#16   Report Post  
Old 08-02-2004, 03:37 PM
 
Posts: n/a
Default CO2 problems

How warm must the bottle with the mixture be kept.Room temp;cooler,warmer?
Thanks Skipp
"Aquatic-Store.com" sales a@t Aquatic-Store.com wrote in message
...
Also check for excessive heat as this will kill the yeast


Kasselmann aquarium plants book 59.99

Marcus

http://www.aquatic-store.com/

Co2 tanks on sale
Power compact bulbs and MH the lowest on the net
Co2 regulator and bubble counter with needle valve $75

do you want a FREE CO2 Regulator or FREE CO2 DIFFUSOR????

Swing on by our webbforum to see how to get one!!

http://aquatic.yupapa.com/phpbb/index.php

http://www.aquarium-plant-store.com







On 6 Feb 2004 23:29:58 -0800, (Dacaprice) wrote:

Ok.... so far everything I have read about a DIY CO2 setup is very
similar. I opted to by the Nutrafin system... but with the packets
they sold me I was getting nothing. I think the yeast was dead.
Regardless, I re-made my own mixture with yeast and baking soda using
the same measurements that come in the packets. I finally got
bubbles, but they only lasted a couple hours then nothing. I then
removed the Nutrafin canister and used a 1 gallon juice bottle,
increased the amounts of everything and presto... great bubbles. But
again it only lasted a couple hours. What is going on!?!?!? It is
very frustrating. I have soft water here; we have a water softener in
our home. Does that make a difference? Should I try a different
brand of yeast? Right now I am using Red Start Active dry yeast which
was just what was at the local supermarket. Any help would be greatly
appreciated.




  #17   Report Post  
Old 08-02-2004, 04:45 PM
Djay
 
Posts: n/a
Default CO2 problems

To start the yeast read the yeast lable for the particular type you are
using. It will be either 85 degrees for the cake yeast or 100 ~ 105 degrees
for the fleischmans and star bread yeast. I used to start my suger/ warm
water mix and let it sit for a day. You will see foaming at the surface and
that means the yeast is alive and kicking! Then just hook it up to your CO2
reactor.
Now if your yeast bottle is in a very cold area you may have difficulty
keeping the yeast culture alive. Mine was in a room that didn't get below
65 degrees at night (winter) and during the day it would sometimes ballon
into the upper 80s (summer). I kept the yeast bottle on top of my aquarium
hood in order to help it heat up when the lights kicked on.
Also as far as the baking soda goes... it's fine to add it to counteract the
soft water conditions mentioned in Dacaprice's post.

DJay


wrote in message ...
How warm must the bottle with the mixture be kept.Room temp;cooler,warmer?
Thanks Skipp
"Aquatic-Store.com" sales a@t Aquatic-Store.com wrote in message
...
Also check for excessive heat as this will kill the yeast


Kasselmann aquarium plants book 59.99

Marcus

http://www.aquatic-store.com/

Co2 tanks on sale
Power compact bulbs and MH the lowest on the net
Co2 regulator and bubble counter with needle valve $75

do you want a FREE CO2 Regulator or FREE CO2 DIFFUSOR????

Swing on by our webbforum to see how to get one!!

http://aquatic.yupapa.com/phpbb/index.php

http://www.aquarium-plant-store.com







On 6 Feb 2004 23:29:58 -0800, (Dacaprice) wrote:

Ok.... so far everything I have read about a DIY CO2 setup is very
similar. I opted to by the Nutrafin system... but with the packets
they sold me I was getting nothing. I think the yeast was dead.
Regardless, I re-made my own mixture with yeast and baking soda using
the same measurements that come in the packets. I finally got
bubbles, but they only lasted a couple hours then nothing. I then
removed the Nutrafin canister and used a 1 gallon juice bottle,
increased the amounts of everything and presto... great bubbles. But
again it only lasted a couple hours. What is going on!?!?!? It is
very frustrating. I have soft water here; we have a water softener in
our home. Does that make a difference? Should I try a different
brand of yeast? Right now I am using Red Start Active dry yeast which
was just what was at the local supermarket. Any help would be greatly
appreciated.






  #18   Report Post  
Old 08-02-2004, 07:35 PM
Dunter Powries
 
Posts: n/a
Default CO2 problems

Robert Flory wrote in message
...
...
The big juice bottles work for me. I get a couple of weeks at a run at the
very least. I just dump a bunch of sugar in (about double a two liter
bottle recipe) add water, shake to mix, add red star or what ever I find

on
the shelf and have bubbles in a half hour or so.

