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Old 21-06-2013, 11:42 AM posted to rec.gardens
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Default Miracle Grow?

I seem to be having better luck using Miracle Grow instead of 10 10 10. My question is does it have to diluted and poured at the plant base or because I have an irrigation system can I just sprinkle some around it? Has anyone tried this? Would it burn the plant even if it does not come in direct contact with the plant?
With the installation of the electric fences things are growing well, I just would like to optimize the season. Thanks for any help or ideas.

MJ

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Old 23-06-2013, 12:45 AM posted to rec.gardens
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Default Miracle Grow?

On Friday, June 21, 2013 3:42:46 AM UTC-7, mj wrote:
I seem to be having better luck using Miracle Grow instead of 10 10 10. My question is does it have to diluted and poured at the plant base or because I have an irrigation system can I just sprinkle some around it? Has anyone tried this? Would it burn the plant even if it does not come in direct contact with the plant?

With the installation of the electric fences things are growing well, I just would like to optimize the season. Thanks for any help or ideas.

I am not a huge fan of Miracle-Gro. I prefer to modify the soil to make/keep it healthy. I do sometimes use fertilizer from a reputable nursery,

but more often work in compost (distrib. free by the city. I used to make my own but took the lazy way out. Am a big fan of Worm Castings, which are a powdery amendment generated from the hard work of our little friends toiling away under the ground.

Please follow the directions on the Miracle-Gro box/bag to get answers to your questions about application. I use MG very seldom and am careful to follow directions about diluting. I would NOT sprinkle.

HTH

HB


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Old 24-06-2013, 03:16 AM posted to rec.gardens
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Default Miracle Grow?

On 6/22/2013 7:45 PM, Higgs Boson wrote:
On Friday, June 21, 2013 3:42:46 AM UTC-7, mj wrote:
I seem to be having better luck using Miracle Grow instead of 10 10 10. My question is does it have to diluted and poured at the plant base or because I have an irrigation system can I just sprinkle some around it? Has anyone tried this? Would it burn the plant even if it does not come in direct contact with the plant?

With the installation of the electric fences things are growing well, I just would like to optimize the season. Thanks for any help or ideas.

I am not a huge fan of Miracle-Gro. I prefer to modify the soil to make/keep it healthy. I do sometimes use fertilizer from a reputable nursery,

but more often work in compost (distrib. free by the city. I used to make my own but took the lazy way out. Am a big fan of Worm Castings, which are a powdery amendment generated from the hard work of our little friends toiling away under the ground.

Please follow the directions on the Miracle-Gro box/bag to get answers to your questions about application. I use MG very seldom and am careful to follow directions about diluting. I would NOT sprinkle.

HTH

HB



When I was young and dumb I sprinkled Miracle grow once, and things died.

Follow the directions on the Miracle grow bottle/box
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Old 24-06-2013, 11:50 AM posted to rec.gardens
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Default Miracle Grow?

On Sunday, June 23, 2013 10:16:59 PM UTC-4, Hench wrote:
On 6/22/2013 7:45 PM, Higgs Boson wrote:

On Friday, June 21, 2013 3:42:46 AM UTC-7, mj wrote:


I seem to be having better luck using Miracle Grow instead of 10 10 10.. My question is does it have to diluted and poured at the plant base or because I have an irrigation system can I just sprinkle some around it? Has anyone tried this? Would it burn the plant even if it does not come in direct contact with the plant?




With the installation of the electric fences things are growing well, I just would like to optimize the season. Thanks for any help or ideas.




I am not a huge fan of Miracle-Gro. I prefer to modify the soil to make/keep it healthy. I do sometimes use fertilizer from a reputable nursery,


but more often work in compost (distrib. free by the city. I used to make my own but took the lazy way out. Am a big fan of Worm Castings, which are a powdery amendment generated from the hard work of our little friends toiling away under the ground.




Please follow the directions on the Miracle-Gro box/bag to get answers to your questions about application. I use MG very seldom and am careful to follow directions about diluting. I would NOT sprinkle.




HTH




HB








When I was young and dumb I sprinkled Miracle grow once, and things died.



Follow the directions on the Miracle grow bottle/box


Who keeps the box???? It gets wet and soggy and you can't read it anyway. Hence the question asked.
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Old 24-06-2013, 04:20 PM posted to rec.gardens
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Default Miracle Grow?

On 6/21/13 3:42 AM, mj wrote:
I seem to be having better luck using Miracle Grow instead of 10 10
10. My question is does it have to diluted and poured at the plant
base or because I have an irrigation system can I just sprinkle some
around it? Has anyone tried this? Would it burn the plant even if it
does not come in direct contact with the plant? With the installation
of the electric fences things are growing well, I just would like to
optimize the season. Thanks for any help or ideas.

