Hi All,

My zuke seeds I planted eight days ago are
starting to poke the through. Yes, I am a proud
father!

I planted them three seeds to a hole. To my
surprise, all three are coming through. (When
I planted them two to a hole only one or none

Questions:

1) I presume I am suppose to only leave one
per hole. Am I correct?

2) If I am to prune them out

a) I presume I leave the tallest one. Am I correct?

b) how big do I let them grow before pruning?
Two inches?

c) how do prune? Use scissors and snip them of at
the dirt line?

Many thanks,
-T

Todd wrote:
Hi All,

My zuke seeds I planted eight days ago are
starting to poke the through. Yes, I am a proud
father!

I planted them three seeds to a hole. To my
surprise, all three are coming through. (When
I planted them two to a hole only one or none

Questions:

1) I presume I am suppose to only leave one
per hole. Am I correct?

2) If I am to prune them out

a) I presume I leave the tallest one. Am I correct?

b) how big do I let them grow before pruning?
Two inches?

c) how do prune? Use scissors and snip them of at
the dirt line?

Many thanks,
-T

The amount of growth will be limited by competition for water, nutrients
and sun not the number of plants. If you left them all it would make
little difference to the total just each would be smaller. If you want to
thin them wait until the true leaves (not the cotyledons) appear and open,
then choose the healthiest one and cut off the others. The main thing here
is not to damage the chosen one.

It is said that you should only sow cucurbits directly as they resent
transplanting. What they resent is root disturbance. You can avoid this
problem and wasting seed by planting in tubes, the tapered square-section
plastic kind about 12 cm (5 in) tall, that sit in a rack. They are often
used to raise tree and shrub seedlings. Plant one seed per tube and plant
out when the true leaves open. With care the soil plug with roots and all
will slide out in one chunk and can be planted with no root disturbance.

D

On 06/06/2014 08:21 PM, David Hare-Scott wrote:
Todd wrote:
Hi All,

My zuke seeds I planted eight days ago are
starting to poke the through. Yes, I am a proud
father!

I planted them three seeds to a hole. To my
surprise, all three are coming through. (When
I planted them two to a hole only one or none

Questions:

1) I presume I am suppose to only leave one
per hole. Am I correct?

2) If I am to prune them out

a) I presume I leave the tallest one. Am I correct?

b) how big do I let them grow before pruning?
Two inches?

c) how do prune? Use scissors and snip them of at
the dirt line?

Many thanks,
-T

The amount of growth will be limited by competition for water,
nutrients and sun not the number of plants. If you left them all it
would make little difference to the total just each would be smaller.
If you want to thin them wait until the true leaves (not the cotyledons)
appear and open, then choose the healthiest one and cut off the others.
The main thing here is not to damage the chosen one.

It is said that you should only sow cucurbits directly as they resent
transplanting. What they resent is root disturbance. You can avoid this
problem and wasting seed by planting in tubes, the tapered
square-section plastic kind about 12 cm (5 in) tall, that sit in a
rack. They are often used to raise tree and shrub seedlings. Plant one
seed per tube and plant out when the true leaves open. With care the
soil plug with roots and all will slide out in one chunk and can be
planted with no root disturbance.

D

Thank you!

On Friday, June 6, 2014 8:21:08 PM UTC-7, David Hare-Scott wrote:
Todd wrote:

Hi All,



My zuke seeds I planted eight days ago are

starting to poke the through. Yes, I am a proud

father!



I planted them three seeds to a hole. To my

surprise, all three are coming through. (When

I planted them two to a hole only one or none



Questions:



1) I presume I am suppose to only leave one

per hole. Am I correct?



2) If I am to prune them out



a) I presume I leave the tallest one. Am I correct?



b) how big do I let them grow before pruning?

Two inches?



c) how do prune? Use scissors and snip them of at

the dirt line?



Many thanks,

-T



The amount of growth will be limited by competition for water, nutrients

and sun not the number of plants. If you left them all it would make

little difference to the total just each would be smaller. If you want to

thin them wait until the true leaves (not the cotyledons) appear and open,

then choose the healthiest one and cut off the others. The main thing here

is not to damage the chosen one.



