Selective use of roundup. Landscape felt under the mulch would help too.

Roundup wont kill the soil, but small amounts will kill the grass and
shouldn't affect the tree.

wrote:
But wouldn't Roundup kill the soil also?

No. RoundUp works by entering the plant through the foliage, not the
soil. RoundUp starts to degrade as soon as it touches the soil. It
does not contaminate the soil or make the soil infertile.

wrote:

But wouldn't Roundup kill the soil also? I heard it can kill anything.
What do u mean by landscape felt? BTW, here are the pics of my tree
wells. The first 2 pics are the tree wells and the last pic is the
shrubs and bushes in front of my house. Thanks.

http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g1...Picture001.jpg

from my observation of the above picture you got wire
grass. a fast moving runner type of grass and a first
cousin to Bermuda grass. selective herbicides will not
touch it. so, if herbicide is going to be your choice
then a very weak mix of RoundUp® applied very carefully
is going to be the easiest fix. make several applications
once a week until you see yellowing in the undesirable grass.
wet a paper or cloth with the RoundUp® and wipe the grass for
a highly controlled application.




http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g1...Picture002.jpg
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g1...Picture003.jpg

I do the landscaping in several yards and the following is my
mama's front yard. the lawn is the result of several selective
herbicide applications at the appropriate time during the year.
each flower bed was weeded to a depth of six inches, dirt sifted
through a wire screen, leveled, planted with bedding plants,
covered with landscaping fabric and then mulched with 3 inches
of mulch. I won't be bothered by weeds in the flower beds at my
mama's house this year unless grass cut-boy allows the lawn to go
to seed and then allows side discharge mower to spray the flower
beds. his head goes on a stick at the end of the driveway if he
does. g


http://personalpages.bellsouth.net/t...scapelawn.html

I am a firm believer in, the amount of enjoyment one obtains
from their endeavor is a result of the work and effort they
put into the endeavor.




Mike Robinson wrote:
Selective use of roundup. Landscape felt under the mulch would help too.

Jim Ledford wrote:
make several applications
once a week until you see yellowing in the undesirable grass.
wet a paper or cloth with the RoundUp® and wipe the grass for
a highly controlled application.



And why waste your time with a weak solution of Roundup and several
applications? Roundup at a typical concentration of about 2-3% will
whack the grass in one application without harming the tree. It's
done routinely all the time.

wrote:

Jim Ledford wrote:
make several applications
once a week until you see yellowing in the undesirable grass.
wet a paper or cloth with the RoundUp® and wipe the grass for
a highly controlled application.


And why waste your time with a weak solution of Roundup and several
applications? Roundup at a typical concentration of about 2-3% will
whack the grass in one application without harming the tree. It's
done routinely all the time.

RoundUp® - the little circle with the R inside implies I'm
using a trade name. after Monsanto lost their patent on roundup
several other manufactures began producing and selling their
version of the product. Dow Agro-Sciences makes theirs and
calls it Glyphomax. Agri Star produced by Albaugh, Inc. makes
theirs and calls it Gly Star. these two products are sold in 2.5
gallon containers at a strength of 41% Glyphosate,
N-(phosphonomethyl)glycine.

at my local Farm supply I can purchase the 2.5 gallon container
for 48 dollars plus tax. I have to mix the product
to the proper strength in order to kill the undesirable plant while
not doing harm to the desirable plant. 3 ounces of product to a
gallon of water makes a midgrade strength solution adequate for most
applications. some more stubborn plants such as poison oak require
6 ounces of product to a gallon of water. in my soybean Farming
operation I mix and calibrate the sprayer rig to apply 32 ounces of
product with 24 gallons of water to an acre of land. results from
one over the top application can be observed on my web page http://personalpages.bellsouth.net/t...glyphomax.html

in my lawn care business care must be taken so as not to do harm
to a desirable plant and therefore I will employ the tactic of
several low strength applications so as to achieve the desired
outcome with a negative impact. I was addressing the original
poster as if they might be aware of other products available to
them as alternatives to the overpriced watered down offerings of
the local lowes - home depot type stores.



I am a firm believer in, the amount of enjoyment one obtains
from their endeavor is a result of the work and effort they
put into the endeavor.

Jim Ledford wrote:
wrote:

Jim Ledford wrote:
make several applications
once a week until you see yellowing in the undesirable grass.
wet a paper or cloth with the RoundUp® and wipe the grass for
a highly controlled application.


And why waste your time with a weak solution of Roundup and several
applications? Roundup at a typical concentration of about 2-3% will
whack the grass in one application without harming the tree. It's
done routinely all the time.

