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Old 18-02-2003, 08:23 PM
Bob A
 
Posts: n/a
Default plant plans - help?

I have a sword and anachris in my 55g tank, have had them almost since
setup, along with some cabomba. The anachris did terribly until the pleco
ate the cabomba (which was doing wonderfully) one day. Now the anachris is
doing wonderfully. The sword is holding its own.

3-4 months back I did a LOT of research on the proper methods of good plant
health, with the intent of heavily planting. Things then drew me away from
this for a while. Now I have the All-Glass 110w PC (not on the tank yet), I
have PMDD consisting of K2SO4, KNO3, and MgSO4 (separately). I have read
and printed out the pages on thekrib on PMDD. I have Tropica Master Grow
and Flourish (so far I've only been using Flourish) and 1/3 Flourite
substrate (along with 2/3 pea-sized gravel).

I have ordered a variety of plants from Phyl at TAP, she is truly nice and
helpful. I would recommend her for mail-order plants to anyone. They
should arrive Friday.

I should add that I'm now using RO/DI water, due to contaminated well-water
and getting tired of "importing" water from 5 miles away in a trash can.
I'm using RO Right, a touch of baking soda, and Kent Essentials.

Now the questions. This is all boggling my mind. Does the TMG replace the
Flourish, or should I use both? The PMDD chemicals I have... I don't
understand how to dose with them (what amounts/ratios). I don't have any
way to test for iron, which is I believe what thekrib suggests. I'd
APPRECIATE suggestions on a starting dosage of these chemicals. I do know
how to watch the nitrates.

On the subject of CO2, I plan to use DIY. Where is a good mail-order store
to pick up CO2 airline tubing, or can I use regular tubing for a while? I
also need yeast, brewers yeast or Phyl at one point suggested champagne
yeast. I contacted a mail-order home-brewer supplier and he said "sure",
the price was very good, then he never sent me his phone number so I could
give him my CC number. Phyl suggests using a regular airstone with no
reactor. I think I will put an airstone next to the intake of my power
filter.

I'm not shooting for the "planted-tank award", I just don't want any
disasters.

Please don't suggest local businesses for acquiring the tubing, yeast, etc.
I have personal reasons for wanting to mail-order, along with the fact that
it is 70 miles or more to a home-brewing store, places like that.

to anyone who helps me out, thank you for reading my long post, and thank
you for your help!

bob allred
north carolina


  #2   Report Post  
Old 19-02-2003, 11:59 AM
LeighMo
 
Posts: n/a
Default plant plans - help?

Does the TMG replace the
Flourish, or should I use both?


Don't use both. Use Flourish *or* TMG *or* PMDD.

All come with recommended dosing info. (PMDD's can be found at the Krib, TMG's
and Flourish's on the bottle.)

On the subject of CO2, I plan to use DIY. Where is a good mail-order store
to pick up CO2 airline tubing, or can I use regular tubing for a while?


Use that green silicone tubing, sold in regular pet stores. It's good enough.
(If you want to buy it online, BigAlsOnline.com and PetSolutions.com are good
companies.)

Given the size of your tank, you might want to run two bottles, staggered so
that one is peaking while the other is dying off.


Leigh

http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/
  #3   Report Post  
Old 19-02-2003, 11:59 AM
LeighMo
 
Posts: n/a
Default plant plans - help?

Does the TMG replace the
Flourish, or should I use both?


Don't use both. Use Flourish *or* TMG *or* PMDD.

All come with recommended dosing info. (PMDD's can be found at the Krib, TMG's
and Flourish's on the bottle.)

On the subject of CO2, I plan to use DIY. Where is a good mail-order store
to pick up CO2 airline tubing, or can I use regular tubing for a while?


Use that green silicone tubing, sold in regular pet stores. It's good enough.
(If you want to buy it online, BigAlsOnline.com and PetSolutions.com are good
companies.)

Given the size of your tank, you might want to run two bottles, staggered so
that one is peaking while the other is dying off.


