we have a new home in Michigan, put down about 2" of topsoil over a
mostly clay base. We seeded the front about 3 months ago, and it is
growing slow but OK(no weeds). However, we planted the back about 7
weeks ago, the weeds are now really bad. I think the weed plants from
the neighborhood wend to seed and the weed seeds blew(floated) to the
back and implanted themselves in our back yard before the grass took.
Now I have about 80% grass / 20% weeds in our back yard. the grass is
still quite fine(small bladed). My question is: can I put down
chemicals(weed and feed) to kill the weeds? I am concerned about
killing the newly planted grass. We have about .75 acres in the back
and I DONT want to kill it all and re-seed HELP

Thanks,

Dean Mathews

Well you did not pick the best time to start the lawn. Fall is much
better than summer.

As for the weeds in the back. After seven weeks you should be able to
use a selective week killer (like 24D) with little harm to the grass. DO
NOT use a weed and feed. This is not the time for feeding your lawn. Wait
about a month. The end of September would be good and then use a fall type
of fertilizer (low nitrogen).

Weed and feed products are almost always bad for your lawn. You end up
using one or the other at the wrong time. The sell product, but they don't
do your lawn any favors.

--
Joseph E. Meehan

26 + 6 = 1 It's Irish Math


wrote in message
om...
we have a new home in Michigan, put down about 2" of topsoil over a
mostly clay base. We seeded the front about 3 months ago, and it is
growing slow but OK(no weeds). However, we planted the back about 7
weeks ago, the weeds are now really bad. I think the weed plants from
the neighborhood wend to seed and the weed seeds blew(floated) to the
back and implanted themselves in our back yard before the grass took.
Now I have about 80% grass / 20% weeds in our back yard. the grass is
still quite fine(small bladed). My question is: can I put down
chemicals(weed and feed) to kill the weeds? I am concerned about
killing the newly planted grass. We have about .75 acres in the back
and I DONT want to kill it all and re-seed HELP

Thanks,

Dean Mathews

On 20 Aug 2003 21:14:55 -0700, wrote:

we have a new home in Michigan, put down about 2" of topsoil over a
mostly clay base. We seeded the front about 3 months ago, and it is
growing slow but OK(no weeds). However, we planted the back about 7
weeks ago, the weeds are now really bad. I think the weed plants from
the neighborhood wend to seed and the weed seeds blew(floated) to the
back and implanted themselves in our back yard before the grass took.
Now I have about 80% grass / 20% weeds in our back yard. the grass is
still quite fine(small bladed). My question is: can I put down
chemicals(weed and feed) to kill the weeds? I am concerned about
killing the newly planted grass. We have about .75 acres in the back
and I DONT want to kill it all and re-seed HELP

Thanks,

Dean Mathews


Weed killers on new grass is a very harsh treatment. Weeds won't grow
well in a thick lawn, and that's what you need to strive to get.
What I'd recommend is mow short, put down more grass seed with starter
fertilizer now, then wait to spot treat the weeds next spring. The
young grass will be establishing their root system during the winter
months. Buy a good broadcast spreader (~$40) with a decent size bin
and putting down seed, fertilizer and other products will be quick and
easy. Please, avoid the weed-and-feed stuff.

Do not use weed control product on new young grass. The grass at this stage may
react severely to the chemicals and dye. Weeds may invade the grass at any time
and you may want to hand pull or spot treat the lawn but never use weed and
feed, pre-emergent, or treat the total lawn with killer at least for one year
of growth.

But then, on the other hand.............Yeah, I know, I'm arguing with my self.
The following is from Iowa State. The preceding posted info was from Top Turf,
a hydro-seeding company.
http://www.topturfsc.com/tips.htm

Broadleaf Weed Control
After you have completed the task of establishing your
lawn, you will notice broadleaf weeds germinate along
with the grass seedlings. Most broadleaf weeds can be
easily controlled with a broad spectrum herbicide after
the turf is established. It is safe to apply a herbicide
after the lawn has been mowed at least two times.
Prepared by Norman Hummel, former extension turfgrass
specialist, and Nick Christians, associate professor of
horticulture. Revised by Michael Agnew, extension turfgrass
specialist.

Thank You for all your advice. I decided to try to get the grass as
full as possible, thus 'smothering' out the weeds.

Thanks Guys/Gals

c (TOM KAN PA) wrote in message ...
But then, on the other hand.............Yeah, I know, I'm arguing with my self.
The following is from Iowa State. The preceding posted info was from Top Turf,
a hydro-seeding company.
http://www.topturfsc.com/tips.htm

Broadleaf Weed Control
After you have completed the task of establishing your
lawn, you will notice broadleaf weeds germinate along
with the grass seedlings. Most broadleaf weeds can be
easily controlled with a broad spectrum herbicide after
the turf is established. It is safe to apply a herbicide
after the lawn has been mowed at least two times.
Prepared by Norman Hummel, former extension turfgrass
specialist, and Nick Christians, associate professor of
horticulture. Revised by Michael Agnew, extension turfgrass
specialist.

As I have been explained to, dont quote me, but when you are growing grass
the roots must develop a CROWN in the soil.

This CROWN once developed will cover the roots and allows the grass to go
dormant, thus being able to grow back.

When you start new seed, the thing to remember is that it must constantly be
moist. When the seed is moist, and then dries up, it will not come back.

Fall is the best time to seed, but make sure it is not too late in the fall.
Once the seed freezes, its basically all over.

Using an overseeder is great because it actually cuts lines in your lawn and
brushes the seed into the cut lines so the seed makes direct contact with
the soil so you have a perfect combination, seed and soil. The only thing
missing now is the moisture, and that is why spring and fall are best.

If you have an irrigation system however, and are using it properly, you may
be able to over come this seasonal

problem.

Test an area first to see if it will work for you, and make sure to use a
Starter Fertilizer.

Once your grass is growing, get on a professional fertilizing program for
your area. You should be able to find in your local area someone to TEST
the soil. In our area, for $25, you can send a soil sample to JOHN DEMPSEY
and they will return you with he results of what you should do to optimize
your lawn.

You will get a report back giving you numbers such as 10-10 30, etc. Bring
this number to a real fertilization store, something like LESCO and they
will hook you up.



Good luck

IMHO

Danny