I am trying to plant cherry tomatoes for the first time. I bought littke 8"
plants and now have to do something with them. What do I need to do?

I like to put one of these little plants in a 5 gallon bucket and grow
it on a sunny patio.

Drill several drainage holes in the bottom of the bucket, fill it with
good soil to about 2" from the top, and put up a wire cage to support
the vines.

The utility of the bucket comes when you take the opportunity to move
it around so your tomatoes get full sunlight all day.

On Mon, 16 May 2005, Ottawa wrote:

I am trying to plant cherry tomatoes for the first time. I bought littke 8"
plants and now have to do something with them. What do I need to do?



This starts to cut into my thus far un answered tomatillo questions....

I would expect that as a near relative of the tomatillo, factors such
as temperature, soil pH and texture, fertilizer (type, amount and timing)
are amongst the concerns.

Too little fertilizer ives poor growth, too much gives excessive
foliage rather than fruit. I am guessing Ca2+ and phosphate are just
as critical as nitrogen, and pH should be close to 7.0.

Dominic

Dominic-Luc Webb wrote:

On Mon, 16 May 2005, Ottawa wrote:

I am trying to plant cherry tomatoes for the first time. I bought littke 8"
plants and now have to do something with them. What do I need to do?



This starts to cut into my thus far un answered tomatillo questions....

I would expect that as a near relative of the tomatillo, factors such
as temperature, soil pH and texture, fertilizer (type, amount and timing)
are amongst the concerns.

Too little fertilizer ives poor growth, too much gives excessive
foliage rather than fruit. I am guessing Ca2+ and phosphate are just
as critical as nitrogen, and pH should be close to 7.0.

Dominic, I'm more careful and avoid too much nitrogen fertilizers. I
operate on the assumption that most answers are incomplete, so I used
mutliple sources of fertilizer. but I was always careful about
nitrogen. Which bit me in the behind with corn since it is a grass and
a heavy nitrogen feeder. I stress phosphorous most and then potassium
over nitrogen and so far I'm having good luck.

I do fertilize fairly heavily. I dug down 18" in the garden, sifted
out the rocks, and added a mix of different fertilizers (bloodmeal,
bone meal, greensand, superphosphate, alumininum...something, plus
humus, composted manure). This was mixed throughout the 18" root zone.
I've had fantastic results with everything I plant in those areas I've
worked that deep. Last year's Big Beef plant rose bushed out and
climbed 10' up. So I kinda feel nitrogen is the really worrisome one.

Tomatoes do suffer from blossom end rot and inability to absorb
calcium is a definite contributor. SO calcium is more important on
tomatoes that to some others. I add eggshells to my tomatoes beds when
I turn them and add some when transplanting. Over time I hope this
will compensate for the extra calcium drawn by the tomatoes.

There is a webpage out there that shows tomatoes plants with all
different micronutrient deficiencies. Basically you can see the plant
gets sickly or dying without manganese, magnesium, iron, sodium, etc.
So a nutrient shortage on anything can lead to a sick plant. I think a
mistake made with fertilizer is the focus on the big three and not
worrying about the many other things the ground might lack.

DiGiTAL ViNYL (no email)
Zone 6b/7, Westchester Co, NY, 1 mile off L.I.Sound
3rd year gardener
http://photos.yahoo.com/ph/royalfrazier/

On Tue, 17 May 2005, DigitalVinyl wrote:

Dominic, I'm more careful and avoid too much nitrogen fertilizers. I
operate on the assumption that most answers are incomplete, so I used
mutliple sources of fertilizer. but I was always careful about
nitrogen. Which bit me in the behind with corn since it is a grass and
a heavy nitrogen feeder. I stress phosphorous most and then potassium
over nitrogen and so far I'm having good luck.

Thanks for your overall remarks. You have clearly pondered these
thoughts in some detail. The general nutrient depletion, especially
the Ca2+ and phosphate, makes me wonder what the final pH of the
final admix for your hybrid soil?

I note that pH can potently influence Ca2+ and phosphate availabilty.
Also, I have been more inclined to having rocks present, maybe as
a source of nutrients or at least a mechanical interface roots can
draw water and dissolved nutrients from better than the mainly
clay soil I presently have. I have questions about which kinds of
rocks, but it sounds like limestone is a good choice, and I happen
to have access to this.

With regard to nitrogen, what do you think about interspersing
nitrogen fixers (beans, peas, etc) in some arrangement together
with tomatoes or tomatillos (or any other vegetable for that
matter)? It seems nitrogen content of soil would increase as the
growing season progresses, which might be favorable for tomatoes.


Dominic-Luc Webb

Dominic-Luc Webb wrote:


On Tue, 17 May 2005, DigitalVinyl wrote:

Dominic, I'm more careful and avoid too much nitrogen fertilizers. I
operate on the assumption that most answers are incomplete, so I used
mutliple sources of fertilizer. but I was always careful about
nitrogen. Which bit me in the behind with corn since it is a grass and
a heavy nitrogen feeder. I stress phosphorous most and then potassium
over nitrogen and so far I'm having good luck.

Thanks for your overall remarks. You have clearly pondered these
thoughts in some detail. The general nutrient depletion, especially
the Ca2+ and phosphate, makes me wonder what the final pH of the
final admix for your hybrid soil?

I've never tested my soil, but I've had good results --minus a few
common disease and bug problems. I should get the ground tested--i do
work NEXT DOOOR to the Cornell Cooperative Extension for my county.

I note that pH can potently influence Ca2+ and phosphate availabilty.
Also, I have been more inclined to having rocks present, maybe as
a source of nutrients or at least a mechanical interface roots can
draw water and dissolved nutrients from better than the mainly
clay soil I presently have. I have questions about which kinds of
rocks, but it sounds like limestone is a good choice, and I happen
to have access to this.

pH can interfere with all fucntions of the plant if it swings far
enough either way. Clay is a problem. I had to go about 12-15 inches
before encountering clay, so I'm lucky. Sounds like you need to
establish some large composting bins for the future. Amending the soil
with organic humus seems to be one of the cheapest and best ways to
condition your soil. Of course for large areas the challenge becomes
the volume.

I have very limited areas to grow in --although I'm expanding every
year. So each sq ft had to be the best possible, in my mind, for the
best crops. about half of my square footage has had all rocks and
debris removed and is 100% available for rooting for 12-18". The rest
has been turned and mixed for about 6-8 inches--with plenty of rocks
and crap(formerly a weedy lawn).

With regard to nitrogen, what do you think about interspersing
nitrogen fixers (beans, peas, etc) in some arrangement together
with tomatoes or tomatillos (or any other vegetable for that
matter)? It seems nitrogen content of soil would increase as the
growing season progresses, which might be favorable for tomatoes.

I don't know of a specific need for greater nitrogen in tomatoes more
than others, so I don't know if there is a benefit beyond having
another contributor to the soil. Of course if you are concerned about
the lack of nutrients, then the peas/beans are a little more
insurance. Also they don't always fix nitrogen if an innoculant hasn't
been used on them--or so I recall. I planted my peas where I will
later fill in with corn transplants(heavy nitrogen feeder). Last year
I had beans in an area I'm now growing lettuce and spinach. I'm hoping
the leafy greens, which I expect need more nitrogen will feel some
benefit.

Dominic-Luc Webb

DiGiTAL ViNYL (no email)
Zone 6b/7, Westchester Co, NY, 1 mile off L.I.Sound
3rd year gardener
http://photos.yahoo.com/ph/royalfrazier/