Leigh

http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/
  #4   Report Post  
Old 19-02-2003, 04:54 PM
Richmond
 
Posts: n/a
Default plant plans - help?

Does the TMG replace the
Flourish, or should I use both?


If you are the one who bought the KNO3, K2SO4 and MgSO4 from me, then
I think you did not get the extra Trace mix.

So use Flourish *or* TMG with KNO3, K2SO4 and MgSO4.

On the subject of CO2, I plan to use DIY. Where is a good mail-order

store
to pick up CO2 airline tubing, or can I use regular tubing for a

while?

Initially you can use regular tubing. I think BigAlsOnline.com dosnt
have small length of Silicon tube. You can try www.thatpetplace.com.

also need yeast, brewers yeast or Phyl at one point suggested champagne
yeast. I contacted a mail-order home-brewer supplier and he said "sure",


Sorry to suggest local business, but its really cheap to get it
locally and your mailorder yeast may be expensive.

Thanks
Dominic
  #5   Report Post  
Old 19-02-2003, 04:54 PM
Richmond
 
Posts: n/a
Default plant plans - help?

Does the TMG replace the
Flourish, or should I use both?


If you are the one who bought the KNO3, K2SO4 and MgSO4 from me, then
I think you did not get the extra Trace mix.

So use Flourish *or* TMG with KNO3, K2SO4 and MgSO4.

On the subject of CO2, I plan to use DIY. Where is a good mail-order

store
to pick up CO2 airline tubing, or can I use regular tubing for a

while?

Initially you can use regular tubing. I think BigAlsOnline.com dosnt
have small length of Silicon tube. You can try www.thatpetplace.com.

also need yeast, brewers yeast or Phyl at one point suggested champagne
yeast. I contacted a mail-order home-brewer supplier and he said "sure",


Sorry to suggest local business, but its really cheap to get it
locally and your mailorder yeast may be expensive.

Thanks
Dominic


  #6   Report Post  
Old 19-02-2003, 06:41 PM
Dave Millman
 
Posts: n/a
Default plant plans - help?

Bob A wrote:

3-4 months back I did a LOT of research on the proper methods of good plant
health, with the intent of heavily planting. Things then drew me away from
this for a while. Now I have the All-Glass 110w PC (not on the tank yet), I
have PMDD consisting of K2SO4, KNO3, and MgSO4 (separately). I have read
and printed out the pages on thekrib on PMDD.


Are you missing the actual trace element fertilizer component of PMDD? Usually,
it's something like Plantex CSM. Or do you just have the three macro chemicals?

I have Tropica Master Grow
and Flourish (so far I've only been using Flourish) and 1/3 Flourite
substrate (along with 2/3 pea-sized gravel).


As others have pointed out, TMG is a complete fert product from Tropica, which
includes Iron and Potassium. Flourish is a less complete product from Seachem,
intended to be used with separate Iron and Potassium. Neither includes Nitrate.

Pick one, give away the other. Or pick PMDD and give away both. You get the
idea.

I should add that I'm now using RO/DI water, due to contaminated well-water
and getting tired of "importing" water from 5 miles away in a trash can.
I'm using RO Right, a touch of baking soda, and Kent Essentials.


I use pure RO water, no tap water. To target GH2, KH2, my recipe for 20 gallons
of water change water is:

2 teaspoons RO Right
1 teaspoon Baking Soda

This is used for a 30% weekly change. KH drifts down slowly (in my case, a bit
less than half a point a week), which is something to watch when injecting CO2.

Phyl suggests using a regular airstone with no
reactor. I think I will put an airstone next to the intake of my power
filter.


CO2 is a simple thing. If it drops your pH, it is working. If not, you need more
CO2 or a better reactor/diffuser scheme.

For DIY CO2 on a 55 gallon tank, consider using a pair of 2 liter soda bottles,
and changing them on an alternating 10 day schedule (Day 0: Change bottle A. Day
5 Change bottle B. Day 10: Change bottle A. Day 15: Change bottle B) This is a
little more frequent than some schedules suggest, but will keep your CO2 level
up. You could also start with a longer schedule and tune it based on measured pH
level.

