Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
#17
|
|||
|
|||
CO2 problems
To start the yeast read the yeast lable for the particular type you are
using. It will be either 85 degrees for the cake yeast or 100 ~ 105 degrees for the fleischmans and star bread yeast. I used to start my suger/ warm water mix and let it sit for a day. You will see foaming at the surface and that means the yeast is alive and kicking! Then just hook it up to your CO2 reactor. Now if your yeast bottle is in a very cold area you may have difficulty keeping the yeast culture alive. Mine was in a room that didn't get below 65 degrees at night (winter) and during the day it would sometimes ballon into the upper 80s (summer). I kept the yeast bottle on top of my aquarium hood in order to help it heat up when the lights kicked on. Also as far as the baking soda goes... it's fine to add it to counteract the soft water conditions mentioned in Dacaprice's post. DJay wrote in message ... How warm must the bottle with the mixture be kept.Room temp;cooler,warmer? Thanks Skipp "Aquatic-Store.com" sales a@t Aquatic-Store.com wrote in message ... Also check for excessive heat as this will kill the yeast Kasselmann aquarium plants book 59.99 Marcus http://www.aquatic-store.com/ Co2 tanks on sale Power compact bulbs and MH the lowest on the net Co2 regulator and bubble counter with needle valve $75 do you want a FREE CO2 Regulator or FREE CO2 DIFFUSOR???? Swing on by our webbforum to see how to get one!! http://aquatic.yupapa.com/phpbb/index.php http://www.aquarium-plant-store.com On 6 Feb 2004 23:29:58 -0800, (Dacaprice) wrote: Ok.... so far everything I have read about a DIY CO2 setup is very similar. I opted to by the Nutrafin system... but with the packets they sold me I was getting nothing. I think the yeast was dead. Regardless, I re-made my own mixture with yeast and baking soda using the same measurements that come in the packets. I finally got bubbles, but they only lasted a couple hours then nothing. I then removed the Nutrafin canister and used a 1 gallon juice bottle, increased the amounts of everything and presto... great bubbles. But again it only lasted a couple hours. What is going on!?!?!? It is very frustrating. I have soft water here; we have a water softener in our home. Does that make a difference? Should I try a different brand of yeast? Right now I am using Red Start Active dry yeast which was just what was at the local supermarket. Any help would be greatly appreciated. |
#18
|
|||
|
|||
CO2 problems
Robert Flory wrote in message
... ... The big juice bottles work for me. I get a couple of weeks at a run at the very least. I just dump a bunch of sugar in (about double a two liter bottle recipe) add water, shake to mix, add red star or what ever I find on the shelf and have bubbles in a half hour or so. I stagger two bottles so optimizing the mix isn't worth the trouble. I have two juice bottles on powerheads - 1½ cups sugar and a pinch of yeast gives me better than ten days. I replace the mixture with each weekly water change so for me, too, there's not much point in fine tuning the process any further. |
#19
|
|||
|
|||
CO2 problems
Robert Flory wrote in message
... ... The big juice bottles work for me. I get a couple of weeks at a run at the very least. I just dump a bunch of sugar in (about double a two liter bottle recipe) add water, shake to mix, add red star or what ever I find on the shelf and have bubbles in a half hour or so. I stagger two bottles so optimizing the mix isn't worth the trouble. I have two juice bottles on powerheads - 1½ cups sugar and a pinch of yeast gives me better than ten days. I replace the mixture with each weekly water change so for me, too, there's not much point in fine tuning the process any further. |
#20
|
|||
|
|||
CO2 problems
Robert Flory wrote in message
... ... The big juice bottles work for me. I get a couple of weeks at a run at the very least. I just dump a bunch of sugar in (about double a two liter bottle recipe) add water, shake to mix, add red star or what ever I find on the shelf and have bubbles in a half hour or so. I stagger two bottles so optimizing the mix isn't worth the trouble. I have two juice bottles on powerheads - 1½ cups sugar and a pinch of yeast gives me better than ten days. I replace the mixture with each weekly water change so for me, too, there's not much point in fine tuning the process any further. |
#21
|
|||
|
|||
CO2 problems
Robert Flory wrote in message
... ... The big juice bottles work for me. I get a couple of weeks at a run at the very least. I just dump a bunch of sugar in (about double a two liter bottle recipe) add water, shake to mix, add red star or what ever I find on the shelf and have bubbles in a half hour or so. I stagger two bottles so optimizing the mix isn't worth the trouble. I have two juice bottles on powerheads - 1½ cups sugar and a pinch of yeast gives me better than ten days. I replace the mixture with each weekly water change so for me, too, there's not much point in fine tuning the process any further. |
#22
|
|||
|
|||
CO2 problems
Djay wrote in message
... ... Now if your yeast bottle is in a very cold area you may have difficulty keeping the yeast culture alive. The yeast will be alive, just not especially active. The lower the temperature, the slower the production of CO2. The higher the temperature - up to about 110° - the more rapid the conversion of sugar to alcohol and the sooner you will have to replace the mixture. The most common method of killing the yeast is by using hot water during mixing. Hot water or chlorinated tap water WILL kill the yeast. The reason hot water is used at the beginning of the process is to dissolve the sugar. Let it stand or add cooler water until the solution is (well) below 110° before adding any yeast. |
#23
|
