I'm having problems with my tomatoes, , , ,

4-5 weeks ago, I planted wally world tomatoes in 1/2 wine barrels. The
plants are very large now, but NO FRUIT! they had lots of blossoms,
but since they are going away, I still have no tomatoes.

Wots up wit dat?

The temps have been in the 90's and low 100's, not too hot for the
California High Desert. The plants look great, but no tomatoes!

Ron C.
=============================

Has it been above 75 at night? Have you tried hand pollinating?

John!




Dr wrote:
I'm having problems with my tomatoes, , , ,

4-5 weeks ago, I planted wally world tomatoes in 1/2 wine barrels. The
plants are very large now, but NO FRUIT! they had lots of blossoms,
but since they are going away, I still have no tomatoes.

Wots up wit dat?

The temps have been in the 90's and low 100's, not too hot for the
California High Desert. The plants look great, but no tomatoes!

Ron C.
=============================

Yes, it is above 75 degrees at night.
I don't know what you mean by "Hand pollinating"

Ron C.
========================

On Sat, 28 May 2005 13:07:31 -0400, GA Pinhead
wrote:

Has it been above 75 at night? Have you tried hand pollinating?

John!




Dr wrote:
I'm having problems with my tomatoes, , , ,

4-5 weeks ago, I planted wally world tomatoes in 1/2 wine barrels. The
plants are very large now, but NO FRUIT! they had lots of blossoms,
but since they are going away, I still have no tomatoes.

Wots up wit dat?

The temps have been in the 90's and low 100's, not too hot for the
California High Desert. The plants look great, but no tomatoes!

Ron C.
=============================

Dr wrote:


Yes, it is above 75 degrees at night.

Tomatoes don't like that... fertilization is poor above that.

I don't know what you mean by "Hand pollinating"


A small paintbrush, like model painting, works well, act like a bee!

John!

Ron C.
========================

On Sat, 28 May 2005 13:07:31 -0400, GA Pinhead
wrote:


Has it been above 75 at night? Have you tried hand pollinating?

John!




Dr wrote:

I'm having problems with my tomatoes, , , ,

4-5 weeks ago, I planted wally world tomatoes in 1/2 wine barrels. The
plants are very large now, but NO FRUIT! they had lots of blossoms,
but since they are going away, I still have no tomatoes.

Wots up wit dat?

The temps have been in the 90's and low 100's, not too hot for the
California High Desert. The plants look great, but no tomatoes!

Ron C.
=============================

In article ,
"Dr " wrote:

Yes, it is above 75 degrees at night.
I don't know what you mean by "Hand pollinating"

Ron C.

When you see fresh blossoms, flick them gently with your finger...
I do it all the time now and it really does increase "sets".
--
K.

Sprout the MungBean to reply

"I don't like to commit myself about heaven and hell--you
see, I have friends in both places." --Mark Twain

"Katra" wrote:
When you see fresh blossoms, flick them gently with your finger...

I'll second that. All you need to do is just lightly tap the chutes with
your fingertip, or a light flick like your flicking whatever you flick.

--
Jim Carlock
Please post replies to newsgroup.

On Sat, 28 May 2005 09:34:50 -0700, "Dr "
wrote:

I'm having problems with my tomatoes, , , ,

4-5 weeks ago, I planted wally world tomatoes in 1/2 wine barrels. The
plants are very large now, but NO FRUIT! they had lots of blossoms,
but since they are going away, I still have no tomatoes.

Wots up wit dat?

The temps have been in the 90's and low 100's, not too hot for the
California High Desert. The plants look great, but no tomatoes!

Thanks for asking this question. I just subscribed to this group
because I'm having the same problem. Had it last year, too. I live
in the San Joaquin Valley with temps in 80's and 90's. We do get cool
at night, unlike you.
Sue


Ron C.
=============================

On Sat, 28 May 2005 13:07:31 -0400, GA Pinhead
wrote:

Has it been above 75 at night? Have you tried hand pollinating?

