"Frogleg" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 15 Mar 2004 18:53:10 GMT, "FDR"
wrote:

Frogleg wrote:

On Mon, 15 Mar 2004 01:57:16 GMT, "FDR" wrote

Looking through the Garden Tools by Lee Valley catalog, I came across
a
tomato staking method using spirals. Basically, it's a 6 foot long
piece of
metal that you push into the ground and it is spiraled all the way
up.

I like those cages from Gardener's supply too, but I can't see myself
paying
so much for them. If they were cheaper I'd definitely get them.

Go somewhere like Home Depot and get a roll of 6" mesh concrete
reinforcing wire. Ask about what kind of tool you need to cut the
wire.

Here's a rough illustration and directions:


http://www.extension.umn.edu/project...37trellis.html

This page suggests tying the cage to a stake, but if you snip off the
bottom wire, you'll have a 6" multi-spike perimeter to put into the
ground. These are sturdy, last for years and years, and do a good job
of supporting the tomatoes.

Though they are certainly sturdy, I don't think they'd be for me since my
wife wouldn't appreciate the aesthetics or lack of easy storage capability.

"Frogleg" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 15 Mar 2004 18:53:10 GMT, "FDR"
wrote:

Frogleg wrote:

On Mon, 15 Mar 2004 01:57:16 GMT, "FDR" wrote

Looking through the Garden Tools by Lee Valley catalog, I came across
a
tomato staking method using spirals. Basically, it's a 6 foot long
piece of
metal that you push into the ground and it is spiraled all the way
up.

I like those cages from Gardener's supply too, but I can't see myself
paying
so much for them. If they were cheaper I'd definitely get them.

Go somewhere like Home Depot and get a roll of 6" mesh concrete
reinforcing wire. Ask about what kind of tool you need to cut the
wire.

Here's a rough illustration and directions:


http://www.extension.umn.edu/project...37trellis.html

This page suggests tying the cage to a stake, but if you snip off the
bottom wire, you'll have a 6" multi-spike perimeter to put into the
ground. These are sturdy, last for years and years, and do a good job
of supporting the tomatoes.

Though they are certainly sturdy, I don't think they'd be for me since my
wife wouldn't appreciate the aesthetics or lack of easy storage capability.

"Frogleg" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 15 Mar 2004 18:53:10 GMT, "FDR"
wrote:

Frogleg wrote:

On Mon, 15 Mar 2004 01:57:16 GMT, "FDR" wrote

Looking through the Garden Tools by Lee Valley catalog, I came across
a
tomato staking method using spirals. Basically, it's a 6 foot long
piece of
metal that you push into the ground and it is spiraled all the way
up.

I like those cages from Gardener's supply too, but I can't see myself
paying
so much for them. If they were cheaper I'd definitely get them.

Go somewhere like Home Depot and get a roll of 6" mesh concrete
reinforcing wire. Ask about what kind of tool you need to cut the
wire.

Here's a rough illustration and directions:


http://www.extension.umn.edu/project...37trellis.html

This page suggests tying the cage to a stake, but if you snip off the
bottom wire, you'll have a 6" multi-spike perimeter to put into the
ground. These are sturdy, last for years and years, and do a good job
of supporting the tomatoes.

Though they are certainly sturdy, I don't think they'd be for me since my
wife wouldn't appreciate the aesthetics or lack of easy storage capability.

Loki wrote:

I'd like to try staking this year. Just don't know what method to use.

I read one just a week ago. They put stakes in at each end (10feet)
and planted the tomatoes in between. then as they grew they wove
twine from one stake to the other, and adding twine as the toms grew
taller. I didn't see a picture, but they must use 2 twine each time
to hold the plant. It said they grew much better that when
individually staked.

This is how I do it:
http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/View...766&p=60247499
http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/View...766&p=60247632

I plant peas on the outside, the tomatoes on the inside. The tomatoes reach the
trellis just about the time the peas are done. The stakes are buried a good two
feet, and the whole thing has lasted 5 years so far.

--

Julie

Loki wrote:

I'd like to try staking this year. Just don't know what method to use.

I read one just a week ago. They put stakes in at each end (10feet)
and planted the tomatoes in between. then as they grew they wove
twine from one stake to the other, and adding twine as the toms grew
taller. I didn't see a picture, but they must use 2 twine each time
to hold the plant. It said they grew much better that when
individually staked.

