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#1
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Miracle Grow?
I seem to be having better luck using Miracle Grow instead of 10 10 10. My question is does it have to diluted and poured at the plant base or because I have an irrigation system can I just sprinkle some around it? Has anyone tried this? Would it burn the plant even if it does not come in direct contact with the plant?
With the installation of the electric fences things are growing well, I just would like to optimize the season. Thanks for any help or ideas. MJ |
#2
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Miracle Grow?
On Friday, June 21, 2013 3:42:46 AM UTC-7, mj wrote:
I seem to be having better luck using Miracle Grow instead of 10 10 10. My question is does it have to diluted and poured at the plant base or because I have an irrigation system can I just sprinkle some around it? Has anyone tried this? Would it burn the plant even if it does not come in direct contact with the plant? With the installation of the electric fences things are growing well, I just would like to optimize the season. Thanks for any help or ideas. I am not a huge fan of Miracle-Gro. I prefer to modify the soil to make/keep it healthy. I do sometimes use fertilizer from a reputable nursery, but more often work in compost (distrib. free by the city. I used to make my own but took the lazy way out. Am a big fan of Worm Castings, which are a powdery amendment generated from the hard work of our little friends toiling away under the ground. Please follow the directions on the Miracle-Gro box/bag to get answers to your questions about application. I use MG very seldom and am careful to follow directions about diluting. I would NOT sprinkle. HTH HB |
#3
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Miracle Grow?
On 6/22/2013 7:45 PM, Higgs Boson wrote:
On Friday, June 21, 2013 3:42:46 AM UTC-7, mj wrote: I seem to be having better luck using Miracle Grow instead of 10 10 10. My question is does it have to diluted and poured at the plant base or because I have an irrigation system can I just sprinkle some around it? Has anyone tried this? Would it burn the plant even if it does not come in direct contact with the plant? With the installation of the electric fences things are growing well, I just would like to optimize the season. Thanks for any help or ideas. I am not a huge fan of Miracle-Gro. I prefer to modify the soil to make/keep it healthy. I do sometimes use fertilizer from a reputable nursery, but more often work in compost (distrib. free by the city. I used to make my own but took the lazy way out. Am a big fan of Worm Castings, which are a powdery amendment generated from the hard work of our little friends toiling away under the ground. Please follow the directions on the Miracle-Gro box/bag to get answers to your questions about application. I use MG very seldom and am careful to follow directions about diluting. I would NOT sprinkle. HTH HB When I was young and dumb I sprinkled Miracle grow once, and things died. Follow the directions on the Miracle grow bottle/box |
#4
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Miracle Grow?
On Sunday, June 23, 2013 10:16:59 PM UTC-4, Hench wrote:
On 6/22/2013 7:45 PM, Higgs Boson wrote: On Friday, June 21, 2013 3:42:46 AM UTC-7, mj wrote: I seem to be having better luck using Miracle Grow instead of 10 10 10.. My question is does it have to diluted and poured at the plant base or because I have an irrigation system can I just sprinkle some around it? Has anyone tried this? Would it burn the plant even if it does not come in direct contact with the plant? With the installation of the electric fences things are growing well, I just would like to optimize the season. Thanks for any help or ideas. I am not a huge fan of Miracle-Gro. I prefer to modify the soil to make/keep it healthy. I do sometimes use fertilizer from a reputable nursery, but more often work in compost (distrib. free by the city. I used to make my own but took the lazy way out. Am a big fan of Worm Castings, which are a powdery amendment generated from the hard work of our little friends toiling away under the ground. Please follow the directions on the Miracle-Gro box/bag to get answers to your questions about application. I use MG very seldom and am careful to follow directions about diluting. I would NOT sprinkle. HTH HB When I was young and dumb I sprinkled Miracle grow once, and things died. Follow the directions on the Miracle grow bottle/box Who keeps the box???? It gets wet and soggy and you can't read it anyway. Hence the question asked. |
#5
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Miracle Grow?