We have lots of wind here. Wouldn't that tkae care of the
pollinating?
Sue

John!




Dr wrote:
I'm having problems with my tomatoes, , , ,

4-5 weeks ago, I planted wally world tomatoes in 1/2 wine barrels. The
plants are very large now, but NO FRUIT! they had lots of blossoms,
but since they are going away, I still have no tomatoes.

Wots up wit dat?

The temps have been in the 90's and low 100's, not too hot for the
California High Desert. The plants look great, but no tomatoes!

Ron C.
=============================

Might be blowing it too fast?

John!

Sue wrote:
On Sat, 28 May 2005 13:07:31 -0400, GA Pinhead
wrote:


Has it been above 75 at night? Have you tried hand pollinating?


We have lots of wind here. Wouldn't that tkae care of the
pollinating?
Sue

John!




Dr wrote:

I'm having problems with my tomatoes, , , ,

4-5 weeks ago, I planted wally world tomatoes in 1/2 wine barrels. The
plants are very large now, but NO FRUIT! they had lots of blossoms,
but since they are going away, I still have no tomatoes.

Wots up wit dat?

The temps have been in the 90's and low 100's, not too hot for the
California High Desert. The plants look great, but no tomatoes!

Ron C.
=============================

On Sun, 29 May 2005 13:07:59 -0400, GA Pinhead
wrote:

Might be blowing it too fast?

I don't think so. They're fairly well protected. Maybe too
protected. I just went out and tapped the blossoms a bit as someone
suggested. I may try the paintbrush thing.
Sue


John!

Sue wrote:
On Sat, 28 May 2005 13:07:31 -0400, GA Pinhead
wrote:


Has it been above 75 at night? Have you tried hand pollinating?


We have lots of wind here. Wouldn't that tkae care of the
pollinating?
Sue

John!




Dr wrote:

I'm having problems with my tomatoes, , , ,

4-5 weeks ago, I planted wally world tomatoes in 1/2 wine barrels. The
plants are very large now, but NO FRUIT! they had lots of blossoms,
but since they are going away, I still have no tomatoes.

Wots up wit dat?

The temps have been in the 90's and low 100's, not too hot for the
California High Desert. The plants look great, but no tomatoes!

Ron C.
=============================

On Sat, 28 May 2005 09:34:50 -0700, "Dr "
wrote:

I'm having problems with my tomatoes, , , ,

4-5 weeks ago, I planted wally world tomatoes in 1/2 wine barrels. The
plants are very large now, but NO FRUIT! they had lots of blossoms,
but since they are going away, I still have no tomatoes.

Wots up wit dat?

The temps have been in the 90's and low 100's, not too hot for the
California High Desert. The plants look great, but no tomatoes!


Google on Blossom Drop.


http://www.ipm.iastate.edu/ipm/hortn...97/tomdis.html

Blossom Drop
Plants fail to set fruit. Cause: Extremes in temperature and dry
conditions may result in poor pollination and cause the flowers
to drop from the plant without setting fruit. Blossom drop on
tomatoes occurs when night temperatures are below 55°F or above
75°F. Control: Water the plants deeply once a week during dry
weather. Fruit set should increase when temperatures moderate.
Hormone sprays, such as "Blossom Set", may prevent some blossom
drop due to low temperatures. However, the resulting fruit are
often misshapen. Hormone sprays do not prevent blossom drop due
to high temperatures.

http://www.agway.com/lawn_and_garden...tomatoes.shtml

Blossom Drop – Tomato plants often develop beautiful blossoms
that mysteriously fall off. This problem is often
temperature-related. Some varieties may drop their blossoms when
night temperatures fall below 55° while high day temperatures
above 90° and night temperatures above 75° may also cause blossom
drop. To prevent it, plant resistant varieties, keep the soil
evenly moist and avoid using high nitrogen fertilizers during the
early stages of plant growth. Also watch for signs of early
blight or bacterial spot that may cause blossom loss.