I stagger two bottles so optimizing the mix isn't worth the trouble.


I have two juice bottles on powerheads - 1½ cups sugar and a pinch of yeast
gives me better than ten days. I replace the mixture with each weekly water
change so for me, too, there's not much point in fine tuning the process any
further.



  #19   Report Post  
Old 08-02-2004, 07:35 PM
Dunter Powries
 
Posts: n/a
Default CO2 problems

Robert Flory wrote in message
...
...
The big juice bottles work for me. I get a couple of weeks at a run at the
very least. I just dump a bunch of sugar in (about double a two liter
bottle recipe) add water, shake to mix, add red star or what ever I find

on
the shelf and have bubbles in a half hour or so.

I stagger two bottles so optimizing the mix isn't worth the trouble.


I have two juice bottles on powerheads - 1½ cups sugar and a pinch of yeast
gives me better than ten days. I replace the mixture with each weekly water
change so for me, too, there's not much point in fine tuning the process any
further.



  #20   Report Post  
Old 08-02-2004, 07:35 PM
Dunter Powries
 
Posts: n/a
Default CO2 problems

Robert Flory wrote in message
...
...
The big juice bottles work for me. I get a couple of weeks at a run at the
very least. I just dump a bunch of sugar in (about double a two liter
bottle recipe) add water, shake to mix, add red star or what ever I find

on
the shelf and have bubbles in a half hour or so.

I stagger two bottles so optimizing the mix isn't worth the trouble.


I have two juice bottles on powerheads - 1½ cups sugar and a pinch of yeast
gives me better than ten days. I replace the mixture with each weekly water
change so for me, too, there's not much point in fine tuning the process any
further.





  #21   Report Post  
Old 08-02-2004, 07:35 PM
Dunter Powries
 
Posts: n/a
Default CO2 problems

Robert Flory wrote in message
...
...
The big juice bottles work for me. I get a couple of weeks at a run at the
very least. I just dump a bunch of sugar in (about double a two liter
bottle recipe) add water, shake to mix, add red star or what ever I find

on
the shelf and have bubbles in a half hour or so.

I stagger two bottles so optimizing the mix isn't worth the trouble.


I have two juice bottles on powerheads - 1½ cups sugar and a pinch of yeast
gives me better than ten days. I replace the mixture with each weekly water
change so for me, too, there's not much point in fine tuning the process any
further.



  #22   Report Post  
Old 08-02-2004, 07:36 PM
Dunter Powries
 
Posts: n/a
Default CO2 problems

Djay wrote in message
...
...
Now if your yeast bottle is in a very cold area you may have difficulty
keeping the yeast culture alive.


The yeast will be alive, just not especially active. The lower the
temperature, the slower the production of CO2. The higher the temperature -
up to about 110° - the more rapid the conversion of sugar to alcohol and the
sooner you will have to replace the mixture.

The most common method of killing the yeast is by using hot water during
mixing. Hot water or chlorinated tap water WILL kill the yeast. The reason
hot water is used at the beginning of the process is to dissolve the sugar.
Let it stand or add cooler water until the solution is (well) below 110°
before adding any yeast.


  #23   Report Post  
Old 08-02-2004, 07:36 PM
Dunter Powries
 
Posts: n/a
Default CO2 problems

Djay wrote in message
...
...
Now if your yeast bottle is in a very cold area you may have difficulty
keeping the yeast culture alive.


The yeast will be alive, just not especially active. The lower the
temperature, the slower the production of CO2. The higher the temperature -
up to about 110° - the more rapid the conversion of sugar to alcohol and the
sooner you will have to replace the mixture.

The most common method of killing the yeast is by using hot water during
mixing. Hot water or chlorinated tap water WILL kill the yeast. The reason
hot water is used at the beginning of the process is to dissolve the sugar.
Let it stand or add cooler water until the solution is (well) below 110°
before adding any yeast.


  #24   Report Post  
Old 08-02-2004, 07:36 PM
Dunter Powries
 
Posts: n/a
Default CO2 problems

Djay wrote in message
...
...
Now if your yeast bottle is in a very cold area you may have difficulty
keeping the yeast culture alive.