On 6/21/13 3:42 AM, mj wrote:
I seem to be having better luck using Miracle Grow instead of 10 10 10. My question is does it have to diluted and poured at the plant base or because I have an irrigation system can I just sprinkle some around it? Has anyone tried this? Would it burn the plant even if it does not come in direct contact with the plant? With the installation of the electric fences things are growing well, I just would like to optimize the season. Thanks for any help or ideas. MJ For general fertilizing, I use a house-brand of lawn food that is 21-0-6. Yes, I use it in my shrub and flower beds. I do this only once a year, early in March. I am sure my garden would be more lush if I fed it more often; but then the additional growth would require additional water, which is quite precious here. (Counting electricity, natural gas, and water, water amounts to 58% of my total utility bills, averaging almost $140 per month for my two-person household and less than 1/5 of an acre of garden.) The zero in 21-0-6 represents phosphorus. Phosphorus is generally wasted when applied to the soil surface. It does not readily travel through the soil to plant roots. Instead, it should be applied as superphosphate or bone meal to the bottom of the hole when planting, where the plant roots will find it. Furthermore, phosphorus is a major pollutant of streams and lakes. A good handful of bone meal will last a flowering plant many years. Some of my plants require special fertilizing at special times. My camellias and azaleas are fed once a year after all blooming is finished with a slow-acting commercial camellia-azalea food. My dwarf citrus are in very large pots with fast-draining mix; since nutrients tend to leach out, they are fed every three weeks from March until October with either commercial citrus food or ammonium sulfate, with an additional large pinch of zinc sulfate. Roses require abundant nutrients; mine are fed monthly from March through October, alternating between ammonium sulfate and a commercial fertilizer containing a systemic insecticide. One size does not fit all. -- David E. Ross Climate: California Mediterranean, see http://www.rossde.com/garden/climate.html Gardening diary at http://www.rossde.com/garden/diary |
#6
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Miracle Grow?
On Monday, June 24, 2013 11:20:22 AM UTC-4, David E. Ross wrote:
On 6/21/13 3:42 AM, mj wrote: I seem to be having better luck using Miracle Grow instead of 10 10 10. My question is does it have to diluted and poured at the plant base or because I have an irrigation system can I just sprinkle some around it? Has anyone tried this? Would it burn the plant even if it does not come in direct contact with the plant? With the installation of the electric fences things are growing well, I just would like to optimize the season. Thanks for any help or ideas. MJ For general fertilizing, I use a house-brand of lawn food that is 21-0-6. Yes, I use it in my shrub and flower beds. I do this only once a year, early in March. I am sure my garden would be more lush if I fed it more often; but then the additional growth would require additional water, which is quite precious here. (Counting electricity, natural gas, and water, water amounts to 58% of my total utility bills, averaging almost $140 per month for my two-person household and less than 1/5 of an acre of garden.) The zero in 21-0-6 represents phosphorus. Phosphorus is generally wasted when applied to the soil surface. It does not readily travel through the soil to plant roots. Instead, it should be applied as superphosphate or bone meal to the bottom of the hole when planting, where the plant roots will find it. Furthermore, phosphorus is a major pollutant of streams and lakes. A good handful of bone meal will last a flowering plant many years. Some of my plants require special fertilizing at special times. My camellias and azaleas are fed once a year after all blooming is finished with a slow-acting commercial camellia-azalea food. My dwarf citrus are in very large pots with fast-draining mix; since nutrients tend to leach out, they are fed every three weeks from March until October with either commercial citrus food or ammonium sulfate, with an additional large pinch of zinc sulfate. Roses require abundant nutrients; mine are fed monthly from March through October, alternating between ammonium sulfate and a commercial fertilizer containing a systemic insecticide. One size does not fit all. -- David E. Ross Climate: California Mediterranean, see http://www.rossde.com/garden/climate.html Gardening diary at http://www.rossde.com/garden/diary Does that work well for Roses? I spray every 10 days but have never tried that. Other than the vegetable garden (roughly 280 sq ft) and the rose garden (8 roses) I have no other plants in dirt. The hydroponics are in the green house and that is where I grow tomatoes. They will not grow in the garden. They start to flower and go to wilt. I have no idea why. I have had the soil tested, talked to the cooperative extension guys, moved them around, nothing works so I gave up. The good news is I usually have tomatoes all year. So I will keep using the 10 10 10 every few weeks and diluted Miracle Grow from time to time I guess. MJ |
#7
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Miracle Grow?
