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#1
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Tomato plant stalks broken
The weight got to the stalks. I thought I had them secured but two major
branches with a lot of my best fruit bent over and are broken but not broken through. I tied them up and straightened them out as the leaves looked pretty perky still. Any chance they'll make it or should I just cut them off? I lost 8 good sized fruit from another branch that was hanging only by a thread. Can they be made to ripen possibly? I sure beat the BER problem. It just took way more calcium than I ever thought necessary. In the last 2 weeks I only lost 3 to BER after heavy calcium supplements. |
#2
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Tomato plant stalks broken
In article ,
"Paul M. Cook" wrote: I sure beat the BER problem. It just took way more calcium than I ever thought necessary. In the last 2 weeks I only lost 3 to BER after heavy calcium supplements. And you don't remember anyone telling you that BER happened at the beginning of production and then went away? You are such an idiot. Leave the branches alone. This is what tomato plants do. -- - Billy "Fascism should more properly be called corporatism because it is the merger of state and corporate power." - Benito Mussolini. http://www.democracynow.org/2010/7/2/maude http://www.democracynow.org/2010/6/2...al_crime_scene |
#3
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Tomato plant stalks broken
"Billy" wrote in message ... In article , "Paul M. Cook" wrote: I sure beat the BER problem. It just took way more calcium than I ever thought necessary. In the last 2 weeks I only lost 3 to BER after heavy calcium supplements. And you don't remember anyone telling you that BER happened at the beginning of production and then went away? You are such an idiot. Oh, pardon me. I had this mistaken as a gardening newsgroup. I do recall reading that elsewhere but here the consensus was a water issue which it in fact was not because that remains the same. Had I listened to you I'd still be battling BER. And I think you're a jackass. So? Leave the branches alone. This is what tomato plants do. Not if I have anything to say about it. Paul |
#4
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Tomato plant stalks broken
On 7/15/2010 1:54 AM, Paul M. Cook wrote:
wrote in message ... In , "Paul M. wrote: I sure beat the BER problem. It just took way more calcium than I ever thought necessary. In the last 2 weeks I only lost 3 to BER after heavy calcium supplements. And you don't remember anyone telling you that BER happened at the beginning of production and then went away? You are such an idiot. Oh, pardon me. I had this mistaken as a gardening newsgroup. I do recall reading that elsewhere but here the consensus was a water issue which it in fact was not because that remains the same. Had I listened to you I'd still be battling BER. And I think you're a jackass. So? Leave the branches alone. This is what tomato plants do. Not if I have anything to say about it. Paul I've had more concise descriptions of Billy Once tomatoes get going, they are like weeds, and it takes a lot to eradicate them. Wouldn't worry if branches were cut or broken. Once I got onto calcium and add a handful of limestone to my pots each season, BER has not come back. |
#5
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Tomato plant stalks broken
"Frank" wrote in message ... On 7/15/2010 1:54 AM, Paul M. Cook wrote: wrote in message ... In , "Paul M. wrote: I sure beat the BER problem. It just took way more calcium than I ever thought necessary. In the last 2 weeks I only lost 3 to BER after heavy calcium supplements. And you don't remember anyone telling you that BER happened at the beginning of production and then went away? You are such an idiot. Oh, pardon me. I had this mistaken as a gardening newsgroup. I do recall reading that elsewhere but here the consensus was a water issue which it in fact was not because that remains the same. Had I listened to you I'd still be battling BER. And I think you're a jackass. So? Leave the branches alone. This is what tomato plants do. Not if I have anything to say about it. Paul I've had more concise descriptions of Billy Once tomatoes get going, they are like weeds, and it takes a lot to eradicate them. Wouldn't worry if branches were cut or broken. Once I got onto calcium and add a handful of limestone to my pots each season, BER has not come back. It took way more than I would have guessed but it finally did the trick. I was losing 3-4 every day for a while. I may try pruning next year to keep the branch weight down. So far I have a very large number of not so big tomatoes. Would like that to be the reverse. Paul |
#6
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Tomato plant stalks broken
On 7/15/2010 12:33 PM, Paul M. Cook wrote:
