On Mon, 30 May 2005 18:52:02 -0400, The Cook
wrote:

Penelope Periwinkle wrote:

Anyway, I would suggest looking into varieties that were bred to
produce in the heat.


Here is the URL for Burpee's Heatwave II.
http://www.burpee.com/shopping/produ...yword=heatwave

It is supposed to withstand heat up to 100° F.

Heat Wave, Sun Master, Sure Fire, Solar Fire, Solar Set, Sun
Leaper, Ozark Pink, Homestead, Tropic VFN, and the list goes on.

You just have to play with the different varieties and see which
one does best in your area.


Penelope


--
"Maybe you'd like to ask the Wizard for a heart."
"ElissaAnn"

Sue wrote:
On Sun, 29 May 2005 22:16:20 -0400, Penelope Periwinkle
wrote:

Around here, in South Carolina, it gets very, very hot in July
and August, and most tomatoes stop producing. If I can keep the
plants going until September, I usually see a second flush of
tomatoes, With a late frost, I can get a decent second crop.

Or, I *used* to see that. Since the War of the spit!Thrips
began, I'm lucky to see tomatoes at all. I have, however, removed
their reservoir, the place they gathered strength while waiting
for me to set out my purty lettle tomato plants. I have removed
all three of the mulberryless mulberry trees, and am diligently
destroying all signs of sproutlets from the roots. Maybe, maybe
this year, I'll have fall tomatoes.

Anyway, I would suggest looking into varieties that were bred to
produce in the heat.


Next year. My favorites are the Sweet 100s (cherry type). They seem
to do OK in the heat. I haven't had enough regular sized ones in the
last couple of years to can.
Sue


Penelope



hello,

i had one similar problem recently . the tomato plants were very big and
the tomato production quite low. one tomato in about 12 plants.
what i did was to prune the plants enough to increase the sun,air,
insect penetration in the plants and push them from leaf and stem
production to fruit production.

all these happened two weeks ago. now each plant has 5 or more fruits
without any other interference from me. since i live in Crete Greece our
days are quite hot and the plants dont seem to mind. when we have only
25 degrees of celsius it is a cool day.

i hope this helps a bit
--



--------------------------------------------------------------
Nick Apostolakis
e-mail:
Web Site: http://nickapos.oncrete.gr
--------------------------------------------------------------

On Sat, 02 Jul 2005 22:27:24 GMT, Nick Apostolakis
wrote:

Sue wrote:
On Sun, 29 May 2005 22:16:20 -0400, Penelope Periwinkle
wrote:

Around here, in South Carolina, it gets very, very hot in July
and August, and most tomatoes stop producing. If I can keep the
plants going until September, I usually see a second flush of
tomatoes, With a late frost, I can get a decent second crop.

Or, I *used* to see that. Since the War of the spit!Thrips
began, I'm lucky to see tomatoes at all. I have, however, removed
their reservoir, the place they gathered strength while waiting
for me to set out my purty lettle tomato plants. I have removed
all three of the mulberryless mulberry trees, and am diligently
destroying all signs of sproutlets from the roots. Maybe, maybe
this year, I'll have fall tomatoes.

Anyway, I would suggest looking into varieties that were bred to
produce in the heat.


Next year. My favorites are the Sweet 100s (cherry type). They seem
to do OK in the heat. I haven't had enough regular sized ones in the
last couple of years to can.
Sue


Penelope



hello,

i had one similar problem recently . the tomato plants were very big and
the tomato production quite low. one tomato in about 12 plants.
what i did was to prune the plants enough to increase the sun,air,
insect penetration in the plants and push them from leaf and stem
production to fruit production.

all these happened two weeks ago. now each plant has 5 or more fruits
without any other interference from me. since i live in Crete Greece our
days are quite hot and the plants dont seem to mind. when we have only
25 degrees of celsius it is a cool day.

i hope this helps a bit

Thanks. The plants that are really big have hardly any tomatoes. Too
much energy going into plant growth. One plant looks stunted and is
loaded with them. It will take me a lot of courage, but I may try
your method. Not much to lose if it doesn't work. (
Sue

You might also try slapping them. Don't hit them hard enough to break the
plants, but enough to get their attention. That tip was in a "Growing
Tomatoes" hand book. We have tried it and it worked.

It will also depend on whether the seeds used to product your plants were
determinate or indeterminate. Indeterminate will bloom and put on tomatoes
all year, the rest put them on once and then quit.

