I'm in zone 6 and our guide books tell us that for taking care of lilacs and
systemic insecticide must be used. What exactly is that and what makes it
different from a regular insecticide?

On Mon, 12 May 2003 23:04:36 GMT, "seepnezorf1" wrote:

I'm in zone 6 and our guide books tell us that for taking care of lilacs and
systemic insecticide must be used. What exactly is that and what makes it
different from a regular insecticide?

Oh, it not only poisons all the above ground insects who pierce and suck or chew
foliage, but it kill soil biota as well. Do you have a problem with insects
right now? If not,why do you need a systemic? A systemic is a pesticide which
is taken up into the plant by its roots and makes toxic every cell in the entire
plant and most of the soil the plant is in.

Shame on you for being too lazy to do a google search for "systemic
insecticide".

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&l...q=systemic+ins
ecticide+definition&btnG=Google+Search


seepnezorf1 wrote in message
news:8MVva.818982$3D1.461701@sccrnsc01...
I'm in zone 6 and our guide books tell us that for taking care of lilacs
and
systemic insecticide must be used. What exactly is that and what makes it
different from a regular insecticide?

In article 8MVva.818982$3D1.461701@sccrnsc01,
says...
I'm in zone 6 and our guide books tell us that for taking care of lilacs and
systemic insecticide must be used. What exactly is that and what makes it
different from a regular insecticide?

Systemic materials will be taken up in the roots and
absorbed through the leaves so that insects that feed on
the plant will be targeted, where other formulations
will be basically a topical application leaving a
residue on the plant rather than in the plant.

--
Good judgment comes from experience,
and a lot of that comes from bad judgment.


Lar. (to e-mail, get rid of the BUGS!!

If you dont have an insect problem, then you dont need to apply anything. You
cannot really prevent insects, you can only treat them when they are there.

Toad

But you CAN develop a healthy environment where the damaging insects
are out competed and kept to a minimum. Learn to use quality compost
compost tea and plant based fertilizers.




On 13 May 2003 01:12:09 GMT, (Marley1372) wrote:

You
cannot really prevent insects, you can only treat them when they are there.

Toad



"Nature, left alone, is in perfect balance.
Harmful insects and plant diseases are always present,
but do not occur in nature to an extent which requires the use of poisonous chemicals.
The sensible approach to disease and insect control is to grow sturdy crops in a healthy environment."

Masanobu Fukuoka, One Straw Revolution--1978

Why do you feel you need any kind of insecticide for lilacs? They are one
of the most carefree shrubs around. I am also in zone 6, and on old
farmsteads you can see neglected lilacs that have grown into huge healthy
specimens that bloom freely. I've never noticed any insect infestations of
any kind on my own lilacs. Please don't spread chemicals around
indiscriminately.

I'm curious as to which guide book is making this recommendation. Is it
published by Ortho?

Sue

Zone 6, Southcentral PA

"seepnezorf1" wrote in message
news:8MVva.818982$3D1.461701@sccrnsc01...
I'm in zone 6 and our guide books tell us that for taking care of lilacs
and
systemic insecticide must be used. What exactly is that and what makes it
different from a regular insecticide?

On Mon, 12 May 2003 23:04:36 GMT, "seepnezorf1"
wrote:

I'm in zone 6 and our guide books tell us that for taking care of lilacs and
systemic insecticide must be used. What exactly is that and what makes it
different from a regular insecticide?


A systemic insecticide is absorbed into the plant tissues, then kills
the insect when the plant is consumed. Other insecticides kill
insects by direct contact, usually blocking their breathing pores
(stoma) leading to suffacation. One advantage of a systemic
insecticide is that it remains active after a rain. Systemic
insecticides should not be used on human-edible plants.

On Tue, 13 May 2003 01:48:28 GMT, Phisherman wrote:

Systemic
insecticides should not be used on human-edible plants.

There is simply no good reason to use a systemic on ANY plant. After
16 years of managing large commercial gardens and 5 years of being
"icide" free I just don't get gardeners obsession with killing
everything that crawls, sucks, or bites. Regardless, entomophobia
abounds!



"Nature, left alone, is in perfect balance.
Harmful insects and plant diseases are always present,
but do not occur in nature to an extent which requires the use of poisonous chemicals.
The sensible approach to disease and insect control is to grow sturdy crops in a healthy environment."

Masanobu Fukuoka, One Straw Revolution--1978

our guide books tell us that for taking care of lilacs a systemic
insecticide must be used.

