Someone said to me to spray glyphosphate on a straight line below the
(cedar wood) fence we have, to kill the grass there and make a small
border. Its a pain to strim the grass, I keep ripping off parts of the
fence surface.

Tips and alternatives welcomed here. Fence is around 300' long around
the whole yard.

Thanks

Dean

"Dean" wrote in message
oups.com...
Someone said to me to spray glyphosphate on a straight line below the
(cedar wood) fence we have, to kill the grass there and make a small
border. Its a pain to strim the grass, I keep ripping off parts of the
fence surface.

Tips and alternatives welcomed here. Fence is around 300' long around
the whole yard.

Thanks

Dean


If I had a 300' cedar fence, hell, *any* 300' wood fence, I wouldn't
spoil the appearance by leaving a dead patch under it. Yes, it'll reduce the
strimming but it'll look bad. Too, weeds will germinate and thank you for
the opportunity to grow without the need to compete with the grass for the
sunlight.
Instead, try a bit of soil sterilant at the base of each post. The
resulting dead patch will harbor no plants for several months but might have
a tendency to expand as ground water moves through the soil. Don't apply it
within the root zone of any desirable plants. Prometon (spray) or Bromacil
(granular) are options.
http://www.interstateproducts.com/to...herbicides.htm
http://www.interstateproducts.com/we..._sterilent.htm

Tip: Cut around the posts (and sapling bark) with the trimmer at a
slower engine speed. A trimmer doesn't always need to be run at full speed
to be effective.

Tom

On Fri, 28 Apr 2006 21:43:38 -0700, Dean wrote:

Someone said to me to spray glyphosphate on a straight line below the
(cedar wood) fence we have, to kill the grass there and make a small
border. Its a pain to strim the grass, I keep ripping off parts of the
fence surface.

Tips and alternatives welcomed here. Fence is around 300' long around the
whole yard.

Thanks

Dean

Good day Dean. If your looking for a earth friendly way of dealing with
the grass, try weed burning.

http://resources.ywgc.com/info/weedburner.shtml

If you start burning in the early spring once a week the grass will be
gone and stay gone. There is no need to worry about setting your fence on
fire due to the amount of time it takes the weedburner to work. The grass
will die after 1 or 2 seconds of heat. If you burn every other mowing all
your edging will stay clean. During the heat of the summer, the return of
the grass/weeds will be very low.

If possible, you could place 2X6 or 2X8 boards under the fence. Then you
can mow along the board's edge and the grass will not grow up through the
fence. The boards will last 10+ years (if you use treated wood) and it's
not a horrible look for the fence. With that said though, $6.00 dollars
per ten foot board can add up quite quickly.

Next time you build a fence, see if the fence can be 4 or 5 inches off the
ground, this way you will be ablr to string trim under the fence with out
fence damage.

Good luck.....

--
http://resources.ywgc.com/info

Thanks Tim and Tom

I didn't build the fence, it was here when I moved in last year. It had
to be jack-hammered in and concrete poored apparently. Anyway, it does
(annoyingly) reach the ground all the way along, between the posts.

I do have one of those flame throwers! Maybe I'll give it a try. I
never even thought about that. One thing I do know though is that cedar
burns in 1-2 seconds!

I'll see how it goes.

Cheers,

Dean

"Dean" wrote in message
oups.com...
Someone said to me to spray glyphosphate on a straight line below the
(cedar wood) fence we have, to kill the grass there and make a small
border. Its a pain to strim the grass, I keep ripping off parts of the
fence surface.

Tips and alternatives welcomed here. Fence is around 300' long around
the whole yard.

Thanks

Dean


I applied a very thin line of RoundUp at the edge of a chain link fence at
my previous home. It was almost impossible to trim along that fence! It
looked bad for awhile after the first application because everything was
then just brown and dead-looking (which it was). However, I found that the
brown eventually disintegrated, leaving a *very* thin (if you are careful)
area of soil, and it was easy to maintain that by very occasional
reapplications of RoundUp.