Dwayne



"Nick Apostolakis" wrote in message
...
Sue wrote:
On Sun, 29 May 2005 22:16:20 -0400, Penelope Periwinkle
wrote:

Around here, in South Carolina, it gets very, very hot in July
and August, and most tomatoes stop producing. If I can keep the
plants going until September, I usually see a second flush of
tomatoes, With a late frost, I can get a decent second crop.

Or, I *used* to see that. Since the War of the spit!Thrips
began, I'm lucky to see tomatoes at all. I have, however, removed
their reservoir, the place they gathered strength while waiting
for me to set out my purty lettle tomato plants. I have removed
all three of the mulberryless mulberry trees, and am diligently
destroying all signs of sproutlets from the roots. Maybe, maybe
this year, I'll have fall tomatoes.

Anyway, I would suggest looking into varieties that were bred to
produce in the heat.


Next year. My favorites are the Sweet 100s (cherry type). They seem
to do OK in the heat. I haven't had enough regular sized ones in the
last couple of years to can.
Sue


Penelope



hello,

i had one similar problem recently . the tomato plants were very big and
the tomato production quite low. one tomato in about 12 plants.
what i did was to prune the plants enough to increase the sun,air,
insect penetration in the plants and push them from leaf and stem
production to fruit production.

all these happened two weeks ago. now each plant has 5 or more fruits
without any other interference from me. since i live in Crete Greece our
days are quite hot and the plants dont seem to mind. when we have only
25 degrees of celsius it is a cool day.

i hope this helps a bit
--



--------------------------------------------------------------
Nick Apostolakis
e-mail:
Web Site: http://nickapos.oncrete.gr
--------------------------------------------------------------

On Mon, 04 Jul 2005 21:30:26 GMT, (Rez)
wrote:

In article , "Dwayne" wrote:
You might also try slapping them. Don't hit them hard enough to break the
plants, but enough to get their attention. That tip was in a "Growing
Tomatoes" hand book. We have tried it and it worked.

laughing Yet another form of malicious neglect, which some plants
seem to enjoy. Bring on the sadist gardeners!!

~REZ~
(whose lone tomato grew into a monster bush, and only started setting
fruit AFTER our temps got into the 100F range)

Then mine ought to be setting like crazy on the 103 day. Phew!!!
Sue

Sue writes:
The plants that are really big have hardly any tomatoes. Too
much energy going into plant growth.

You were too generous with the nitrogen fertiliser?

I believe you can use Sulphate of Potash to encourage flowering in many crops,
so why not try it for tomatoes. I think you disolve it in water and water it
in, but follow the directions on the pack.
--
John Savage (my news address is not valid for email)

On Tue, 05 Jul 2005 22:14:19 GMT, John Savage
wrote:

Sue writes:
The plants that are really big have hardly any tomatoes. Too
much energy going into plant growth.

You were too generous with the nitrogen fertiliser?

I, um, didn't use any fertilizer. ( Every year I rototill (OK, I
don't, but my gentleman friend does - the damn thing would fling me to
the ground) several bags of commercial top soil into the bed. When I
first started this gardening stuff (4 years ago) I put in some sand
and gypsum (really heavy clay soil).


I believe you can use Sulphate of Potash to encourage flowering in many crops,
so why not try it for tomatoes. I think you disolve it in water and water it
in, but follow the directions on the pack.

I'll look into that.
I probably ought to start a new thread on this next question and I'm
sure it's been gone over time and again in this NG, but I'm new here
so haven't seen it. Why do my tomatoes *always* split on top? Heat?
Too much or too little water?
Sue

Otherwise known as catfacing, uneven water, too little then too much.

John!

Sue wrote:

I'll look into that.
I probably ought to start a new thread on this next question and I'm
sure it's been gone over time and again in this NG, but I'm new here
so haven't seen it. Why do my tomatoes *always* split on top? Heat?
Too much or too little water?
Sue

On Tue, 05 Jul 2005 21:13:42 -0400, GA Pinhead
wrote:

Otherwise known as catfacing, uneven water, too little then too much.

Thanks.
Sue

John!