wrote in message ... On 7/15/2010 1:54 AM, Paul M. Cook wrote: wrote in message ... In , "Paul M. wrote: I sure beat the BER problem. It just took way more calcium than I ever thought necessary. In the last 2 weeks I only lost 3 to BER after heavy calcium supplements. And you don't remember anyone telling you that BER happened at the beginning of production and then went away? You are such an idiot. Oh, pardon me. I had this mistaken as a gardening newsgroup. I do recall reading that elsewhere but here the consensus was a water issue which it in fact was not because that remains the same. Had I listened to you I'd still be battling BER. And I think you're a jackass. So? Leave the branches alone. This is what tomato plants do. Not if I have anything to say about it. Paul I've had more concise descriptions of Billy Once tomatoes get going, they are like weeds, and it takes a lot to eradicate them. Wouldn't worry if branches were cut or broken. Once I got onto calcium and add a handful of limestone to my pots each season, BER has not come back. It took way more than I would have guessed but it finally did the trick. I was losing 3-4 every day for a while. I may try pruning next year to keep the branch weight down. So far I have a very large number of not so big tomatoes. Would like that to be the reverse. Paul I have mine in cages growing in pots and make sure they stay there. I prune some suckers. I have one, under deck, not getting a lot of sun, that is quite leggy and I've actually topped it a couple of times. First ripe tomato, last week, weighted a pound and a half. With 7 plants, wife and I will get all we need until around mid October although I'm a little concerned that excessive heat may keep crop down. |
#7
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Tomato plant stalks broken
"balvenieman" wrote in message m... "Paul M. Cook" wrote: "Frank" wrote in message ... Once tomatoes get going, they are like weeds, and it takes a lot to eradicate them. Wouldn't worry if branches were cut or broken. Once I got onto calcium and add a handful of limestone to my pots each season, BER has not come back. It took way more than I would have guessed but it finally did the trick. I was losing 3-4 every day for a while. I may try pruning next year to keep the branch weight down. So far I have a very large number of not so big tomatoes. Would like that to be the reverse. Most tomatoes, except for the "patio" tomatoes that have a fairly thrifty habit and can even be pruned to grow as a standard, require some sort of support. You can influence the directions of growth and, some say, the number of fruit by early pruning but, as a rule, I don't bother with it. I just cage the plants in fence wire and let them rip. Small fruit can be a sign of over-bearing, commonplace for tomatoes and in which case the fruit may be thinned very early in its development (if you wait too late, say until they're "frying" size, the remaining fruit isn't likely to get any bigger), and/or of root crowding, which is particularly troublesome for container-grown plants. I used cages and trained the vines as best I could. But I did not tie off the heavy clusters and they broke higher up the vine. All the break points were my biggest clusters. Next time I'll tie off each cluster individually. I may just get rid of the smallest ones at this point and let the plant put its energy into the largest fruit. Limestone may not be your best source of calcium because of its effect on pH. Gypsum adds calcium without raising pH. Unless you have serious nutrient imbalances to correct you can eliminate or, at the very least, seriously mitigate future calcium deficiencies by incorporating bone meal, a slow-release source of phosphate and calcium, into your admixture in whatever quantity is required to provide sufficient phosphate. Excesses of certain micro-nutrients -- magnesium, for example -- can interfere with plants' ability to acquire and/or to transport Ca. Very interesting. Since my tomatoes are next to my peppers I was watering them with the same magnesium rich fertilizer I used for the peppers. I did stop doing this and switched the tomatoes to fish emulsion only about the time the BER showed signs of abating. You may have found the missing link. Paul |
#8
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Tomato plant stalks broken
In article ,
