I'm preparing a new vegetable bed that runs between a stone patio and
the edge of a retaining wall.

http://members.aol.com/digitalvinyl66/2004-NewBed.jpg


The ground, especially closer to the retaining wall becomes very
saturated and is somewhat muddy at times. It is always the last part
of the ground to dry out. The entire area is sunken by about 3 inches
from the rest of the backyard and the stone patio.

I am looking at what to do to improve this area.

1) I have started to tear it up and till the lawn down into it. I am
looking to add peat moss, composted manure/humus. Also I'm going to
use some perlite and water absorbtion crystals (these dissolve after a
few years into potassium). I'm hoping they will absorb more of the
stnding water and give the ground more even moisture.

2) The amendments I had planned should raise the ground about an
inch-i'm guessing. Now I'm thinking I should shoot for two inches
higher. I think the runoff from the patio and the surounding lawns
drain to this areas due to slope.

3) I will look at the wal for clogged drainage holes if there are any.

4) I was looking to use flowers/short veggies along the edges. The
stone patio is north so the tall veggies will be close to it. The
retaining wall will get full sun in summertime. Are there
flowers/veggies that like wet feet? I'm hoping maybe I can make
better choices for the edges to compensate for lack of success in
better drainage.


I'm wondering if I should create a moat or drainage ditch to transfer
water twoard the edge of the rock wall. Maybe if we get a nice heavy
rain I can go out there and watch for patterns in the runoff.

Any suggestions are appreciated.

DiGiTAL ViNYL (no email)
Zone 6b/7, Westchester Co, NY, 1 mile off L.I.Sound
2nd year gardener

With an impervious hardscape surface next to the wet spot, you could
have a "rain garden" situation.
You will probaly need an under laymnet drain and a wall drain to be
sucessful.
http://www.aucklandcity.govt.nz/news...02/01/a10.asp. This
could be a cool project.



DigitalVinyl wrote:
=

I'm preparing a new vegetable bed that runs between a stone patio and
the edge of a retaining wall.
=

http://members.aol.com/digitalvinyl66/2004-NewBed.jpg
=

The ground, especially closer to the retaining wall becomes very
saturated and is somewhat muddy at times. It is always the last part
of the ground to dry out. The entire area is sunken by about 3 inches
from the rest of the backyard and the stone patio.
=

I am looking at what to do to improve this area.
=

1) I have started to tear it up and till the lawn down into it. I am
looking to add peat moss, composted manure/humus. Also I'm going to
use some perlite and water absorbtion crystals (these dissolve after a
few years into potassium). I'm hoping they will absorb more of the
stnding water and give the ground more even moisture.
=

2) The amendments I had planned should raise the ground about an
inch-i'm guessing. Now I'm thinking I should shoot for two inches
higher. I think the runoff from the patio and the surounding lawns
drain to this areas due to slope.
=

3) I will look at the wal for clogged drainage holes if there are any.
=

4) I was looking to use flowers/short veggies along the edges. The
stone patio is north so the tall veggies will be close to it. The
retaining wall will get full sun in summertime. Are there
flowers/veggies that like wet feet? I'm hoping maybe I can make
better choices for the edges to compensate for lack of success in
better drainage.
=

I'm wondering if I should create a moat or drainage ditch to transfer
water twoard the edge of the rock wall. Maybe if we get a nice heavy
rain I can go out there and watch for patterns in the runoff.
=

Any suggestions are appreciated.
=

DiGiTAL ViNYL (no email)
Zone 6b/7, Westchester Co, NY, 1 mile off L.I.Sound
2nd year gardener

-- =

Celestial Habitats by J. Kolenovsky
2003 Honorable Mention Award, Keep Houston Beautiful
=F4=BF=F4 - http://www.celestialhabitats.com - business
=F4=BF=F4 - http://www.hal-pc.org/~garden/personal.html - personal

Did you do the retaining wall yourself? If not, then how the water drains
out from behind the wall is a mystery that probably needs addressing. How is
the retaining wall laid? Can you see any daylighting perforated pipe that
seems to run back to the base of the retaing wall, or are there sufficient
weep holes in the wall?

