A lot of us that read and post in this newsgroup grow tomatoes and a lot
of us start our own seeds. I thought that I would start a discussion on
how you start and grow your own tomatoes.

I grow a lot of varieties that are not available as plants from the
local places that carry tomato plants. I use a couple of different
methods to start them. I like the "bio-dome houses" method that vendors
like Park Seeds sell. I also use the "peat pellets" (like the Jiffy-7)
for the larger plants. When I start seeds inside (in March) I place the
planter on "seeding heat pads". They really help in getting the seeds
started faster and result in a much higher germination rate than non
heated methods. They also help the plants grow much faster.

After the seed are up about a week they are watered with a 20-20-20
plant food solution mixed at 1/4 teaspoon per gallon of water. I
generally don't put the tomato plants out in the garden until (at least)
the middle of May. Before that I put them out on the porch during the
day (in the shade) to get them accustomed to the weather.

How do you start your tomatoes?
--
Bill R. (Ohio Valley, U.S.A)

Gardening for over 40 years

To see pictures from my garden visit http://members.iglou.com/brosen

Digital Camera - Pentax *ist DL

Remove NO_WEEDS_ in e-mail address to reply by e-mail

"Bill R" wrote in message
...
A lot of us that read and post in this newsgroup grow tomatoes and a lot of
us start our own seeds. I thought that I would start a discussion on how
you start and grow your own tomatoes.

I grow a lot of varieties that are not available as plants from the local
places that carry tomato plants. I use a couple of different methods to
start them. I like the "bio-dome houses" method that vendors like Park
Seeds sell. I also use the "peat pellets" (like the Jiffy-7) for the
larger plants. When I start seeds inside (in March) I place the planter
on "seeding heat pads". They really help in getting the seeds started
faster and result in a much higher germination rate than non heated
methods. They also help the plants grow much faster.

After the seed are up about a week they are watered with a 20-20-20 plant
food solution mixed at 1/4 teaspoon per gallon of water. I generally
don't put the tomato plants out in the garden until (at least) the middle
of May. Before that I put them out on the porch during the day (in the
shade) to get them accustomed to the weather.

How do you start your tomatoes?


I buy sheets of six-packs (the kind in which nurseries sell plants). A sheet
breaks apart into six 6-packs. Under a dollar for the whole sheet. I use
Miracle-Gro potting soil. I put the 6-packs in trays, on top of gravel with
heating cables underneath. When the plants are 2-3" tall, I shut off the
bottom heat. The potting soil apparently has just enough nutrients that I
don't fertilize at all. I bring them outdoors at about the same time you do.

Steve wrote:

On Mon, 24 Mar 2008 11:29:54 -0500, Charlie wrote:


I also sprinkle the the flats with cinnamon after planting, to
prevent damping off.


I had never heard of this, Charlie. A quick google verified the
efficacy.
Thanks!

I have heard of using cinnamon but I have never tried it. I don't have
a problem with tomatoes damping off but I have had a problem when
starting some annuals from seeds. I'll give it a try. Thanks Charlie!
--
Bill R. (Ohio Valley, U.S.A)

Gardening for over 40 years

To see pictures from my garden visit http://members.iglou.com/brosen

Digital Camera - Pentax *ist DL

Remove NO_WEEDS_ in e-mail address to reply by e-mail

I've used cinnamon for years to curtail damping off fungus, works like a
charm. I also sprinkle it on the bark my orchids are growing in and have no
problem with fungus. Have those pesky little gnats in your potted plants?
Sprinkle cinnamon on the surface soil and they are gone in seconds never to
return......Cinnamon is a good thing!

Val

"Val" wrote in message
...
I've used cinnamon for years to curtail damping off fungus, works like a
charm. I also sprinkle it on the bark my orchids are growing in and have
no problem with fungus. Have those pesky little gnats in your potted
plants? Sprinkle cinnamon on the surface soil and they are gone in seconds
never to return......Cinnamon is a good thing!

Val



I hear you can use it on food, too.

Bill R wrote:
A lot of us that read and post in this newsgroup grow tomatoes and a lot
of us start our own seeds. I thought that I would start a discussion on
how you start and grow your own tomatoes.