This is how I do it:
http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/View...766&p=60247499
http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/View...766&p=60247632

I plant peas on the outside, the tomatoes on the inside. The tomatoes reach the
trellis just about the time the peas are done. The stakes are buried a good two
feet, and the whole thing has lasted 5 years so far.

--

Julie

Loki wrote:

I'd like to try staking this year. Just don't know what method to use.

I read one just a week ago. They put stakes in at each end (10feet)
and planted the tomatoes in between. then as they grew they wove
twine from one stake to the other, and adding twine as the toms grew
taller. I didn't see a picture, but they must use 2 twine each time
to hold the plant. It said they grew much better that when
individually staked.

This is how I do it:
http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/View...766&p=60247499
http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/View...766&p=60247632

I plant peas on the outside, the tomatoes on the inside. The tomatoes reach the
trellis just about the time the peas are done. The stakes are buried a good two
feet, and the whole thing has lasted 5 years so far.

--

Julie

Loki wrote:

I'd like to try staking this year. Just don't know what method to use.

I read one just a week ago. They put stakes in at each end (10feet)
and planted the tomatoes in between. then as they grew they wove
twine from one stake to the other, and adding twine as the toms grew
taller. I didn't see a picture, but they must use 2 twine each time
to hold the plant. It said they grew much better that when
individually staked.

This is how I do it:
http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/View...766&p=60247499
http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/View...766&p=60247632

I plant peas on the outside, the tomatoes on the inside. The tomatoes reach the
trellis just about the time the peas are done. The stakes are buried a good two
feet, and the whole thing has lasted 5 years so far.

--

Julie

On Mon, 15 Mar 2004 23:11:24 GMT, "FDR"
wrote:


"Frogleg" wrote in message
.. .
On Mon, 15 Mar 2004 18:53:10 GMT, "FDR"
wrote:

Frogleg wrote:

On Mon, 15 Mar 2004 01:57:16 GMT, "FDR" wrote

Looking through the Garden Tools by Lee Valley catalog, I came across
a
tomato staking method using spirals. Basically, it's a 6 foot long
piece of
metal that you push into the ground and it is spiraled all the way
up.

I like those cages from Gardener's supply too, but I can't see myself
paying
so much for them. If they were cheaper I'd definitely get them.

Go somewhere like Home Depot and get a roll of 6" mesh concrete
reinforcing wire. Ask about what kind of tool you need to cut the
wire.

Here's a rough illustration and directions:


http://www.extension.umn.edu/project...37trellis.html

This page suggests tying the cage to a stake, but if you snip off the
bottom wire, you'll have a 6" multi-spike perimeter to put into the
ground. These are sturdy, last for years and years, and do a good job
of supporting the tomatoes.

Though they are certainly sturdy, I don't think they'd be for me since my
wife wouldn't appreciate the aesthetics or lack of easy storage capability.

My dad used to just plant tomatoes in a row, and then make a tomato
support system that looked like rail fences. He'd have uprights to
pound into the ground, and use whatever scrap lumber he had around to
make rails 2 or 3 of them several inches apart so you can reach
between them to pick the fruit.

If you are into aesthetics of unpainted scrap wood, paint it, you'll
never know it's scrap. If you can't find scrap or don't want to, then
buy wood, paint it white just like those white rail fences they show
around the fields in Kentucky where they raise horses. Or buy some of
that plastic stuff that can be drilled like wood, already the color
you want it.

They're easy to make anyone can lay pieces of wood across upright
stakes, and pound a few nails or put a few screws through it into the
uprights. you can put stabilizers across the gap between the rails on
either side of the tomato plants, You can nail or screw them in, or
notch toward the ends so they can just slip over the tops of the rails
on either side and use one between every .. or every other tomato
plant to keep the rails stable. Cross pieces should be used at least
at each end. The longer the row the greater the need for stabilizers.
I'd just make them in convenient lengths, 8' 10' whatever length
lumber you have or want to use. All depends on how many plants you
plant. I used to end up with around 40 plants each year.

They're easy to store in that they are flat so each side can be laid
one against the other and lean them against a shed wall, or inside the
shed if you have a big one, or along side the wall of a garage or
suspended overhead.

You can alter things to suit your needs. ;-)

Janice

On Mon, 15 Mar 2004 23:11:24 GMT, "FDR"
wrote:


"Frogleg" wrote in message
.. .
On Mon, 15 Mar 2004 18:53:10 GMT, "FDR"
wrote:

Frogleg wrote:

On Mon, 15 Mar 2004 01:57:16 GMT, "FDR" wrote

Looking through the Garden Tools by Lee Valley catalog, I came across
a
tomato staking method using spirals. Basically, it's a 6 foot long
piece of
metal that you push into the ground and it is spiraled all the way
up.