Dave

"DigitalVinyl" wrote in message
...
I'm preparing a new vegetable bed that runs between a stone patio and
the edge of a retaining wall.

http://members.aol.com/digitalvinyl66/2004-NewBed.jpg


The ground, especially closer to the retaining wall becomes very
saturated and is somewhat muddy at times. It is always the last part
of the ground to dry out. The entire area is sunken by about 3 inches
from the rest of the backyard and the stone patio.

I am looking at what to do to improve this area.

1) I have started to tear it up and till the lawn down into it. I am
looking to add peat moss, composted manure/humus. Also I'm going to
use some perlite and water absorbtion crystals (these dissolve after a
few years into potassium). I'm hoping they will absorb more of the
stnding water and give the ground more even moisture.

2) The amendments I had planned should raise the ground about an
inch-i'm guessing. Now I'm thinking I should shoot for two inches
higher. I think the runoff from the patio and the surounding lawns
drain to this areas due to slope.

3) I will look at the wal for clogged drainage holes if there are any.

4) I was looking to use flowers/short veggies along the edges. The
stone patio is north so the tall veggies will be close to it. The
retaining wall will get full sun in summertime. Are there
flowers/veggies that like wet feet? I'm hoping maybe I can make
better choices for the edges to compensate for lack of success in
better drainage.


I'm wondering if I should create a moat or drainage ditch to transfer
water twoard the edge of the rock wall. Maybe if we get a nice heavy
rain I can go out there and watch for patterns in the runoff.

Any suggestions are appreciated.

DiGiTAL ViNYL (no email)
Zone 6b/7, Westchester Co, NY, 1 mile off L.I.Sound
2nd year gardener

Did you do the retaining wall yourself? If not, then how the water drains
out from behind the wall is a mystery that probably needs addressing. How is
the retaining wall laid? Can you see any daylighting perforated pipe that
seems to run back to the base of the retaing wall, or are there sufficient
weep holes in the wall?

Dave

"DigitalVinyl" wrote in message
...
I'm preparing a new vegetable bed that runs between a stone patio and
the edge of a retaining wall.

http://members.aol.com/digitalvinyl66/2004-NewBed.jpg


The ground, especially closer to the retaining wall becomes very
saturated and is somewhat muddy at times. It is always the last part
of the ground to dry out. The entire area is sunken by about 3 inches
from the rest of the backyard and the stone patio.

I am looking at what to do to improve this area.

1) I have started to tear it up and till the lawn down into it. I am
looking to add peat moss, composted manure/humus. Also I'm going to
use some perlite and water absorbtion crystals (these dissolve after a
few years into potassium). I'm hoping they will absorb more of the
stnding water and give the ground more even moisture.

2) The amendments I had planned should raise the ground about an
inch-i'm guessing. Now I'm thinking I should shoot for two inches
higher. I think the runoff from the patio and the surounding lawns
drain to this areas due to slope.

3) I will look at the wal for clogged drainage holes if there are any.

4) I was looking to use flowers/short veggies along the edges. The
stone patio is north so the tall veggies will be close to it. The
retaining wall will get full sun in summertime. Are there
flowers/veggies that like wet feet? I'm hoping maybe I can make
better choices for the edges to compensate for lack of success in
better drainage.


I'm wondering if I should create a moat or drainage ditch to transfer
water twoard the edge of the rock wall. Maybe if we get a nice heavy
rain I can go out there and watch for patterns in the runoff.

Any suggestions are appreciated.