It is said that you should only sow cucurbits directly as they resent

transplanting. What they resent is root disturbance. You can avoid this

problem and wasting seed by planting in tubes, the tapered square-section

plastic kind about 12 cm (5 in) tall, that sit in a rack. They are often

used to raise tree and shrub seedlings. Plant one seed per tube and plant

out when the true leaves open. With care the soil plug with roots and all

will slide out in one chunk and can be planted with no root disturbance.

Have never seen this Up Here. Any USA-ians know about product, what it's called, and where get it?

TIA

HB

Higgs Boson wrote:

It is said that you should only sow cucurbits directly as they resent

transplanting. What they resent is root disturbance. You can avoid
this

problem and wasting seed by planting in tubes, the tapered
square-section

plastic kind about 12 cm (5 in) tall, that sit in a rack. They are
often

used to raise tree and shrub seedlings. Plant one seed per tube and
plant

out when the true leaves open. With care the soil plug with roots
and all

will slide out in one chunk and can be planted with no root
disturbance.

Have never seen this Up Here. Any USA-ians know about product, what
it's called, and where get it?

TIA

HB

They come in round-section and square-section. I prefer square as the roots
don't go round and round. They also come in a fixed tray with many holes or
where each is separate and they sit in a rack. I prefer the latter as they
are easier to handle and to extract the plug one at a time.

I have hundreds that came with buying tubestock. They are called that
because they come in tubes, perhaps you call them nursery tubes or forestry
tubes.

http://www.arborgreen.com.au/product...mm,-720pk.html

Most hits seem to be in Oz, maybe they haven't made it to the world yet.

D

On 7/06/2014 4:39 PM, David Hare-Scott wrote:
Higgs Boson wrote:

It is said that you should only sow cucurbits directly as they resent
transplanting. What they resent is root disturbance. You can avoid
this problem and wasting seed by planting in tubes, the tapered
square-section plastic kind about 12 cm (5 in) tall, that sit in a rack. They are
often used to raise tree and shrub seedlings. Plant one seed per tube and
plant out when the true leaves open. With care the soil plug with roots
and all will slide out in one chunk and can be planted with no root
disturbance.

Have never seen this Up Here. Any USA-ians know about product, what
it's called, and where get it?

TIA

HB

They come in round-section and square-section. I prefer square as the
roots don't go round and round. They also come in a fixed tray with many
holes or where each is separate and they sit in a rack. I prefer the
latter as they are easier to handle and to extract the plug one at a time.

I too prefer the square pots and have many of them and the racks they
sit in from our days of planting out masses of trees in windbreaks. I
like the root pruning feature that is inherent in the design of these
pots 'cos I'm rather prone to forgetting to put things in the garden
before the roots grow through the bottom.

I have hundreds that came with buying tubestock. They are called that
because they come in tubes, perhaps you call them nursery tubes or
forestry tubes.

http://www.arborgreen.com.au/product...mm,-720pk.html


Most hits seem to be in Oz, maybe they haven't made it to the world yet.

Well isn't that interesting! I can't find any in the US either - the
nearest I can find is the following and it's not what you and I have and
are talking about as it's way too short:
http://www.landmarkplastic.com/ProductView/118/32/104

I found some in Italy called "square pot with grid bottom" that are close;
http://www.bamaplast.it/MM_S011_SCHEDA.cfm?id=17

Surely tubestock pots would have to be available in the US but Lord
knows what they are called. Hopefully some good google hound will tell
us their US name.

On Saturday, June 7, 2014 4:55:14 AM UTC-7, Fran Farmer wrote:
On 7/06/2014 4:39 PM, David Hare-Scott wrote:

Higgs Boson wrote:



It is said that you should only sow cucurbits directly as they resent

transplanting. What they resent is root disturbance. You can avoid

this problem and wasting seed by planting in tubes, the tapered

square-section plastic kind about 12 cm (5 in) tall, that sit in a rack. They are

often used to raise tree and shrub seedlings. Plant one seed per tube and

plant out when the true leaves open. With care the soil plug with roots

and all will slide out in one chunk and can be planted with no root

disturbance.



Have never seen this Up Here. Any USA-ians know about product, what

it's called, and where get it?