|||
|
|||
CO2 problems
Djay wrote in message
... ... Now if your yeast bottle is in a very cold area you may have difficulty keeping the yeast culture alive. The yeast will be alive, just not especially active. The lower the temperature, the slower the production of CO2. The higher the temperature - up to about 110° - the more rapid the conversion of sugar to alcohol and the sooner you will have to replace the mixture. The most common method of killing the yeast is by using hot water during mixing. Hot water or chlorinated tap water WILL kill the yeast. The reason hot water is used at the beginning of the process is to dissolve the sugar. Let it stand or add cooler water until the solution is (well) below 110° before adding any yeast. |
#24
|
|||
|
|||
CO2 problems
Djay wrote in message
... ... Now if your yeast bottle is in a very cold area you may have difficulty keeping the yeast culture alive. The yeast will be alive, just not especially active. The lower the temperature, the slower the production of CO2. The higher the temperature - up to about 110° - the more rapid the conversion of sugar to alcohol and the sooner you will have to replace the mixture. The most common method of killing the yeast is by using hot water during mixing. Hot water or chlorinated tap water WILL kill the yeast. The reason hot water is used at the beginning of the process is to dissolve the sugar. Let it stand or add cooler water until the solution is (well) below 110° before adding any yeast. |
#25
|
|||
|
|||
CO2 problems
Djay wrote in message
... ... Now if your yeast bottle is in a very cold area you may have difficulty keeping the yeast culture alive. The yeast will be alive, just not especially active. The lower the temperature, the slower the production of CO2. The higher the temperature - up to about 110° - the more rapid the conversion of sugar to alcohol and the sooner you will have to replace the mixture. The most common method of killing the yeast is by using hot water during mixing. Hot water or chlorinated tap water WILL kill the yeast. The reason hot water is used at the beginning of the process is to dissolve the sugar. Let it stand or add cooler water until the solution is (well) below 110° before adding any yeast. |
#26
|
|||
|
|||
CO2 problems
Robert Flory wrote in message
... ... The big juice bottles work for me. I get a couple of weeks at a run at the very least. I just dump a bunch of sugar in (about double a two liter bottle recipe) add water, shake to mix, add red star or what ever I find on the shelf and have bubbles in a half hour or so. I stagger two bottles so optimizing the mix isn't worth the trouble. I have two juice bottles on powerheads - 1½ cups sugar and a pinch of yeast gives me better than ten days. I replace the mixture with each weekly water change so for me, too, there's not much point in fine tuning the process any further. |
#27
|
|||
|
|||
CO2 problems
Djay wrote in message
... ... Now if your yeast bottle is in a very cold area you may have difficulty keeping the yeast culture alive. The yeast will be alive, just not especially active. The lower the temperature, the slower the production of CO2. The higher the temperature - up to about 110° - the more rapid the conversion of sugar to alcohol and the sooner you will have to replace the mixture. The most common method of killing the yeast is by using hot water during mixing. Hot water or chlorinated tap water WILL kill the yeast. The reason hot water is used at the beginning of the process is to dissolve the sugar. Let it stand or add cooler water until the solution is (well) below 110° before adding any yeast. |
#28
|
|||
|
|||
CO2 problems
When I change my mixture in my 2 Nutrafin systems I get bubbles initially
for only a couple of hours, then about 12 - 24 hrs later the system starts bubbling again and lasts a couple of weeks. The Nutrafin instruction state that this might happen. How long are you leaving the mixture before you decide it isn't working? Tony I let it run for about 4 days and no luck... Since I made my initial post I filled a 1 gallon Hawaiin Punch container with a mixture that was meant for a 2 liter bottle and have been getting excellent bubbleage (for lack of a better word It has been running strong for 4 days now so I'll keep my fingers crossed and see what happens. The bubble counter works great.... bubbles dwindle to practically nothing by the time they reach the top and I usually have about 8 or so in there at any given time. |
#29
|
|||
|
|||
CO2 problems
When I change my mixture in my 2 Nutrafin systems I get bubbles initially
for only a couple of hours, then about 12 - 24 hrs later the system starts bubbling again and lasts a couple of weeks. The Nutrafin instruction state that this might happen. How long are you leaving the mixture before you decide it isn't working? Tony I let it run for about 4 days and no luck... Since I made my initial post I filled a 1 gallon Hawaiin Punch container with a mixture that was meant for a 2 liter bottle and have been getting excellent bubbleage (for lack of a better word It has been running strong for 4 days now so I'll keep my fingers crossed and see what happens. The bubble counter works great.... bubbles dwindle to practically nothing by the time they reach the top and I usually have about 8 or so in there at any given time. |
Reply |
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Forum | |||
CO2 diffuser problems | Freshwater Aquaria Plants | |||
FA: DIY CO2 injection system with 5 lb CO2 tank | Freshwater Aquaria Plants | |||
Sera CO2-Start vs Hagen CO2 Natural Plant System | Freshwater Aquaria Plants | |||
Got CO2 injection system, now where the hell do I get the CO2 tank? | Freshwater Aquaria Plants | |||
Got CO2 injection system, now where the hell do I get the CO2 | Freshwater Aquaria Plants |