I have a Black Walnut Tree that is growing wild in my yard. The tree
has seed/nut on it. I would like to use the nuts to grow other Black
Walnut trees on my property. How do I do this?

Al

Stratification helps, Either in a secure outside storage, or in a brown bag
in the refrigerator. Let em over winter, and plant in the spring.


"Al" wrote in message
news:TzfHi.2128$603.952@trndny02...


I have a Black Walnut Tree that is growing wild in my yard. The tree has
seed/nut on it. I would like to use the nuts to grow other Black Walnut
trees on my property. How do I do this?

Al

"D. Staples" wrote:

Stratification helps,

I believe the word you want is 'scarification'.

M-W

scar?i?fy
transitive verb
1 : to make scratches or small cuts in (as the skin) scarify an area
for vaccination
2 : to lacerate the feelings of
3 : to break up and loosen the surface of (as a field or road)
*4 : to cut or soften the wall of (a hard seed) to hasten germination
---

Sheldon expounded:

"D. Staples" wrote:

Stratification helps,

I believe the word you want is 'scarification'.

No, it's stratification. That means to subject a seed to a cold
period before it germinates. If you weren't so busy trying to prove
people wrong you'd know this.
--
Ann, gardening in Zone 6a
South of Boston, Massachusetts
e-mail address is not checked
******************************

In article ,
Ann wrote:

Sheldon expounded:

"D. Staples" wrote:

Stratification helps,

I believe the word you want is 'scarification'.

No, it's stratification. That means to subject a seed to a cold
period before it germinates. If you weren't so busy trying to prove
people wrong you'd know this.

I'd just plant a few in the ground in a straight line. Transplant if
any come up. Tell the folks on the property that these trees offer
valuable woods in time and that once folks used the seed for a tasty
brittle. Which is still worth seeking out.

Forget peanut brittle go Black Walnut if we must jeopardize our old
fillings. I do!

Bill

Don't tell anybody about this place. He was a lab tech who made custom
bikes and ended up in candy. An annual pilgrimage twice a year for us.

http://www.merchantcircle.com/busine...porated.856-46
7-1661

--

S Jersey USA Zone 5 Shade

This article is posted under fair use rules in accordance with
Title 17 U.S.C. Section 107, and is strictly for the educational
and informative purposes. This material is distributed without profit.

http://www.ocutech.com/ High tech Vison aid

On Sep 16, 6:03?pm, Ann wrote:
Sheldon expounded:

"D. Staples" wrote:

Stratification helps,

I believe the word you want is 'scarification'.

No, it's stratification. That means to subject a seed to a cold
period before it germinates. If you weren't so busy trying to prove
people wrong you'd know this.

With black walnut it's important to scarify (really just removing the
husks), then plant the seeds, the natural exposure to winter while in
the ground is all the stratification that's necessary, come spring
they'll already be germinating... otherwise come spring all you'll
have is cold walnuts in the fridge of which most when planted then
will not germinate because they haven't been scarified, and then those
really should be planted in the fall, so you lose a year. All things
equal, without scarification most walnut seeds do not germinate (in
nature left to their own devices most do not germinate), most that
have been scarified do germinate. There is no need to artificially
stratify black walnut but it's important to scarify. What is most
important is to protect newly planted seed from critters otherwise
whatever you do is all for nought, squirrels will probably dig up
90pct. I would plant black walnut in individual pots that are well
protected from critters (a cold frame is good). Protect pots until
they can be field planted as two year old seedlings, and then they'll
still neeed protection from deer and other critters. You obviously
didn't read the OP carefully... my recommendation is more advantageous

Sheldon expounded:

On Sep 16, 6:03?pm, Ann wrote:
Sheldon expounded:

"D. Staples" wrote:

Stratification helps,

I believe the word you want is 'scarification'.

No, it's stratification. That means to subject a seed to a cold
period before it germinates. If you weren't so busy trying to prove
people wrong you'd know this.

With black walnut it's important to scarify (really just removing the
husks), then plant the seeds, the natural exposure to winter while in
the ground is all the stratification that's necessary, come spring
they'll already be germinating... otherwise come spring all you'll
have is cold walnuts in the fridge of which most when planted then
will not germinate because they haven't been scarified, and then those
really should be planted in the fall, so you lose a year. All things
equal, without scarification most walnut seeds do not germinate (in
nature left to their own devices most do not germinate), most that
have been scarified do germinate. There is no need to artificially
stratify black walnut but it's important to scarify. What is most
important is to protect newly planted seed from critters otherwise
whatever you do is all for nought, squirrels will probably dig up
90pct. I would plant black walnut in individual pots that are well
protected from critters (a cold frame is good). Protect pots until
they can be field planted as two year old seedlings, and then they'll
still neeed protection from deer and other critters. You obviously
didn't read the OP carefully... my recommendation is more advantageous


Delusions of grandeur cloud your mind yet again, Sheldon.

I take care of a farm in a nearby town that has a 1/2 mile driveway
lined with black walnuts. There is no 'scarification' of any seeds,
and they come up all over the place - after they've spent the winter
outside where the squirrels decide to plant them.
--
Ann, gardening in Zone 6a
South of Boston, Massachusetts
e-mail address is not checked
******************************

"Sheldon" wrote in message
oups.com...
On Sep 16, 6:03?pm, Ann wrote:
Sheldon expounded:

"D. Staples" wrote:

Stratification helps,

I believe the word you want is 'scarification'.

No, it's stratification. That means to subject a seed to a cold
period before it germinates. If you weren't so busy trying to prove
people wrong you'd know this.