Which guide book? And taking care of what? Lilac borer?
A systemic insecticide is an insecticide which is absorbed into the plant and
makes it poisonous when the insect eats it. Its main advantage is that you
don't have to hit the insects to kill them. This is in contrast to contact
insecticides, which have to land on the insects to kill them. Each has
advantages. Systemic insecticides are surer and more effective, and need to be
used less often. On the other hand, they tend to be more toxic. The most common
systemic insecticide sold for home use, Orthenex, is relatively harmless, but
only sold for outdoor use. Contact insecticides, like pyrethrins, are safer and
approved for indoor use, but are less effective.
Iris,
Central NY, Zone 5a, Sunset Zone 40
"If we see light at the end of the tunnel, It's the light of the oncoming
train."
Robert Lowell (1917-1977)

Do you work for google? You always say "google search" are there any
other search engines you use?

Cereoid-UR12 wrote:
Shame on you for being too lazy to do a google search for "systemic
insecticide".

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&l...q=systemic+ins
ecticide+definition&btnG=Google+Search


seepnezorf1 wrote in message
news:8MVva.818982$3D1.461701@sccrnsc01...

I'm in zone 6 and our guide books tell us that for taking care of lilacs

and

systemic insecticide must be used. What exactly is that and what makes it
different from a regular insecticide?

. The most common
systemic insecticide sold for home use, Orthenex, is relatively harmless, but
only sold for outdoor use.

I would hardly call Orthenex harmless, even "relatively". It combines two of
Ortho's favorite toxins, Orthene and Funginex. Orthene is acephate, an
organophosphate neurotoxin or in laymen's terms, a nerve disrupter that results in
brain damage, among other things. Funginex is primarily triforine, a RUP classified
by the EPA as "highly toxic". Both of these substances have cumulative effects, so
repeated use can increase toxicity buildup.

DO NOT take anyone's "opinion" or recommendation as proper advice for using
pesticides, certainly not one derived from a source such as a newsgroup posting. Do
your own research. Determine exactly what is causing your problem - you can have
problems ID'd by extension offices, qualified consultants, horticulturists, even
skilled Master Gardeners can ID most common plant problems. Once you know what the
problem is, then investigate the ways you can control it, opting for the least
toxic or disruptive path first. Often, nothing is necessary and nature will put the
situation in balance. If you do elect to use pesticides, then it is your
responsibility to be well informed about their use and their potential dangers
BEFORE application. As always, read and follow the label instructions to the letter
and remember you can't prevent problems through the use of pesticides, but can only
attempt to control existing problems. The prevention parts comes from you - the
proper selection, placement and care of your plants is the only effective
prevention of plant problems.

good post!



On Tue, 13 May 2003 13:29:29 GMT, Pam wrote:




. The most common
systemic insecticide sold for home use, Orthenex, is relatively harmless, but
only sold for outdoor use.

I would hardly call Orthenex harmless, even "relatively". It combines two of
Ortho's favorite toxins, Orthene and Funginex. Orthene is acephate, an
organophosphate neurotoxin or in laymen's terms, a nerve disrupter that results in
brain damage, among other things. Funginex is primarily triforine, a RUP classified
by the EPA as "highly toxic". Both of these substances have cumulative effects, so
repeated use can increase toxicity buildup.

DO NOT take anyone's "opinion" or recommendation as proper advice for using
pesticides, certainly not one derived from a source such as a newsgroup posting. Do
your own research. Determine exactly what is causing your problem - you can have
problems ID'd by extension offices, qualified consultants, horticulturists, even
skilled Master Gardeners can ID most common plant problems. Once you know what the
problem is, then investigate the ways you can control it, opting for the least
toxic or disruptive path first. Often, nothing is necessary and nature will put the
situation in balance. If you do elect to use pesticides, then it is your
responsibility to be well informed about their use and their potential dangers
BEFORE application. As always, read and follow the label instructions to the letter
and remember you can't prevent problems through the use of pesticides, but can only
attempt to control existing problems. The prevention parts comes from you - the
proper selection, placement and care of your plants is the only effective
prevention of plant problems.



"Nature, left alone, is in perfect balance.
Harmful insects and plant diseases are always present,
but do not occur in nature to an extent which requires the use of poisonous chemicals.
The sensible approach to disease and insect control is to grow sturdy crops in a healthy environment."

Masanobu Fukuoka, One Straw Revolution--1978