I grow a lot of varieties that are not available as plants from the
local places that carry tomato plants. I use a couple of different
methods to start them. I like the "bio-dome houses" method that vendors
like Park Seeds sell. I also use the "peat pellets" (like the Jiffy-7)
for the larger plants. When I start seeds inside (in March) I place the
planter on "seeding heat pads". They really help in getting the seeds
started faster and result in a much higher germination rate than non
heated methods. They also help the plants grow much faster.

After the seed are up about a week they are watered with a 20-20-20
plant food solution mixed at 1/4 teaspoon per gallon of water. I
generally don't put the tomato plants out in the garden until (at least)
the middle of May. Before that I put them out on the porch during the
day (in the shade) to get them accustomed to the weather.

How do you start your tomatoes?

I put seed in a small flat of plastic in damp potting soil and seal with
Saran wrap. They start rapidly kept on top of the hot water heater.
When emerged I transplant into peat pots and put in a window.

"JoeSpareBedroom" wrote in message
...
"Val" wrote in message
...
I've used cinnamon for years to curtail damping off fungus, works like a
charm. I also sprinkle it on the bark my orchids are growing in and have
no problem with fungus. Have those pesky little gnats in your potted
plants? Sprinkle cinnamon on the surface soil and they are gone in
seconds never to return......Cinnamon is a good thing!

Val



I hear you can use it on food, too.
Wadda concept!......must Google.
;-
Val

On Mar 24, 9:26*am, Bill R wrote:
A lot of us that read and post in this newsgroup grow tomatoes and a lot
of us start our own seeds. *I thought that I would start a discussion on
how you start and grow your own tomatoes.

I grow a lot of varieties that are not available as plants from the
local places that carry tomato plants. *I use a couple of different
methods to start them. *I like the "bio-dome houses" method that vendors
like Park Seeds sell. *I also use the "peat pellets" (like the Jiffy-7)
for the larger plants. *When I start seeds inside (in March) I place the
planter on "seeding heat pads". They really help in getting the seeds
started faster and result in a much higher germination rate than non
heated methods. *They also help the plants grow much faster.

After the seed are up about a week they are watered with a 20-20-20
plant food solution mixed at 1/4 teaspoon per gallon of water. *I
generally don't put the tomato plants out in the garden until (at least)
the middle of May. *Before that I put them out on the porch during the
day (in the shade) to get them accustomed to the weather.

I use those 'clam shells' from the produce aisle. I put a paper towel
on the bottom so the soil doesn't all wash out, fill them with seed
starting mix and put them on the mat. I do the midseason varieties
first, in late February, then start the early varieties later. Each
clamshell gets a label. Next year, I plan to put the number of seeds
and date planted as well as the variety name. When they have their
second set of leaves, I transplant them into individual containers,
mostly 3-4". This year I'm also using 1 litre cardboard cream
cartons. They're free, they're tall so roots can grow down further,
and they pack together tightly. I cut the top off, fill it with a
container/vermiculite soil mix and transplant in the seedling, buried
up to its little neck to encourage root development. Usually I use a
fish emulsion fertilizer, but I had trouble finding it this year. I
bought one of those seedling starter blue fertilizer mixes. The NPK
is 10-52-10. I'm not sure I like it. I think it should have more
nitrogen.

They are under lights for now. I need to figure out a way to raise
the trays because they should be closer to the lights and I can't
adjust the shelves. As soon as the daytime temperature gets to be
about 10C, I will start putting the seedlings outside and taking them
in at night. I have a planter with a frame overtop with a rollout
cover of plastic sheeting. I am planning to try insulating the cover
with bubble wrap, and putting containers of water around the edge of
the planter as a heat source. I'll start leaving them out overnight,
covered, after a couple of weeks if the night time temperatures are
high enough. Then I'll do my transplants after everything has hardened
off, probably in late May or early June unless the plants are dwarves
or determinate varieties that do well in containers which will be
planted earlier. If we get snow in June or something ridiculous like
that, I can still bring them indoors. Kosy Kotes/walls of water go
around the ones planted in the ground as long as they fit inside. And
if they're in the ground, I put them right next to the house to keep
them warmer. The night time temperature is usually above 15C only
during July, and not reliably, which really affects growth and
production.
Dora
Zone 3a

On Mar 24, 1:42*pm, Charlie wrote:
On Mon, 24 Mar 2008 12:25:58 -0700 (PDT), bungadora
wrote:

I use those 'clam shells' from the produce aisle. I put a paper towel
on the bottom so the soil doesn't all wash out, fill them with seed
starting mix and put them on the mat. *

Great idea!