It sounds like your daytime temps may be too high. As the second
paragraph mentions, some varieties are more heat tolerant than
others. The problem with buying big box store tomatoes is that
they tend to stock "least common denominator" varieties, ie,
varieties that will do well under average conditions.

Around here, in South Carolina, it gets very, very hot in July
and August, and most tomatoes stop producing. If I can keep the
plants going until September, I usually see a second flush of
tomatoes, With a late frost, I can get a decent second crop.

Or, I *used* to see that. Since the War of the spit!Thrips
began, I'm lucky to see tomatoes at all. I have, however, removed
their reservoir, the place they gathered strength while waiting
for me to set out my purty lettle tomato plants. I have removed
all three of the mulberryless mulberry trees, and am diligently
destroying all signs of sproutlets from the roots. Maybe, maybe
this year, I'll have fall tomatoes.

Anyway, I would suggest looking into varieties that were bred to
produce in the heat.


Penelope


--
"Maybe you'd like to ask the Wizard for a heart."
"ElissaAnn"

I am trying Solar Set this year. We will see.

John!

www.georgiapinball.org


Penelope Periwinkle wrote:
On Sat, 28 May 2005 09:34:50 -0700, "Dr "
wrote:


I'm having problems with my tomatoes, , , ,

Anyway, I would suggest looking into varieties that were bred to
produce in the heat.


Penelope

Penelope Periwinkle wrote:

On Sat, 28 May 2005 09:34:50 -0700, "Dr "
wrote:

I'm having problems with my tomatoes, , , ,

4-5 weeks ago, I planted wally world tomatoes in 1/2 wine barrels. The
plants are very large now, but NO FRUIT! they had lots of blossoms,
but since they are going away, I still have no tomatoes.

Wots up wit dat?

The temps have been in the 90's and low 100's, not too hot for the
California High Desert. The plants look great, but no tomatoes!


Google on Blossom Drop.


http://www.ipm.iastate.edu/ipm/hortn...97/tomdis.html

Blossom Drop
Plants fail to set fruit. Cause: Extremes in temperature and dry
conditions may result in poor pollination and cause the flowers
to drop from the plant without setting fruit. Blossom drop on
tomatoes occurs when night temperatures are below 55°F or above
75°F. Control: Water the plants deeply once a week during dry
weather. Fruit set should increase when temperatures moderate.
Hormone sprays, such as "Blossom Set", may prevent some blossom
drop due to low temperatures. However, the resulting fruit are
often misshapen. Hormone sprays do not prevent blossom drop due
to high temperatures.

http://www.agway.com/lawn_and_garden...tomatoes.shtml

Blossom Drop – Tomato plants often develop beautiful blossoms
that mysteriously fall off. This problem is often
temperature-related. Some varieties may drop their blossoms when
night temperatures fall below 55° while high day temperatures
above 90° and night temperatures above 75° may also cause blossom
drop. To prevent it, plant resistant varieties, keep the soil
evenly moist and avoid using high nitrogen fertilizers during the
early stages of plant growth. Also watch for signs of early
blight or bacterial spot that may cause blossom loss.


It sounds like your daytime temps may be too high. As the second
paragraph mentions, some varieties are more heat tolerant than
others. The problem with buying big box store tomatoes is that
they tend to stock "least common denominator" varieties, ie,
varieties that will do well under average conditions.

Around here, in South Carolina, it gets very, very hot in July
and August, and most tomatoes stop producing. If I can keep the
plants going until September, I usually see a second flush of
tomatoes, With a late frost, I can get a decent second crop.

Or, I *used* to see that. Since the War of the spit!Thrips
began, I'm lucky to see tomatoes at all. I have, however, removed
their reservoir, the place they gathered strength while waiting
for me to set out my purty lettle tomato plants. I have removed
all three of the mulberryless mulberry trees, and am diligently
destroying all signs of sproutlets from the roots. Maybe, maybe
this year, I'll have fall tomatoes.

Anyway, I would suggest looking into varieties that were bred to
produce in the heat.