Read Chuck's page for more info:
http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua/art_plant_co2chart.htm

  #7   Report Post  
Old 19-02-2003, 06:41 PM
Dave Millman
 
Posts: n/a
Default plant plans - help?

Bob A wrote:

3-4 months back I did a LOT of research on the proper methods of good plant
health, with the intent of heavily planting. Things then drew me away from
this for a while. Now I have the All-Glass 110w PC (not on the tank yet), I
have PMDD consisting of K2SO4, KNO3, and MgSO4 (separately). I have read
and printed out the pages on thekrib on PMDD.


Are you missing the actual trace element fertilizer component of PMDD? Usually,
it's something like Plantex CSM. Or do you just have the three macro chemicals?

I have Tropica Master Grow
and Flourish (so far I've only been using Flourish) and 1/3 Flourite
substrate (along with 2/3 pea-sized gravel).


As others have pointed out, TMG is a complete fert product from Tropica, which
includes Iron and Potassium. Flourish is a less complete product from Seachem,
intended to be used with separate Iron and Potassium. Neither includes Nitrate.

Pick one, give away the other. Or pick PMDD and give away both. You get the
idea.

I should add that I'm now using RO/DI water, due to contaminated well-water
and getting tired of "importing" water from 5 miles away in a trash can.
I'm using RO Right, a touch of baking soda, and Kent Essentials.


I use pure RO water, no tap water. To target GH2, KH2, my recipe for 20 gallons
of water change water is:

2 teaspoons RO Right
1 teaspoon Baking Soda

This is used for a 30% weekly change. KH drifts down slowly (in my case, a bit
less than half a point a week), which is something to watch when injecting CO2.

Phyl suggests using a regular airstone with no
reactor. I think I will put an airstone next to the intake of my power
filter.


CO2 is a simple thing. If it drops your pH, it is working. If not, you need more
CO2 or a better reactor/diffuser scheme.

For DIY CO2 on a 55 gallon tank, consider using a pair of 2 liter soda bottles,
and changing them on an alternating 10 day schedule (Day 0: Change bottle A. Day
5 Change bottle B. Day 10: Change bottle A. Day 15: Change bottle B) This is a
little more frequent than some schedules suggest, but will keep your CO2 level
up. You could also start with a longer schedule and tune it based on measured pH
level.

Read Chuck's page for more info:
http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua/art_plant_co2chart.htm

  #8   Report Post  
Old 20-02-2003, 01:44 AM
Bob A
 
Posts: n/a
Default plant plans - help?

Just so I don't write three replies, thanks to all of you.

My understanding was that PMDD (yes, I got this from you Richmond, thanks)
consists of "macronutrients" and you use it along with a "trace mix" which I
thought was, for example, TMG. I guess I was wrong.

From reading on Thekrib, Potassium, Magnesium, and Nitrogen are important.
These are the chemicals in the PMDD I bought from Richmond. Are they also
in TMG? I know it says "no nitrates".

If the bottom line is, just use the TMG, that simplifies things. I have a
1/2 liter bottle.

I will be receiving my plants Friday. I really want a beautifully planted
aquarium. I hope that if I have problems, you folks will help out.

bob


  #9   Report Post  
Old 20-02-2003, 01:44 AM
Bob A
 
Posts: n/a
Default plant plans - help?

Just so I don't write three replies, thanks to all of you.

My understanding was that PMDD (yes, I got this from you Richmond, thanks)
consists of "macronutrients" and you use it along with a "trace mix" which I
thought was, for example, TMG. I guess I was wrong.

From reading on Thekrib, Potassium, Magnesium, and Nitrogen are important.
These are the chemicals in the PMDD I bought from Richmond. Are they also
in TMG? I know it says "no nitrates".

If the bottom line is, just use the TMG, that simplifies things. I have a
1/2 liter bottle.

I will be receiving my plants Friday. I really want a beautifully planted
aquarium. I hope that if I have problems, you folks will help out.

bob


  #10   Report Post  
Old 20-02-2003, 03:31 AM
LeighMo
 
Posts: n/a
Default plant plans - help?