RoundUp® - the little circle with the R inside implies I'm
using a trade name. after Monsanto lost their patent on roundup
several other manufactures began producing and selling their
version of the product. Dow Agro-Sciences makes theirs and
calls it Glyphomax. Agri Star produced by Albaugh, Inc. makes
theirs and calls it Gly Star. these two products are sold in 2.5
gallon containers at a strength of 41% Glyphosate,
N-(phosphonomethyl)glycine.

at my local Farm supply I can purchase the 2.5 gallon container
for 48 dollars plus tax. I have to mix the product
to the proper strength in order to kill the undesirable plant while
not doing harm to the desirable plant. 3 ounces of product to a
gallon of water makes a midgrade strength solution adequate for most
applications. some more stubborn plants such as poison oak require
6 ounces of product to a gallon of water. in my soybean Farming
operation I mix and calibrate the sprayer rig to apply 32 ounces of
product with 24 gallons of water to an acre of land. results from
one over the top application can be observed on my web page http://personalpages.bellsouth.net/t...glyphomax.html

in my lawn care business care must be taken so as not to do harm
to a desirable plant and therefore I will employ the tactic of
several low strength applications so as to achieve the desired
outcome with a negative impact. I was addressing the original
poster as if they might be aware of other products available to
them as alternatives to the overpriced watered down offerings of
the local lowes - home depot type stores.



I am a firm believer in, the amount of enjoyment one obtains
from their endeavor is a result of the work and effort they
put into the endeavor.



So again, what's wrong with using 2 or 3% Roundup to whack weeds/grass
that's growing in mulch around a mature tree? That kills the grass
and not the tree in one application. I don't know of anyone that does
this in several applications. The spray goes on the weeds, not on the
tree. And any slight overspray on the trunk of a tree with Roundup
(Glyphosate), isn't going to harm the tree.

wrote:

Jim Ledford wrote:
wrote:

Jim Ledford wrote:
make several applications
once a week until you see yellowing in the undesirable grass.
wet a paper or cloth with the RoundUp® and wipe the grass for
a highly controlled application.


And why waste your time with a weak solution of Roundup and several
applications? Roundup at a typical concentration of about 2-3% will
whack the grass in one application without harming the tree. It's
done routinely all the time.

RoundUp® - the little circle with the R inside implies I'm
using a trade name. after Monsanto lost their patent on roundup
several other manufactures began producing and selling their
version of the product. Dow Agro-Sciences makes theirs and
calls it Glyphomax. Agri Star produced by Albaugh, Inc. makes
theirs and calls it Gly Star. these two products are sold in 2.5
gallon containers at a strength of 41% Glyphosate,
N-(phosphonomethyl)glycine.

at my local Farm supply I can purchase the 2.5 gallon container
for 48 dollars plus tax. I have to mix the product
to the proper strength in order to kill the undesirable plant while
not doing harm to the desirable plant. 3 ounces of product to a
gallon of water makes a midgrade strength solution adequate for most
applications. some more stubborn plants such as poison oak require
6 ounces of product to a gallon of water. in my soybean Farming
operation I mix and calibrate the sprayer rig to apply 32 ounces of
product with 24 gallons of water to an acre of land. results from
one over the top application can be observed on my web page
http://personalpages.bellsouth.net/t...glyphomax.html

in my lawn care business care must be taken so as not to do harm
to a desirable plant and therefore I will employ the tactic of
several low strength applications so as to achieve the desired
outcome with a negative impact. I was addressing the original
poster as if they might be aware of other products available to
them as alternatives to the overpriced watered down offerings of
the local lowes - home depot type stores.



I am a firm believer in, the amount of enjoyment one obtains
from their endeavor is a result of the work and effort they
put into the endeavor.

So again, what's wrong with using 2 or 3% Roundup to whack weeds/grass
that's growing in mulch around a mature tree? That kills the grass
and not the tree in one application. I don't know of anyone that does
this in several applications. The spray goes on the weeds, not on the
tree. And any slight overspray on the trunk of a tree with Roundup
(Glyphosate), isn't going to harm the tree.

with my lawn care business I prefer not to throw caution to the
wind. so, some things I do might take twice as long and I may
not make a lot of money as a result of the time involved but, I
do rest easy knowing short cuts and the time saving easy way are
not the things coming back to haunt me later.

not all trees have the same kind of bark. some will absorb through
their bark. why take the chance? does the tree trunk have any nicks,
cuts or healing bark scabs? those are places where that "slight over
spray on the trunk" may enter into the tree. is there any new growth
at the trunk of the tree with foliage? these are just a few of the
considerations needing thought before we do that "slight over spray on
the trunk". so why then would I want to waste time with all these
thoughts and considerations needing proper discernment before I proceed
with the task. why not just do what has proven to work and rest easy
knowing the desired outcome will be obtained?

Jim Ledford wrote:
why not just do what has proven to work and rest easy
knowing the desired outcome will be obtained?
\

Which is exactly why I just use 2% and apply per instructions around
trees. Never had a problem.

wrote:

Jim Ledford wrote:
why not just do what has proven to work and rest easy
knowing the desired outcome will be obtained?


Which is exactly why I just use 2% and apply per instructions around
trees. Never had a problem.

you got to love it when it works out like that too g