On Monday, June 24, 2013 8:20:22 AM UTC-7, David E. Ross wrote:
On 6/21/13 3:42 AM, mj wrote: I seem to be having better luck using Miracle Grow instead of 10 10 10. My question is does it have to diluted and poured at the plant base or because I have an irrigation system can I just sprinkle some around it? Has anyone tried this? Would it burn the plant even if it does not come in direct contact with the plant? With the installation of the electric fences things are growing well, I just would like to optimize the season. Thanks for any help or ideas. MJ For general fertilizing, I use a house-brand of lawn food that is 21-0-6. Yes, I use it in my shrub and flower beds. I do this only once a year, early in March. I am sure my garden would be more lush if I fed it more often; but then the additional growth would require additional water, which is quite precious here. (Counting electricity, natural gas, and water, water amounts to 58% of my total utility bills, averaging almost $140 per month for my two-person household and less than 1/5 of an acre of garden.) The zero in 21-0-6 represents phosphorus. Phosphorus is generally wasted when applied to the soil surface. It does not readily travel through the soil to plant roots. Instead, it should be applied as superphosphate or bone meal to the bottom of the hole when planting, where the plant roots will find it. Furthermore, phosphorus is a major pollutant of streams and lakes. A good handful of bone meal will last a flowering plant many years. Some of my plants require special fertilizing at special times. My camellias and azaleas are fed once a year after all blooming is finished with a slow-acting commercial camellia-azalea food. My dwarf citrus are in very large pots with fast-draining mix; since nutrients tend to leach out, they are fed every three weeks from March until October with either commercial citrus food or ammonium sulfate, with an additional large pinch of zinc sulfate. Roses require abundant nutrients; mine are fed monthly from March through October, alternating between ammonium sulfate and a commercial fertilizer containing a systemic insecticide. One size does not fit all. -- David E. Ross Climate: California Mediterranean, see http://www.rossde.com/garden/climate.html Gardening diary at http://www.rossde.com/garden/diary Yes, David, water is very, very expensive here. For our NG friends, the So.. Calif area is basically a desert. Not until water was brought here via "Chinatown" aqueduct machinations as the theft of Owens Valley water, etc. could the greater LA area begin to gro and gro and gro, thereby earning Miracle-Gro beaucoup bux. In the course of some heavy-duty changes like taking out a huge old hedge and moving plants from elsewhere in the garden to avoid huge expense for mature plants in the vacant area, I was bracing for my next water bill. Right... highest in [censored] years on the plantation. People do turn to xeroscapic gardening, promoted by City Hall, as well as covering the soil with stones/pebbles/bark, but I guess I'm not ready for such major change. At least not until I have recovered from recent month-long exertions...a few hours a day...light at end of tunnel... |
#8
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Miracle Grow?
On Monday, June 24, 2013 12:38:13 PM UTC-7, Higgs Boson wrote:
On Monday, June 24, 2013 8:20:22 AM UTC-7, David E. Ross wrote: On 6/21/13 3:42 AM, mj wrote: I seem to be having better luck using Miracle Grow instead of 10 10 10. My question is does it have to diluted and poured at the plant base or because I have an irrigation system can I just sprinkle some around it? Has anyone tried this? Would it burn the plant even if it does not come in direct contact with the plant? With the installation of the electric fences things are growing well, I just would like to optimize the season. Thanks for any help or ideas. MJ For general fertilizing, I use a house-brand of lawn food that is 21-0-6. Yes, I use it in my shrub and flower beds. I do this only once a year, early in March. I am sure my garden would be more lush if I fed it more often; but then the additional growth would require additional water, which is quite precious here. (Counting electricity, natural gas, and water, water amounts to 58% of my total utility bills, averaging almost $140 per month for my two-person household and less than 1/5 of an acre of garden.) The zero in 21-0-6 represents phosphorus. Phosphorus is generally wasted when applied to the soil surface. It does not readily travel through the soil to plant roots. Instead, it should be applied as superphosphate or bone meal to the bottom of the hole when planting, where the plant roots will find it. Furthermore, phosphorus is a major pollutant of streams and lakes. A good handful of bone meal will last a flowering plant many years. Some of my plants require special fertilizing at special times. My camellias and azaleas are fed once a year after all blooming is finished with a slow-acting commercial camellia-azalea food. My dwarf citrus are in very large pots with