With black walnut it's important to scarify (really just removing the
husks), then plant the seeds, the natural exposure to winter while in
the ground is all the stratification that's necessary, come spring
they'll already be germinating... otherwise come spring all you'll
have is cold walnuts in the fridge of which most when planted then
will not germinate because they haven't been scarified, and then those
really should be planted in the fall, so you lose a year. All things
equal, without scarification most walnut seeds do not germinate (in
nature left to their own devices most do not germinate), most that
have been scarified do germinate. There is no need to artificially
stratify black walnut but it's important to scarify. What is most
important is to protect newly planted seed from critters otherwise
whatever you do is all for nought, squirrels will probably dig up
90pct. I would plant black walnut in individual pots that are well
protected from critters (a cold frame is good). Protect pots until
they can be field planted as two year old seedlings, and then they'll
still neeed protection from deer and other critters. You obviously
didn't read the OP carefully... my recommendation is more advantageous



While scarifying is an alternative, it is not necessary, any more than
stratification. It may influence germination, but in nature, it doesn't
happen that much, scarification that is. Nursery's stratify black walnut,
but seldom scarify, just as they stratify other seed. Particularly in
warmer climates.

Al wrote in news:TzfHi.2128$603.952@trndny02:



I have a Black Walnut Tree that is growing wild in my yard. The tree
has seed/nut on it. I would like to use the nuts to grow other Black
Walnut trees on my property. How do I do this?

Al


Be aware that Black Walnut is not condusive to other plants grown near it.
That means no vegetable garden and most flowering plants. If you want
Black Walnut, fine, but don't expect anything else to grow around it. Look
up: juglone or
http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/1000/1148.html

On Sep 16, 4:23 pm, FragileWarrior
wrote:

Be aware that Black Walnut is not condusive to other plants grown near it.
That means no vegetable garden and most flowering plants. If you want
Black Walnut, fine, but don't expect anything else to grow around it. Look
up: juglone orhttp://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/1000/1148.html


I lived in a house that had one Black Walnut and a couple of English
Walnut trees. You're right - absolutely nothing would grow under the
Black Walnut. We ended up pouring a nice patio around it. The
English Walnuts weren't much better, but I did manage to have a nice
garden of Calla Lilies under one of them. I was certain to try to
keep any falling leaves from the tree, gathered and raked up however!

Myrl Jeffcoat
http://www.myrljeffcoat.com

Myrl wrote in
ups.com:

On Sep 16, 4:23 pm, FragileWarrior
wrote:

Be aware that Black Walnut is not condusive to other
plants grown near it. That means no vegetable garden and
most flowering plants. If you want Black Walnut, fine,
but don't expect anything else to grow around it. Look
up: juglone
orhttp://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/1000/1148.html


I lived in a house that had one Black Walnut and a couple
of English Walnut trees. You're right - absolutely nothing
would grow under the Black Walnut. We ended up pouring a
nice patio around it. The English Walnuts weren't much
better, but I did manage to have a nice garden of Calla
Lilies under one of them. I was certain to try to keep any
falling leaves from the tree, gathered and raked up
however!

i have a Chinese dogwood as understory to my bigger black
walnut & it's doing very well. the walnut is around 40 years,
& the dogwood is about 30. they are less than 3' apart.
OTOH, there used to be an apple tree near the walnut & as the
crown began to overhang the apple's area, it died back. i
recently cut it down. and the blueberries are also dying back,
but that could be because they're in pretty heavy shade from
the sugar maples, as well as the effects of juglone.
the younger black walnut is in my 'winter' pasture & i *wish*
it would kill the weeds that grow under it

lee

A very good book for you to get is this:
BTW I have a copy and I could fax you the pages on walnuts if you send me
your fax number to my email address.

"Seeds of woody plants in the United States"
Forest Service Handbook No. 450 1989
883 Pages

--
Sincerely,
John A. Keslick, Jr.
Consulting Arborist
http://home.ccil.org/~treeman
and www.treedictionary.com
Beware of so-called tree experts who do not understand tree biology.
Storms, fires, floods, earthquakes, and volcanic eruptions keep reminding us
that we are not the boss.

"Al" wrote in message
news:TzfHi.2128$603.952@trndny02...


I have a Black Walnut Tree that is growing wild in my yard. The tree has
seed/nut on it. I would like to use the nuts to grow other Black Walnut
trees on my property. How do I do this?

Al

symplastless wrote:
A very good book for you to get is this:
BTW I have a copy and I could fax you the pages on walnuts if you send me
your fax number to my email address.

Why not scan and E-mail? Much gentler on the ecology.

And please place your reply at the bottom! It's kinder that way.
'

--
john mcwilliams

Who am I emailing the pages too?
Is pdf ok? Or jpeg?

--
Sincerely,
John A. Keslick, Jr.
Consulting Arborist
http://home.ccil.org/~treeman
and www.treedictionary.com
Beware of so-called tree experts who do not understand tree biology.
Storms, fires, floods, earthquakes, and volcanic eruptions keep reminding us
that we are not the boss.


"John McWilliams" wrote in message
. ..
symplastless wrote:
A very good book for you to get is this:
BTW I have a copy and I could fax you the pages on walnuts if you send me
your fax number to my email address.

Why not scan and E-mail? Much gentler on the ecology.

And please place your reply at the bottom! It's kinder that way.
'

--
john mcwilliams

symplastless wrote:
Who am I emailing the pages too?
Is pdf ok? Or jpeg?

To whomever you offered to mail them to.

But placing your reply at the top makes it poor reading for many,
difficult to reply to for some.

--
john mcwilliams