TIA



HB



They come in round-section and square-section. I prefer square as the

roots don't go round and round. They also come in a fixed tray with many

holes or where each is separate and they sit in a rack. I prefer the

latter as they are easier to handle and to extract the plug one at a time.



I too prefer the square pots and have many of them and the racks they

sit in from our days of planting out masses of trees in windbreaks. I

like the root pruning feature that is inherent in the design of these

pots 'cos I'm rather prone to forgetting to put things in the garden

before the roots grow through the bottom.



I have hundreds that came with buying tubestock. They are called that

because they come in tubes, perhaps you call them nursery tubes or

forestry tubes.



http://www.arborgreen.com.au/product...mm,-720pk.html

Most hits seem to be in Oz, maybe they haven't made it to the world yet.

Sweetie - you ARE in the world, and a very interesting part of the world g
(As a card-carrying Antarctic freak, I am re-reading book about Douglas Mawson.)

Having viewed your site, I see what they mean by "tube". I was envisioning something like a glass laboratory tube.

HB

Well isn't that interesting! I can't find any in the US either - the

nearest I can find is the following and it's not what you and I have and

are talking about as it's way too short:

http://www.landmarkplastic.com/ProductView/118/32/104



I found some in Italy called "square pot with grid bottom" that are close;

http://www.bamaplast.it/MM_S011_SCHEDA.cfm?id=17



Surely tubestock pots would have to be available in the US but Lord
knows what they are called. Hopefully some good google hound will tell
us their US name.

Fran Farmer wrote:
On 7/06/2014 4:39 PM, David Hare-Scott wrote:
Higgs Boson wrote:

It is said that you should only sow cucurbits directly as they
resent transplanting. What they resent is root disturbance. You
can avoid this problem and wasting seed by planting in tubes, the
tapered
square-section plastic kind about 12 cm (5 in) tall, that sit in a
rack. They are often used to raise tree and shrub seedlings. Plant one
seed per tube and plant out when the true leaves open. With care the
soil plug with
roots and all will slide out in one chunk and can be planted with no
root
disturbance.

Have never seen this Up Here. Any USA-ians know about product, what
it's called, and where get it?

TIA

HB

They come in round-section and square-section. I prefer square as
the roots don't go round and round. They also come in a fixed tray
with many holes or where each is separate and they sit in a rack. I
prefer the latter as they are easier to handle and to extract the
plug one at a time.

I too prefer the square pots and have many of them and the racks they
sit in from our days of planting out masses of trees in windbreaks. I
like the root pruning feature that is inherent in the design of these
pots 'cos I'm rather prone to forgetting to put things in the garden
before the roots grow through the bottom.

I have hundreds that came with buying tubestock. They are called
that because they come in tubes, perhaps you call them nursery tubes
or forestry tubes.

http://www.arborgreen.com.au/product...mm,-720pk.html


Most hits seem to be in Oz, maybe they haven't made it to the world
yet.

Well isn't that interesting! I can't find any in the US either - the
nearest I can find is the following and it's not what you and I have
and are talking about as it's way too short:
http://www.landmarkplastic.com/ProductView/118/32/104

Too short, the roots need to go down not sideways. Part of the design is to
stop root binding and to give the seedling a head start with some deep roots
as soon as it is planted out. This sort wont do that.


I found some in Italy called "square pot with grid bottom" that are
close; http://www.bamaplast.it/MM_S011_SCHEDA.cfm?id=17

More like it.


Surely tubestock pots would have to be available in the US but Lord
knows what they are called. Hopefully some good google hound will
tell us their US name.

Dunno. I suggest contacting the nearest forestry division or company who
would be most likely to have use of them.

D

On 8/06/2014 5:22 AM, Higgs Boson wrote:
On Saturday, June 7, 2014 4:55:14 AM UTC-7, Fran Farmer wrote:
On 7/06/2014 4:39 PM, David Hare-Scott wrote:

Higgs Boson wrote:



It is said that you should only sow cucurbits directly as they resent

transplanting. What they resent is root disturbance. You can avoid

this problem and wasting seed by planting in tubes, the tapered

square-section plastic kind about 12 cm (5 in) tall, that sit in a rack. They are

often used to raise tree and shrub seedlings. Plant one seed per tube and

plant out when the true leaves open. With care the soil plug with roots

and all will slide out in one chunk and can be planted with no root

disturbance.