My understanding was that PMDD (yes, I got this from you Richmond, thanks)
consists of "macronutrients" and you use it along with a "trace mix" which I
thought was, for example, TMG. I guess I was wrong.


PMDD has trace mix as well as other stuff like nitrate.

From reading on Thekrib, Potassium, Magnesium, and Nitrogen are important.
These are the chemicals in the PMDD I bought from Richmond. Are they also
in TMG? I know it says "no nitrates".


TMG doesn't have nitrogen (nitrate). But a lot of people don't need it.
Nitrate needs to be added to high-light tanks, or tanks without many fish.
Otherwise, fish provide more than enough of it. In addition, tapwater may have
quite a bit of nitrate in it, depending on where you live.

Since your tank is a moderate-light tank (110 watts over 55 gallons), you may
not even need to add nitrate. Get a test kit and measure first.

If the bottom line is, just use the TMG, that simplifies things. I have a
1/2 liter bottle.


I would use just TMG, at least at first. Later on, you may find you need to
add nitrate, phosphate, or other stuff. (But you might not. In a
moderate-light tank, TMG and regular water changes are often enough. That's
all I use in my moderate-light tank.)


Leigh

http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/


  #11   Report Post  
Old 20-02-2003, 03:31 AM
LeighMo
 
Posts: n/a
Default plant plans - help?

My understanding was that PMDD (yes, I got this from you Richmond, thanks)
consists of "macronutrients" and you use it along with a "trace mix" which I
thought was, for example, TMG. I guess I was wrong.


PMDD has trace mix as well as other stuff like nitrate.

From reading on Thekrib, Potassium, Magnesium, and Nitrogen are important.
These are the chemicals in the PMDD I bought from Richmond. Are they also
in TMG? I know it says "no nitrates".


TMG doesn't have nitrogen (nitrate). But a lot of people don't need it.
Nitrate needs to be added to high-light tanks, or tanks without many fish.
Otherwise, fish provide more than enough of it. In addition, tapwater may have
quite a bit of nitrate in it, depending on where you live.

Since your tank is a moderate-light tank (110 watts over 55 gallons), you may
not even need to add nitrate. Get a test kit and measure first.

If the bottom line is, just use the TMG, that simplifies things. I have a
1/2 liter bottle.


I would use just TMG, at least at first. Later on, you may find you need to
add nitrate, phosphate, or other stuff. (But you might not. In a
moderate-light tank, TMG and regular water changes are often enough. That's
all I use in my moderate-light tank.)


Leigh

http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/
  #12   Report Post  
Old 20-02-2003, 06:20 PM
Bob A
 
Posts: n/a
Default plant plans - help?

Thanks a lot, Leigh, this sounds like a good way to start out. (TMG only) I
have 1/3 fluorite substrate, Phyl says after 3 months start using Flourish
tabs in the substrate.

I can test nitrates fairly closely.

I want to thank you especially, because you have replied to almost every
question I've asked here, some a few months back, some within the past
several days.

bob


"LeighMo" wrote in message
...
My understanding was that PMDD (yes, I got this from you Richmond,

thanks)
consists of "macronutrients" and you use it along with a "trace mix"

which I
thought was, for example, TMG. I guess I was wrong.


PMDD has trace mix as well as other stuff like nitrate.

From reading on Thekrib, Potassium, Magnesium, and Nitrogen are

important.
These are the chemicals in the PMDD I bought from Richmond. Are they

also
in TMG? I know it says "no nitrates".


TMG doesn't have nitrogen (nitrate). But a lot of people don't need it.
Nitrate needs to be added to high-light tanks, or tanks without many fish.
Otherwise, fish provide more than enough of it. In addition, tapwater may

have
quite a bit of nitrate in it, depending on where you live.

Since your tank is a moderate-light tank (110 watts over 55 gallons), you

may
not even need to add nitrate. Get a test kit and measure first.