DiGiTAL ViNYL (no email)
Zone 6b/7, Westchester Co, NY, 1 mile off L.I.Sound
2nd year gardener

DigitalVinyl wrote in message . ..
I'm preparing a new vegetable bed that runs between a stone patio and
the edge of a retaining wall.

http://members.aol.com/digitalvinyl66/2004-NewBed.jpg


The ground, especially closer to the retaining wall becomes very
saturated and is somewhat muddy at times. It is always the last part
of the ground to dry out. The entire area is sunken by about 3 inches
from the rest of the backyard and the stone patio.

I am looking at what to do to improve this area.

dig (vin?) this situation is actually quite good for a vegetable
raised bed, given time and preparation. I have a very similar
situation, and right now as I post this the paths in my veg garden are
under water, but in the beds (6 to 12 inches above the paths) all
sorts of overwintering veggies are doing very well. I placed the
garden there on purpose, to cut down on watering. But you will have to
raise the area much more than two inches. Find a source of organic
matter that will get you five inches at least above (you may have to
surround the area with cinder blocks to avoid erosion) and go a few
inches higher over time as you put down new mulch every year. If you
dig organic matter deeply enough, earthworms should break down the
patch down to one foot within two years.


1) I have started to tear it up and till the lawn down into it. I am
looking to add peat moss, composted manure/humus. Also I'm going to
use some perlite and water absorbtion crystals (these dissolve after a
few years into potassium). I'm hoping they will absorb more of the
stnding water and give the ground more even moisture.

You don't reall have to use composted stuff, specially if you have
clay and you are digging it in. Coarse matter makes empty pockets in
the soil that you need at this time. You could consider tilling in
coarse matter, rake it to smooth things some, and finish it all with
one inch of fine compost at the top.


2) The amendments I had planned should raise the ground about an
inch-i'm guessing. Now I'm thinking I should shoot for two inches
higher. I think the runoff from the patio and the surounding lawns
drain to this areas due to slope.

Yes, I have a sloping patio draining into my herb garden (which has
sandy soil, with a wood chip mulch) and I never have to water or
fertilize it. One of the very few smart things I have done. I also
have a mint patch near each gutter on the sunny side of my house.


3) I will look at the wal for clogged drainage holes if there are any.

Once the soil is broken, you will enjoy the extra watering.


4) I was looking to use flowers/short veggies along the edges. The
stone patio is north so the tall veggies will be close to it. The
retaining wall will get full sun in summertime. Are there
flowers/veggies that like wet feet? I'm hoping maybe I can make
better choices for the edges to compensate for lack of success in
better drainage.


Some veggies do like wet feet. Amongst them celery, radish,
horseradish and cardoon (started cardoons last night). Several greens
and some beans like fava will tolerate wet feet. Amongst those that do
not like wet feet at all: tomatoes and garlic. Then you have the
veggies that help break down the soil. Mache, fava, chicory,
dandelion, and generally those with tap roots. All these go down four
feet or more, effectively giving you extra capillary drain channels.


I'm wondering if I should create a moat or drainage ditch to transfer
water twoard the edge of the rock wall. Maybe if we get a nice heavy
rain I can go out there and watch for patterns in the runoff.

Any suggestions are appreciated.

I think that the extra bulk of organic matter will make most of the
difference for you, with increased water absorption, food for
earthworms who will break down the soil, pockets of air, and mostly
giving the plants a few inches of soil to breath after a rain. I would
not give up free watering if I had the choice.

If I were you I would have dandelion and radicchio and cardoon in the
last few feet of garden for the first two years (these are all ready
to eat only after first frost in the fall. they will all probably
overwinter there), and have summer veggies closer to the patio. (you
probably need to plant them thickly in the first year, to break down
things as much as possible - you could consider mache as a ground
cover for cardoon). I would start at five inches and, assuming
nutrients are at the right level, just give them some mulch every
year.
Since you are in Zone 7, and the area seems to be sheltered, you could
consider one crop of overwintering fava beans for extra soil break
down, organic matter, and nitrogen fixing.

"David J Bockman" wrote:

Did you do the retaining wall yourself? If not, then how the water drains
out from behind the wall is a mystery that probably needs addressing. How is
the retaining wall laid? Can you see any daylighting perforated pipe that
seems to run back to the base of the retaing wall, or are there sufficient
weep holes in the wall?