fast-draining mix; since nutrients tend to leach out, they are fed every three weeks from March until October with either commercial citrus food or ammonium sulfate, with an additional large pinch of zinc sulfate. Roses require abundant nutrients; mine are fed monthly from March through October, alternating between ammonium sulfate and a commercial fertilizer containing a systemic insecticide. One size does not fit all. -- David E. Ross Climate: California Mediterranean, see http://www.rossde.com/garden/climate.html Gardening diary at http://www.rossde.com/garden/diary Yes, David, water is very, very expensive here. For our NG friends, the So. Calif area is basically a desert. Not until water was brought here via "Chinatown" aqueduct machinations as the theft of Owens Valley water, etc. could the greater LA area begin to gro and gro and gro, thereby earning Miracle-Gro beaucoup bux. Oops - typo -- should read "...aqueduct machinations AND the theft of Owens Valley water..." In the course of some heavy-duty changes like taking out a huge old hedge and moving plants from elsewhere in the garden to avoid huge expense for mature plants in the vacant area, I was bracing for my next water bill. Right... highest in [censored] years on the plantation. People do turn to xeroscapic gardening, promoted by City Hall, as well as covering the soil with stones/pebbles/bark, but I guess I'm not ready for such major change. At least not until I have recovered from recent month-long exertions...a few hours a day...light at end of tunnel... |
#9
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Miracle Grow?
On Monday, June 24, 2013 3:38:13 PM UTC-4, Higgs Boson wrote:
On Monday, June 24, 2013 8:20:22 AM UTC-7, David E. Ross wrote: On 6/21/13 3:42 AM, mj wrote: I seem to be having better luck using Miracle Grow instead of 10 10 10. My question is does it have to diluted and poured at the plant base or because I have an irrigation system can I just sprinkle some around it? Has anyone tried this? Would it burn the plant even if it does not come in direct contact with the plant? With the installation of the electric fences things are growing well, I just would like to optimize the season. Thanks for any help or ideas. MJ For general fertilizing, I use a house-brand of lawn food that is 21-0-6. Yes, I use it in my shrub and flower beds. I do this only once a year, early in March. I am sure my garden would be more lush if I fed it more often; but then the additional growth would require additional water, which is quite precious here. (Counting electricity, natural gas, and water, water amounts to 58% of my total utility bills, averaging almost $140 per month for my two-person household and less than 1/5 of an acre of garden.) The zero in 21-0-6 represents phosphorus. Phosphorus is generally wasted when applied to the soil surface. It does not readily travel through the soil to plant roots. Instead, it should be applied as superphosphate or bone meal to the bottom of the hole when planting, where the plant roots will find it. Furthermore, phosphorus is a major pollutant of streams and lakes. A good handful of bone meal will last a flowering plant many years. Some of my plants require special fertilizing at special times. My camellias and azaleas are fed once a year after all blooming is finished with a slow-acting commercial camellia-azalea food. My dwarf citrus are in very large pots with fast-draining mix; since nutrients tend to leach out, they are fed every three weeks from March until October with either commercial citrus food or ammonium sulfate, with an additional large pinch of zinc sulfate. Roses require abundant nutrients; mine are fed monthly from March through October, alternating between ammonium sulfate and a commercial fertilizer containing a systemic insecticide. One size does not fit all. -- David E. Ross Climate: California Mediterranean, see http://www.rossde.com/garden/climate.html Gardening diary at http://www.rossde.com/garden/diary Yes, David, water is very, very expensive here. For our NG friends, the So. Calif area is basically a desert. Not until water was brought here via "Chinatown" aqueduct machinations as the theft of Owens Valley water, etc. could the greater LA area begin to gro and gro and gro, thereby earning Miracle-Gro beaucoup bux. In the course of some heavy-duty changes like taking out a huge old hedge and moving plants from elsewhere in the garden to avoid huge expense for mature plants in the vacant area, I was bracing for my next water bill. Right... highest in [censored] years on the plantation. People do turn to xeroscapic gardening, promoted by City Hall, as well as covering the soil with stones/pebbles/bark, but I guess I'm not ready for such major change. At least not until I have recovered from recent month-long exertions...a few hours a day...light at end of tunnel... Gosh I guess I will stop complaining about our lake level being down 18 inches. There is still plenty for the irrigation system I use to water. MJ |
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