or get a few bags of alfalfa pellets to mix in your piles. for the money i think they're better than composted cow poo. we have another landscaper guy we talked to this morning who will drop off wood chips when he's out this way and has tree work as it saves him from having to haul them somewhere else to dump. for the cost of gas it will be a bargain. i see you mention being able to grow ponderosa pines. the needles from those would be good humus eventually too. they do not acidify nearly as much as some people think. humus itself is mildly acidic. just be happy to scrounge any free organics you can and then let nature do the rest. you'll get some good topsoil eventually. have i shown you this picture before? http://www.anthive.com/flowers/100_6775_Wormies.jpg the light colored soil is our native clay mixed with some sand (if we can get it) and then the dark is what happens when i take some of that native soil and recondition it for a year in the worm buckets. songbird Awesome! I am told by someone to use "Canadian Peatmoss" to acidify the soil quickly. Also, the "someone" said my alkaline sold is hurting my zuke production too. You thoughts? -T You do realize I think you know everything about gardening. Picked all my pull-able weeds yesterday. Soon as the ground dries out a bit from today's rain, I am going to go at the ground huggers with my 20% vinegar and my pump bottle sprayer. http://www.amazon.com/Chapin-20000-1...ilpage_o06_s00 Hope it works as well as pouring a cups of 6% straight on them. Man does that mess up a dandelion. Then I make my ground pots. |
#4
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vinegar and disk soap weed killer is not working
T wrote:
.... I am told by someone to use "Canadian Peatmoss" to acidify the soil quickly. Also, the "someone" said my alkaline sold is hurting my zuke production too. You thoughts? powdered sulfur sprinkled on any organic materials will help, but organic materials alone should also moderate alkalinity as long as you have a decent water source. songbird |
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