Have never seen this Up Here. Any USA-ians know about product, what

it's called, and where get it?



TIA



HB



They come in round-section and square-section. I prefer square as the

roots don't go round and round. They also come in a fixed tray with many

holes or where each is separate and they sit in a rack. I prefer the

latter as they are easier to handle and to extract the plug one at a time.



I too prefer the square pots and have many of them and the racks they

sit in from our days of planting out masses of trees in windbreaks. I

like the root pruning feature that is inherent in the design of these

pots 'cos I'm rather prone to forgetting to put things in the garden

before the roots grow through the bottom.



I have hundreds that came with buying tubestock. They are called that

because they come in tubes, perhaps you call them nursery tubes or

forestry tubes.



http://www.arborgreen.com.au/product...mm,-720pk.html

Most hits seem to be in Oz, maybe they haven't made it to the world yet.

Sweetie- you ARE in the world,

Hmmmm. I have a strong suspicion that David wouldn't like being called
'sweetie' by a bloke (regardless of an interest in Mawson and
Antarctica) ;-))


and a very interesting part of the world g
(As a card-carrying Antarctic freak, I am re-reading book about Douglas Mawson.)

Having viewed your site, I see what they mean by "tube". I was envisioning something like a glass laboratory tube.

HB

Well isn't that interesting! I can't find any in the US either - the

nearest I can find is the following and it's not what you and I have and

are talking about as it's way too short:

http://www.landmarkplastic.com/ProductView/118/32/104



I found some in Italy called "square pot with grid bottom" that are close;

http://www.bamaplast.it/MM_S011_SCHEDA.cfm?id=17



Surely tubestock pots would have to be available in the US but Lord
knows what they are called. Hopefully some good google hound will tell
us their US name.

On 8/06/2014 9:38 AM, David Hare-Scott wrote:
Fran Farmer wrote:
On 7/06/2014 4:39 PM, David Hare-Scott wrote:
Higgs Boson wrote:

It is said that you should only sow cucurbits directly as they
resent transplanting. What they resent is root disturbance. You
can avoid this problem and wasting seed by planting in tubes, the
tapered
square-section plastic kind about 12 cm (5 in) tall, that sit in a
rack. They are often used to raise tree and shrub seedlings. Plant
one seed per tube and plant out when the true leaves open. With
care the soil plug with
roots and all will slide out in one chunk and can be planted with
no root
disturbance.

Have never seen this Up Here. Any USA-ians know about product, what
it's called, and where get it?

TIA

HB

They come in round-section and square-section. I prefer square as
the roots don't go round and round. They also come in a fixed tray
with many holes or where each is separate and they sit in a rack. I
prefer the latter as they are easier to handle and to extract the
plug one at a time.

I too prefer the square pots and have many of them and the racks they
sit in from our days of planting out masses of trees in windbreaks. I
like the root pruning feature that is inherent in the design of these
pots 'cos I'm rather prone to forgetting to put things in the garden
before the roots grow through the bottom.

I have hundreds that came with buying tubestock. They are called
that because they come in tubes, perhaps you call them nursery tubes
or forestry tubes.

http://www.arborgreen.com.au/product...mm,-720pk.html



Most hits seem to be in Oz, maybe they haven't made it to the world
yet.

Well isn't that interesting! I can't find any in the US either - the
nearest I can find is the following and it's not what you and I have
and are talking about as it's way too short:
http://www.landmarkplastic.com/ProductView/118/32/104

Too short, the roots need to go down not sideways. Part of the design
is to stop root binding and to give the seedling a head start with some
deep roots as soon as it is planted out. This sort wont do that.


I found some in Italy called "square pot with grid bottom" that are
close; http://www.bamaplast.it/MM_S011_SCHEDA.cfm?id=17

More like it.


Surely tubestock pots would have to be available in the US but Lord
knows what they are called. Hopefully some good google hound will
tell us their US name.

Dunno. I suggest contacting the nearest forestry division or company
who would be most likely to have use of them.

I don't need to contact them. As I said above, I've got lots of them.
Higgs might be interested in doing so though.