I rent the first floor of the house. The wall has been there 15-30
years. It is a rough/jagged stone wall. I'm guessing there may be
concrete binding it together but I don't recall seeing obvious amounts
of concerete. When it stops raining I'll go take a look. Last year I
recall seeing openings inbetween rocks into dirty pockets (Cicada
Killer Wasps were digging nests in some) I'm not sure if they are
intentional drains or not. I had intended to find and dig into them to
see if there is a physical pipe there. If I dig down deep enough maybe
I could do something to cause better drainage. The ground closer to
the wall definitely doesn't drain well. The lawn further away will be
firm after a rain while closer to the wall it is still soft and wet to
muddy.

DiGiTAL ViNYL (no email)
Zone 6b/7, Westchester Co, NY, 1 mile off L.I.Sound
2nd year gardener

"David J Bockman" wrote:

Did you do the retaining wall yourself? If not, then how the water drains
out from behind the wall is a mystery that probably needs addressing. How is
the retaining wall laid? Can you see any daylighting perforated pipe that
seems to run back to the base of the retaing wall, or are there sufficient
weep holes in the wall?

http://members.aol.com/digitalvinyl6...ngWall-med.jpg

Just checked outside. There is no concrete just placed stone with
dirt and plants growing out a bunch of the holes. There is plenty of
places for moisture to seep through. And the lower ground (at base of
wall) is also a damp area. The whole back of the proerty is downhil
from the front street.
DiGiTAL ViNYL (no email)
Zone 6b/7, Westchester Co, NY, 1 mile off L.I.Sound
2nd year gardener

J Kolenovsky wrote:

With an impervious hardscape surface next to the wet spot, you could
have a "rain garden" situation.
You will probaly need an under laymnet drain and a wall drain to be
sucessful.
http://www.aucklandcity.govt.nz/news...02/01/a10.asp. This
could be a cool project.

That's an interesting idea. Looks like a layer of rock,sand, then
soil. I'm assuming those for filtration as well as drainage. I could
try to do a section like that and see what end-of-season looks like

DiGiTAL ViNYL (no email)
Zone 6b/7, Westchester Co, NY, 1 mile off L.I.Sound
2nd year gardener

(simy1) wrote:

DigitalVinyl wrote in message . ..
I'm preparing a new vegetable bed that runs between a stone patio and
the edge of a retaining wall.

http://members.aol.com/digitalvinyl66/2004-NewBed.jpg


The ground, especially closer to the retaining wall becomes very
saturated and is somewhat muddy at times. It is always the last part
of the ground to dry out. The entire area is sunken by about 3 inches
from the rest of the backyard and the stone patio.

I am looking at what to do to improve this area.

dig (vin?) this situation is actually quite good for a vegetable
raised bed, given time and preparation. I have a very similar
situation, and right now as I post this the paths in my veg garden are
under water, but in the beds (6 to 12 inches above the paths) all
sorts of overwintering veggies are doing very well. I placed the
garden there on purpose, to cut down on watering. But you will have to
raise the area much more than two inches. Find a source of organic
matter that will get you five inches at least above (you may have to
surround the area with cinder blocks to avoid erosion) and go a few
inches higher over time as you put down new mulch every year. If you
dig organic matter deeply enough, earthworms should break down the
patch down to one foot within two years.

Actually that is a good idea. Just setup raised beds. WOuld at least
guarantee good drrainage for the first 6 inches or so.

1) I have started to tear it up and till the lawn down into it. I am
looking to add peat moss, composted manure/humus. Also I'm going to
use some perlite and water absorbtion crystals (these dissolve after a
few years into potassium). I'm hoping they will absorb more of the
stnding water and give the ground more even moisture.