"Paul M. Cook" wrote: "balvenieman" wrote in message m... "Paul M. Cook" wrote: "Frank" wrote in message ... Once tomatoes get going, they are like weeds, and it takes a lot to eradicate them. Wouldn't worry if branches were cut or broken. Once I got onto calcium and add a handful of limestone to my pots each season, BER has not come back. It took way more than I would have guessed but it finally did the trick. I was losing 3-4 every day for a while. I may try pruning next year to keep the branch weight down. So far I have a very large number of not so big tomatoes. Would like that to be the reverse. Most tomatoes, except for the "patio" tomatoes that have a fairly thrifty habit and can even be pruned to grow as a standard, require some sort of support. You can influence the directions of growth and, some say, the number of fruit by early pruning but, as a rule, I don't bother with it. I just cage the plants in fence wire and let them rip. Small fruit can be a sign of over-bearing, commonplace for tomatoes and in which case the fruit may be thinned very early in its development (if you wait too late, say until they're "frying" size, the remaining fruit isn't likely to get any bigger), and/or of root crowding, which is particularly troublesome for container-grown plants. I used cages and trained the vines as best I could. But I did not tie off the heavy clusters and they broke higher up the vine. All the break points were my biggest clusters. Next time I'll tie off each cluster individually. I may just get rid of the smallest ones at this point and let the plant put its energy into the largest fruit. Limestone may not be your best source of calcium because of its effect on pH. Gypsum adds calcium without raising pH. Unless you have serious nutrient imbalances to correct you can eliminate or, at the very least, seriously mitigate future calcium deficiencies by incorporating bone meal, a slow-release source of phosphate and calcium, into your admixture in whatever quantity is required to provide sufficient phosphate. Excesses of certain micro-nutrients -- magnesium, for example -- can interfere with plants' ability to acquire and/or to transport Ca. Very interesting. Since my tomatoes are next to my peppers I was watering them with the same magnesium rich fertilizer I used for the peppers. I did stop doing this and switched the tomatoes to fish emulsion only about the time the BER showed signs of abating. You may have found the missing link. Paul Last I looked farmers never tied up tomato plants. They were hand picked every day till exhausted but then a machine came and the plant was taken whole. Those truck farms are now homes after first growing soybeans in a transition time. Guess if you want to tie or support plants the vineyards could offer a template but they deal with hardwood. So my question is what is wrong with losing some tomatoes to a turtle or some other varmint. Esthetics in the garden I appreciate but I have to look at the energy required. Perhaps younger folks in small area like to garden for different reasons ? Leveller Bill -- Bill S. Jersey USA zone 5 shade garden What use one more wake up call? |
#9
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Tomato plant stalks broken
"Bill who putters" wrote in message ... In article , "Paul M. Cook" wrote: "balvenieman" wrote in message m... "Paul M. Cook" wrote: "Frank" wrote in message ... Once tomatoes get going, they are like weeds, and it takes a lot to eradicate them. Wouldn't worry if branches were cut or broken. Once I got onto calcium and add a handful of limestone to my pots each season, BER has not come back. It took way more than I would have guessed but it finally did the trick. I was losing 3-4 every day for a while. I may try pruning next year to keep the branch weight down. So far I have a very large number of not so big tomatoes. Would like that to be the reverse. Most tomatoes, except for the "patio" tomatoes that have a fairly thrifty habit and can even be pruned to grow as a standard, require some sort of support. You can influence the directions of growth and, some say, the number of fruit by early pruning but, as a rule, I don't bother with it. I just cage the plants in fence wire and let them rip. Small fruit can be a sign of over-bearing, commonplace for tomatoes and in which case the fruit may be thinned very early in its development (if you wait too late, say until they're "frying" size, the remaining fruit isn't likely to get any bigger), and/or of root crowding, which is particularly troublesome for container-grown plants. I used cages and trained the vines as best I could. But I did not tie off the heavy clusters and they broke higher up the vine. All the break points were my biggest clusters. Next time I'll tie off each cluster individually. I may just get rid of the smallest ones at this point and let the plant put its energy into the largest fruit. Limestone may not be your best source of calcium because of its effect on pH. Gypsum adds calcium without raising pH. Unless you have serious nutrient imbalances to correct you can eliminate or, at the very least, seriously mitigate future calcium deficiencies by incorporating bone meal, a slow-release source of phosphate and calcium, into your admixture in whatever quantity is required to provide sufficient phosphate. Excesses of certain micro-nutrients -- magnesium, for example -- can interfere with plants' ability to acquire and/or to transport Ca. Very interesting. Since my tomatoes are next to my peppers I was watering them with the same magnesium rich fertilizer I used for the peppers. I did stop doing this and switched the tomatoes to fish