I'm in zone 6b. I have raised garden beds and a small greenhouse that
is not heated for the winter for this year. I tried electric heating
but couldn't bear watching the meter go around. Anyway, how soon can I
start plants for 2005 garden? Do I start them indoors first, move to
greenhouse, then garden or can I start them right in the greenhouse? TIA

On Wed, 29 Dec 2004 17:36:07 -0500, Serendipity
wrote:

I'm in zone 6b. I have raised garden beds and a small greenhouse that
is not heated for the winter for this year. I tried electric heating
but couldn't bear watching the meter go around. Anyway, how soon can I
start plants for 2005 garden? Do I start them indoors first, move to
greenhouse, then garden or can I start them right in the greenhouse? TIA

1. What's your average last frost date? The rule of thumb is to
start seeds 6 weeks before the last frost date so that they're
ready to set out. You might be able to start the seeds in the
house 8 to 12 weeks before and have them hardening off in
the green house for the final few weeks. Some of that will depend
on what seeds you're planting.


2. What are you planting? So plants tolerate cool weather better
than others. Peppers aren't happy if it gets below 50 degrees at
night, and some tomatoes don't like it. There are some tomatoes
that tolerate cool temperatures well, though. Usually the variety
description indicates whether or not it tolerates cool
temperatures.

Most greens and some herbs, like dill or cilantro, tolerate cool
temperatures well, too.

I'll start some Stupice tomatoes in about mid-January inside the
house. I'll pot them in gallon containers and move them to the
cold frame around the first of March. I'll watch the weather
forecasts for the next couple of weeks while they harden off,
and decide if they go into the garden right away or wait
until our official last frost date of the first week of April.
One or two cold nights can be handled with Wall O' Water
containers or by just wrapping the plants in a blanket.

Peppers don't get started until mid-February, the ground needs
a chance to warm up before they get set out. Most of the tomatoes
will be started then or a week or so before. The dill and
cilantro will be started with the first wave of tomatoes, squash
and cucumbers a couple of weeks later.

I hope I haven't confused you, but one planting date for all the
vegetables just doesn't work for me.


Penelope



--
"Maybe you'd like to ask the Wizard for a heart."
"ElissaAnn"

On Wed, 29 Dec 2004 17:36:07 -0500, Serendipity
wrote:

I'm in zone 6b. I have raised garden beds and a small greenhouse that
is not heated for the winter for this year. I tried electric heating
but couldn't bear watching the meter go around. Anyway, how soon can I
start plants for 2005 garden? Do I start them indoors first, move to
greenhouse, then garden or can I start them right in the greenhouse? TIA

1. What's your average last frost date? The rule of thumb is to
start seeds 6 weeks before the last frost date so that they're
ready to set out. You might be able to start the seeds in the
house 8 to 12 weeks before and have them hardening off in
the green house for the final few weeks. Some of that will depend
on what seeds you're planting.


2. What are you planting? So plants tolerate cool weather better
than others. Peppers aren't happy if it gets below 50 degrees at
night, and some tomatoes don't like it. There are some tomatoes
that tolerate cool temperatures well, though. Usually the variety
description indicates whether or not it tolerates cool
temperatures.

Most greens and some herbs, like dill or cilantro, tolerate cool
temperatures well, too.

I'll start some Stupice tomatoes in about mid-January inside the
house. I'll pot them in gallon containers and move them to the
cold frame around the first of March. I'll watch the weather
forecasts for the next couple of weeks while they harden off,
and decide if they go into the garden right away or wait
until our official last frost date of the first week of April.
One or two cold nights can be handled with Wall O' Water
containers or by just wrapping the plants in a blanket.

Peppers don't get started until mid-February, the ground needs
a chance to warm up before they get set out. Most of the tomatoes
will be started then or a week or so before. The dill and
cilantro will be started with the first wave of tomatoes, squash
and cucumbers a couple of weeks later.

I hope I haven't confused you, but one planting date for all the
vegetables just doesn't work for me.