If the bottom line is, just use the TMG, that simplifies things. I have

a
1/2 liter bottle.


I would use just TMG, at least at first. Later on, you may find you need

to
add nitrate, phosphate, or other stuff. (But you might not. In a
moderate-light tank, TMG and regular water changes are often enough.

That's
all I use in my moderate-light tank.)


Leigh

http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/



  #13   Report Post  
Old 20-02-2003, 06:20 PM
Bob A
 
Posts: n/a
Default plant plans - help?

Thanks a lot, Leigh, this sounds like a good way to start out. (TMG only) I
have 1/3 fluorite substrate, Phyl says after 3 months start using Flourish
tabs in the substrate.

I can test nitrates fairly closely.

I want to thank you especially, because you have replied to almost every
question I've asked here, some a few months back, some within the past
several days.

bob


"LeighMo" wrote in message
...
My understanding was that PMDD (yes, I got this from you Richmond,

thanks)
consists of "macronutrients" and you use it along with a "trace mix"

which I
thought was, for example, TMG. I guess I was wrong.


PMDD has trace mix as well as other stuff like nitrate.

From reading on Thekrib, Potassium, Magnesium, and Nitrogen are

important.
These are the chemicals in the PMDD I bought from Richmond. Are they

also
in TMG? I know it says "no nitrates".


TMG doesn't have nitrogen (nitrate). But a lot of people don't need it.
Nitrate needs to be added to high-light tanks, or tanks without many fish.
Otherwise, fish provide more than enough of it. In addition, tapwater may

have
quite a bit of nitrate in it, depending on where you live.

Since your tank is a moderate-light tank (110 watts over 55 gallons), you

may
not even need to add nitrate. Get a test kit and measure first.

If the bottom line is, just use the TMG, that simplifies things. I have

a
1/2 liter bottle.


I would use just TMG, at least at first. Later on, you may find you need

to
add nitrate, phosphate, or other stuff. (But you might not. In a
moderate-light tank, TMG and regular water changes are often enough.

That's
all I use in my moderate-light tank.)


Leigh

http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/



  #14   Report Post  
Old 20-02-2003, 07:53 PM
Dave Millman
 
Posts: n/a
Default plant plans - help?

Bob A wrote:

I have 1/3 fluorite substrate, Phyl says after 3 months start using Flourish
tabs in the substrate.


I love Phyllis, I have sent her two customers this month alone, and the plants
she sold them were, as always, spectacular. Right now she is shipping Madagascar
Lace plants that are to die for.

But Phyllis keeps recommending mixing Flourite with gravel to help hold the
plants down. Since I've never had a single plant not stay down in my 100%
Flourite substrate, I don't understand this recommendation.

Since it holds down plants just fine, the only reasons to mix it are cost or
looks. If you decide to mix, remember two things:

1. The Flourite bag recommends not using less than 50% Flourite.

2. Unless the gravel is a similar size and shape, the mix will separate over
time. Sand will separate to the bottom, being more dense and smaller, as will
smaller pebbles. Larger gravel could go either way depending on size and shape,
but usually down.

  #15   Report Post  
Old 20-02-2003, 07:53 PM
Dave Millman
 
Posts: n/a
Default plant plans - help?

Bob A wrote:

I have 1/3 fluorite substrate, Phyl says after 3 months start using Flourish
tabs in the substrate.


I love Phyllis, I have sent her two customers this month alone, and the plants
she sold them were, as always, spectacular. Right now she is shipping Madagascar
Lace plants that are to die for.

But Phyllis keeps recommending mixing Flourite with gravel to help hold the
plants down. Since I've never had a single plant not stay down in my 100%
Flourite substrate, I don't understand this recommendation.

Since it holds down plants just fine, the only reasons to mix it are cost or
looks. If you decide to mix, remember two things:

1. The Flourite bag recommends not using less than 50% Flourite.

2. Unless the gravel is a similar size and shape, the mix will separate over
time. Sand will separate to the bottom, being more dense and smaller, as will
smaller pebbles. Larger gravel could go either way depending on size and shape,
but usually down.

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