You don't reall have to use composted stuff, specially if you have
clay and you are digging it in.
I've already turned some of it and it actually look like 6-8 inches of
good topsoil. Saw very little rocks or filler. The only thing that has
gron there for decades is grass, weeds and moss.

Coarse matter makes empty pockets in
the soil that you need at this time. You could consider tilling in
coarse matter, rake it to smooth things some, and finish it all with
one inch of fine compost at the top.


2) The amendments I had planned should raise the ground about an
inch-i'm guessing. Now I'm thinking I should shoot for two inches
higher. I think the runoff from the patio and the surounding lawns
drain to this areas due to slope.

Yes, I have a sloping patio draining into my herb garden (which has
sandy soil, with a wood chip mulch) and I never have to water or
fertilize it. One of the very few smart things I have done. I also
have a mint patch near each gutter on the sunny side of my house.

But this isn't just well watered its muddy. And even the grass dies in
patches and it is bare. Then Moss spring up.

3) I will look at the wal for clogged drainage holes if there are any.

Once the soil is broken, you will enjoy the extra watering.


4) I was looking to use flowers/short veggies along the edges. The
stone patio is north so the tall veggies will be close to it. The
retaining wall will get full sun in summertime. Are there
flowers/veggies that like wet feet? I'm hoping maybe I can make
better choices for the edges to compensate for lack of success in
better drainage.


Some veggies do like wet feet. Amongst them celery, radish,
horseradish and cardoon (started cardoons last night). Several greens
and some beans like fava will tolerate wet feet. Amongst those that do
not like wet feet at all: tomatoes and garlic. Then you have the
veggies that help break down the soil. Mache, fava, chicory,
dandelion, and generally those with tap roots. All these go down four
feet or more, effectively giving you extra capillary drain channels.


I'm wondering if I should create a moat or drainage ditch to transfer
water twoard the edge of the rock wall. Maybe if we get a nice heavy
rain I can go out there and watch for patterns in the runoff.

Any suggestions are appreciated.

I think that the extra bulk of organic matter will make most of the
difference for you, with increased water absorption, food for
earthworms who will break down the soil, pockets of air, and mostly
giving the plants a few inches of soil to breath after a rain. I would
not give up free watering if I had the choice.

If I were you I would have dandelion and radicchio and cardoon in the
last few feet of garden for the first two years (these are all ready
to eat only after first frost in the fall. they will all probably
overwinter there), and have summer veggies closer to the patio. (you
probably need to plant them thickly in the first year, to break down
things as much as possible - you could consider mache as a ground
cover for cardoon). I would start at five inches and, assuming
nutrients are at the right level, just give them some mulch every
year.
Since you are in Zone 7, and the area seems to be sheltered, you could
consider one crop of overwintering fava beans for extra soil break
down, organic matter, and nitrogen fixing.
Thanks.
DiGiTAL ViNYL (no email)
Zone 6b/7, Westchester Co, NY, 1 mile off L.I.Sound
2nd year gardener

(simy1) wrote:

DigitalVinyl wrote in message . ..
I'm preparing a new vegetable bed that runs between a stone patio and
the edge of a retaining wall.

http://members.aol.com/digitalvinyl66/2004-NewBed.jpg


The ground, especially closer to the retaining wall becomes very
saturated and is somewhat muddy at times. It is always the last part
of the ground to dry out. The entire area is sunken by about 3 inches
from the rest of the backyard and the stone patio.

I am looking at what to do to improve this area.

dig (vin?) this situation is actually quite good for a vegetable
raised bed, given time and preparation. I have a very similar
situation, and right now as I post this the paths in my veg garden are
under water, but in the beds (6 to 12 inches above the paths) all
sorts of overwintering veggies are doing very well. I placed the
garden there on purpose, to cut down on watering. But you will have to
raise the area much more than two inches. Find a source of organic
matter that will get you five inches at least above (you may have to
surround the area with cinder blocks to avoid erosion) and go a few
inches higher over time as you put down new mulch every year. If you
dig organic matter deeply enough, earthworms should break down the
patch down to one foot within two years.