emulsion only about the time the BER showed signs of abating. You may have found the missing link. Paul Last I looked farmers never tied up tomato plants. They were hand picked every day till exhausted but then a machine came and the plant was taken whole. Those truck farms are now homes after first growing soybeans in a transition time. Guess if you want to tie or support plants the vineyards could offer a template but they deal with hardwood. So my question is what is wrong with losing some tomatoes to a turtle or some other varmint. Esthetics in the garden I appreciate but I have to look at the energy required. Perhaps younger folks in small area like to garden for different reasons ? I am doing it for the shear beauty of all those plants bearing brilliantly colored fruits. I also love the plethora of insects that it attracts such as bees, June bugs, dragon flies, butterflies, praying mantii etc. My cats love the foliage and like to lie beside the pots under the shade. It's just a pleasant hobby that I get to enjoy on several levels. Paul |
#10
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Tomato plant stalks broken
In article ,
balvenieman wrote: Excesses of certain micro-nutrients -- magnesium, for example -- can interfere with plants' ability to acquire and/or to transport Ca. Can you give a citation for this? A deficiency of magnesium certainly will impair calcium transport by the plant, but an excess? -- - Billy "Fascism should more properly be called corporatism because it is the merger of state and corporate power." - Benito Mussolini. http://www.democracynow.org/2010/7/2/maude http://www.democracynow.org/2010/6/2...al_crime_scene |
#11
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Tomato plant stalks broken
Billy wrote:
In article , "Paul M. Cook" wrote: I sure beat the BER problem. It just took way more calcium than I ever thought necessary. In the last 2 weeks I only lost 3 to BER after heavy calcium supplements. And you don't remember anyone telling you that BER happened at the beginning of production and then went away? A bit OT: http://4e.plantphys.net/article.php?ch=3&id=289 Note the bit about calcium and growing region, which is related to the above. The interaction between nutrient mobility in the plant, and plant growth rate can be a major factor influencing the type and location of deficiency symptoms that develop. For very mobile nutrients such as nitrogen and potassium, deficiency symptoms develop predominantly in the older and mature leaves. This is a result of these nutrients being preferentially mobilized during times of nutrient stress from the older leaves to the newer leaves near the growing regions of the plant. Additionally, mobile nutrients newly acquired by the roots are also preferentially translocated to new leaves and the growing regions. Thus old and mature leaves are depleted of mobile nutrients during times of stress while the new leaves are maintained at a more favorable nutrient status. The typical localization of deficiency symptoms of very weakly mobile nutrients such as calcium, boron, and iron is the opposite to that of the mobile nutrients; these deficiency symptoms are first displayed in the growing regions and new leaves while the old leaves remain in a favorable nutrient status. (This assumes that these plants started with sufficient nutrient, but ran out of nutrient as they developed). In plants growing very slowly for reasons other than nutrition (such as low light) a normally limiting supply of a nutrient could, under these conditions, be sufficient for the plant to slowly develop, maybe even without symptoms. This type of development is likely to occur in the case of weakly mobile nutrients because excess nutrients in the older leaves will eventually be mobilized to supply newly developing tissues. In contrast, a plant with a similar supply that is growing rapidly will develop severe deficiencies in the actively growing tissue such as leaf edges and the growing region of the plant. A classic example of this is calcium deficiency in vegetables such as lettuce where symptoms develop on the leaf margins (tip burn) and the growing region near the meristems. The maximal growth rate of lettuce is often limited by the internal translocation rate of calcium to the growing tissue rather than from a limited nutrient supply in the soil. When moderately mobile nutrients such as sulfur and magnesium are the limiting nutrients of the system, deficiency symptoms are normally seen over the entire plant. However the growth rate and rate of nutrient availability can make a considerable difference on the locations at which the symptoms develop. If the nutrient supply is marginal compared to the growth rate, symptoms will appear on the older tissue, but if the nutrient supply is very low compared to the growth rate, or the nutrient is totally depleted, the younger tissue will become deficient first. I'll have to reread this later, it certainly explains a lot to me. Perhaps excess mobility in some nutrients inhibits slow moving nutrients like calcium. Just speculating... Jeff You are such an idiot. Leave the branches alone. This is what tomato plants do. |