Penelope


Here is the URL for Burpee's Heatwave II.
http://www.burpee.com/shopping/produ...yword=heatwave

It is supposed to withstand heat up to 100° F.


--
Susan N.

"Moral indignation is in most cases two percent moral, 48 percent indignation, and 50 percent envy."
Vittorio De Sica, Italian movie director (1901-1974)

On Sun, 29 May 2005 22:56:05 -0400, GA Pinhead
wrote:

I am trying Solar Set this year. We will see.

Yeah, there are a lot of new tomatoes that are supposed to be more
heat resilient. An old variety that does well in heat is Arkansas
Traveler.

Penelope

On Sun, 29 May 2005 22:16:20 -0400, Penelope Periwinkle
wrote:

On Sat, 28 May 2005 09:34:50 -0700, "Dr "
wrote:

I'm having problems with my tomatoes, , , ,

4-5 weeks ago, I planted wally world tomatoes in 1/2 wine barrels. The
plants are very large now, but NO FRUIT! they had lots of blossoms,
but since they are going away, I still have no tomatoes.

Wots up wit dat?

The temps have been in the 90's and low 100's, not too hot for the
California High Desert. The plants look great, but no tomatoes!


Google on Blossom Drop.


http://www.ipm.iastate.edu/ipm/hortn...97/tomdis.html

Blossom Drop
Plants fail to set fruit. Cause: Extremes in temperature and dry
conditions may result in poor pollination and cause the flowers
to drop from the plant without setting fruit. Blossom drop on
tomatoes occurs when night temperatures are below 55°F or above
75°F. Control: Water the plants deeply once a week during dry
weather. Fruit set should increase when temperatures moderate.
Hormone sprays, such as "Blossom Set", may prevent some blossom
drop due to low temperatures. However, the resulting fruit are
often misshapen. Hormone sprays do not prevent blossom drop due
to high temperatures.

http://www.agway.com/lawn_and_garden...tomatoes.shtml

Blossom Drop – Tomato plants often develop beautiful blossoms
that mysteriously fall off. This problem is often
temperature-related. Some varieties may drop their blossoms when
night temperatures fall below 55° while high day temperatures
above 90° and night temperatures above 75° may also cause blossom
drop. To prevent it, plant resistant varieties, keep the soil
evenly moist and avoid using high nitrogen fertilizers during the
early stages of plant growth. Also watch for signs of early
blight or bacterial spot that may cause blossom loss.


It sounds like your daytime temps may be too high. As the second
paragraph mentions, some varieties are more heat tolerant than
others. The problem with buying big box store tomatoes is that
they tend to stock "least common denominator" varieties, ie,
varieties that will do well under average conditions.

Thanks for the info. I'm sure it must be the heat. It was 98 degrees
today. ( The only places we have near here to buy tomato plants
are Wal*Mart and K-Mart. I wasn't checking for any heat tolerant
varieties. Lots of farms around here grow commercial tomatoes so I
assume they select their varieties carefully.
Just in case, I was out yesterday with a small paint brush following
someone's advice. Several of the blossoms fell off with just a gentle
touch.


Around here, in South Carolina, it gets very, very hot in July
and August, and most tomatoes stop producing. If I can keep the
plants going until September, I usually see a second flush of
tomatoes, With a late frost, I can get a decent second crop.

Or, I *used* to see that. Since the War of the spit!Thrips
began, I'm lucky to see tomatoes at all. I have, however, removed
their reservoir, the place they gathered strength while waiting
for me to set out my purty lettle tomato plants. I have removed
all three of the mulberryless mulberry trees, and am diligently
destroying all signs of sproutlets from the roots. Maybe, maybe
this year, I'll have fall tomatoes.

Anyway, I would suggest looking into varieties that were bred to
produce in the heat.

Next year. My favorites are the Sweet 100s (cherry type). They seem
to do OK in the heat. I haven't had enough regular sized ones in the
last couple of years to can.
Sue


Penelope