Actually that is a good idea. Just setup raised beds. WOuld at least
guarantee good drrainage for the first 6 inches or so.

1) I have started to tear it up and till the lawn down into it. I am
looking to add peat moss, composted manure/humus. Also I'm going to
use some perlite and water absorbtion crystals (these dissolve after a
few years into potassium). I'm hoping they will absorb more of the
stnding water and give the ground more even moisture.

You don't reall have to use composted stuff, specially if you have
clay and you are digging it in.
I've already turned some of it and it actually look like 6-8 inches of
good topsoil. Saw very little rocks or filler. The only thing that has
gron there for decades is grass, weeds and moss.

Coarse matter makes empty pockets in
the soil that you need at this time. You could consider tilling in
coarse matter, rake it to smooth things some, and finish it all with
one inch of fine compost at the top.


2) The amendments I had planned should raise the ground about an
inch-i'm guessing. Now I'm thinking I should shoot for two inches
higher. I think the runoff from the patio and the surounding lawns
drain to this areas due to slope.

Yes, I have a sloping patio draining into my herb garden (which has
sandy soil, with a wood chip mulch) and I never have to water or
fertilize it. One of the very few smart things I have done. I also
have a mint patch near each gutter on the sunny side of my house.

But this isn't just well watered its muddy. And even the grass dies in
patches and it is bare. Then Moss spring up.

3) I will look at the wal for clogged drainage holes if there are any.

Once the soil is broken, you will enjoy the extra watering.


4) I was looking to use flowers/short veggies along the edges. The
stone patio is north so the tall veggies will be close to it. The
retaining wall will get full sun in summertime. Are there
flowers/veggies that like wet feet? I'm hoping maybe I can make
better choices for the edges to compensate for lack of success in
better drainage.


Some veggies do like wet feet. Amongst them celery, radish,
horseradish and cardoon (started cardoons last night). Several greens
and some beans like fava will tolerate wet feet. Amongst those that do
not like wet feet at all: tomatoes and garlic. Then you have the
veggies that help break down the soil. Mache, fava, chicory,
dandelion, and generally those with tap roots. All these go down four
feet or more, effectively giving you extra capillary drain channels.


I'm wondering if I should create a moat or drainage ditch to transfer
water twoard the edge of the rock wall. Maybe if we get a nice heavy
rain I can go out there and watch for patterns in the runoff.

Any suggestions are appreciated.

I think that the extra bulk of organic matter will make most of the
difference for you, with increased water absorption, food for
earthworms who will break down the soil, pockets of air, and mostly
giving the plants a few inches of soil to breath after a rain. I would
not give up free watering if I had the choice.

If I were you I would have dandelion and radicchio and cardoon in the
last few feet of garden for the first two years (these are all ready
to eat only after first frost in the fall. they will all probably
overwinter there), and have summer veggies closer to the patio. (you
probably need to plant them thickly in the first year, to break down
things as much as possible - you could consider mache as a ground
cover for cardoon). I would start at five inches and, assuming
nutrients are at the right level, just give them some mulch every
year.
Since you are in Zone 7, and the area seems to be sheltered, you could
consider one crop of overwintering fava beans for extra soil break
down, organic matter, and nitrogen fixing.
Thanks.
DiGiTAL ViNYL (no email)
Zone 6b/7, Westchester Co, NY, 1 mile off L.I.Sound
2nd year gardener

(simy1) wrote:

DigitalVinyl wrote in message . ..
I'm preparing a new vegetable bed that runs between a stone patio and
the edge of a retaining wall.

http://members.aol.com/digitalvinyl66/2004-NewBed.jpg


The ground, especially closer to the retaining wall becomes very
saturated and is somewhat muddy at times. It is always the last part
of the ground to dry out. The entire area is sunken by about 3 inches
from the rest of the backyard and the stone patio.