Penelope



--
"Maybe you'd like to ask the Wizard for a heart."
"ElissaAnn"

"Penelope Periwinkle" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 29 Dec 2004 17:36:07 -0500, Serendipity
wrote:

I'm in zone 6b. I have raised garden beds and a small greenhouse that
is not heated for the winter for this year. I tried electric heating
but couldn't bear watching the meter go around. Anyway, how soon can I
start plants for 2005 garden? Do I start them indoors first, move to
greenhouse, then garden or can I start them right in the greenhouse? TIA

1. What's your average last frost date? The rule of thumb is to
start seeds 6 weeks before the last frost date so that they're
ready to set out. You might be able to start the seeds in the
house 8 to 12 weeks before and have them hardening off in
the green house for the final few weeks. Some of that will depend
on what seeds you're planting.


2. What are you planting? So plants tolerate cool weather better
than others. Peppers aren't happy if it gets below 50 degrees at
night, and some tomatoes don't like it. There are some tomatoes
that tolerate cool temperatures well, though. Usually the variety
description indicates whether or not it tolerates cool
temperatures.

Most greens and some herbs, like dill or cilantro, tolerate cool
temperatures well, too.

I'll start some Stupice tomatoes in about mid-January inside the
house. I'll pot them in gallon containers and move them to the
cold frame around the first of March. I'll watch the weather
forecasts for the next couple of weeks while they harden off,
and decide if they go into the garden right away or wait
until our official last frost date of the first week of April.
One or two cold nights can be handled with Wall O' Water
containers or by just wrapping the plants in a blanket.

Peppers don't get started until mid-February, the ground needs
a chance to warm up before they get set out. Most of the tomatoes
will be started then or a week or so before. The dill and
cilantro will be started with the first wave of tomatoes, squash
and cucumbers a couple of weeks later.

I hope I haven't confused you, but one planting date for all the
vegetables just doesn't work for me.


Penelope



--
"Maybe you'd like to ask the Wizard for a heart."
"ElissaAnn"

What does "harden off" mean? And how do you accomplish this, "hardening
off"?

Serendipity wrote:

I'm in zone 6b. I have raised garden beds and a small greenhouse that
is not heated for the winter for this year. I tried electric heating
but couldn't bear watching the meter go around. Anyway, how soon can I
start plants for 2005 garden? Do I start them indoors first, move to
greenhouse, then garden or can I start them right in the greenhouse? TIA

Lots of info he
http://www.ext.nodak.edu/extpubs/pla...cap/h1139w.htm

Ross.

Serendipity wrote:

I'm in zone 6b. I have raised garden beds and a small greenhouse that
is not heated for the winter for this year. I tried electric heating
but couldn't bear watching the meter go around. Anyway, how soon can I
start plants for 2005 garden? Do I start them indoors first, move to
greenhouse, then garden or can I start them right in the greenhouse? TIA

Lots of info he
http://www.ext.nodak.edu/extpubs/pla...cap/h1139w.htm

Ross.

On Thu, 30 Dec 2004 15:49:13 GMT, "Brigitte"
wrote:


What does "harden off" mean? And how do you accomplish this, "hardening
off"?

Hardening off is simply allowing the plants to acclimate to the
change in growing conditions between where they were started
and where they'll be grown.

In my case, seeds are started under artificial lights on seed
warming pads. When I move them outside, they need at least
a few days to get used to the more intense natural sunlight
and to the fluctuating temperature. If I were to put them
straight into the garden from the house, the leaves would most
likely be sun burnt, the plants would most likely get shocky, and
some would die. A gradual transition makes for happier, healthier
plants.

Here's a site that might help, too:

http://www.ehow.com/how_12176_harden-seedlings.html


Penelope

--
"Maybe you'd like to ask the Wizard for a heart."
"ElissaAnn"

On Thu, 30 Dec 2004 15:49:13 GMT, "Brigitte"
wrote:


What does "harden off" mean? And how do you accomplish this, "hardening
off"?

Hardening off is simply allowing the plants to acclimate to the
change in growing conditions between where they were started
and where they'll be grown.

In my case, seeds are started under artificial lights on seed
warming pads. When I move them outside, they need at least
a few days to get used to the more intense natural sunlight
and to the fluctuating temperature. If I were to put them
straight into the garden from the house, the leaves would most
likely be sun burnt, the plants would most likely get shocky, and
some would die. A gradual transition makes for happier, healthier
plants.

Here's a site that might help, too:

http://www.ehow.com/how_12176_harden-seedlings.html


Penelope

--
"Maybe you'd like to ask the Wizard for a heart."
"ElissaAnn"