We've been valiantly trying for quite a few years to grow rhubarb. With
the exception of one plant, nothing survived. Then last year, the final
plant (four years old and I pulled some stalks for the first time) finally
died. We've still optimistically planted 7 or 8 new roots and right now
they've all stuck their heads out of the ground.

We live in Zone 7. We have followed all planting advice as to hole depth,
working in compost and/or manure, etc., etc. Are we in the wrong climate,
since the summers do get pretty hot?

Any tips would be appreciated.

Dora

--


limey at toad dot net

"limey" wrote in message
...
We've been valiantly trying for quite a few years to grow rhubarb. With
the exception of one plant, nothing survived. Then last year, the final
plant (four years old and I pulled some stalks for the first time) finally
died. We've still optimistically planted 7 or 8 new roots and right now
they've all stuck their heads out of the ground.

We live in Zone 7. We have followed all planting advice as to hole depth,
working in compost and/or manure, etc., etc. Are we in the wrong climate,
since the summers do get pretty hot?

Any tips would be appreciated.

Dora



limey at toad dot net

Did they give you a tip about planting your rhubarb in an area that receives
quite a bit of shade - at least afternoon shade? I had rhubarb growing for a
four years in the northern part of zone 7 (new designation) and killed it
when I added some purchased compost that was too "hot." (Yes, I've learned
to allow purchased compost to age a year before using.)

There is also a variety(s?) that is acclimated to Southern growing. Very
recently Madgardener: madgard(at)vic.com (use @)) posted a
recommendation about a variety that grows in the South. She's a treasure
about sharing such information.

John

"B & J" wrote in
messageexception of one plant, nothing survived. Then last year, the final
plant (four years old and I pulled some stalks for the first time) finally
died. We've still optimistically planted 7 or 8 new roots and right now
they've all stuck their heads out of the ground.



We live in Zone 7. We have followed all planting advice as to hole depth,
working in compost and/or manure, etc., etc. Are we in the wrong climate,
since the summers do get pretty hot?



Any tips would be appreciated.



...

"limey" wrote in message
...

We've been valiantly trying for quite a few years to grow rhubarb. With the
tip about planting your rhubarb in an area that receives quite a bit of
shade - at least afternoon shade? I had rhubarb growing for a four years in
the northern part of zone 7 (new designation) and killed it when I added
some purchased compost that was too "hot." (Yes, I've learned to allow
purchased compost to age a year before using.)



There is also a variety(s?) that is acclimated to Southern growing. Very
recently Madgardener: madgard(at)vic.com (use @)) posted a recommendation
about a variety that grows in the South. She's a treasure about sharing such
information.



John




Rhubarb is not a finicky plant. It can be grown ANYWHERE, although cool
seasons and freezing winters are most to it's liking. (I grew it very very
well in the sandy alkeline soil in Denver) The cold produces a delicate
pink shade on the stalks and makes them look quite appetizing.

Rhubaby is usually propagated by division of the fleshy roots known as
corms. Each piece must have a good, strong eye. In most temperate regions,
the corms are planted in early spring, but in milder regions, they can be
planted in late autumn after the foliage of the mother plants has died down.
Select a rich, well-drained, loamy soil (sand, compost, humus) well supplied
with organic matter if you can. Plant the corms about THREE OR FOUR INCHES
DEEP or so that the buds are TWO INCHES below the surface. (they're like
peonies in that aspect) Distance between them is four to five feet and
between plants within the row, two to three feet depending on the richness
of the soil and the vigor of the varieties selected.

Do not pull rhubarb from first year or crown piece settings. First year
roots should have their initial growing season to develop firm roots to put
forth more leaf and top growth. Feed plants regularly from year to year,
heaping compost or manure around the plants in the fall and incorporating it
in early spring. Remove the flower stalks as soon as they appear, for,
though they are striking and ornamental, they exhaust the plant and tend to
lessen the quality of the edible stalks. Rhubarb patches will continue to
produce for many years, though some growers prefer to divide clumps after
five or six years and replant the divisions in an enriched, loamy, sandy
soil.

For winter harvests or early spring crops, rhubarb can be forced. Select
two or three year old roots in the fall and plant them in a shallow box.
Cover them with about one inch of light soil, peat or sand, and let them
remain out of doors until several light frosts have occurred. Then, bring
these roots indoors and plant them in pots or plants and place them in a
warm, dark cellar or a hot bed.

A much simpler, though perhaps less reliable, meathod of forcing involves
simply placing a keg or bucket over the crowns where they grow in the
garden, piling fresh manure around the bucket and mulching with straw. This
provides the necessary warmth and forces the plant to seek the light by
growing taller than if left in the open. If the bucket is set over the
crowns in late February, fresh 'barb can be harvested by as early as
mid-March.

I would be inclined to think it was our hot summers, but we lived before
in
the same climate and the rhubarb flourished. We live surrounded by woods
(although we're pretty clear); the plants are on the north side of the
property but get enough sun as it changes direction during the day.

They need to be in direct sunlight. strong east, south or western is best.

Marilyn "madgardener"