I am looking at what to do to improve this area.

dig (vin?) this situation is actually quite good for a vegetable
raised bed, given time and preparation. I have a very similar
situation, and right now as I post this the paths in my veg garden are
under water, but in the beds (6 to 12 inches above the paths) all
sorts of overwintering veggies are doing very well. I placed the
garden there on purpose, to cut down on watering. But you will have to
raise the area much more than two inches. Find a source of organic
matter that will get you five inches at least above (you may have to
surround the area with cinder blocks to avoid erosion) and go a few
inches higher over time as you put down new mulch every year. If you
dig organic matter deeply enough, earthworms should break down the
patch down to one foot within two years.

Actually that is a good idea. Just setup raised beds. WOuld at least
guarantee good drrainage for the first 6 inches or so.

1) I have started to tear it up and till the lawn down into it. I am
looking to add peat moss, composted manure/humus. Also I'm going to
use some perlite and water absorbtion crystals (these dissolve after a
few years into potassium). I'm hoping they will absorb more of the
stnding water and give the ground more even moisture.

You don't reall have to use composted stuff, specially if you have
clay and you are digging it in.
I've already turned some of it and it actually look like 6-8 inches of
good topsoil. Saw very little rocks or filler. The only thing that has
gron there for decades is grass, weeds and moss.

Coarse matter makes empty pockets in
the soil that you need at this time. You could consider tilling in
coarse matter, rake it to smooth things some, and finish it all with
one inch of fine compost at the top.


2) The amendments I had planned should raise the ground about an
inch-i'm guessing. Now I'm thinking I should shoot for two inches
higher. I think the runoff from the patio and the surounding lawns
drain to this areas due to slope.

Yes, I have a sloping patio draining into my herb garden (which has
sandy soil, with a wood chip mulch) and I never have to water or
fertilize it. One of the very few smart things I have done. I also
have a mint patch near each gutter on the sunny side of my house.

But this isn't just well watered its muddy. And even the grass dies in
patches and it is bare. Then Moss spring up.

3) I will look at the wal for clogged drainage holes if there are any.

Once the soil is broken, you will enjoy the extra watering.


4) I was looking to use flowers/short veggies along the edges. The
stone patio is north so the tall veggies will be close to it. The
retaining wall will get full sun in summertime. Are there
flowers/veggies that like wet feet? I'm hoping maybe I can make
better choices for the edges to compensate for lack of success in
better drainage.


Some veggies do like wet feet. Amongst them celery, radish,
horseradish and cardoon (started cardoons last night). Several greens
and some beans like fava will tolerate wet feet. Amongst those that do
not like wet feet at all: tomatoes and garlic. Then you have the
veggies that help break down the soil. Mache, fava, chicory,
dandelion, and generally those with tap roots. All these go down four
feet or more, effectively giving you extra capillary drain channels.


I'm wondering if I should create a moat or drainage ditch to transfer
water twoard the edge of the rock wall. Maybe if we get a nice heavy
rain I can go out there and watch for patterns in the runoff.

Any suggestions are appreciated.

I think that the extra bulk of organic matter will make most of the
difference for you, with increased water absorption, food for
earthworms who will break down the soil, pockets of air, and mostly
giving the plants a few inches of soil to breath after a rain. I would
not give up free watering if I had the choice.

If I were you I would have dandelion and radicchio and cardoon in the
last few feet of garden for the first two years (these are all ready
to eat only after first frost in the fall. they will all probably
overwinter there), and have summer veggies closer to the patio. (you
probably need to plant them thickly in the first year, to break down
things as much as possible - you could consider mache as a ground
cover for cardoon). I would start at five inches and, assuming
nutrients are at the right level, just give them some mulch every
year.
Since you are in Zone 7, and the area seems to be sheltered, you could
consider one crop of overwintering fava beans for extra soil break
down, organic matter, and nitrogen fixing.
Thanks.
DiGiTAL ViNYL (no email)
Zone 6b/7, Westchester Co, NY, 1 mile off L.I.Sound
2nd year gardener