The yeast will be alive, just not especially active. The lower the
temperature, the slower the production of CO2. The higher the temperature -
up to about 110° - the more rapid the conversion of sugar to alcohol and the
sooner you will have to replace the mixture.

The most common method of killing the yeast is by using hot water during
mixing. Hot water or chlorinated tap water WILL kill the yeast. The reason
hot water is used at the beginning of the process is to dissolve the sugar.
Let it stand or add cooler water until the solution is (well) below 110°
before adding any yeast.


  #25   Report Post  
Old 08-02-2004, 07:36 PM
Dunter Powries
 
Posts: n/a
Default CO2 problems

Djay wrote in message
...
...
Now if your yeast bottle is in a very cold area you may have difficulty
keeping the yeast culture alive.


The yeast will be alive, just not especially active. The lower the
temperature, the slower the production of CO2. The higher the temperature -
up to about 110° - the more rapid the conversion of sugar to alcohol and the
sooner you will have to replace the mixture.

The most common method of killing the yeast is by using hot water during
mixing. Hot water or chlorinated tap water WILL kill the yeast. The reason
hot water is used at the beginning of the process is to dissolve the sugar.
Let it stand or add cooler water until the solution is (well) below 110°
before adding any yeast.




  #26   Report Post  
Old 08-02-2004, 08:05 PM
Dunter Powries
 
Posts: n/a
Default CO2 problems

Robert Flory wrote in message
...
...
The big juice bottles work for me. I get a couple of weeks at a run at the
very least. I just dump a bunch of sugar in (about double a two liter
bottle recipe) add water, shake to mix, add red star or what ever I find

on
the shelf and have bubbles in a half hour or so.

I stagger two bottles so optimizing the mix isn't worth the trouble.


I have two juice bottles on powerheads - 1½ cups sugar and a pinch of yeast
gives me better than ten days. I replace the mixture with each weekly water
change so for me, too, there's not much point in fine tuning the process any
further.



  #27   Report Post  
Old 08-02-2004, 08:11 PM
Dunter Powries
 
Posts: n/a
Default CO2 problems

Djay wrote in message
...
...
Now if your yeast bottle is in a very cold area you may have difficulty
keeping the yeast culture alive.


The yeast will be alive, just not especially active. The lower the
temperature, the slower the production of CO2. The higher the temperature -
up to about 110° - the more rapid the conversion of sugar to alcohol and the
sooner you will have to replace the mixture.

The most common method of killing the yeast is by using hot water during
mixing. Hot water or chlorinated tap water WILL kill the yeast. The reason
hot water is used at the beginning of the process is to dissolve the sugar.
Let it stand or add cooler water until the solution is (well) below 110°
before adding any yeast.


  #28   Report Post  
Old 11-02-2004, 04:26 AM
Dacaprice
 
Posts: n/a
Default CO2 problems

When I change my mixture in my 2 Nutrafin systems I get bubbles initially
for only a couple of hours, then about 12 - 24 hrs later the system starts
bubbling again and lasts a couple of weeks.
The Nutrafin instruction state that this might happen.

How long are you leaving the mixture before you decide it isn't working?

Tony


I let it run for about 4 days and no luck... Since I made my initial
post I filled a 1 gallon Hawaiin Punch container with a mixture that
was meant for a 2 liter bottle and have been getting excellent
bubbleage (for lack of a better word It has been running strong
for 4 days now so I'll keep my fingers crossed and see what happens.
The bubble counter works great.... bubbles dwindle to practically
nothing by the time they reach the top and I usually have about 8 or
so in there at any given time.
  #29   Report Post  
Old 11-02-2004, 04:26 AM
Dacaprice
 
Posts: n/a
Default CO2 problems

When I change my mixture in my 2 Nutrafin systems I get bubbles initially
for only a couple of hours, then about 12 - 24 hrs later the system starts
bubbling again and lasts a couple of weeks.
The Nutrafin instruction state that this might happen.

How long are you leaving the mixture before you decide it isn't working?

Tony


I let it run for about 4 days and no luck... Since I made my initial
post I filled a 1 gallon Hawaiin Punch container with a mixture that
was meant for a 2 liter bottle and have been getting excellent
bubbleage (for lack of a better word It has been running strong
for 4 days now so I'll keep my fingers crossed and see what happens.
The bubble counter works great.... bubbles dwindle to practically
nothing by the time they reach the top and I usually have about 8 or
so in there at any given time.
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