MJ


For general fertilizing, I use a house-brand of lawn food that is
21-0-6. Yes, I use it in my shrub and flower beds. I do this only once
a year, early in March. I am sure my garden would be more lush if I fed
it more often; but then the additional growth would require additional
water, which is quite precious here. (Counting electricity, natural
gas, and water, water amounts to 58% of my total utility bills,
averaging almost $140 per month for my two-person household and less
than 1/5 of an acre of garden.)

The zero in 21-0-6 represents phosphorus. Phosphorus is generally
wasted when applied to the soil surface. It does not readily travel
through the soil to plant roots. Instead, it should be applied as
superphosphate or bone meal to the bottom of the hole when planting,
where the plant roots will find it. Furthermore, phosphorus is a major
pollutant of streams and lakes. A good handful of bone meal will last a
flowering plant many years.

Some of my plants require special fertilizing at special times. My
camellias and azaleas are fed once a year after all blooming is finished
with a slow-acting commercial camellia-azalea food. My dwarf citrus are
in very large pots with fast-draining mix; since nutrients tend to leach
out, they are fed every three weeks from March until October with either
commercial citrus food or ammonium sulfate, with an additional large
pinch of zinc sulfate. Roses require abundant nutrients; mine are fed
monthly from March through October, alternating between ammonium sulfate
and a commercial fertilizer containing a systemic insecticide.

One size does not fit all.

--
David E. Ross
Climate: California Mediterranean, see
http://www.rossde.com/garden/climate.html
Gardening diary at http://www.rossde.com/garden/diary


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Old 24-06-2013, 06:09 PM posted to rec.gardens
mj mj is offline
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Default Miracle Grow?

On Monday, June 24, 2013 11:20:22 AM UTC-4, David E. Ross wrote:
On 6/21/13 3:42 AM, mj wrote:

I seem to be having better luck using Miracle Grow instead of 10 10


10. My question is does it have to diluted and poured at the plant


base or because I have an irrigation system can I just sprinkle some


around it? Has anyone tried this? Would it burn the plant even if it


does not come in direct contact with the plant? With the installation


of the electric fences things are growing well, I just would like to


optimize the season. Thanks for any help or ideas.




MJ






For general fertilizing, I use a house-brand of lawn food that is

21-0-6. Yes, I use it in my shrub and flower beds. I do this only once

a year, early in March. I am sure my garden would be more lush if I fed

it more often; but then the additional growth would require additional

water, which is quite precious here. (Counting electricity, natural

gas, and water, water amounts to 58% of my total utility bills,

averaging almost $140 per month for my two-person household and less

than 1/5 of an acre of garden.)



The zero in 21-0-6 represents phosphorus. Phosphorus is generally

wasted when applied to the soil surface. It does not readily travel

through the soil to plant roots. Instead, it should be applied as

superphosphate or bone meal to the bottom of the hole when planting,

where the plant roots will find it. Furthermore, phosphorus is a major

pollutant of streams and lakes. A good handful of bone meal will last a

flowering plant many years.



Some of my plants require special fertilizing at special times. My

camellias and azaleas are fed once a year after all blooming is finished

with a slow-acting commercial camellia-azalea food. My dwarf citrus are

in very large pots with fast-draining mix; since nutrients tend to leach

out, they are fed every three weeks from March until October with either

commercial citrus food or ammonium sulfate, with an additional large

pinch of zinc sulfate. Roses require abundant nutrients; mine are fed

monthly from March through October, alternating between ammonium sulfate

and a commercial fertilizer containing a systemic insecticide.



One size does not fit all.



--

David E. Ross

Climate: California Mediterranean, see

http://www.rossde.com/garden/climate.html

Gardening diary at http://www.rossde.com/garden/diary


Does that work well for Roses? I spray every 10 days but have never tried that.
Other than the vegetable garden (roughly 280 sq ft) and the rose garden (8 roses) I have no other plants in dirt. The hydroponics are in the green house and that is where I grow tomatoes. They will not grow in the garden. They start to flower and go to wilt. I have no idea why. I have had the soil tested, talked to the cooperative extension guys, moved them around, nothing works so I gave up. The good news is I usually have tomatoes all year.
So I will keep using the 10 10 10 every few weeks and diluted Miracle Grow from time to time I guess.
MJ
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Old 24-06-2013, 08:38 PM posted to rec.gardens
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Default Miracle Grow?