I like those cages from Gardener's supply too, but I can't see myself
paying
so much for them. If they were cheaper I'd definitely get them.

Go somewhere like Home Depot and get a roll of 6" mesh concrete
reinforcing wire. Ask about what kind of tool you need to cut the
wire.

Here's a rough illustration and directions:


http://www.extension.umn.edu/project...37trellis.html

This page suggests tying the cage to a stake, but if you snip off the
bottom wire, you'll have a 6" multi-spike perimeter to put into the
ground. These are sturdy, last for years and years, and do a good job
of supporting the tomatoes.

Though they are certainly sturdy, I don't think they'd be for me since my
wife wouldn't appreciate the aesthetics or lack of easy storage capability.

My dad used to just plant tomatoes in a row, and then make a tomato
support system that looked like rail fences. He'd have uprights to
pound into the ground, and use whatever scrap lumber he had around to
make rails 2 or 3 of them several inches apart so you can reach
between them to pick the fruit.

If you are into aesthetics of unpainted scrap wood, paint it, you'll
never know it's scrap. If you can't find scrap or don't want to, then
buy wood, paint it white just like those white rail fences they show
around the fields in Kentucky where they raise horses. Or buy some of
that plastic stuff that can be drilled like wood, already the color
you want it.

They're easy to make anyone can lay pieces of wood across upright
stakes, and pound a few nails or put a few screws through it into the
uprights. you can put stabilizers across the gap between the rails on
either side of the tomato plants, You can nail or screw them in, or
notch toward the ends so they can just slip over the tops of the rails
on either side and use one between every .. or every other tomato
plant to keep the rails stable. Cross pieces should be used at least
at each end. The longer the row the greater the need for stabilizers.
I'd just make them in convenient lengths, 8' 10' whatever length
lumber you have or want to use. All depends on how many plants you
plant. I used to end up with around 40 plants each year.

They're easy to store in that they are flat so each side can be laid
one against the other and lean them against a shed wall, or inside the
shed if you have a big one, or along side the wall of a garage or
suspended overhead.

You can alter things to suit your needs. ;-)

Janice

On Mon, 15 Mar 2004 23:11:24 GMT, "FDR"
wrote:


"Frogleg" wrote in message
.. .
On Mon, 15 Mar 2004 18:53:10 GMT, "FDR"
wrote:

Frogleg wrote:

On Mon, 15 Mar 2004 01:57:16 GMT, "FDR" wrote

Looking through the Garden Tools by Lee Valley catalog, I came across
a
tomato staking method using spirals. Basically, it's a 6 foot long
piece of
metal that you push into the ground and it is spiraled all the way
up.

I like those cages from Gardener's supply too, but I can't see myself
paying
so much for them. If they were cheaper I'd definitely get them.

Go somewhere like Home Depot and get a roll of 6" mesh concrete
reinforcing wire. Ask about what kind of tool you need to cut the
wire.

Here's a rough illustration and directions:


http://www.extension.umn.edu/project...37trellis.html

This page suggests tying the cage to a stake, but if you snip off the
bottom wire, you'll have a 6" multi-spike perimeter to put into the
ground. These are sturdy, last for years and years, and do a good job
of supporting the tomatoes.

Though they are certainly sturdy, I don't think they'd be for me since my
wife wouldn't appreciate the aesthetics or lack of easy storage capability.

My dad used to just plant tomatoes in a row, and then make a tomato
support system that looked like rail fences. He'd have uprights to
pound into the ground, and use whatever scrap lumber he had around to
make rails 2 or 3 of them several inches apart so you can reach
between them to pick the fruit.

If you are into aesthetics of unpainted scrap wood, paint it, you'll
never know it's scrap. If you can't find scrap or don't want to, then
buy wood, paint it white just like those white rail fences they show
around the fields in Kentucky where they raise horses. Or buy some of
that plastic stuff that can be drilled like wood, already the color
you want it.

They're easy to make anyone can lay pieces of wood across upright
stakes, and pound a few nails or put a few screws through it into the
uprights. you can put stabilizers across the gap between the rails on
either side of the tomato plants, You can nail or screw them in, or
notch toward the ends so they can just slip over the tops of the rails
on either side and use one between every .. or every other tomato
plant to keep the rails stable. Cross pieces should be used at least
at each end. The longer the row the greater the need for stabilizers.
I'd just make them in convenient lengths, 8' 10' whatever length
lumber you have or want to use. All depends on how many plants you
plant. I used to end up with around 40 plants each year.