Sue wrote:

I'll look into that.
I probably ought to start a new thread on this next question and I'm
sure it's been gone over time and again in this NG, but I'm new here
so haven't seen it. Why do my tomatoes *always* split on top? Heat?
Too much or too little water?
Sue

Tomatoes...It been very hot in texas this year. I had a great crop of
tomatoes this year. This is something you might try, when the vine is
starting to brown take your hole and make a trench long enough to lay the
tomatoe vine down into it and cover it up with top soil, but leaving about 6
to 8 inches of the top sticking up and stake it. A new crop will start up
again.....I had great luck with this. Something else that i came up with
that works great.. I when down to wal-mart and brought one of those paper
shreeder. You know all that junk mail you get and newspapers, i shreed it
up and when i have enough i put it into a large bucket and add a very
little fertilizer to it and let it set for about a week. Then i sprayed it
into my garden and it works great...... Nick Apotolakis"
wrote in message
...
Sue wrote:
On Sun, 29 May 2005 22:16:20 -0400, Penelope Periwinkle
wrote:

Around here, in South Carolina, it gets very, very hot in July
and August, and most tomatoes stop producing. If I can keep the
plants going until September, I usually see a second flush of
tomatoes, With a late frost, I can get a decent second crop.

Or, I *used* to see that. Since the War of the spit!Thrips
began, I'm lucky to see tomatoes at all. I have, however, removed
their reservoir, the place they gathered strength while waiting
for me to set out my purty lettle tomato plants. I have removed
all three of the mulberryless mulberry trees, and am diligently
destroying all signs of sproutlets from the roots. Maybe, maybe
this year, I'll have fall tomatoes.

Anyway, I would suggest looking into varieties that were bred to
produce in the heat.


Next year. My favorites are the Sweet 100s (cherry type). They seem
to do OK in the heat. I haven't had enough regular sized ones in the
last couple of years to can.
Sue


Penelope



hello,

i had one similar problem recently . the tomato plants were very big and
the tomato production quite low. one tomato in about 12 plants.
what i did was to prune the plants enough to increase the sun,air,
insect penetration in the plants and push them from leaf and stem
production to fruit production.

all these happened two weeks ago. now each plant has 5 or more fruits
without any other interference from me. since i live in Crete Greece our
days are quite hot and the plants dont seem to mind. when we have only
25 degrees of celsius it is a cool day.

i hope this helps a bit
--



--------------------------------------------------------------
Nick Apostolakis
e-mail:
Web Site: http://nickapos.oncrete.gr
--------------------------------------------------------------

Tomatoes...It been very hot in texas this year. I had a great crop of
tomatoes this year. This is something you might try, when the vine is
starting to brown take your hole and make a trench long enough to lay the
tomatoe vine down into it and cover it up with top soil, but leaving about 6
to 8 inches of the top sticking up and stake it. A new crop will start up
again.....I had great luck with this. Something else that i came up with
that works great.. I when down to wal-mart and brought one of those paper
shreeder. You know all that junk mail you get and newspapers, i shreed it
up and when i have enough i put it into a large bucket and add a very
little fertilizer to it and let it set for about a week. Then i sprayed it
into my garden and it works great...... Nick Apotolakis"
wrote in message
...
Sue wrote:
On Sun, 29 May 2005 22:16:20 -0400, Penelope Periwinkle
wrote:

Around here, in South Carolina, it gets very, very hot in July
and August, and most tomatoes stop producing. If I can keep the
plants going until September, I usually see a second flush of
tomatoes, With a late frost, I can get a decent second crop.

Or, I *used* to see that. Since the War of the spit!Thrips
began, I'm lucky to see tomatoes at all. I have, however, removed
their reservoir, the place they gathered strength while waiting
for me to set out my purty lettle tomato plants. I have removed
all three of the mulberryless mulberry trees, and am diligently
destroying all signs of sproutlets from the roots. Maybe, maybe
this year, I'll have fall tomatoes.

Anyway, I would suggest looking into varieties that were bred to
produce in the heat.


Next year. My favorites are the Sweet 100s (cherry type). They seem
to do OK in the heat. I haven't had enough regular sized ones in the
last couple of years to can.
Sue


Penelope



hello,

i had one similar problem recently . the tomato plants were very big and
the tomato production quite low. one tomato in about 12 plants.
what i did was to prune the plants enough to increase the sun,air,
insect penetration in the plants and push them from leaf and stem
production to fruit production.

all these happened two weeks ago. now each plant has 5 or more fruits
without any other interference from me. since i live in Crete Greece our
days are quite hot and the plants dont seem to mind. when we have only
25 degrees of celsius it is a cool day.

i hope this helps a bit
--



--------------------------------------------------------------
Nick Apostolakis
e-mail:
Web Site: http://nickapos.oncrete.gr
--------------------------------------------------------------