On Monday, June 24, 2013 8:20:22 AM UTC-7, David E. Ross wrote:
On 6/21/13 3:42 AM, mj wrote:

I seem to be having better luck using Miracle Grow instead of 10 10


10. My question is does it have to diluted and poured at the plant


base or because I have an irrigation system can I just sprinkle some


around it? Has anyone tried this? Would it burn the plant even if it


does not come in direct contact with the plant? With the installation


of the electric fences things are growing well, I just would like to


optimize the season. Thanks for any help or ideas.




MJ






For general fertilizing, I use a house-brand of lawn food that is

21-0-6. Yes, I use it in my shrub and flower beds. I do this only once

a year, early in March. I am sure my garden would be more lush if I fed

it more often; but then the additional growth would require additional

water, which is quite precious here. (Counting electricity, natural

gas, and water, water amounts to 58% of my total utility bills,

averaging almost $140 per month for my two-person household and less

than 1/5 of an acre of garden.)



The zero in 21-0-6 represents phosphorus. Phosphorus is generally

wasted when applied to the soil surface. It does not readily travel

through the soil to plant roots. Instead, it should be applied as

superphosphate or bone meal to the bottom of the hole when planting,

where the plant roots will find it. Furthermore, phosphorus is a major

pollutant of streams and lakes. A good handful of bone meal will last a

flowering plant many years.



Some of my plants require special fertilizing at special times. My

camellias and azaleas are fed once a year after all blooming is finished

with a slow-acting commercial camellia-azalea food. My dwarf citrus are

in very large pots with fast-draining mix; since nutrients tend to leach

out, they are fed every three weeks from March until October with either

commercial citrus food or ammonium sulfate, with an additional large

pinch of zinc sulfate. Roses require abundant nutrients; mine are fed

monthly from March through October, alternating between ammonium sulfate

and a commercial fertilizer containing a systemic insecticide.



One size does not fit all.



--

David E. Ross

Climate: California Mediterranean, see

http://www.rossde.com/garden/climate.html

Gardening diary at http://www.rossde.com/garden/diary


Yes, David, water is very, very expensive here. For our NG friends, the So.. Calif area is basically a desert. Not until water was brought here via "Chinatown" aqueduct machinations as the theft of Owens Valley water, etc. could the greater LA area begin to gro and gro and gro, thereby earning Miracle-Gro beaucoup bux.

In the course of some heavy-duty changes like taking out a huge old hedge and moving plants from elsewhere in the garden to avoid huge expense for mature plants in the vacant area, I was bracing for my next water bill.

Right... highest in [censored] years on the plantation.

People do turn to xeroscapic gardening, promoted by City Hall, as well as covering the soil with stones/pebbles/bark, but I guess I'm not ready for such major change. At least not until I have recovered from recent month-long exertions...a few hours a day...light at end of tunnel...
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Old 24-06-2013, 08:39 PM posted to rec.gardens
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Default Miracle Grow?

On Monday, June 24, 2013 12:38:13 PM UTC-7, Higgs Boson wrote:
On Monday, June 24, 2013 8:20:22 AM UTC-7, David E. Ross wrote:

On 6/21/13 3:42 AM, mj wrote:




I seem to be having better luck using Miracle Grow instead of 10 10




10. My question is does it have to diluted and poured at the plant




base or because I have an irrigation system can I just sprinkle some




around it? Has anyone tried this? Would it burn the plant even if it




does not come in direct contact with the plant? With the installation




of the electric fences things are growing well, I just would like to




optimize the season. Thanks for any help or ideas.








MJ












For general fertilizing, I use a house-brand of lawn food that is




21-0-6. Yes, I use it in my shrub and flower beds. I do this only once




a year, early in March. I am sure my garden would be more lush if I fed




it more often; but then the additional growth would require additional




water, which is quite precious here. (Counting electricity, natural




gas, and water, water amounts to 58% of my total utility bills,




averaging almost $140 per month for my two-person household and less




than 1/5 of an acre of garden.)








The zero in 21-0-6 represents phosphorus. Phosphorus is generally




wasted when applied to the soil surface. It does not readily travel




through the soil to plant roots. Instead, it should be applied as




superphosphate or bone meal to the bottom of the hole when planting,




where the plant roots will find it. Furthermore, phosphorus is a major




pollutant of streams and lakes. A good handful of bone meal will last a




flowering plant many years.