They're easy to store in that they are flat so each side can be laid
one against the other and lean them against a shed wall, or inside the
shed if you have a big one, or along side the wall of a garage or
suspended overhead.

You can alter things to suit your needs. ;-)

Janice

On Mon, 15 Mar 2004 23:11:24 GMT, "FDR"
wrote:


"Frogleg" wrote in message
.. .
On Mon, 15 Mar 2004 18:53:10 GMT, "FDR"
wrote:

Frogleg wrote:

On Mon, 15 Mar 2004 01:57:16 GMT, "FDR" wrote

Looking through the Garden Tools by Lee Valley catalog, I came across
a
tomato staking method using spirals. Basically, it's a 6 foot long
piece of
metal that you push into the ground and it is spiraled all the way
up.

I like those cages from Gardener's supply too, but I can't see myself
paying
so much for them. If they were cheaper I'd definitely get them.

Go somewhere like Home Depot and get a roll of 6" mesh concrete
reinforcing wire. Ask about what kind of tool you need to cut the
wire.

Here's a rough illustration and directions:


http://www.extension.umn.edu/project...37trellis.html

This page suggests tying the cage to a stake, but if you snip off the
bottom wire, you'll have a 6" multi-spike perimeter to put into the
ground. These are sturdy, last for years and years, and do a good job
of supporting the tomatoes.

Though they are certainly sturdy, I don't think they'd be for me since my
wife wouldn't appreciate the aesthetics or lack of easy storage capability.

My dad used to just plant tomatoes in a row, and then make a tomato
support system that looked like rail fences. He'd have uprights to
pound into the ground, and use whatever scrap lumber he had around to
make rails 2 or 3 of them several inches apart so you can reach
between them to pick the fruit.

If you are into aesthetics of unpainted scrap wood, paint it, you'll
never know it's scrap. If you can't find scrap or don't want to, then
buy wood, paint it white just like those white rail fences they show
around the fields in Kentucky where they raise horses. Or buy some of
that plastic stuff that can be drilled like wood, already the color
you want it.

They're easy to make anyone can lay pieces of wood across upright
stakes, and pound a few nails or put a few screws through it into the
uprights. you can put stabilizers across the gap between the rails on
either side of the tomato plants, You can nail or screw them in, or
notch toward the ends so they can just slip over the tops of the rails
on either side and use one between every .. or every other tomato
plant to keep the rails stable. Cross pieces should be used at least
at each end. The longer the row the greater the need for stabilizers.
I'd just make them in convenient lengths, 8' 10' whatever length
lumber you have or want to use. All depends on how many plants you
plant. I used to end up with around 40 plants each year.

They're easy to store in that they are flat so each side can be laid
one against the other and lean them against a shed wall, or inside the
shed if you have a big one, or along side the wall of a garage or
suspended overhead.

You can alter things to suit your needs. ;-)

Janice

"DigitalVinyl" wrote in message
news
Frogleg wrote:

On Mon, 15 Mar 2004 01:57:16 GMT, "FDR"
wrote:

Looking through the Garden Tools by Lee Valley catalog, I came across a
tomato staking method using spirals. Basically, it's a 6 foot long
piece of
metal that you push into the ground and it is spiraled all the way up.
The
tomato plant grows into the spiral and gives natural support.

Does anyone know what a full-grown tomato plant with fruit weighs?
I think its gonna vary. MY bush last year was about 6' high and two
foot around. I'd say the most tomatoes it had on it at once was about
10-12 lbs plus the weight of the plant itself, which i'd be wild-ass
guessing is ?10,15,20? pounds. WHen I pulled them at end of season I
thought they were heavier than expected. My vine, which actually
ended up growing as two vines on two stakes, was probably less than
that.

I used the stackable tomato cages from Gardener's Supply. They are
unfortunately expensive(like most of their catalog) but it made caging
a 6' bush effortless. My neighbor liked how easy it was to harvest and
they didn't keep sliding and collapsing down a stake when heavy with
fruit. Neither of us do staking well. Plants always slide down and
create tight bends.
I am considering buying another four this year despite overpriced
costs.



What's your take on those tomato "ladders" that Gardener's Supply sells?