They are under lights for now. *I need to figure out a way to raise
the trays because they should be closer to the lights and I can't
adjust the shelves.

Same here. *What I have been doing is setting the seedling flats, or
whatever container, on top of upside down empty flats. *For flats I use
cheap plastic cat litter trays with 1/8 inch hole drilled in the bottom
and stack them in another that isn't drilled, to catch drainage and
also to water from the bottom.

Thanks. After thinking about it a bit I put a plastic tub of Christmas
decorations under the drain trays. That should do them for a week or
two.Then I'll have to find something about 4 inches tall.

As soon as the daytime temperature gets to be
about 10C, I will start putting the seedlings outside and taking them
in at night. I have a planter with a frame overtop with a rollout
cover of plastic sheeting. I am planning to try insulating the cover
with bubble wrap, and putting containers of water around the edge of
the planter as a heat source.

Another good idea, the bubble wrap and water containers.

I think it is really important to get them into full natural light
conditions as soon as possible, even if it is a little cool. In fact,
while they are adjusting to natural light, it being a little cool is
probably an asset. The lights only get them so far, and then they need
more.

I'll start leaving them out overnight,
covered, after a couple of weeks if the night time temperatures are
high enough. Then I'll do my transplants after everything has hardened
off, probably in late May or early June unless the plants are dwarves
or determinate varieties that do well in containers which will be
planted earlier. *If we get snow in June or something ridiculous like
that, I can still bring them indoors. Kosy Kotes/walls of water go
around the ones planted in the ground as long as they fit inside. *And
if they're in the ground, I put them right next to the house to keep
them warmer. The night time temperature is usually above 15C only
during July, and not reliably, which really affects growth and
production.
Dora
Zone 3a

Wow, it's started, that hunger for a real tomato.
Well, I can't be too impatient. Most of the time they don't ripen
until September. I've been told pruning makes a difference, so I'm
going to be a bit more rigorous about that this year. I've also been
told to cut back on the watering & let them dry out once they are in
the fruit production stage (August). It's supposed to make them
sweeter. We'll see.
Dora

In article
,
bungadora wrote:

They are under lights for now. I need to figure out a way to raise
the trays because they should be closer to the lights and I can't
adjust the shelves.

My grow lights are 24" florescent. Their housing is held up by chains
(like for suspended lamps, available at a hardware store) on either end
which are attached to the ceiling with cup hooks. As the plants grow, I
just move the chain up another link.
--

Billy

Impeach Pelosi, Bush & Cheney to the Hague
http://angryarab.blogspot.com/
http://rachelcorriefoundation.org/

"Billy" wrote in message
...
In article
,
bungadora wrote:

They are under lights for now. I need to figure out a way to raise
the trays because they should be closer to the lights and I can't
adjust the shelves.

My grow lights are 24" florescent. Their housing is held up by chains

Kinky.

In article ,
"JoeSpareBedroom" wrote:

"Billy" wrote in message
...
In article
,
bungadora wrote:

They are under lights for now. I need to figure out a way to raise
the trays because they should be closer to the lights and I can't
adjust the shelves.

My grow lights are 24" florescent. Their housing is held up by chains

Kinky.

Hey, if you got it, flaunt it.
--

Billy

Impeach Pelosi, Bush & Cheney to the Hague
http://angryarab.blogspot.com/
http://rachelcorriefoundation.org/

I start tomatoes in clean yogurt cups, the kind with a plastic
lid. I use Supersoil. Put the lid on and set them on top of the
refrig. where it is nice and warm. When germinated, they go
onto the bookcase top in the south bedroom window where it
is nice and sunny. The cups are set in an old photographic
developing tray (yard sale: 25 cents)
When large enough plants are transplanted into 4 inch pots
which are set on trays (old cafeteria trays, yard sale 10 cents)
When its warm enough outside trays are carried out and put
in the sun on the patio table.
When nights are warm, they stay out under the patio roof in
case of a late frost.
They are just about ready to be planted out.
Emilie
NorCal

In article
,
mleblanca wrote:

I start tomatoes in clean yogurt cups, the kind with a plastic
lid. I use Supersoil. Put the lid on and set them on top of the
refrig. where it is nice and warm. When germinated, they go
onto the bookcase top in the south bedroom window where it
is nice and sunny. The cups are set in an old photographic
developing tray (yard sale: 25 cents)
When large enough plants are transplanted into 4 inch pots
which are set on trays (old cafeteria trays, yard sale 10 cents)
When its warm enough outside trays are carried out and put
in the sun on the patio table.
When nights are warm, they stay out under the patio roof in
case of a late frost.
They are just about ready to be planted out.
Emilie
NorCal

Unfortunately, I still got my cabbage, peas, lettuce, and onions under
the lights (three weeks and counting). Hopefully, come April I'll get my
warm weather plants started. The soil doesn't normally get up to seventy
until mid-May but I'll probably start month old plants (4 corn, 3
squash, 3 cukes, 10 tomatoes, 3 melons, 10 beans, and 3 bitter melons)
with clear plastic around the first of May. Then it will be more
lettuce, herbs, corn, and beans.

My green manure, pulses, seems to be doing well, and I've got my fingers
crossed.

I'm setting up two chairs and a table in the shade of the bamboo, so
that we can watch the evening.
--

Billy

Impeach Pelosi, Bush & Cheney to the Hague
http://angryarab.blogspot.com/
http://rachelcorriefoundation.org/

Bill R said:

A lot of us that read and post in this newsgroup grow tomatoes and a
lot of us start our own seeds. I thought that I would start a
discussion on how you start and grow your own tomatoes.

I start tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants in jiffy-9 pellets. I put the
pellets in old deli/take-out trays that have clear plastic lids and get
them hydrated the day before I plant. These are placed on a heat
mat until the majority of pellets in a container have germinated.

I plant two seeds per pellet, and at least twice as many pellets as I
need for planting out to the garden, sometimes more if the seed is
older or I've noticed poor germination in the past. This allows me
to select the best seedlings when I pot them up for phase 2. (It's
not usually a hard choice to pick one over another.)

The pellets are marked with a number (matched to a list I make
each year) to indicate variety (12 different tomatoes, 6 peppers,
and 3 or 4 eggplants, in recent years). The marker is a wooden
toothpick with a little numbered flag on it.

The plants are transplanted into 32oz yogurt tubs when they have
at least two true leaves. (These have holes cut in the bottom for
drainage and are numbered on the side with a Sharpie.) Most of
these are reused from year-to-year after washing in a mild bleach
solution.

Light is supplied by a high output metal-halide fixture suspended
on pullies. The plants are surrounded by a temporary 'light box'
made with mylar sheets on cardboard with a couple of fans set
up to move the air through.

For the last few years I've been ordering transplant mix from
Gardener's Supply company as what I've been able to get locally
is very mixed in quality and often contains styrofoam pellets (!?!)
and other weird ingredients. I add a tiny bit of Osmocote to the
transplant mix and water at least once with PHC for Seedlings
(A Gardener's Supply Company product) added. (Outdoors it's
compost, and/or alfalfa plus Tomato Tone as fertilizers along
with a kelp drench at transplant and foliar sprays during the
growing season.)

The tomatoes are taken outside by early-mid May (the peppers
and eggplants stay inside under the lights for a extra week or so).

All the plants go out into dappled shade (to start with) and are
gradually exposed to more direct sunlight. At night, they are
either put inside the garage or tucked up under the overhang
of the house. After a week or so of that (with an eye to the
weather) the tomatoes get planted and the peppers and
eggplants go outside for the same routine.

I haven't finalized my planting list for this year. Should be
getting around to that soon. I don't start any plants until the
second week of April. They sprout very quickly and grow on
quickly once they are in the yogurt tubs that I would be in
trouble if I started earlier.

These days, the only other plants I start indoors are my
Benary's Giant Zinnias, which I plants in recycled 4- or 6-pack
cells (which fit nicely, one pair in each deli tray) at a window
with supplementary flourescent lighting. (Which is where
my orchid spends the winter.)

--
Pat in Plymouth MI ('someplace.net' is comcast)

Any technology distinguishable from magic is insufficiently advanced.
(attributed to Don Marti)