I have just uploaded a new copy of the London Orchid Societies' Orchid
Picture Reference Database.
It is available at http://los.lon.imag.net/picref.asp

The new database includes an additional 3,640 picture references from
28 new sources.
The total is now 126,551 references from 1,468 books, magazines,
catalogues and other types of printed documents.

Hope you find it useful.

I have visited that web site often. It is hard to understand some of
the verbage used. Can't decide if it is poor translation or my poor
vocabulary. To bad most photos are of Orchid flowers as about 98 per
cent of the time an orchid lives it has no blooms. So if you want to
identify a reluctant Oncidium by leaf and body you are just out of
luck. That is the case with me, my little Onc. just grows and divides
and grows but never blooms. I occasionally try some new method,
recently S/H culture, more light/ less light, cooler/ warmer,without
any result. Today I have three divisions of 4 to 6 bulbs each, each
with about 2-3 new shoots showing, but will bet they are new p-bulbs
not flower spikes. So it goes....;-))
Joe T
Baytown Texas

On 15 Mar 2006 19:13:16 -0800, "jtill" wrote:

I have visited that web site often. It is hard to understand some of
the verbage used. Can't decide if it is poor translation or my poor
vocabulary. To bad most photos are of Orchid flowers as about 98 per
cent of the time an orchid lives it has no blooms. So if you want to
identify a reluctant Oncidium by leaf and body you are just out of
luck. That is the case with me, my little Onc. just grows and divides
and grows but never blooms. I occasionally try some new method,
recently S/H culture, more light/ less light, cooler/ warmer,without
any result. Today I have three divisions of 4 to 6 bulbs each, each
with about 2-3 new shoots showing, but will bet they are new p-bulbs
not flower spikes. So it goes....;-))
Joe T
Baytown Texas

OK Joe -
Take one division and give it as much light as you can without
burning the leaves. Keep at it for 12 months. ALSO cut the
fertilizer to all of them. IF you have not been feeding at 1/2
strength, just stop for a couple of months. IF you have been feeding
at 1/2 the recommendation on your chemical, then cut that in 1/2
again. You are probably pushing too much nitrogen, that will cause
them to grow and grow and grow, bigger, better, and lush.
Onc. should be on the light or yellow side of green NOT on the lush
dark green side.
SuE
http://orchids.legolas.org/gallery/orchids

On 17 Mar 2006 10:55:20 -0800, "jtill" wrote:

SuE.
Mine are VERY green and sprouting all over so I will move one into more
light. Also cut out the feeding, I will do that. The little buggers
seem to have very little roots, has always been that way. So, I have
been trying to get more roots, moved them out of wood crate pots that
had charcoal, bark and a bit of Coconut fiber into expanded clay
pebbles in hopes of better root production. (the crates were rotting
also). Sure do thank you for the information!
Joe T
Baytown TX


You said you have Oncidiums. They will always have fine roots.
Nature of the beast. A Phal or a Catt can have roots 1/4 inch thick,
but an Onc or any of that group have roots like tomatoes - thin and
branching.
SuE
http://orchids.legolas.org/gallery/orchids