#12
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Tomato plant stalks broken
In article ,
Jeff Thies wrote: Billy wrote: In article , "Paul M. Cook" wrote: I sure beat the BER problem. It just took way more calcium than I ever thought necessary. In the last 2 weeks I only lost 3 to BER after heavy calcium supplements. And you don't remember anyone telling you that BER happened at the beginning of production and then went away? A bit OT: http://4e.plantphys.net/article.php?ch=3&id=289 Note the bit about calcium and growing region, which is related to the above. The interaction between nutrient mobility in the plant, and plant growth rate can be a major factor influencing the type and location of deficiency symptoms that develop. For very mobile nutrients such as nitrogen and potassium, deficiency symptoms develop predominantly in the older and mature leaves. This is a result of these nutrients being preferentially mobilized during times of nutrient stress from the older leaves to the newer leaves near the growing regions of the plant. Additionally, mobile nutrients newly acquired by the roots are also preferentially translocated to new leaves and the growing regions. Thus old and mature leaves are depleted of mobile nutrients during times of stress while the new leaves are maintained at a more favorable nutrient status. The typical localization of deficiency symptoms of very weakly mobile nutrients such as calcium, boron, and iron is the opposite to that of the mobile nutrients; these deficiency symptoms are first displayed in the growing regions and new leaves while the old leaves remain in a favorable nutrient status. (This assumes that these plants started with sufficient nutrient, but ran out of nutrient as they developed). In plants growing very slowly for reasons other than nutrition (such as low light) a normally limiting supply of a nutrient could, under these conditions, be sufficient for the plant to slowly develop, maybe even without symptoms. This type of development is likely to occur in the case of weakly mobile nutrients because excess nutrients in the older leaves will eventually be mobilized to supply newly developing tissues. In contrast, a plant with a similar supply that is growing rapidly will develop severe deficiencies in the actively growing tissue such as leaf edges and the growing region of the plant. A classic example of this is calcium deficiency in vegetables such as lettuce where symptoms develop on the leaf margins (tip burn) and the growing region near the meristems. The maximal growth rate of lettuce is often limited by the internal translocation rate of calcium to the growing tissue rather than from a limited nutrient supply in the soil. When moderately mobile nutrients such as sulfur and magnesium are the limiting nutrients of the system, deficiency symptoms are normally seen over the entire plant. However the growth rate and rate of nutrient availability can make a considerable difference on the locations at which the symptoms develop. If the nutrient supply is marginal compared to the growth rate, symptoms will appear on the older tissue, but if the nutrient supply is very low compared to the growth rate, or the nutrient is totally depleted, the younger tissue will become deficient first. I'll have to reread this later, it certainly explains a lot to me. Perhaps excess mobility in some nutrients inhibits slow moving nutrients like calcium. Just speculating... Jeff You are such an idiot. Leave the branches alone. This is what tomato plants do. I don't doubt that this is what happened. The plant in its vigorous vegetative stage was unable to take-up the calcium that it needed due to dry roots, nutrients being flushed away, or high temps which simply required water for evaporative cooling with no Ca transport. So the above is a very good answer to a question that I didn't ask ;O) My question was to the Balvenieman, who wrote on Thu, 15 Jul 2010 14:02:52 that "Excesses of certain micro-nutrients -- magnesium, for example -- can interfere with plants' ability to acquire and/or to transport Ca." I was just wondering if he had a citation for it because I had always heard that a deficiency of Mg would affect Ca transport, as a result, some would use epsom salts in a foliar spray on their plants to try to alleviate this condition, but I have never heard of an excess of magnesium as being a problem. It is true that an excess of boron or NO3 can hamper Ca transport, but that wasn't the question. -- - Billy "Fascism should more properly be called corporatism because it is the merger of state and corporate power." - Benito Mussolini. http://www.democracynow.org/2010/7/2/maude http://www.democracynow.org/2010/6/2...al_crime_scene |
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