Some of my plants require special fertilizing at special times. My




camellias and azaleas are fed once a year after all blooming is finished




with a slow-acting commercial camellia-azalea food. My dwarf citrus are




in very large pots with fast-draining mix; since nutrients tend to leach




out, they are fed every three weeks from March until October with either




commercial citrus food or ammonium sulfate, with an additional large




pinch of zinc sulfate. Roses require abundant nutrients; mine are fed




monthly from March through October, alternating between ammonium sulfate




and a commercial fertilizer containing a systemic insecticide.








One size does not fit all.








--




David E. Ross




Climate: California Mediterranean, see




http://www.rossde.com/garden/climate.html




Gardening diary at http://www.rossde.com/garden/diary




Yes, David, water is very, very expensive here. For our NG friends, the So. Calif area is basically a desert. Not until water was brought here via "Chinatown" aqueduct machinations as the theft of Owens Valley water, etc. could the greater LA area begin to gro and gro and gro, thereby earning Miracle-Gro beaucoup bux.


Oops - typo -- should read "...aqueduct machinations AND the theft of Owens Valley water..."


In the course of some heavy-duty changes like taking out a huge old hedge and moving plants from elsewhere in the garden to avoid huge expense for mature plants in the vacant area, I was bracing for my next water bill.



Right... highest in [censored] years on the plantation.



People do turn to xeroscapic gardening, promoted by City Hall, as well as covering the soil with stones/pebbles/bark, but I guess I'm not ready for such major change. At least not until I have recovered from recent month-long exertions...a few hours a day...light at end of tunnel...


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Old 24-06-2013, 08:48 PM posted to rec.gardens
mj mj is offline
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Default Miracle Grow?

On Monday, June 24, 2013 3:38:13 PM UTC-4, Higgs Boson wrote:
On Monday, June 24, 2013 8:20:22 AM UTC-7, David E. Ross wrote:

On 6/21/13 3:42 AM, mj wrote:




I seem to be having better luck using Miracle Grow instead of 10 10




10. My question is does it have to diluted and poured at the plant




base or because I have an irrigation system can I just sprinkle some




around it? Has anyone tried this? Would it burn the plant even if it




does not come in direct contact with the plant? With the installation




of the electric fences things are growing well, I just would like to




optimize the season. Thanks for any help or ideas.








MJ












For general fertilizing, I use a house-brand of lawn food that is




21-0-6. Yes, I use it in my shrub and flower beds. I do this only once




a year, early in March. I am sure my garden would be more lush if I fed




it more often; but then the additional growth would require additional




water, which is quite precious here. (Counting electricity, natural




gas, and water, water amounts to 58% of my total utility bills,




averaging almost $140 per month for my two-person household and less




than 1/5 of an acre of garden.)








The zero in 21-0-6 represents phosphorus. Phosphorus is generally




wasted when applied to the soil surface. It does not readily travel




through the soil to plant roots. Instead, it should be applied as




superphosphate or bone meal to the bottom of the hole when planting,




where the plant roots will find it. Furthermore, phosphorus is a major




pollutant of streams and lakes. A good handful of bone meal will last a




flowering plant many years.








Some of my plants require special fertilizing at special times. My




camellias and azaleas are fed once a year after all blooming is finished




with a slow-acting commercial camellia-azalea food. My dwarf citrus are




in very large pots with fast-draining mix; since nutrients tend to leach




out, they are fed every three weeks from March until October with either




commercial citrus food or ammonium sulfate, with an additional large




pinch of zinc sulfate. Roses require abundant nutrients; mine are fed




monthly from March through October, alternating between ammonium sulfate




and a commercial fertilizer containing a systemic insecticide.








One size does not fit all.








--




David E. Ross




Climate: California Mediterranean, see




http://www.rossde.com/garden/climate.html




Gardening diary at http://www.rossde.com/garden/diary




Yes, David, water is very, very expensive here. For our NG friends, the So. Calif area is basically a desert. Not until water was brought here via "Chinatown" aqueduct machinations as the theft of Owens Valley water, etc. could the greater LA area begin to gro and gro and gro, thereby earning Miracle-Gro beaucoup bux.



In the course of some heavy-duty changes like taking out a huge old hedge and moving plants from elsewhere in the garden to avoid huge expense for mature plants in the vacant area, I was bracing for my next water bill.



Right... highest in [censored] years on the plantation.



People do turn to xeroscapic gardening, promoted by City Hall, as well as covering the soil with stones/pebbles/bark, but I guess I'm not ready for such major change. At least not until I have recovered from recent month-long exertions...a few hours a day...light at end of tunnel...


Gosh I guess I will stop complaining about our lake level being down 18 inches. There is still plenty for the irrigation system I use to water.
MJ


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