"DigitalVinyl" wrote in message
news
Frogleg wrote:

On Mon, 15 Mar 2004 01:57:16 GMT, "FDR"
wrote:

Looking through the Garden Tools by Lee Valley catalog, I came across a
tomato staking method using spirals. Basically, it's a 6 foot long
piece of
metal that you push into the ground and it is spiraled all the way up.
The
tomato plant grows into the spiral and gives natural support.

Does anyone know what a full-grown tomato plant with fruit weighs?
I think its gonna vary. MY bush last year was about 6' high and two
foot around. I'd say the most tomatoes it had on it at once was about
10-12 lbs plus the weight of the plant itself, which i'd be wild-ass
guessing is ?10,15,20? pounds. WHen I pulled them at end of season I
thought they were heavier than expected. My vine, which actually
ended up growing as two vines on two stakes, was probably less than
that.

I used the stackable tomato cages from Gardener's Supply. They are
unfortunately expensive(like most of their catalog) but it made caging
a 6' bush effortless. My neighbor liked how easy it was to harvest and
they didn't keep sliding and collapsing down a stake when heavy with
fruit. Neither of us do staking well. Plants always slide down and
create tight bends.
I am considering buying another four this year despite overpriced
costs.



What's your take on those tomato "ladders" that Gardener's Supply sells?

"DigitalVinyl" wrote in message
news
Frogleg wrote:

On Mon, 15 Mar 2004 01:57:16 GMT, "FDR"
wrote:

Looking through the Garden Tools by Lee Valley catalog, I came across a
tomato staking method using spirals. Basically, it's a 6 foot long
piece of
metal that you push into the ground and it is spiraled all the way up.
The
tomato plant grows into the spiral and gives natural support.

Does anyone know what a full-grown tomato plant with fruit weighs?
I think its gonna vary. MY bush last year was about 6' high and two
foot around. I'd say the most tomatoes it had on it at once was about
10-12 lbs plus the weight of the plant itself, which i'd be wild-ass
guessing is ?10,15,20? pounds. WHen I pulled them at end of season I
thought they were heavier than expected. My vine, which actually
ended up growing as two vines on two stakes, was probably less than
that.

I used the stackable tomato cages from Gardener's Supply. They are
unfortunately expensive(like most of their catalog) but it made caging
a 6' bush effortless. My neighbor liked how easy it was to harvest and
they didn't keep sliding and collapsing down a stake when heavy with
fruit. Neither of us do staking well. Plants always slide down and
create tight bends.
I am considering buying another four this year despite overpriced
costs.



What's your take on those tomato "ladders" that Gardener's Supply sells?

"FDR" wrote:


"DigitalVinyl" wrote in message
news
Frogleg wrote:

On Mon, 15 Mar 2004 01:57:16 GMT, "FDR"
wrote:

Looking through the Garden Tools by Lee Valley catalog, I came across a
tomato staking method using spirals. Basically, it's a 6 foot long
piece of
metal that you push into the ground and it is spiraled all the way up.
The
tomato plant grows into the spiral and gives natural support.

Does anyone know what a full-grown tomato plant with fruit weighs?
I think its gonna vary. MY bush last year was about 6' high and two
foot around. I'd say the most tomatoes it had on it at once was about
10-12 lbs plus the weight of the plant itself, which i'd be wild-ass
guessing is ?10,15,20? pounds. WHen I pulled them at end of season I
thought they were heavier than expected. My vine, which actually
ended up growing as two vines on two stakes, was probably less than
that.

I used the stackable tomato cages from Gardener's Supply. They are
unfortunately expensive(like most of their catalog) but it made caging
a 6' bush effortless. My neighbor liked how easy it was to harvest and
they didn't keep sliding and collapsing down a stake when heavy with
fruit. Neither of us do staking well. Plants always slide down and
create tight bends.
I am considering buying another four this year despite overpriced
costs.



What's your take on those tomato "ladders" that Gardener's Supply sells?
I haven't bought one.
They seem expensive, but since they are each 58" tall they can support
five plants. The tomato cages are about 30" each, so you could only
support 2 tall bushes for $30. So they are similar in price.

They look like they would prevnet the sliding and bending we
experienced.

For me, my indeterminate ending up growing three vines(i did a POOR
job pruning). Two of 'em I staked the third grew into the nearby
tomato cage. At this point I'm thinking of just treating all of them
like determinates and letting them bush.


DiGiTAL ViNYL (no email)
Zone 6b/7, Westchester Co, NY, 1 mile off L.I.Sound
2nd year gardener