I have had problems getting Basil to start from seed in a raised bed
outdoors. I even covered the seed with a peat moss-soil-vermiculite mixture
that wouldn't crust. I sprinkle it once or twice a day . .could it be that
the new seedlings, which have very tiny leaf surfaces, are getting destroyed
in the sprinkling? How do you do it?

In our last fun filled episode, Wed, 18 Jun 2003 05:32:01 -0600,
"Darwin Vander Stelt" proclaimed:

I have had problems getting Basil to start from seed in a raised bed
outdoors. I even covered the seed with a peat moss-soil-vermiculite mixture
that wouldn't crust. I sprinkle it once or twice a day . .could it be that
the new seedlings, which have very tiny leaf surfaces, are getting destroyed
in the sprinkling? How do you do it?

You don't say what USDA zone you're in or what the current night
time lows are. My first guess would be that it's too cool for
the seeds to germinate, my second would be that you're
over-watering and they're damping off.

Basil reseeds itself for me every year, although with the cool,
wet spring we've had, I'm just now starting to see a lot of
plants. Except for the lemon basil...yikes! It's like a lemon
basil invasion in the back garden.

Pam

On Wed, 18 Jun 2003 05:32:01 -0600, "Darwin Vander Stelt"
wrote:

I have had problems getting Basil to start from seed in a raised bed
outdoors. I even covered the seed with a peat moss-soil-vermiculite mixture
that wouldn't crust. I sprinkle it once or twice a day . .could it be that
the new seedlings, which have very tiny leaf surfaces, are getting destroyed
in the sprinkling? How do you do it?


I start basil indoors. I start everything that I possibly
can indoors: I have much better luck with seeds sown
indoors.

Pat

In article ,
says...
I start basil indoors. I start everything that I possibly
can indoors: I have much better luck with seeds sown
indoors.

Agreed. I even start some things indoors that you aren't supposed to.
For example, spinach. It may grow in cool weather but at least in my
experience it prefers to germinate at 70F or so. As long as I transplant
it into the garden within a week after it sprouts, it works fine.

--
Where ARE those Iraqi WMDs?

Darwin Vander Stelt wrote:

I have had problems getting Basil to start from seed in a raised bed
outdoors. I even covered the seed with a peat moss-soil-vermiculite mixture
that wouldn't crust. I sprinkle it once or twice a day . .could it be that
the new seedlings, which have very tiny leaf surfaces, are getting destroyed
in the sprinkling? How do you do it?

I use those styrofoam seed starting trays, over a capillary mat (some
sort of felted synthetic fiber) that dangles into a water reservoir.
It's called "Propamatic" and bills itself as a self watering seed
starter; it was a present from my mother, who got it from one of those
gardening catalogs who stopped mailing me when they noticed I never
bought from them. (That's why I can't tell you which one.)

In any case, the self-watering means that I never disrupt seedlings by
watering them.

I fill each 'cell' with damp (the usual "like a wet sponge") seed
starting mix then
sprinkle basil seeds over the 'rough terrain' and then tamp it down.
This seems to get the seeds to the right depth; they usually sprout
within a few days.

--

programmer, author http://www.midnightbeach.com
and father http://www.midnightbeach.com/hs

I started my basil in a window box and I am now transplanting bunches into
my garden and pots. I used a regular potting mix (peat, vermiculite,
perlite) and covered the seeds with 1/4" of potting mix. I wet the soil
completely and put plastic saran wrap across the top. It was on a table
outside on my screened in porch facing a west position (lots of afternoon
sun). With the plastic wrap, I don't think I had to wet it again until the
seedlings popped up. They sprouted within a couple of days and I took the
plastic off. After removing the plastic, if the soil looked dry, I used a
mist bottle. You could also use a fine mist setting on your hose nozzle.
Your problem may be overwatering and they are rotting, or as you said, maybe
the sprinkling is too harsh and it it damaging them.

Penny
Zone 7b - North Carolina
"Darwin Vander Stelt" wrote in message
...
I have had problems getting Basil to start from seed in a raised bed
outdoors. I even covered the seed with a peat moss-soil-vermiculite
mixture
that wouldn't crust. I sprinkle it once or twice a day . .could it be
that
the new seedlings, which have very tiny leaf surfaces, are getting
destroyed
in the sprinkling? How do you do it?

"Darwin Vander Stelt" wrote in message ...
I have had problems getting Basil to start from seed in a raised bed
outdoors. I even covered the seed with a peat moss-soil-vermiculite mixture
that wouldn't crust. I sprinkle it once or twice a day . .could it be that
the new seedlings, which have very tiny leaf surfaces, are getting destroyed
in the sprinkling? How do you do it?


My vote is for too much watering. Where are you? Is the soil truely
warm there yet? Unless the soil is warm the seeds will not germinate.
You can always start them indoors if you have a warm window sill.

jc

On Wed, 18 Jun 2003 12:43:36 -0700, Larry Blanchard
wrote:

In article ,
says...
I start basil indoors. I start everything that I possibly
can indoors: I have much better luck with seeds sown
indoors.

Agreed. I even start some things indoors that you aren't supposed to.
For example, spinach. It may grow in cool weather but at least in my
experience it prefers to germinate at 70F or so. As long as I transplant
it into the garden within a week after it sprouts, it works fine.

Me too. I start both beets and carrots indoors and have had
good results by doing so.

At the moment, the only thing I'm NOT starting indoors is
snap beans. I'm not growing corn this year, but I'll
probably start it indoors when I do.

(I don't grow spinach as I prefer chard, and find it vastly
more productive than spinach.)

Pat

Basil has turned out to be one of the easier plants to start inside. I
don't even fool with starting it outdoors. First I mix a starting soil by
adding 30 percent sand and some extra perlite to a light potting soil. I
use 3 x 3 (9 cells per) starter trays set in a larger plastic tray with
ridges on the bottom so I can bottom water.

I fill the pots, leaving room for another 1/4 inch of mix. Add the seeds (2
per cell), top off with 1/4 inch mix, and then lightly compress. Bottom
water, and confirm that the soil at the top of the cells is good and damp.

I toss the whole thing on a seed starter heat mat and get great germination
in 72 hours - even though the seed pack states a 5 day germination period.
I often turn off the heat mat on day four, and follow up with a 4 tube
flourscent light placed as close as I can get it, timed for an 18 hour day.
From this point on, bottom water or spritz as needed. Thin as you wish.

Transplant 2 weeks after the frost date for your area - new basil plants
often don't like temps under 40 - 45 degrees F.

Probably not the only way to do it, so just my .02, but it works pretty
reliably for me.

Cya! Wacko!

"Darwin Vander Stelt" wrote in message
...
I have had problems getting Basil to start from seed in a raised bed
outdoors. I even covered the seed with a peat moss-soil-vermiculite
mixture
that wouldn't crust. I sprinkle it once or twice a day . .could it be
that
the new seedlings, which have very tiny leaf surfaces, are getting
destroyed
in the sprinkling? How do you do it?

"Darwin Vander Stelt" wrote in message
...
I have had problems getting Basil to start from seed in a raised bed
outdoors. I even covered the seed with a peat moss-soil-vermiculite
mixture
that wouldn't crust. I sprinkle it once or twice a day . .could it
be that
the new seedlings, which have very tiny leaf surfaces, are getting
destroyed
in the sprinkling? How do you do it?

Along with others, I vote for too much watering, though cold soil
could do it also. Here is Missouri, we planted our basil in the ground
in mid-May and promptly went on a two week vacation. Apparently it
rained only once while we were gone, but when we returned basil was up
and growing.

Guy Bradley
Chesterfield MO
zone 6