On 06/06/2014 08:21 PM, David Hare-Scott wrote:
The amount of growth will be limited by competition for water,
nutrients and sun not the number of plants. If you left them all it
would make little difference to the total just each would be smaller.
If you want to thin them wait until the true leaves (not the cotyledons)
appear and open, then choose the healthiest one and cut off the others.
The main thing here is not to damage the chosen one.

Hi David,

Question: which will get me more fruit? Three smaller
plants crowding each other or one larger plant?

-T

On Mon, 09 Jun 2014 21:15:51 -0700, Todd wrote:

On 06/06/2014 08:21 PM, David Hare-Scott wrote:
The amount of growth will be limited by competition for water,
nutrients and sun not the number of plants. If you left them all it
would make little difference to the total just each would be smaller.
If you want to thin them wait until the true leaves (not the cotyledons)
appear and open, then choose the healthiest one and cut off the others.
The main thing here is not to damage the chosen one.

Hi David,

Question: which will get me more fruit? Three smaller
plants crowding each other or one larger plant?

There is no way to know for certain in advance especially without
knowing the type of zuke plant; bush/vining?. Do you want a greater
number of fruit or larger/heavier fruit? You'll get the greatest
number of better quality fruit by harvesting often before the fruit
become too large.. in the end by harvesting smaller fruit often
there's a much better chance of ending up with more fruit by weight
and also better quality fruit. It's best to harvest zukes when
they're 4"-6" long, then the plant will keep putting out more in its
quest to reproduce by producing viable seed... by allowing fruit to
become large and seedy the plant will stop producing.

Todd wrote:
Brooklyn1 wrote:
Todd wrote:
David Hare-Scott wrote:
The amount of growth will be limited by competition for water,
nutrients and sun not the number of plants. If you left them all it
would make little difference to the total just each would be smaller.
If you want to thin them wait until the true leaves (not the cotyledons)
appear and open, then choose the healthiest one and cut off the others.
The main thing here is not to damage the chosen one.

Question: which will get me more fruit? Three smaller
plants crowding each other or one larger plant?

There is no way to know for certain in advance especially without
knowing the type of zuke plant; bush/vining?. Do you want a greater
number of fruit or larger/heavier fruit? You'll get the greatest
number of better quality fruit by harvesting often before the fruit
become too large.. in the end by harvesting smaller fruit often
there's a much better chance of ending up with more fruit by weight
and also better quality fruit. It's best to harvest zukes when
they're 4"-6" long, then the plant will keep putting out more in its
quest to reproduce by producing viable seed... by allowing fruit to
become large and seedy the plant will stop producing.

They are "Squash, Italian Ribbed Zucchini" A.K.A "Costata
Romanesco".

http://www.burpee.com/heirloom-seeds...rod002006.html

I did notice that if you let the fruit get the size of a club
(fun to scare the neighbors), that the plant will stop
producing. Was told on this group that the plant thinks it
is "finished".

I have been told if you want a lot of produce, to grow
zucchini. "You'll have so many, you'll have to give them
away." I think someone is pulling my leg. But I keep trying.

Now that you know the type of squash, do you think I
should prune or leave all three sprouts?

Thank you for helping me with this.

Depends how close together... sometimes if the sprouts are a half inch
or more apart they can be carefully separated and all three planted.
If they are right up against each other I'd save the best one and snip
the other two. The best way to increase yield is to plant more
zucchini, seeds are cheap. The best way to use up a bonanza of
zucchini is slice them in half longitudinally, brush the cut surface
lightly with olive oil and dust them with favorite seasonings; s n'p,
and dago herb blend... then grill them. They'll be very tasty
so will be consumed in quantity.

Todd wrote:
On 06/06/2014 08:21 PM, David Hare-Scott wrote:
The amount of growth will be limited by competition for water,
nutrients and sun not the number of plants. If you left them all it
would make little difference to the total just each would be smaller.
If you want to thin them wait until the true leaves (not the
cotyledons) appear and open, then choose the healthiest one and cut
off the others. The main thing here is not to damage the chosen one.

Hi David,

Question: which will get me more fruit? Three smaller
plants crowding each other or one larger plant?

-T

As said above IMHO little difference.

D